TDC Backup 02/28/2011
by Bob Payne I Published February 2011 I See more Conde Nast Traveler articles>
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. Florida Now: The Comfort of Strangers
Deep in the Everglades, BOB PAYNE finds that initiating conversations leads to good information,
remuneration-and one cranky sailing chimpanzee.
When I was 19, I lived for a while on a houseboat among mangrove islands in the empty backcountry of
Everglades National Park's Florida Bay, where the silence was broken only by fish working the shallows or
birds gossiping as they settled down on their roosts for the night.
I wasn't naturally talkative to begin with, and the experience certainly did not make me any more verbose. Yet
right after coming out of the backcountry, I went to work at the park's Flamingo Visitor Center, where it was
pointed out to me that if I wanted bigger tips I should make an effort to converse with strangers.
My informant was right, as it turned out. And while the possibility of increased remuneration has too seldom
been a deciding factor for me when choosing a course of action, I discovered that initiating a conversation with
someone you don't know often pays.
"If you're interested, I can show you where you're most likely to see alligators," I might say to a family from
Ohio to whom I was renting a skiff. Or I might ask the eight-year-old son of a fisherman I was counting out live
shrimp for, "Where can I get a hat like that?" And a onedollar bill would, on occasion, magically become two or
three.
But more than strictly a means of financial gain, speaking to strangers, I realized, often results in a look into
their lives.
Most people are happy to communicate. They want to learn something about others and share something about
themselves. At the very least, they want to communicate that, yes, they too are human. As I worked my
newfound sociability, it seemed to me that the only reason most people are afraid to initiate conversation with
strangers is their fear of how their overtures will be received. So I tried an experiment. Every afternoon, I would
walk along the dock at Flamingo, which the fishermen frequented. As someone would approach me, I would call
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out, "Good afternoon!" or just raise my eyebrows in greeting. Almost invariably, I would get at least a wave or a
smile and a nod, and sometimes a full recounting of the current weather conditions in Buffalo or Sandusky. And
I was once presented with an entire sermon, the message of which was that God created mosquitoes to offset
some of the good in the world.
Over the years, as I became a traveler and in turn a travel writer, I found that initiating greetings often sets the
stage for obtaining the snippets of lives that allow me to do my job.
On Key Biscayne, an island of palm trees and expensive homes just off Miami, it permitted me to make the
acquaintance of an elderly woman who remembered when Richard M. Nixon, then president, had a winter home
there. "When he went walking in the sand, he tried to blend in, with his Bermuda shorts and Hawaiian shirt," the
woman told me. "But the shiny black dress shoes gave him away."
And on the white-as-a-good-cowboy's-hat beaches of the Panhandle, it opened a dialogue with a strongly
accented six-year-old from New York who was bitterly disappointed because her parents had promised her there
would be "gulls" playing at the water's edge, and all she'd seen was "a bunch of old boyds."
But the proactive approach doesn't always have the hoped-for outcome, as I remember well from an incident
that occurred at Flamingo. Strolling the dock one afternoon, I noticed a houseboat I hadn't seen before. A man
and a woman-he with a white Hemingway-type beard, she with a big floppy hat-were sitting in lounge chairs
on the top deck. But what most caught my eye was the chimpanzee on the stem deck. The chimp was pulling in
one of the dock lines until the boat touched the pilings, and then shoving it out again until the lines went tight.
"I could use a crew like that on my houseboat," I said to the couple.
"Then let's talk," said the man. "Except I have to warn you, he only works for union scale."
The couple had rented the houseboat in Everglades City, near the top of the park, and were on a vacation cruise,
having come down through the Ten Thousand Islands, a mangrove wilderness of meandering waterways. Next
stop was Florida Bay, which, I had learned during the months I lived there, was a remote, isolated island world
of its own.
Since I was planning to head for the Ten Thousand Islands myself, and I had much information I could share
with the couple about Florida Bay, they invited me on board. Unfortunately, as I jumped from the dock, the
chimpanzee lunged at me and clamped onto my ankle with his teeth. By the time the man was able to pull the
incredibly powerful beast off of me, my leg was a mess and I had to go to Miami to be patched up.
I never felt any animosity toward the chimp, who was probably acting on some instinct to protect his territory,
nor toward the couple, who were distraught over the incident, which I got the impression made them finally
accept the fact that the exotic pet thing wasn't working out.
The experience did teach me, though, that while a conversation with strangers will almost always produce a
feeling of mutual humanity, there are times when it will not.
Illustration by Ben Kirchner
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Florida Now: See and Be Seen
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· Florida Now: Battle of the Beaches>
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Once the stomping ground for Girls Gone Wild types, newly hip Fort Lauderdale has become Miami's
sophisticated little sister.
The Sleep
Of the recent Fort Lauderdale hotel additions, the latest, the W Fort Lauderdale, embodies the city's fresh
essence with sexy, sleek interiors by New York designer Clodagh, a Bliss spa, and a beachy, low-key feel (954-
414-8200; doubles, $413-$589).
The Party
A full moon rising over the Atlantic Ocean is one of this beachfront town's most cinematic visions. Watch it
from the pool deck suspended over the water at the Ritz-Carlton; add a DJ and some telescopes and the result is
one of the best shows in town (954-465-2300; doubles, $439-$609).
The Hot Spot
Opened just in time for this season, the Vibe Las Olas lounge features live music, table service, and visiting
DJs-a nice nightlife alternative to the cheesy clubs favored by the spring break set (301 E. Las Olas Blvd.).
The Eat
Formerly a deli for yacht owners, the new Grateful Palate is a wine bar and restaurant with 30 vintages by the
glass-you can even order provisions for your yacht from the resto. The menu includes a superb braised basa
with South African lobster tail (817 S.E. 17th St.; 954-467-1998; entrees, $17-$32).
The Ride
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Known as America's Venice, Fort Lauderdale encompasses 165 miles of canals and more than 7 miles of beach,
so rent a yacht-and a captain-at Tropical Sailine: (954-579-8181; half-day yacht rentals, from $2,000) or take
a class with Blue Water Sailine: School-courses run from basic skills to celestial navigation (954-763-8464;
seven-day sailing classes, from $1,895).
The Sight
The Museum of Art is back on the culture map after a recent expansion, pulling in visitors with exhibits like
"Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs." Check out the work of the late pop artist Tom
Wesselmann until February 27 (954-525-5500).
The Store
Hit Shop 603 for Sunshine State essentials like J Brandjeans, super-soft C&C California T-shirts, Havaianas,
and floaty cocktail dresses (603 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-467-0900).
Photograph of a view from the pool at the W Fort Lauderdale, by Graciela Cattarossi
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Florida Now: Bal Boutique Bliss
by The Editors I Published February 20111 See more Conde Nast Traveler articles>
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Pack your plastic-the shopping options just keep getting better at Miami's Bal Harbour. Here's what's new.
Creator of the comma heel, reviver of the stiletto (some even say he invented it), Roe:er Vivier deserved some
slick FL digs, and he got them at this, his first U.S. store outside New York City. The spring collection-a
colorsaturated array of shoes and bags that whisper Italian Riviera chic-rests under a gallery-worthy lighting
display, alongside furniture from Christian Sapet's well-curated antiques collection (305-868-4344).
Brunello Cucinelli's brand of chic minimalism takes you from private jet to polo field, and the store reflects
Cucinelli's less-is-more sensibility with white linen walls and rustic furniture. Our top pick for spring: the men's
distressed-leather high tops inspired by the classic brogue (305-864-4833).
Desperately seeking a serious timepiece? Perch on Hublot's orange dupionisilk love seat and sip bubbly while
you browse the King Power and 18-karat-gold Aero Bang timepieces, both limited-edition store exclusives (305
-865-1855).
Inspiration for Van Cleef & Aroels' exotic baubles comes from Hawaii (check out the sapphire and citrine
flower motifs) and the Alhambra (mother-of-pearl and onyx inlaid necklaces). A Veronese crystal chandelier
and deGournay hand-painted wallpaper add to the international eclat of the redone boutique (305-866-0899).
Laid-back Cali has come to Flori: James Perse's first Sunshine State boutique has an appropriately beachy vibe
with palm imagery and white-oak louvered doors-the perfect backdrop for the layered tee treats. Check out
Yosemite Performance, a new line of active wear that's actually cute, and the Malibu collection of sleek poolside
furniture (305-993-1330).
Peep Frida Giannini's Marrakech-inspired spring collection at the recently relocated Gucci boutique on Bal
Harbour's second floor. You'll go wild for the turquoise silk pants and gold braided belts (305-868-6504).
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Florida Now: Best of the West
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Debra Yates-artist, hotel and landscape designer, and fourth-generation Key Wester- dishes on her favorite
spots on the island, including (surprise) the hotels she designs.
Art
"I love Key West's Luckv Street Gallerv for contemporary art and sculpture-I'll be showing my new work
there in March [1130 Duval St.; 305-294-3973]. The Harrison Gallerv is also wonderful, with jewelry, crafts,
wood carvings, and sculptures made out of palm [825 White St.; 305-294-0609]."
Eats
"Salute sits right on the sand on Higgs Beach, attracts a local winter crowd, and has really good, unpretentious
food. I order the half chicken with brussels sprouts [1000 Atlantic Blvd.; 305-292-1117; entrees, $13-$29].
Santiae:o's Bodel!:a does delicious small plates and is in a tiny house in Bahama Village-you'd never know it
was there [207 Petronia St.; 305-296-7691; small plates, $7-$12]."
Drinks
"The outdoor Terrace Bar at La Te Da has the best martinis in town, and the Crvstal Room, upstairs, hosts Key
West's greatest drag show [915 Duval St.; 305-296-0669]. The bar at La Trattoria is a locals' spot-we watch
the crowd without being in it. The restaurant has exquisite Italian food [524 Duval St.; 305-296-1075]. The hotel
La Concha was built in the 1920s and is the tallest building in Key West-you get a 360-degree view of the
city from the rooftop bar [430 Duval St.; 305-296-2991]."
Beds
"The Truman Hotel, in the Old Town, is one of the only contemporary places to stay in Key West. I designed
everything in the newer wing as well as the pool area, and my paintings hang in the rooms [305-296-6700;
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doubles, $169-$199]. The Paradise Inn has the same owner as the Truman and is next on my list to redesign top
-to-bottom. You're a block from the madness, so you can walk right into the crowd and right back out [305-293-
8007; doubles, $199-$599]."
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Photograph of the pool at the Truman Hotel, by Graciela Cattarossi
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Florida Now: Orlando Blooms
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· Florida Now: Battle of the Beaches>
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· Florida Now: The Shell Game>
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. Florida Now: Orlando Blooms
· Florida Now: Best of the West>
· Florida Now: The Comfort of Strangers>
There's so much more to Orange County than Mickey Mouse. Here's what to hit up over a long weekend.
Thursday
Check into the Hvatt Ree:encv Grand Cypress, in the Lake Buena Vista area, a stone's throw from great
shopping and dining. Its 815 recently renovated rooms are done in soft beiges and sea-foam green, and on-site
diversions include a nine-hole golf course (clubs provided), tennis courts, a rockclimbing wall, and paddleboats
on the private lake (407-239-1234; doubles, $199-$359).
Friday
Meander through the Harrv P. Leu Gardens, a tranquil 50-acre estate donated to Orlando by its namesake
owner. The grounds are dotted with Spanish oaks, and there's a formal rose garden, a citrus grove, and the
largest collection of camellias in eastern North America (1920 N. Forest Ave.; 407-246-2620).
On the southern end of Winter Park, a tony town north of Orlando, have lunch at the Ravenous Pie:, a gastropub
with exposed-brick walls and butcher paper- topped tables. Chef-owners James and Julie Petrakis offer a
seasonally changing menu-try the lobster tacos (1234 N. Orange Ave.; 407-628-2333; lunch entrees, $7-$15).
Venture into the heart of Winter Park to visit the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art, which
has the world's most comprehensive collection of works by Louis Comfort Tiffany-ofthe famously exquisite
lamps, stained glass windows, vases, and jewelry. A new wing, which will hold an art and architectural
collection from Tiffany's Long Island home, opens in late February (407-645-5311).
Walk a few blocks east to catch the last Scenic Boat Tour of the day. The 18-passenger pontoons chug through
Winter Park's chain of natural lakes and man-made canals, affording a peek at the neighborhood's grand
mansions lining the shores (407-644-4056; one-hour tour, $12).
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Winter Park's brick-lined Park Avenue is chockablock with stylish boutiques and cafes. Worth browsing are
Timothv's Gallerv, for whimsical American-made crafts ranging from candle snuffers to wind chimes (236 N.
Park Ave.; 407-629-0707); Ten Thousand Villae:es, for handcrafted fair-trade items (346 N. Park Ave.; 407-
644-8464); and Earth Insoired Livine:. with its thoughtfully curated selection of ecominded and sustainable
clothes, housewares, and crafts (300 N. Park Ave.; 407-644-2344).
In the increasingly gastronomic Pointe Orlando outdoor shopping and theater complex, the Funkv Monkev
Wine Comoanv is an outpost of downtown's scruffier, original Funky Monkey. The wine list is vast (natch),
and there's a sizable sushi menu (9101 International Dr.; 407-418-9463; entrees, $15-$35).
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Florida Now: Miami's Water Music
by Kate Maxwell I Published February 2011 \ See more Conde Nast Traveler articles>
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. Florida Now: Best of the West>
. Florida Now: The Comfort of Strangers>
Frank Gehry's New World Symphony building, his first Floridian project, paved a parking lot and put up
paradise-for music lovers.
If Frank Gehry hadn't babysat New World Symphony cofounder and artistic director Michael Tilson
Thomas in the 1950s, the organization's new campus, which has sprung up in the midst of Miami Beach's Art
Deco dazzlers, might never have materialized. "Listening to Michael playing chords back then was intense as
hell," says Gehry. "He was a genius at eight years old. It was obvious that he was going to do something
incredible." Their connection helped persuade the architect to design the new digs for the New World
Symphony, America's only orchestral academy, which were unveiled in January.
When the symphony moved into its first home, the Art Deco Lincoln Theater, in 1987,200 feral cats had to be
evicted; this time a 2.5-acre parking lot was demolished. It could easily have turned condo-the plans for the
new building were drawn up in 2002, near the height of the real estate boom. That it's now Miami's most
important cultural center is testament to the local government's commitment to the arts.
The building is quieter in appearance than Gehry's best-known works-the Disney Concert Hall, in Los
Angeles, and the Guggenheim Bilbao. "I've always thought a building should be a good neighbor," Gehry says.
"I didn't want to mimic the Art Deco surrounds-I just made it simple."
The tight budget was also a constraint. "I put the frills on the inside, which was less expensive, but you see them
through the glass." The glassy exterior is inspired by its Deco forebears, including the Delano and Sagamore
hotels on Collins Avenue, and is punctuated by a discreet plaster flourish that is unmistakably Gehry. The main
frill, a white free-floating flowerlike structure in the interior courtyard, is visible from the outside, as are patrons
milling around before concerts in the 756-seat performance space. This, Gehry hopes, will give the building an
atmosphere of accessibility. "I want people to come in the door and feel comfortable," he says.
Outside, a park planted with bougainvillea trailing on stylized trellises has become an alfresco living room for
Miami Beach, and four projectors beam art videos and concerts onto the symphony building's white wall-
meaning Gehry's latest tour de force is a cultural experience inside and out (541 Lincoln Rd.; 305-673-3330).
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Florida Now: Battle of the Beaches
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· Florida Now: Miami's Water Music >
· Florida Now: Your Own Private(ish) Islands>
· Florida Now: The Shell Game>
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. Florida Now: See and Be Seen>
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Swanky Palm Beach's neighbor West Palm Beach has developed an identity all its own in recent years. Which to
choose? We give you the scoop on both.
Palm Beach: The Sleep
The Breakers, a sprawling Italian Renaissance- style resort, is au courant thanks to a five-year renovation that
enlivens rooms with bright patterned wallpaper while adding historical prints and photos of the property (561-
655-6611; doubles, $499-$730).
West Palm Beach: The Sleep
The Palm Beach Hibiscus bed-and-breakfast has Bahamian plantation architecture and a restorative patio
garden with a fountain (866-833-8171; doubles, $140-$210), while the Hotel Biba is West Palm's chic option,
with a hip wine bar (561-832-0094; doubles, $129-$149).
Palm Beach: The Shop
Palm Beach society dames who wouldn't be caught dead in the same outfit twice drop off new and barely worn
labels at the consignment stores along Sunset Avenue, including Razamataz (208 Sunset Ave.; 561-655-2135)
and Attitudes (212 Sunset Ave.; 561- 832-1666).
West Palm Beach: The Shop
Nothing embodies this sliver of Florida quite like the radiant pastels of Lilly Pulitzer. At C. Orrico-the
CityPlace outpost of the Palm Beach store of the same name-you'll find her beachy, sunny garb in abundance,
and you'll avoid the crowds that frequent her shop across the bridge (701 S. Rosemary Ave.; 561- 832-9203).
Palm Beach: The Show
For immaculately staged cabaret performances, hit the Roval Room Supper Club in the Colony Hotel-it pulls
in Grammy- and Tony-winning performers like Jack Jones, Faith Prince, and Christine Ebersole (561-655-5430;
dinner and show, $100-$145 per person).
West Palm Beach: The Show
At Sky 309, an open-air, rooftop club set under a wooden turret, you feel as though you're dancing in a
lighthouse (309 Clematis St.). Pretty young things populate the dance floor, daybeds, and velvet couches at Off
the Hookah, where the pipes are loaded with flavors like chocolate mint, pi fia colada, and guava (314 Clematis
St.).
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Palm Beach: The Sight
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The Henrv Morrison Flal!:ler Museum, once the winter home of the oil magnate, is a 60,000-square-foot
Mediterranean-revival manse that brazenly flaunts the opulence which now defines the island (561-655-2833).
West Palm Beach: The Sight
The Norton Museum of Art houses an astounding selection of Chinese dynastic porcelain and pre-Christian
jade pendants as well as American pop art, French Impressionist works, and modernist sculpture (561-832-
5196).
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Florida Now: The Shell Game
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. Florida Now: The Shell Game from Conde Nast Traveler on Concierge.com
by Dana Dickey I Published February 2011 I See more Conde Nast Traveler articles>
More from Florida Now: The Shell Game
· Florida Now: Battle of the Beaches>
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· Florida Now: The Shell Game
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The sublime seafood (oysters, anyone?) of Florida's Forgotten Coast is, well, unforgettable. Here's where to get
shucking.
Want to stump a Floridian? Ask him where the Forgotten Coast is. He may wrinkle his brow, maybe stammer
something about the Panhandle, and finally shrug. That's too bad, since this stretch of mid-Panhandle coastline
along Apalachicola Bay produces some of the nation's choicest seafood. Visitors step back into what residents
call Old Florida, a Deep South topography oflive oaks hung with Spanish moss, rustling palmettos, and shores
thick with saw grass and weathered docks.
Old Florida is also a place of shotgun shacks and Victorian mansions. Travelers can stay in the latter at the
Gibson Inn, a tin-roof hotel where the wraparound porch is scented with night-blooming jasmine. Its three
floors of rooms have fourposter beds, claw-foot tubs, and, purportedly, ghosts (850-653-2191; doubles, $115-
$155).
Historically, 90 percent of the state's oyster haul comes from Apalach-the locals' name for the area-and more
than a thousand residents work in the trade. Of course, fishing has suffered due to last year's oil spill, although
state health officials have deemed the fish and mollusks safe to eat.
"My business is down 80 percent," says Tommy Ward, owner of 13 Mile Brand Seafood, his blue eyes scanning
Apalachicola Bay, where a motorboat was hauling in eastern oysters. But Ward brightens over lunch at the
Indian Pass Raw Bar, in Port St. Joe, explaining that the oysters' flavor comes from the Apalachicola River's
freshwater as it meets the salty St. George and St. Vincent sounds. "They'll help your love life," Ward says,
turning red beneath his trucker cap (8391 Indian Pass Rd.; 850-227-1670; entrees, $9-$11).
So what should you hit up on your oyster and seafood crawl? In downtown Apalachicola, they're served
Apalach style at That Place Off 98: baked in the shell with onion, garlic, bacon, and gooey mozzarella (17 Ave.
E; 850-653-9898; entrees, $4-$22). At Boss Ovster, pelicans do arabesques dockside while guests commandeer
a seat on the screened-in porch to slurp the bivalves prepared more than a dozen different ways, including
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. Florida Now: The Shell Game from Conde Nast Traveler on Concierge.com
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Japonaise, a Christmasy-looking chilled presentation with wasabi, ponzu, seaweed, and red and green roe (123
Water St.; 850-653-9364; entrees, $5-$19). At the Scipio Creek Marina, Paoa Joe's is home to a rollicking bar
scene, and the spicy gumbo includes shrimp, okra, and sausage (301 B Market St.; 850-653-1189; entrees, $5-
$22).
There are more than briny pleasures in the area. An hour north of Apalachicola, in Wewahitchka, you'll find rare
Tupelo honey, world-renowned for its delicate flavor. And in town, head for the Apalachicola Chocolate
Company, a loft-like emporium of handmade fudge, chocolate raisin clusters, and more-all made with
Venezuelan, French, and Belgian chocolates (15 Ave. E; 850-370-6937).
Photograph of the Gibson Inn, in Apalachicola, by Graciela Cattarossi
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Florida Now: Your Own Private(ish) Islands
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· Florida Now: Your Own Private(ish) Islands
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· Florida Now: Bal Boutique Bliss>
· Florida Now: See and Be Seen>
. Florida Now: Orlando Blooms>
. Florida Now: Best of the West>
· Florida Now: The Comfort of Strangers>
Off the Gulf Coast, stretches of wilderness remain barely developed. Ritzy decor and round-the-clock service?
Maybe not. Peace, quiet, and natural beauty? Definitely.
Best Kayaking
On Sanibel Island, overnight at the Casa Ybel Resort (239-472-3145; doubles, $295-$539), then scoff steak and
eggs at the Over Easv Cafe (630-1 Tarpon Bay Rd.; 239-472-2625; steak and eggs, $11) in preparation for a
guided kayak tour in the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge with Taroon Bav Exolorers. Ninety minutes
of paddling through mangroves yields sightings of anhingas, blue herons, ibises, egrets, and the odd mangrove
crab and manatee (239-472-8900; tour, $30).
Best Sunbathing
A sleepy vacation-home spot off Sarasota, Siesta Key is famed for its beach, which has powdersoft sand made
of ground quartz. Have a wander, then drive a few miles south to the emptier Turtle Beach. Across the street is
the Turtle Beach Resort, which has ten cottages with views of Little Sarasota Bay-best enjoyed from the hot
tubs-as well as a ten-room inn (941-349-4554; doubles, $250-$500). For dinner, snap a bayside seat next door
at Oohelia's (9105 Midnight Pass Rd.; 941-349-2212; entrees, $26-$35).
Best for Turtles
Leatherbacks, loggerheads, and green turtles choose St. George Island beaches to nest since it's reputed to be
one ofthe coast's darkest areas. To spot them, you can gingerly walk the shore from May through October,
armed with a flashlight covered by a red bandanna (turtles use the moon as navigation and might mistake a
bright light for their guide). Stay at the Buccaneer Inn, St. George's only beachfront motel (800-847-2091;
doubles, $85-$190).
Best Biking
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Just south of Tampa Bay, Anna Maria Island is seven miles of barrier isle dotted with beach bungalows. New
bike paths make exercise on this sleepy idyll easy; rent yours at Beach Bums (427 Pine Ave.; 941-778-3316;
rentals, $5 per hour). Stay in one of the upstairs rooms at the Harrine:ton House Beachfront Bed & Breakfast
Inn (941-778-5444; doubles, $209-$329), and lunch at Ginnv's and Jane E's (9807 Gulf Dr.; 941-778-3170;
entrees, $6-$9).
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Florida Now: Your Own Private(ish) Islands from Conde Nast Traveler on Concierge.com
Best for Playing Pirates
Parents weary of Florida's corporatized amusements will enjoy taking their children on a day-trip to Egmont
Key. A state wildlife preserve and uninhabited island, it has white sand beaches, the ruins of Fort Dade (which
dates back to the Spanish-American War), and a 150-year-old lighthouse. The Egmont Key Ferry leaves from
the Bay Pier at Fort De Soto Park (727-867-6569; round-trip, $20 per person).
next>
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· Florida Now: South Beach, Islands for Everyone, the Forgotten Coast from Conde Nas! T... Page 3 of 8 .1~JI
1ff-
Florida Now: South Beach, Islands for Everyone, the Forgotten Coast
by The Editors I Published February 2011 I See more Conde Nast Traveler articles>
.......- ---
More from Florida Now: South Beach, Islands for Everyone, the Forgotten Coast
· Florida Now: Battle of the Beaches>
. Florida Now: Miami's Water Music>
. Florida Now: Your Own Private(ish) Islands>
· Florida Now: The Shell Game>
. Florida Now: Bal Boutique Bliss>
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· Florida Now: Orlando Blooms>
· Florida Now: Best of the West>
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Seafood, shopping, or sailing fan? Art lover or avant-garde architecture aficionado? Scratch the surface and
you'll find that Florida's got it all, from wild nightlife to wilderness islands.
The Inn Crowd
From a steak house with rooms to the erstwhile Versace mansion, these five new South Beach inns cater to just
about every taste-literally.
For the Carnivore
If it seems strange to base your hotel choice on your predilection for meat, you haven't been to Prime One
Twelve, part of the food empire that includes Shoji Sushi, diner Big Pink, and Prime Italian. The sprawling
steak house recently added a second dining room, and bedrooms upstairs in the guise of Prime Hotel. The
execution is by no means flawless: You check in at the restaurant reception, and there's no breakfast despite the
ample kitchens-you have to walk five minutes down the road to Big Pink. But if a hefty prime cut with a side
of garlic mash-and a subsequent food coma-is in your future, the mod, monochrome rooms with balconies
and bathrooms with TVs make a good crash pad. There's a lap pool and cabanas on the attractive roof deck,
which has views of the SoFi (South of Fifth) neighborhood's condo high-rises. Beware: Prime One Twelve is a
meat market in more ways than one. It's so popular, we waited over an hour for the table we'd reserved-
although the oak-smoked bacon rasher bar snacks helped.
(100 Ocean Dr.; 305-532-0553; doubles, $325-$425; entrees, $25-$88).
For the Scene Stealer
The man who reinvented the members' club in London and New York opened his first full-service hotel, the
Soho Beach House, on mid-beach last fall. Nick Jones's retro Latino glam rework of the Sovereign Hotel gets
everything right, from the beach service (wide loungers, watering cans to rinse sandy feet) and the two pools
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1
with their jaunty blue-and-white towels, to the comfortable beds (downstairs) and cabanas (on the eighth floor).
We also loved the food-including grouper seviche poolside, and the creamy burrata and pitch-perfect steak
under a fairy-lit arbor at Cecconi restaurant. The Cow shed spa is a rustic wooden wonderland on the second and
third floors, and you'll also find Cow shed products in your capacious shower. Call us snobs, but we like the
exclusive, if-you're-not-a-member-or-hotel-guest-you're- not-coming-in aspect of the Beach House. It amps up
the friendliness factor, meaning that you'll always be able to get a mojito at the beachside Tiki Bar-and you're
unlikely to be wearing it by the end of the evening.
(4385 Collins Ave.; 786-507-7900; doubles, $565-$1,095).
For the Fashionista
Want to sleep in what is reputedly America's second-most photographed house? Check into the Villa bv Barton
G., a.k.a. the Versace Mansion, home of Gianni from 1992 until his death here in 1997. It's now under the
auspices of Miami event planner and restaurant owner Barton G., who spent more than $1 million on its
restoration. Behind the heavy iron gates, the Italianate palazzo is every bit as over-the- top as you'd expect from
the design house that gave us J-Lo's jungle Grammy dress, with acres of mosaics, frescoes, and Versace-fabric
curtains (yours for $5,000 a yard). Each guest is assigned a U.K.-trained butler; a pre-check-in questionnaire
determines minibar and floral arrangement preferences. Rooms include sister Donatella's feminine Venus Suite,
with a rose briar-painted ceiling, a double king bed (a mere 106 inches wide), bespoke Frette sheets, a balcony
with ocean views, a Sonos audio system, and cashmere and mink throws (for those chilly winter evenings?). The
diminutive, ornate dining room serves foie gras terrine and Dover sole, and there's a different turndown treat
each night, from truffle popcorn to a decorate-your-own cupcake. At these prices, we should think so.
(1116 Ocean Dr.; 305-576-8003; doubles, $795-$5,000).
For the Asiaphile
There's something about South Beach's blissed-out vibe that is complemented by a sprinkling of Southeast Asia,
as the Setai hotel owners found when they opened on the beach in 2005. Next up: Dream Hotel, which has
properties in Bangkok, Cochin, and Midtown Manhattan, with another coming soon to downtown N.Y.C. Lotus
motifs, soporific mood lighting (an energy-saving feature shuts it off if you're out of your room for more than 15
minutes), a Geoffrey Zakarian restaurant, and a turquoise-and-gold color scheme are the hallmarks of the brand-
new SoBe property (scheduled to open in January, at press time). It occupies two Art Deco buildings, the Tudor
Hotel and Palmer House, linked by a bridge. Rooms have leather couches, Skype phones, and 37-inch TVs;
bathrooms have Corian basins, copper- penny floors, and Etro products. Open until 5 a.m., the rooftop lounge-
with its stainless steel pool, dance floor, and VIP area-may well be the next late-night go to.
(1111 Collins Ave.; 888-376- 7623; doubles, $199-$459).
Photograph a room at the Soho Beach House, on Miami Beach, by Graciela Cattarossi
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