Backup Documents 06/14-15/2011 Item #10B
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Agenda Item #: I 0 ~ Meeting Date : ~
Presented by: Srf\FF P~G'5' l::3vVTtd'fL
A F TGYL y1.1 tt C- . ftirrL t-H::~~t-
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A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY lANDSCAPING™ PUBLICATION
WHAT ARE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPES? ~
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Florida-Friendly Landscapes protect Florida's unique natural resources by conserving water, reducing waste a~d pDllution,
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creating wildlife habitat, and preventing erosion. Any landscape can be Florida-Friendly if it is designed and -cared for
according to the nine Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ principles, which encourage individual expression of landscape
beauty. In 2009, the Florida Legislature found that the use of Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ and other water use and
pollution prevention measures to conserve or protect the state's water resources serves a compelling public interest and
that the participation of homeowners' associations and local governments is essential to the state's efforts in water conser-
vation and water quality protection and restoration. Make your landscape a Florida-Friendly Landscape - do your part to
create a more sustainable Florida!
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SERVICES
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Florida Yards & Neighborhoods is brought to Floridians by the University of Florida/IFAS Extension Service and the Florida
Department of Environmental Protection, in cooperation with the five Water Management Districts. UF/IFAS Extension
offers the public the following services in every county in the state at either no charge or for a minimal fee:
· Workshops and classes
· Plant and landscape advice based on current University of Florida research
· Official yard recognition program
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The program also offers online resources, including numerous publications, a tutorial for custom landscape design, and a
plant database.
Phone: (352) 273-4518
Web site: http://fyn,ifas.uf1.edu
Please visit our Web site to find your county Extension office.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS : J
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Copyright 2010, University of Florida. ~
This publication was funded in part by FDEP with a Section 319 Nonpoint Source Management Program Grant from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.
DISCLAIMER: The mention of a specific product or company is for information purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement of that product or compan~
Adrian Hunsberger David Sandrock Gary Knox Kim Gabel Stephen Brown
Alison Fox Dean Rusk Georgia Gelmis Larry Williams Sydney Park Brown
Angela Maraj Doug Caldwell Glenn Acomb Marguerite Beckford Sylvia Durrell
Barbra Larson Ed Gilman Heather Ritchie Mary Duryea Teresa Watkins
Bart Schutzman Eileen Tramontana Jane Morse Michael Scheinkman Terril Nell
Brian Niemann Emily Eubanks Jessica Sullivan Michael Thomas Terry DelValle
Chris Dewey Erick Smith Jim Moll Patty Connolly Tom MacCubbin
Claudia Larsen Erin Alvarez Joan Dusky Rick Schoellhorn Tom Wichman
Crysta Gantz Esen Momol Jyotsna Sharma Sandy Wilson Wendy Wilber
Dan Culbert Gail Hansen Kathy Malone Sarah Graddy
Thanks to the following individuals for helping to produce this document:
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Table of Contents
INTROPU010N:
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What Is a Flo:ida~Friendly Landscape? ............................2
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The Florida-Friendly LandscapingH1 Program ................2
Landscape Design & Plant Selection ................................2
How to Use this Book ......................................................2
THE NINE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY
LANDSCAPINGTM PRINCIPLES
#1: Right Plant, Right Place ..............................................3
#2: Water Efficiently ........................................................3
#3: Fertilize Appropriately ................................................3
#4: Mulch..........................................................................3
#5: Attract Wildlife............................................................3
#6: Manage Yard Pests Responsibly ..................................3
#7: Recycle.................................................................... ....3
#8: Prevent Stormwater Runoff ........................................4
#9: Protect the Waterfront ................................................4
DESIGNING YOUR
FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE
Introduction..................................................................... .5
What if I Live in a Planned Community? ........................5
Design Scenarios:
Scenario A: Front Entry..............................................6
Scenario B: Along Walls ............................................8
Scenario C: Along Sidewalks ..................................10
Scenario D: Under Windows ....................................12
Scenario E: Along Fences.......................................... 14
Scenario F: Under Trees............................................16
Scenario G: Utilities ..................................................18
Scenario H: Standing Water ......................................20
CONVERTING YOUR YARD
TO A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE
Overview of the Step-by-Step Process ............................21
The Florida-Friendly Master Plan ..................................21
The Seven Steps ..............................................................21
ECOLOGICAL CONSIDERATIONS
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Form Follows Function ..................................................23
Plant Matchmaking .................................. ......................23
Wet versus Dry ................................................................23
Wind-Wise Plantings ................................ ..... .................23
Made in the Shade ..........................................................23
The Lowdown on Turfgrass ............................................23
Natives versus Non-Natives ............................................23
Soil Conditions................................................................23
Plant Selection............................................................... .23
Plant Sorting................................................................... .24
Choosing a Landscape Maintenance Service ..................24
LANDSCAPE PLANNING WORKSHEET ....................25
FIVE COMMON GARDENING MISTAKES ................28
FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPINGTM
PLANT LIST
Introduction.................................................................. ..29
Key to Symbols and Abbreviations ................................31
Large Trees......................................................................32
Medium Trees"............................................................... .38
Small Trees...................................................................... 4 2
Large Shrubs................................................................... .50
Small Shrubs................................................................... .64
Vines............................................................................. ...67
Groundcovers.................................................................. 70
Grasses ................... ........................... ........................... ... 74
Palms & Palm-Like Plants ..............................................76
Ferns............................................................................... .81
Perennials ....................................................................... .83
Annuals .......................................................................... 95
Turfgrass ......................................................................... .99
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
References..................................................................... .100
Photo Credits................................................................l 00
A Florido-Friendly Londscoping™ publicotion .
Introduction ii
ii
WHAT IS A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE?
A Florida-Friendly Landscape is a quality landscape that is
designed, installed, and maintained according to the nine
Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ principles. The nine prin-
ciples seek to reduce environmental impact from landscap-
ing by properly applying water, fertilizer, and pesticides,
creating wildlife habitat, preventing erosion, recycling
yard waste, and employing other practices based on
University of Florida research.
Not all Florida-Friendly Landscapes look alike. A wide
variety of forms, styles, and types are available to the
designer. Florida-Friendly Landscapes may incorporate
both native and non-native plants. One Florida-Friendly
yard may use a rain garden to filter stormwater runoff,
while another may attract pollinators with specific nectar
plants. But if cared for according to the nine principles, a
Florida-Friendly Landscape can produce aesthetically
pleasing, low-maintenance results that may add value to
your property while helping to protect the state's natural
resources.
THE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY
LANDSCAPINGTM PROGRAM
Preserving and protecting Florida's water resources is the
focus of the Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ (FFL)
Program, which promotes the nine principles with public
outreach and education statewide. The FFL Program is a
joint venture of the Florida Department of Environmental
Protection (FDEP) and the University of Florida Institute
of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS). The FFL
Program works in cooperation with the state's five water
management districts and other agencies and organiza-
tions to achieve the common goals of water conservation
and water quality protection.
. FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
LANDSCAPE DESIGN & PLANT SELECTI! 0 B
So, how do plant selection and landscape design con-
tribute to saving water and preventing pollution? The first
Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ principle-"Right Plant,
Right Place"-involves designing a landscape efficiently
and choosing plants that fit the site. This helps reduce
maintenance inputs, including irrigation, fertilization,
mowing, and application of pesticides, which in turn low-
ers the risk of pollutants finding their way into ground or
surface waters. Keeping excess nitrogen and phosphorous
out of the water improves the health of water bodies and
by extension the whole ecosystem. This guide will help
you to create a landscape that works with the natural
environment, rather than against it. Such a landscape, if
maintained correctly, will require less money, time, and
effort on your part, while still looking healthy and beauti-
ful.
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HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
The Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Guide to Plant
Selection and Landscape Design is intended as a compan-
ion to The Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbooh
(4th ed., 2009). The Handbook is available through
your county Extension office or online at
http://fyn.ifas.uO.edu/. The Handbook describes in detail
the nine Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ (FFL) principles
that are the bedrock of the FFL Program. This guide is
intended for homeowners who want to take the next step
and design their own Florida-Friendly Landscapes.
Included in this book is information on landscape design
strategies, a landscape planning worksheet, and the FFL
Plant List containing many of the UF/IFAS-recommended
Florida-Friendly plants for each region of the state.
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The nine Florida-Friendly LandscapingD1 principles are
the cornerstone of the Florida-Friendly Landscaping™
Program. Based on UF/IFAS science, the principles teach
homeowners, builders and developers, landscape mainte-
nance professionals, and other Florida citizens how to
implement environmentally sound design and maintenance
techniques in their landscapes. The principles are outlined
briefly here. For more detailed information, please refer to
the FFL state office Web site (http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu) or to
The Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook.
PRINCIPLE #1: RIGHT PLANT, RIGHT PLACE
Plants well-suited to their site need less irrigation and fertilizer
and are more resistant to pest infestation. Florida-Friendly
Landscaping ™ principles encourage the selection of the right
plant for the right place, helping you create a healthy, attrac-
tive landscape that works with the natural ecosystem rather
than against it. Match plants with site conditions based on
USDA zone, water and light requirements, soil conditions, salt
and wind, tolerance, and other factors. The FFL plant List can
help you make the right plant selections for your landscape.
PRINCIPLE #2: WATER EFFICIENTLY
Overwatering not only depletes water supplies, it raises
your water bill and makes landscapes more prone to pest
infestation. If needed, irrigate plants according to
UF /IFAS-recommended rates and application schedules,
taking into account local restrictions issued by your water
management district. Water only when plants show signs
of wilt, preferably in the early morning. Check your irriga-
tion system regularly for leaks and clogs. Do not water if it
has rained in the past 24 hours, or if rain is forecast in the
next 24 hours. By law you must install, maintain, and
operate a device such as a rain sensor that prevents oper-
ation of your automatic irrigation system during periods of
sufficient moisture,
PRINCIPLE #3: FERTILIZE APPROPRIATELY
If fertilization is needed, use UF /IFAS-recommended rates
and application schedules to get a healthier lawn and gar-
den. Fertilizing at the correct times and in the correct
amounts not only supplies plants with the nutrients they need,
it helps prevent fertilizer runoff and leaching that can get
into our water supplies and interfere with ecosystem and
human health. Fertilizing at the rates recommended by UF
scientists helps avoid the excessive growth, pest problems,
and higher water requirements that over-fertilization causes.
PRINCIPLE #4: MULCH
Florida-Friendly Landscaping ™ methods recommend
using mulch to protect against soil erosion, maintain soil
moisture, inhibit weed growth, improve soil structure
and aeration, and reduce pesticide use. A Florida-
Friendly Landscape will feature one of the types of
mulch recommended in The Florida Yards &
Neighborhoods Handbook in its planting beds.
PRINCIPLE #5: ATTRACT WILDLIFE
Florida-Friendly Landscaping ™ encourages Floridians to
make their yards attractive to birds, bees, bats, and other
creatures displaced by rapid urban development. Supply
berry bushes, a bird bath, or a bat house; increase verti-
callayering to provide habitat; manage household pets
and reduce insecticide use-all these tricks can welcome
wild visitors in need of refuge. Many of these will return
the favor by eating pest insects and helping to pollinate
your garden!
PRINCIPLE #6: MANAGE YARD PESTS RESPONSIBLY
The Florida-Friendly Landscaping ™ Program advocates a
more holistic approach to pest control than merely spray-
ing chemicals. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) creates
an effective defense against yard pests while minimizing
environmental impact. IPM emphasizes smart planning,
proper maintenance, and natural or low-toxicity controls
to ensure that plants stay healthy and resist disease and
insect infestation. Chemical treatments may still be neces-
sary in some cases, but use of toxic materials will be
minimized by this approach.
PRINCIPLE #7: RECYCLE
A Florida-Friendly Landscape recycles yard waste
generated by activities like mowing, pruning, and raking.
Use these leftovers as mulch or compost, returniJ~g valu-
able nutrients to your landscape. Save money and enrich
your soil by composting grass clippings, weeds, and plant
trimmings and using the compost as an amendment.
A Florido-Friendly Londscoping™ Publicotion .
PRINCIPLE #8: MANAGE STORMWATER RUNOFF
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A Florida-Friendly Landscape uses porous pavers, rain
barrels or cisterns, rain gardens, and swales and berms to
keep rainwater on site and allow it to percolate into the
'. ground or be captured for later use. Reducing the amount
J, ,of runoff and the chance for rainwater to wash quickly
'~~I\rto storm drains-carrying yard clippings, fertilizer, pesti-
cide, dirt, oil, and other toxins-is the goal of managing
stormwater runoff.
PRINCIPLE #9: PROTECT THE WATERFRONT
Implementing Florida-Friendly Landscaping ™ design and
maintenance methods helps protect water bodies from pol-
lution. If you live on a lake, bay, river, or other water
body, keep fertilizers, pesticides, and other toxins away
from the water by preserving a lo-foot maintenance-free
zone between your landscape and the water. Do not mow,
fertilize, or apply pesticides in that area. Even if you do
not live immediately on the waterfront, the pesticides and
fertilizers you apply in your landscape affect the health of
local water bodies through a drainage system called the
watershed. The choices you make at home have much far-
ther-reaching consequences than you might imagine.
. flORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'. GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
L_ I Designing' Your Florida-Friendly landscape
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Florida-Friendly Landscapes are all based on the same
nine principles. But Florida-Friendly Landscaping™
encourages individual expression of beauty. As long as
you apply the principles described in The Florida Yards &
Neighborhoods Halldbooh, your landscape can be Florida-
Friendly and as individual as you want.
WHAT IF I LIVE IN A PLANNED COMMUNITY?
Check with your homeowner association before you make
changes to your landscape. HOAs, usually have a land-
scape review board and can regulate the appearance and
types of plantings in your yard, as long as they do not
prohibit you from installing and maintaining Florida-
Friendly Landscapes.
If you live in a community with codes, covenants and
restrictions that could be more Florida-Friendly, encour-
age your association to adopt all or part of the model
Florida-Friendly LandscapingH1 restrictions, found at
http://fyn. ifas. ufl.edul.
The Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Program has a num-
ber of "success stories" which highlight water and costs
savings for communities that adopt Florida-Friendly
Landscaping™ and maintenance practices. Visit the Web
site at http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edul.
DESIGN SCENARIOS
The following eight design scenarios represent select
areas of your home landscape-front entry, under win-
dows, utility boxes, ete. Each of these scenarios was cho-
sen because of common landscape design issues that con-
front a homeowner in these areas.
In each scenario, you will be shown a challenging land-
scape situation and learn what could be done to design a
solution in a more Florida-Friendly manner. Be aware
that the graphics show the improved landscapes at an
early stage after plant installation. The plants will grow
and eventually fill in more of the mulched area.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication.
I-I
. FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
SCENARIO A: FRONT ENTRY
Two design options (With trees, Without trees)
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Driveway
Turf
Sidewalk
Existing Landscape
CHALLENGES:
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· Not enough plant material in beds
· Plants are not in scale with front of house
GOAL:
To create a visually welcoming front entry
through the use of color, texture, or fra-
grance. Be sure to choose plants that are in
scale with the size of your lot and house.
Plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Low-growing, compact plants
· Colorful
· Medium or coarse texture
· Bold forms
· Simple growth habit
Design Solutions:
· place low/small plants next to the walk-
way to reduce trimming needs
· place interesting plants at natural view
points
· Use small trees to provide a sense of
scale and visual interest
· Use colorful or fragrant plants to engage
the senses
· Use curved planting beds to draw the
viewer's eye through the landscape
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SOLUTION 1
With Trees
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Turf
Colorful plonts
Sidewalk
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SOLUTION 2
Without Trees
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Interesting plants at
natural view points
Sidewalk
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication.
'- '
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SCENARIO B: ALONG WALLS
Two design options (With trees, Without trees)
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House
Turf
Fence
Existing Landscape
. FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'. GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
CHALLENGES:
· Blank wall is not visually pleasing
· Bare walls act as a heat sink during the
summer
GOAL:
To break the monotony of blank walls through
the use of properly sized foundation plant-
ings. Small trees can be used to provide cool-
ing benefits as well.
Plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Low- or medium-height shrubs
· Soft/fine texture
· Loose foliage
· Flexible branches
Design Solutions:
· place root ball at least 3' from wall to
allow for air flow and maintenance access
· Choose plants with a tidy growth habit
and be aware of their mature size to
reduce trimming needs
· Choose plants that are color-compatible
with the wall
· Consider planting small trees to provide
shade and cooling benefits
· Use slightly taller plants between windows
to break the monotony of a uniform hedge
· Use shrubs with soft/fine texture and flexi-
ble branches for easy pruning and to
reduce injury when accessing the wall for
maintenance
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SOLUTION 1
With Trees
10,-,
SOLUTION 2
Without Trees
House
Medium height shrubs
Turf
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication .
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SCENARIO C: ALONG SIDEWALKS
Two design options (Turf buffer, Raised edging)
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Fence
House
Sidewalk
Turf
Existing Landscape
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
CHALLENGE:
· Turf is in poor condition
GOAL:
To reduce trimming and maintenance needs
adjacent to the sidewalk. A 4' turf strip or
raised edging can be used to keep mulch
from washing onto the sidewalk.
plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Low growing
· Compact growth habit
· Does not attract biting or stinging insects
Design Solutions:
· Reduce trimming and edging needs by
placing plants with clean, compact growth
habits closest to walkways or by using a
turf strip of at least 4' adjacent to the
sidewalk
· If a turf strip is not used, consider a
raised edging to keep mulch off sidewalks
· Avoid plants that attract biting or stinging
insects
· Use plants with interesting textures and
colors for close viewing
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SOLUTION 1
Turf Buffer Strip
TU~
House
4' Turf strip
Sidewalk
SOLUTION 2
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Raised Edging
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House
Compact
groundcover
Sidewalk
Raised
edging
, A Florida-Friendly Landscaping'. Publication .
SCENARIO D: UNDER WINDOWS
Two design options (No screening, Light screening)
10 B
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House
"~
Sidewalk
Existing Landscape
. FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
CHALLENGES:
· Dense plant blocks rear window
· No plant material around front window
GOAL:
To frame windows with plant material to add
visual interest and curb appeal. Alternately,
plant material can be used to provide light
screening of windows to prevent passersby
from seeing in through the windows.
plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Medium height
· No thorns or stiff leaves
· Loose foliage
· Flexible branches
Design Solutions:
· Avoid blocking views by choosing plants
with medium height and compact growth
habits
· Choose shrubs with a tidy growth habit
and allow enough room to access win-
dows for cleaning and hanging storm
shutters
· Avoid stiff, thorny plants that would pre-
vent exiting from windows in an emer-
gency situation
· Be aware of the mature size of plants and
choose appropriately
· Use small trees with low canopies if shade
or screening is desired
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SOLUTION 1
No Screening
Medium height shrub
low shrubs
Turf
House
~-$ 'I. '/I fth.
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Sidewalk
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SOLUTION 2
light Screening
Open shrub
Turf
House
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Sidewalk
A Florido-Friendly londscoping™ Publicotion .
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SCENARIO E: ALONG FENCES
Three design options (Vines, Partial screening, Full screening)
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Turf
Existing Landscape
II FLORIDA.FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN. 2010
CHALLENGES:
· Bare fence is not visually pleasing
· View from yard needs screening (ex:
neighbor's unsightly yard, road, etc.)
GOAL:
To turn an unsightly view into a visually
pleasing one through the use of colorful vines
and evergreen plants. Be sure to choose
appropriately sized plants for your design
intent.
Plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Dense foliage
· Upright form
· Evergreen
· Fast growing
· Vining
Design Solutions:
· Choose hardy vines with colorful blooms
or pleasant fragrance to hide the fence
· Choose fast-growing plants with dense
growth habits for screening and privacy
· Select evergreen plants for year-round
privacy and color
· Use plants with appropriate height to
block unwanted views
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SOLUTION 1
With Vines
'~'~'!'i "
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SOLUTION 2
With Partial Screening
SOLUTION 3
With Full Screening
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J,' !)
~"1":
,;"4
""'",-'d'
'l!'.iI: ~f
Turf
Evergreen tree
Fence
Everg reen tree
Turf
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication .
SCENARIO F: UNDER TREES
Two design options (Open canopy, Dense shade)
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House
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+0
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+0
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o
o
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o
o
o~~
80'
Turf
Sidewalk
Existing Landscape
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
CHALLENGES:
· Turf is in poor condition
· plants are too close to trunk
· Mulch area is too small
GOAL:
To create a plant bed that will thrive in shady
conditions where turfgrass will not. Allowing
an area to be self-mulched by falling leaves
is an excellent low-maintenance solution.
Plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Shade tolerant
· Shallow roots
· Groundcover with spreading growth habit
Design Solutions:
· Use plants that look good alongside fallen
leaves
· Install small plants to avoid root damage
to the tree
· In dense shade where plant options are
limited, consider allowing fallen leaves to
create a self-mulching bed
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SOLUTION 1
Open Canopy
House
low shrubs
Turf
Sidewalk
SOLUTION 2
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Dense Shade
House
Sidewalk
A Florido-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
~!
SCENARIO G: UTILITIES
Two design options (Full blend, Partial blend)
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Util;~ 60,\
Turf
Sidewalk
Existing Landscape
. flORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'. GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
CHALLENGES:
,
· Utility box is not visually pleasing
GOAL:
To create a plant bed around an unsightly
utility to make it blend into the landscape. Be
sure to allow room to access the utility when
the need arises.
plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Low/medium shrubs
· Simple growth habit
· Soft foliage
· No flowers/bees
· No thorns
Design Solutions:
· Consult with your local utility company
for planting regulations around utilities
· Use plants with soft foliage so the
branches can be bent back to allow for
access
· Don't try to hide the utility but rather try
to make it blend in with the plant bed
· Consider the mail carrier and meter
reader when selecting plants, avoid
plants that attract stinging insects and
plants with thorns
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. SOLUTION 1 SOLUTION 2 108
. Full Blend Partial Blend
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Sidewalk Sidewalk
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. A Florido-Friendly Londscoping™ Publication III
. ,
:-1
SCENARIO H: STANDING WATER
One design option (Rain garden)
GSJ
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Existing Landscape
SOLUTION 1
Rain Garden
Water -----7
flow
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
lOti
CHALLENGES:
· Water is slow to drain and collects in low areas
· Compacted ~oi)
~"
GOAL:
To turn low wet areas into rain gardens that will
collect and filter rain water. Rain gardens can be
attractive features in dry times as well if appro-
priate plant and material selections are made.
plant Characteristics to Look For:
· Ability to survive prolonged wet conditions
· Also able to tolerate dry conditions (when
water is absent)
Design Solutions:
· Consider having the low area(s) excavated
by a professional and use the excess soil to
create berms around the rain garden
· Use plants that will survive wet (or dry) con-
ditions for long periods of time
· Line the bottom of the rain garden with
rocks and boulders to provide visual interest
during dry periods
\
Water flow
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A Florida-Friendly Landscape is ecologically sound and
cost effective. If you get the chance to design a landscape
from scratch, you can go Florida-Friendly all at once. But
sometimes it is not practical for a homeowner with an
established landscape to make the changeover to a
Florida-Friendly design immediately. Converting an estab-
lished yard to a Florida-Friendly Landscape can be done
most effectively in about three years and seven steps.
OVERVIEW OF THE STEP-BY-STEP PROCESS
First, develop a master plan on paper. Second, install any
patios, walkways, or decks (hardscapes). Heavy equipment
and materials used in the construction of hardscapes should
be used before planting to avoid crushing the plants. Third,
prepare areas to plant trees. Trees should be planted before
other plants because they require more time to reach a size
that will provide shade and mulch (leaf litter). The final
steps in the conversion involve working in small sections
and installing plant beds and mulch in phases.
THE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY MASTER PLAN
Whether you are designing a landscape from scratch or
converting to a Florida-Friendly Landscape, create a
Florida-Friendly Master Landscape Plan. This is a com-
plete plan for your yard that includes all elements in pre-
cise locations and takes into account the nine Florida-
Friendly Landscaping ™ principles.
To create the master plan, you may find it helpful to use
the Landscape Planning Worksheet provided in this guide
or a similar form. Conduct a site inventory and analysis
to determine the opportunities and constraints of your
yard. Pay attention to soil type, existing vegetation, shade
patterns, drainage patterns, views, and utility locations.
Homeowners should also consider their needs and wants.
Draw the master plan to scale, including property bound-
aries from a certified survey, the location of the house and
any existing hardscape, and the location of any trees or
plants to remain on site. Complete the master plan by
adding all proposed plants, hardscapes, and specified con-
struction materials. If applicable, check with your HOA
before beginning the design process, and be sure to
obtain final approval from the responsible committee.
Use the nine FFL principles, design elements, and funda-
mentals of design described in this guide to create outdoor
"rooms" by using pathways, hardscapes, and plants to
divide and organize spaces. Also consider the following:
· Proportion: Keep the size of the plants proportional to
the house and yard.
· Variety: Make the yard interesting by having variation in
plant sizes (especially heights), color, texture, and shape.
!1"1:1"
~..
li
· Composition: Group and arrange plants in overlapping
masses based on the size, form, color, and growing
requirements.
. Emphasis: Use dramatically different plants as focal
points to attract attention.
THE SEVEN STEPS
The seven-steps described below illustrate the phased
process of converting a landscape, including the addition
of new hardscape, trees, and Florida-Friendly plant mate-
rial to a typical development landscape. If all steps are
followed, the final product will be a Florida-Friendly
Landscape created over a three-year period.
STEP 1: DEVELOP A MASTER PLAN
Include some of the following elements in your Florida-
Friendly Master Landscape Plan:
· Turf areas, plant beds, and mulch areas
· Entertainment and circulation areas such as pathways,
decks, and patios
· Trees and shrubs (placed for energy efficiency and as
screens/buffers for views)
· Plantings to screen A/C units & utilities
· Concealed work/trash area
· Wildlife habitat plantings
· Garden shed/compost bin
. Cisterns/rain barrels (located by downspouts)
. Rainwater collection areas (low spots or rain gardens)
STEP 2: INSTALL HARDSCAPES
(PATIOS, WALKWAYS, DECKS, POOLS, ETC.)
· Call before you dig. State law requires that you call
the free Utility Locator Service at 811 at least
two full business days before you dig.
http://www.callsunshine.com/
· Install all new hardscapes at the same time to save
money by not destroying plants later.
· Use porous pavers, concrete or gravel, to allow
stormwater drainage.
· Use durable materials and, whenever possible, use
reclaimed, reprocessed, or recycled-content materials
(EDlS pub 1110/EP374).
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping1M Publication .
· Minimize the movement of trucks and equipment in
the yard to avoid soil compaction.
· If using underground irrigation, install the system
before installing plants.
STEP 3: CREATE NEW TREE BEDS
· Mark the edge of the new tree bed with a rope.
· Remove sod or other plant material and till to aerate
soil in tree bed area.
· Put down a 2-3"-thick layer of Florida-Friendly mulch
to protect the soil.
STEP 4: INSTALL TREES
· Choose healthy trees appropriate for your climate and
conditions (wind, moisture, soil, etc.), and use proper
installation techniques (EDIS pub ENH856/EP1l2).
· Wind proof by grouping trees together and locate to
provide selective shade.
· Call to locate underground utility lines before digging.
· Install any new trees located near proposed hardscape
after the hardscape is installed (Step 2).
STEP 5: PREPARE (PHASE I) PLANT BEDS
· Consult the master plan to decide where to install the
first planted area. Your choice will be determined by
your needs.
· Remember to leave clear access to the backyard if you
do the front yard first.
· Use boundaries such as walkways, fences, or house cor-
ners to determine the extent of the planted area.
STEP 6: INSTALL (PHASE I) PLANT BEDS
· Relocate existing plants as indicated on the master plan
and space relocated and new plants accordingly.
· Use proper installation practices for planting (EDIS pub
ENH856/EP1l2).
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
· If you are not installing the plants, hire landscape con-
tractors certified in Florida-Friendly Green Industry
Best Management Practices (GI-BMPs).
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· Mulch newly installed plants to control weeds and
reduce runoff (EDIS pub ENHI03/MG25l).
· Follow a UF/IFAS-recommended irrigation schedule
until plants are established (EDIS pub ENH857/EP1l3)
and then reduce irrigation as needed.
STEP 7: REPEAT STEPS 5 & 6
FOR ADDITIONAL PHASES OF PLANT BEDS
· Additional phases of Plant Beds are determined by your
needs. For Phase II , you may choose to plant the area
that is contiguous to the Phase I plants, or you may
decide to plant another area of the garden that is used
often or for a different purpose.
· Follow the procedures used in Phase I to prepare beds
and install the Phase II plants. If a temporary irrigation
system was used in Phase I, the system can be relocated
to use in Phase II.
. Remember the plants in Phase II will initially be small-
er than the plants in Phase I, but they will quickly
catch up and fill in the space.
· You may want to choose less visible areas for the last
phase(s) .
· Again, follow the procedure used in previous phases
I and II to prepare and install additional beds.
. Remember the plants in later phases will be smaller
than the plants in the earlier phases, but they will also
quickly catch up.
· Maintain the yard with Florida-Friendly Landscaping™
principles described in The Florida Yards & Neighborhoods
Handboo/? and in this publication. If you are not main-
taining the landscape, hire a landscape contractor who is
certified in the GI-BMPs.
· Ecological Considerations
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Florida-Friendly Landscape design combines art and sci-
ence to create functional, attractive, and ecologically
sound surroundings that complement a home or other
structure. But Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ guidelines
need not restrict your choices of color, texture, and style.
Here are some tips to bear in mind when planning your
landscape.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
Landscape designers often recommend grouping plants
into masses to unify the design of plant beds. Groups of
plants are visually pleasing, and this technique also pro-
vides environmental benefits. Trees planted in groups pro-
vide more atmospheric cooling than the same number of
evenly spaced, isolated trees and are much better protect-
ed in high winds. In addition, trees planted in combina-
tion with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers form effec-
tive windbreaks and wildlife habitat.
PLANT MATCHMAKING
Turfgrasses and landscape plants have different water, fer-
tilizer, and maintenance needs. Group plants in beds
according to water requirements to conserve water and
make maintenance easier.
WET VERSUS DRY
Many drought-tolerant plants thrive in elevated dry spots
or in windy areas but can quickly succumb to root dis-
eases and pest problems if planted in areas that tend to
stay wet. Drought-tolerant plants do well in exposed areas
and along the unshaded southern or western walls of
buildings, but you should place plants adapted to wet soils
in low spots, along waterways, and in areas with poor
drainage.
WIND-WISE PLANTINGS
Florida winter winds tend to blow from the north or
northwest. A solid fence or a row of evergreens on the
north side of a house forms a barrier against cold winter
winds, which can dry and damage plants. In the summer,
winds typically originate in the south, so allow cooling
breezes in your outdoor living spaces by keeping tall bar-
riers away from the southern edge of your landscape.
Since Florida is frequently in the path of hurricanes,
choose trees that are known for sturdiness in high winds.
MADE IN THE SHADE
Position trees and shrubs strategically to help cool or heat
your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south,
east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer
and allow warming in winter. Tree shade can significantly
reduce air conditioning costs. An air-conditioning system's
outdoor compressor/condenser unit uses less energy when
it is shaded from direct sun during the day, but be careful
not to block the unit's airflow. If the warm discharge air
cannot escape, the intake air temperature rises, caln9 8
the unit to operate less efficiently.
THE LOWDOWN ON TURFGRASS
Healthy lawns cool and clean the air by absorbing carbon
dioxide, releasing oxygen, and collecting dust and dirt.
They filter stormwater runoff and reduce erosion, glare,
and noise. But the many benefits of grass are only realized
when it's cared for and used properly. Grass thrives in
sunny areas, but most types do not grow well in dense
shade. In shady spots, plant shade-tolerant groundcovers
instead of turf.
NATIVES VERSUS NON-NATIVES
A common misconception is that Florida-Friendly
Landscaping™ principles dictate the use of only plant
species native to Florida. In fact, the FFL Program encour-
ages a mix of natives and non-natives, depending on what
plants are right for that particular location. "Right Plant,
Right Place" governs the selection of plants, bearing in
mind the soil, light, water, wind, and other conditions at
that site. Do not forget to consider plant colors, textures,
and bloom times. See the IFAS Assessment of Non-native
Plants in Florida's Natural Areas (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/
assessment/conclusions.html) for a list of invasive species
that should be removed where possible and never planted.
SOIL CONDITIONS
It is important to know your soil type before selecting
plants for the site. Your landscape may have different soil
types in different areas. A soil test can tell you the pH of
your soil and what amendments may be used, such as
compost or manure, to improve or alter your soil condi-
tions. If your soil is compacted, as is frequently the case
on new home sites, you should loosen and amend your
soil as you add planting beds for optimum root health.
PLANT SELECTION
The choice of plants determines how much maintenance a
landscape requires and also how long it lasts. Use these
steps as a guide to selecting the right plants for the right
places in your Florida-Friendly yard.
· Choose low-maintenance plants suited to your site.
· Welcome wildlife.
· Group high-maintenance plants together for greater
visual impact and easier care.
· Eliminate invasive plants.
· Buy quality plants.
· Consider the mature size of the plant.
A Florida-Friendly landscaping'M Publication II
..-.,.. {\void monocultures and aim for a mosaic of trees,
;hrubs, grasses, and groundcovers.
· Plan turf areas to be functional and low-maintenance.
· Use groundcovers on slopes where grass is difficult to
maintain.
· Choose slow-growing plants that will last longer and
create less work.
· Consider wind tolerance.
· Think of maintenance requirements.
PLANT SORTING
If you are renovating your landscape, it is wise to keep
some of the plants you already have. Follow these simple
guidelines to sift through your botanical choices.
· Keep healthy plants.
· Discard tightly spaced plants.
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
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· Retain trees with long life spans.
· Save clusters of trees and the plants growing beneath
them.
· Remove unsuitable plants.
· Relocate plantings out from under eaves.
CHOOSING A LANDSCAPE
MAINTENANCE SERVICE
If you lack the desire or ability to do your own landscape
work, you may decide to hire a professional maintenance
company. Look for companies whose employees have
obtained a certificate of completion in the Florida-Friendly
Best Management Practices for Protection of Water
Resources by the Green Industries (GI-BMPs). These profes-
sionals will know how to care for your landscape in a
Florida-Friendly manner. In many areas of Florida this train-
ing is already mandatory; by January I, 2014, all commercial
fertilizer applicators must have this certificate of completion
and the accompanying license from the Department of
Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS).
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This worksheet can be used for both new and established landscapes. By following these steps, you will be on your way to a
thriving, low-maintenance landscape suited to your climate and needs.
1. Decide why you want to landscape.
Most homeowners think of landscaping as a way to add beauty to their home or to improve their property's resale value. Other
reasons to landscape are more specific, such as enhancing or screening a view, creating a microclimate, or attracting wildlife. You
may need a play area for your children, or perhaps you would like to entertain family and friends outdoors. Your passion may be
raising vegetables or simply savoring a lovely view.
Before you begin, think about how you will use your landscape. Write down as many ideas as possible. It is much easier to
remove elements from your plan than it is to add them down the line.
2. Obtain a soil analysis.
Soil plays a big part in any landscape project, influencing what plants will thrive in your yard. Determine your soil's texture
(sandy to clay), and have it tested to determine the pH-the level of acidity or alkalinity. This information will help you decide
which plants are best suited to the conditions of your yard.
Soil texture:
pH:
Any exceptions? (For example, the place where you want to put a planting bed may have more acidic soil than other areas in the
landscape.)
3. Draw a site plan.
You can use a pencil, ruler and graph paper, or computer software to draw your site plan. Do not worry about getting the scale
just right. If you have a survey of your property, you can copy it and draw on the copies.
Draw your house and existing trees, shrubs, and other plants you want to keep. If you already have an irrigation system, be sure
to note its location and various zones. Include permanent features such as utilities, hardscapes like the driveway, and water
sources like spigots. See the sample site plan provided for guidance.
EXisting tree
to remam
r---
- - ~ Waterline
Lawn - _
-. ~ --=:-/
,
~
Patio
Water
House
lawn
Lawn
epressed area
Lawn
PL
'I North
A Florido-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
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4. Inventory your landscape.
Walk around your property with your site plan, noting conditions and features that make your yard unique. Does your site call
for plants that are tolerant of cold, wind, full sun, shade, drought, occasional flooding, or salt spray? Be sure to make note of any
particularly good views that could be enhanced or bad views that need to be screened. See the sample site inventOlY & analysis
provided Jar guidance. Wontee w.nds
=----
Part Sun
Patio
Mostly Sun
(wte
Mornmg t
Afternoon)
AC Unit
Poor dramage
Wet 501\5
full Sun
J
~
I Noeth
~
1t
Summer Breezes
What kinds of conditions does your landscape have?
5. Draw an activity diagram.
On a clean copy of your site plan, sketch the locations where activities will take place (refer to your answers for step 1). Make
sure to consider views. Is there a spot you regularly look at that you want to enhance with plants that attract birds or butterflies?
Are there structures or equipment, such as a utility box or shed, which you would like to hide? See the sample activity diagram
provided Jar guidance.
Plant trees on North Side
If - - to block cold w.ntee w.nds
f ---
50 .. Seating Area
POSSible Ram
Barrel location
-
Dnveway
Patio Play Area
House
PrOVIde sh.3de on
southern exposure
Vegetable Garden
POSSible Ram Compost Bin
Barrel location
I Noeth
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'. GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
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6. Create a landscape plan.
Your landscape plan will be guided by the site inventory and analysis and activity maps discussed in steps 4 and 5. Based on
these other two diagrams, determine the types of plants you want in different locations. Do not worry about choosing specific
plants yet-just identify where you want trees, shrubs, groundcovers, Oowering plants, and grass areas. See the sample landscape
plan provided in the next section for guidance.
THE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE MASTER PLAN
Group beddry
plants In tT1.3S'.3e5
l' North
Size lawn area fer fi..n::;bc:n
and mal~
Use a vanety d cda5
and textlre5
Use water CCf"6eI'V1rk3
plarls
U=e mlCro-HT"jatlO'1
In plant beds
Va-y the heyht and
shape of pi.:rts fa-
,ntere5t
Right plart;, nght piace
fa- Iyht and mostere
Irclude natM:<n:J 1J;awn
non-natlve ptnI:5
Screen utllibe5
",th r<rt5
Capture stomwater
iNlth a r,,3In gcrden
Now that you have a plan, you can choose plants suited for the conditions in your landscape using the Florida-Friendly
Landscaping™ Plant List beginning on page 29.
A Florida.Friendly Londscaping™ Publication II
Avoid these five common mistakes for a more Florida-
Friendly Landscape.
1. OVERWATERING: WATERING TO THE POINT OF
RUNOFF OR lEACHING
Problem:
Creates pest and disease problems, wastes water, and can
wash pollutants into water bodies.
Solution:
Do not water if it has rained in the past 24 hours, or if
rain is forecast in the next 24 hours. Check your irrigation
system regularly, make sure you apply only moderate
amounts of water, and ensure that your rainfall shutoff
device is working.
2. OVERPLANTING: DESIGNING A LANDSCAPE
WITH MORE PLANTS THAN CAN BE ADEQUATELY
SUSTAINED
Problem:
Can result in cramped plants more prone to disease.
Crowded plantings can also interfere with sidewalk and
driveway access and block views from windows.
Solution:
Design landscapes with the plants' mature sizes in mind. If
landscapes must look "full" quickly, use plants that are
already at mature or nearly mature size.
3. OVERPRUNING: REMOVING MORE FOLIAGE OR
BRANCHES FROM A PLANT THAN IS HEALTHY FOR IT
Problem:
Can weaken trees and shrubs, making them more suscep-
tible to insect or disease problems.
. FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
Solution:
Never remove more than 30 percent of the foliage from an
ornamental plant or shrub at one time. Know the right
time of year to prune your plant, and use plants that are
the right size for the location.
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4. FERTILIZING INAPPROPRIATELY: APPLYING MORE
FERTILIZER THAN NECESSARY, APPLYING THE
WRONG KIND OF FERTILIZER, OR APPLYING IT
AT THE WRONG TIME OF YEAR
Problem:
Can cause pollution if washed into ground or surface
water, causing fish kills and unhealthy algal blooms. Can
also burn plant roots.
Solution:
Fertilize only when needed, using a fertilizer containing
slow-release nitrogen. For turf, do not exceed the rate of 1
lb. total N per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn at each application.
Use compost and other soil amendments to supply plant
nutrients instead of fertilizing. "Weed and feed" products
are not recommended.
5. USING PESTICIDES INCORRECTLY: APPLYING
MORE THAN THE RECOMMENDED AMOUNT OF
PESTICIDES, APPLYING THE WRONG PESTICIDES,
OR APPLYING THEM TOO OFTEN
Problem:
Can cause insects to develop resistance to the chemicals
and may harm beneficial garden insects.
Solution:
Use Integrated Pest Management OPM) for an environ-
mentally friendly approach to pest management. Avoid
overwatering and fertilizing inappropriately to help keep
pests from becoming a problem.
· Florida-Friendly Plant List
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lOB
The planfs: on"f;his. Florida-Friendly plant list are considered by UF /IFAS horticulture specialists to be well adapted
to growing in Florida landscapes. The plants on this list are not the only plants that can be used in Florida. Contact
your county's UF/IFAS Extension office to determine if a plant not on the list is suitable for your region.
When planted under appropriate soil, light, and climatic conditions, most plants on the list generally require little
maintenance compared with other plants. Each plant's preferred growing conditions (soil pH, soil texture, relative
drought tolerance, soil drainage/moisture, light range, light optimum, and salt tolerance) are included here as a
guide to choosing plants for your specific site conditions. Additional information is given on growth rate, mature
height and spread, flowering color and season, value to wildlife, wind resistance and other characteristics helpful
for plant selection and maintenance.
Many plants listed as Annuals are considered Perennials in some areas of the state and vice versa. The microcli-
mate and the amount of care given to the plants will ultimately determine their staying power in the landscape.
See the key to symbols and abbreviations used in the tables for details. Remember to always put the right plant in
the right place by matching each plant's needs with the environmental conditions found at the site. There may be
variation in some characteristics, especially in the region (north, central or south) of Florida in which plants will
grow. Check with your county's UF /IFAS Extension office to confirm the appropriateness of specific plants (look in
the government pages of your phone book or see http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/mapforyour county's contact
information).
USE THE LIST TO CHOOSE PLANTS BASED ON YOUR
SITE CONDITIONS, FOllOWING THESE STEPS:
listed. (Take samples and obtain a soil test through
your county's Extension office.)
1. Find out and write down the conditions of the bed or
other area you want to plant:
. Soil moisture (Is it in a high, dry area or a low area
where water frequently accumulates? To check
drainage, dig a small hole, add water and see how
quickly the water drains - if water stands for more
than 24 hours, consider it a wet site.)
. The region of the state you live in. (Check the map
on page 2 and remember that if you live close to
the border of a region, all of the plants listed for
that region may not do well in your area and some
of the plants that do well in the next region may do
well in your area.)
. Exposure to salt spray or salty irrigation water.
. Size of area for plants. (Are there height restrictions
such as a window nearby or power lines above? Is
the width of the area limited?)
. The amount of light the site receives. (Check at
various times throughout the day and through the
seasons. )
2. Determine the type of plant you want (tree, shrub,
ete.) and go to that category on the list.
. Soil pH and texture. The pH ranges given in the
legend are not absolute, but rather for guidance as
to the optimum pH conditions. Some plants may do
well if the pH is slightly higher or lower than those
3. Narrow down the list by choosing plants that match
the region, light, soil conditions and moisture at the
site.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
4. Further narrow your list to those plants that will fit
the site based on mature height and spread.
5. Consider the need for salt tolerant plants, if applica-
ble, and any additional factors you are interested in,
such as wildlife value or Oower color and season.
For further assistance, contact the Florida Yards &
Neighborhoods or horticulture program at your county's
UF/IFAS Extension office.
II FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN . 2010
lOB
This list is meant as a guide to start choosing plants
appropriate for your conditions. The absence of a plant
from this list does not imply that it is not well adapted to
Florida landscape conditions. This list will be updated
periodically. Please check with your county's UF/IFAS
Extension office for future updates.
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For additional information and fact sheets on many of the
plants on this list, see also http://horLifas.uO.edu/woodyl.
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KEY TO SYMBOLS AND ABBREVIATIONS
lOb
FLORIDA REGION ZONES:
Region (includes Florida regions in which plant will grow):
USDA COLD HARDINESS ZONES:
Includes Florida zones only.
. = North
,i. = Central
S = South
NATIVE STATUS:
Yes = Florida native
USDA cold hardiness
zones are listed to
the right of the
Florida Region
zones.
No = Not a Florida native
Var. = Native status depends on species selection
GROWTH RATE, HEIGHT AND SPREAD:
Growth rate = Slow or Fast (if no rate is given the plant does not grow exceptionally fast or slow.)
1I = mature height in feet c;> = mature spread in feet
SOIL pH (GIVES THE RANGE TOLERATED BY THE PLANT):
.00 0 = Acid 4.5-5.5 o. . 0 = Slightly acid to slightly alkaline 6.0-7.2
. . 0 0 = Acid to slightly acid 4.5-6.5 0 . .. = Slightly acid to alkaline 6.0-8.0
. . . 0 = Acid to slightly alkaline 4.5-7.2 . . .. = Tolerates any soil pH 4.5-8.0
o . 0 0 = Slightly acid 6.0-6.8
SOIL TEXTURE:
CIL = clay loam
SOIL MOISTURE:
6 = well drained
~ = medium drained
SIL = sandy loam
S = sandy
SIC = sandy clay
any = any texture
. = wet
6 ~ = well drained to medium drained
~ . = medium drained to wet
6 ~ . = well drained to wet
DROUGHT TOLERANCE:
High, Medium, Low, or None
(Note: Both drought tolerance and soil moisture tolerance should be considered, and they are not the same. For example, a plant may toler-
ate wet soils and also have high drought tolerance, and another plant may prefer well drained soils but have low drought tolerance.)
LIGHT RANGE AND LIGHT OPTIMUM:
~ = Full Sun :~ = Partial Shade
Q = Shade
D = Optimum light conditions
SALT TOLERANCE:
H = High M = Medium
L-N = Low to None
U = Unknown
WILDLIFE:
W = Attracts butterflies
~ = Attracts hummingbirds
'( = Attracts other birds
A Florida-Friendly Londscaping1M publicatiOn.
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
6~.
~ ;~ L-N
~
also known as Acer saccharum
ssp. floridanum; green, spring
flowers; susceptible to aphids
and cottony maple scale
6~
~ ;~ Q L-N
~
edible fruit (e. illinoinensis);
white/yellow, spring flowers;
high wind resistance for C.
f1oridana, medium to high for
C. glabra and C. lomenlosa,
low for C. illinoinensis;
susceptible to pests
6~.
~;~
Any
Medium
~
red, winter through spring flow-
ers; red fall foliage; susceptible
to aphids, cottony maple scale,
and gall mites; shallow-rooted;
does best in rich, organic soils;
good for wet sites; medium to
low wind resistance
....
No
40-55~
Any
High
6~
~
rapid grower first few years;
deciduous, pink/white, five-
petaled fall through winter flow-
ers; large roots form at base
just beneath soil
L-N
6~.
~;~
Any
Low
needs soil space for root
expansion; grows best with
high soil moisture; chlorosis
develops in alkaline soil; toler-
ates periodic flooding but not
long periods of drought; medi-
um to high wind resistance
Conocarpus erectus
Buttonwood,
Silver Buttonwood
L-N
lOb- 11 Yes
5-5011 15-20~
o . . . Any
6 High
~;~ H
~
white/cream, spring flowers;
susceptible to pests; high wind
resistance; provides cover and
nesting for wildlife
II
1-0-6
..,~.
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Yes
Bucida buceras
Black Olive, Oxhorn Bucida,
Gregorywood
IS' 1 Ob- 11 No
L.::.J
Fast 45-6011 35-50~
00..
Any
High
L-N
6
~
H
;~ .r-:-.
:=.:- ~
white, spring flowers; messy
fruit and leaves; medium-low
wind resistance; susceptible to
pests; caution - may be invasive
in South Florida
~ 1 Ob- 11 Yes
Fast 40-6011 30-50~
. . . . Any
~ High
~;~ M
W ~
not for small areas; spreading
canopy shades parks, large yards;
may start as epiphyte, killing host
tree (often encircling cabbage
palm); fallen fruits may be messy;
medium-low wind resistance, can
be difficult to distinguish from inva-
sive species; susceptible to pests
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..00
..00
.
L-N -~ L-N
'" W '"
6~
~
W
tolerotes occasionally wet soil;
does not tolerate compacted
soil; susceptible to ash borer,
cankers, and leaf spots; medi-
um-high wind resistance
good plant for retention ponds,
swales and canal banks; does
best in rich, organic soils
...0 ...0
6 ~ Medium 6
~;~ L-N ~ ;'h., H
~
W '"
showy, white, spring flowers;
yellow fall foliage with a"rac-
tive yellow fruit; understory tree
that does best in rich, organic
soil; water during drought and
avoid compacted soils
very similar to Juniperus
si/icico/a but branches
straighter; provides food for
wildlife
..00
~.
-~
W
Any
Medium
~ L-N
~
good for shaded areas;
medium to low wind resistance;
susceptible to pests; does best
in rich, organic soils
....
6~
~;~
Medium
'"
many cultivars; provides food
for wildlife; medium to high
wind resistance
II
..00
~.
-~
Low
L-N
white, spring through summer
flowers; good for retention
pond edges; can tolerate
full sun only with sufficient
moisture; does best in rich,
organic soils; susceptible to
nematodes
. . . 0 Any
M
6
~
W
L-N
Medium
;'h.,
~
yellow/orange, spring through
summer flowers; susceptible
pests and diseases; newly
transplanted trees susceptible
to leaf yellowing and drop
w/o enough moisture; low
wind resistance
08
No
G,H,S Fast Fast
Soil pH, Txt ...0 Any Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ Medium 6 High
Light/Best ~ L-N ~ :~ H
Salt :=oc..
Wildlife W ..."
small, yellow, early spring
flowers; edible fruit in June
and July; susceptible to scales
small, white/pink, spring
through summer flowers;
medium to high wind
resistance
Yes
Fast
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ . 6 Medium
Light/Best ~:~ M ~ :~ L-N
Salt :=oc..
Wildlife ..."
showy fall color; white,
inconspicuous spring flowers;
medium to high wind resistance
..."
many cultivars for edible fruit;
low wind resistance; susceptible
to pests
6~
~:~
Any
Medium
..."
white/cream, fragrant, summer
Rowers; attractive red seeds
provide food for wildlife; tolerates
occasionally wet soil; high wind
resistance; leaves and fruit
require frequent cleanup; attrac-
tive pyramidal growth habit;
susceptible to scale
6
~
W
:~ ~ H
:=oc.. ~
..."
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; trunk is rarely
straight; makes a nice accent in
a large scale landscape; seeds
provide food for wildlife
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Yes
H
~.
-~
W
..."
None
L-N
white, spring flowers; small red
seeds provide food for wildlife;
medium-high wind resistance
K11 S 9- 11 Yes
Fast 75-100if 35-509
. . 0 0 Any
6 ~ High
~:~ H
..."
Aammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; medium to low wind
resistance; seeds provide food for
wildlife; tolerates occasionally wet
soil; declines if roots and surround-
ing areas are compacted or dis-
turbed; susceptible to pests
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..00
6~.
~;~
~
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; medium to low wind
resistance; seeds provide food for
wildlife; tolerates occasionally wet
soil; declines if roots and surround-
ing areas are compacted or dis-
turbed; susceptible to pests
....
~.
~;~ H
W ~
deciduous; lavender/white
flowers; all parts are poisonous;
provides food for wildlife
..00
...0
H
6~.
~;~
6~
~
L-N
~
~
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; low wind resistance;
declines if roots and surround-
ing areas are compacted or
disturbed
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; medium to low wind
resistance; susceptible to pests;
resistant to fusiform rust; toler-
ates occasionally wet soil
..00
..00
6~.
~;~
6~
~
Medium
M
needs space; sheds continually;
leaves scorch if insufficient
water; susceptible to mites, lace
bugs, and anthracnose; good
for erosion control on stream
banks; medium to low wind
resistance
provides food for wildlife; toler-
ates occasionally wet soil
.
..00
L-N
6~
~
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; fast growing; 3-6"
cones; susceptible to pests and
diseases
..00 Any
6 ~ Medium
M ~ ;~ H
:=.:.;
~
provides food for wildlife; not
adapted to dry areas; does best
in rich, organic soil; medium to
high wind resistance
06
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Solt
6~
~
L-N
6
~
W
'(
Wildlife
'(
provides food for wildlife;
underused tree that is well
adapted to Florida
low wind resistance; provides
food for wildlife
Yes
Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ 6~ High
light/Best ~ M ~;~ H
Solt
Wildlife W '( W '(
provides food for wildlife;
tolerates occasionally wet soil;
medium to high wind resistance
provides food for wildlife; not
for small lots; susceptible to
caterpillars, root rot and insect
galls; tolerates occasionally wet
soil; high wind resistance
M
6~
~;~
Low
'(
provides food for wildlife; tolerates
occasionally wet soils; in wet soils
rot may be a problem; best in full
sun but tolerates shade when
young; tolerant of urban condi-
tions; medium to high wind resist-
ance; may slow growth of under-
story plants
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No
L-N
6~
~
L-N
'(
provides food for wildlife;
tolerates occasionally wet soil
S 10b-ll Yes S 10b-ll Yes
30-5011' 25-309 Fast 40-7511' 40-609
.... Any .... Any
6 Medium 6 ~ High
~ ;~ H ~ ;~ H
~ ~
'(
yellow, summer flowers;
medium to high wind
resistance; don't plant near
sidewalks and driveways
(surface roots)
II
'(
medium to high wind resist-
ance; tolerates occasionally wet
soil; susceptible to webworms
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....
6~'
~:~ M
~
flammable plant - in wildfire
prane areas, plant minimum
30' from buildings; wetland
plant & adapts to dry sites;
deciduous; yellow-brown fall
color; small seeds provide food
for wildlife; high wind resistance
....
6~
~:~
M
low wind resistance;
susceptible to pests and
freeze damage in North
Florida; tolerates occasionally
wet soil; form varies with
cultivar
....
....
6~'
~:~
W
6~'
~:~
W
M
~
susceptible to Dutch elm
disease; medium to high wind
resistance
long-lived; susceptible to
Dutch elm disease; medium
to low wind resistance
II
M
. . . . Any
6 ~. High
~:~ M
susceptible to Dutch elm
disease and powdery mildew
OtJ
Scientific Avicennia germinans Bursera simaruba Caesalpinia spp. and cvs. Carpentaria acuminata
Common Black Mangrove Gumbo Limbo Poinciana Carpentaria Palm
90-11 Yes Yes No No
G, H, S 10- 20q Fast
Soil pH, Txt .... S 0... 0..0 0..0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt . None 6 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ Medium
light/Best ~ ;~ H ~ ;~ M ~ M ~ L-N
Salt := :=
Wildlife W 'tf
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
1-013
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white, year-round flowers
attract bees; very good for
salty shorelines with full sun;
produces pneumatophores
(breathing roots) that protrude
around base of tree
susceptible to pests if stressed;
high wind resistance
choose species adapted to
region; do not confuse with
De/onix regia; flowers vary
white/ cream, spring
through fall flowers; tolerates
occasionally wet soil; can
cause skin irritation
Wildlife
6~'
I_I ;~ Q L-N
'tf
Fast
6 Medium
~ L-N
W
Yes
..00
18-25q
Any
High
6
~ ;~ Q L-N
W 'tf
6
~
;~
:=
H
'tf
orange/yellow, spring flowers;
small enough to plant under
powerlines; seeds and catkins
provide food for wildlife; excel-
lent understory tree; medium to
high wind resistance
yellow, summer flowers; showy
blooms; low wind resistance
cultivars provide variety of
foliage and flower color; spring
flowers; susceptible to pests;
beans provide food for wildlife;
medium to high wind resistance
fragrant flowers; provides food
for wildlife; edible fruit; medium
to high wind resistance
II
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...0
6
~
High
;~
~
~
white, summer flowers; edible
fruit; susceptible to weevils;
provides food for wildlife;
compact crown makes it good
for small areas; medium to high
wind resistance; bark peels
and becomes showy with age
....
6
~
orange/red, summer flowers;
medium to low wind resistance;
needs large area; caution -
may be invasive in South
Florida
0...
Any
High
6~.
~;~
L-N
....
H
6
~
W
~
~
;~Q
H
tolerant of salt or brackish
water; orange, year-round
flowers; foliage may be
damaged by geiger beetles;
damaged by severe freezes;
high wind resistance
provides food and cover for
wildlife; flowers vary; best for
North Florida; many species
and cultivars
0..0
....
M
6
~
~
~;~
W
~
;~
~
u
M
~
evergreen; pink/white,
spring through summer flowers;
provides food for wildlife
edible fruit; lacks aerial roots,
but still requires adequate room
for root development; don't
plant in drainfields due to
aggressive roots; can be diffi-
cult to distinguish from invasive
spec i es
.
....
6
~
High
u
evergreen; green foliage with
silver/gray shimmer; good as
specimen or windbreak
...0
6
~
Medium
;~
~
M
~
may have severe disease
problems in central parts of the
state; provides pollen for bees
u
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
~.
~:~Q M
W ~
Wildlife
white, spring Flowers; provides
pollen For bees and berries For
variety of wildliFe; does best in
rich, organic soils; high wind
resistance
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6
light/Best ~ :~ H
Salt ~
Wildlife W ~
branches drooping; low wind
resistance; provides Food, cover,
and nesting For birds; good For
dunes; susceptible to pests such
as juniper blight and mites
Any
6~. High
~:~ M
W ~
male and Female Flowers
appear on separate trees, both
sexes must be in same neigh-
borhood For production of
berries on Female plants
6~
~
~
Form, size, disease resistance,
bloom season, Flower and bark
color vary with cultivar; plant For
good air circulation; high wind
resistance; susceptible to aphids
and sooty mold; bark peels and
becomes showy with age
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No No
Fast
0..0 Any
6 6 High
~ :~ L-N ~ L-N
~
~
white, spring Flowers provide
pollen For bees; provides Food
For wildliFe
lavender/blue, spring through
summer Flowers; messy when
leaves and Flowers drop; soft
wood, breaks easily; low wind
resistance
Yes
L-N
6
Itfl :~ Q L-N
~
6~.
~:~ H
W ~
Fall color; nuts provide Food
For wildliFe; medium to high
wind resistance
larval Food plant For swallowtail
butterFlies; insect galls can
distort leaves; medium to low
wind resistance
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..00 ...0 ...0 Any .... Any
~ . Medium 6 6 ~ Medium . Medium
~ :'& L-N ~ :'& L-N ~ :'& L-N ~ H
~ ~ ~
W ~ ~ W
purple fruit; good wetland plant grows slower in full shade; tolerates occasionally wet soil; yellow, year-round flowers
high wind resistance provides food for wildlife
Tabebuia chrysofricha
Yellow Trumpet Tree,
Golden Trumpet Tree
Kllll 9B-ll No La No Kl Yes
25-35ll' 15-25q
.... .... Any .... 0..0
6 Medium 6 High 6 ~ Low
~ M ~ M-H ~ M ~:~ U
W
yellow, spring flowers;
medium to low wind resistance
pink/white, spring through
summer flowers; medium to low
wind resistance; susceptible to
holopothrips
showy, pinkish-purple, spring
flowers; medium to low wind
resistance
deciduous; spines; host plant
for Giant Swallowtail butterfly;
white, spring flowers
II
Db
G,H,S
Soil pH, T xt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
G,H,S
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
6~
~
High
~
also known as Acacia smalJii;
yellow, year-round flowers;
tharny; tolerates occasionally
wet soil; provides food and
cover for birds and insects;
don't plant next to sidewalk
6
None
I:~ Q L-N
~
red/orange/green, spring
flowers; grows in clusters
6~
Any
Medium
M
:~~ M
W~
attractive bark; red, spring
flowers; tolerates occasionally
wet soil; poisonous seeds
Yes
6~
~:~
W
~ L-N
~
~
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.
Ard;s;a escollon;o;des
Marlberry,
Marbleberry
JIHII 9- 11 Yes
10- 20iJ
0...
also knawn as Angelica
spinosa; small, white, spring
through summer flowers;
purplish berries provide food
for wildlife; sharp thorns;
tolerates occasionally wet soil;
can sucker to produce a thicket
6~
_~,QH
~
fragrant, white, year-raund
flowers; attractive foliage;
round purple fruit provide food
for wildlife mostly in fall and
winter; good for screens and
hedges
No
Fast
0..0
6~' Medium 6 6
~ M ~ :~ M ~ :~
:=; :=;
feathery, white, fall flowers;
poisonous seeds; useful for wet
sites such as retention ponds
and ditches; can spread from
seed
edible fruit used for jelly;
provides food for wildlife; looks
best in full sun; white flowers;
susceptible to pests; high wind
resistance
II
No
L-N
~
pink/white, fall through spring
flowers; only CalJiandra
haematocephala assessed as
not a problem
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OB
Canella winterana
wild Cinnamon,
Cinnamon Bark
~" lob-ll Yes
Slow 10-30il' 10-30e?
o . . . S/L
No
..00
..00
0..0
6
~~
~
~ ~ Q L-N
~
f~ Q L-N
High
6
~
W
High
:~
::.=.:.;
Q
H
M
~
purple, summer flowers
some groundcover cvs.
available; fall through winter
flowers, colors vary; susceptible
to scales, mites, aphids and
chewing insects; requires acid
soil and has problems if pH is
too high
many cvs. with a variety of
flower colors; up to 6 inches, in
winter through spring; suscepti-
ble to scales, aphids, chewing
insects and fungus; requires
acid soil and has problems if
pH is too high
red, spring through summer
flowers; medium to low wind
resistance; attracts beneficial
insects; only C. cifrinus, C.
rigidus, C. viminaJis assessed
as not a problem
...0 ..00 0..0 Any
~ . None 6 Medium 6 High
~:~ L-N ~ Q L-N ~ :~ M
::.=.:.;
W ~
0...
6
~
W
H
clumping palm; yellow, summer
flowers; pest sensitive; very cold
hardy; low maintenance com-
pared to other palms; petioles
with sharp teeth
dark green foliage; suitable for
use as a hedge or specimen
plant
flammable plant - in wildfire
prone areas, plant minimum 30'
from buildings; attracts insects;
white, spring flowers; good for
retention ponds/ swales/canal
banks; well adapted to disturbed
soils
purple/white, spring flowers
.
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Solt
Wildlife
G, H,S
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
~.
~~
Medium
white, spring through summer
flowers; grows very slowly,
usuolly 4 to 10 inches per yeor,
but con grow 0 foot per year
if given rich, moist soil ond
appropriate fertilization
6
~
;~
'="-
white, year-round flowers
L-N
6~
~~
Any
Medium
~ L-N
~
'(
showy, white, spring flowers;
flowers best in sun; pest
sensitive; tolerates occasionally
wet soil; medium to high wind
resistance
6
Low
M
~
~ L-N
~
'(
white, spring flowers; blue
berries provide food for
wildlife; larval food plant for
spring azure butterfly;
susceptible to borers
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Yes
8-15<=:>
...0 Any ...0
6 High 6
~ ;~ H ~ ;~
'="- '="-
W '( W
also known as Citharexy/um
fruticosum; white, fragrant flow-
ers all year; provides food for
wildlife; useful as a tall hedge
6
~~
Q
L-N
"f
prefers deep, rich, well-drained
sandy or clay soils and has a
moderately long life; roots rot
in soils without adequate
drainage; susceptible to pests
and disease
.
Yes
deciduous with continual leaf
drop; fragrant, white, spring
flowers; provides food for large
wildlife; susceptible to weevils;
grows as shrub on coastal
dunes and as tree inland;
medium to high wind resistance
Yes
~.
~ ~ L-N
W
white, spring through summer
flowers; wetland plant; good
for edges of retention ponds;
attractive to bees
.
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....
....
....
0...
6 ~ High
~ ;~ H
~
6
~
High
6
~
6
~
;~
~
;~
~
H
H
~
flowers vary; needs little atten-
tion once established; natives
are E. axil/oris, E. foetida, E.
rhombea, and E. confusa; E.
axiliaris, E. confusa, E. foetida
have high wind resistance
semi-evergreen to evergreen;
yellow, early spring flowers;
great hedge plant; provides
food for wildlife; flowers attract
insects
yellow, summer through fall
flowers; showy, colorful fruit
white, fall through winter
flowers; medium to low wind
resistance; susceptible to pests;
caution - may be invasive in
Central and South Florida
...0
...0
..00
....
Medium
Medium
6
-~
M
6~
_~au
~
6
~
6~
~;~
;~
~
M
M
~
~
~
white; spring flowers; important
source of pollen for bees
white, spring flowers;
important source of pollen for
bees; provides food for wildlife
susceptible to tea scale, espe-
cially in cool, shady areas; pro-
vides food for wildlife; many
cultivars available; important
source of pollen for bees
small, white, spring flowers;
small orange/red fruit provide
food for wildlife; be sure to
purchase female trees for fruit
production
II
l~i-
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
.
~ M
'"
flammable plant - in wildfire
prone areas, plant minimum
30' from buildings; white,
spring flowers; black fruit pro-
vides food for wildlife in late
fall and winter; good for wet-
land/pine areas; high wind
6
~
Medium
:~
~
white, summer flowers; suscepti-
ble to pests and diseases; used
as hedge; thins at bottom unless
in full sun
Yes
Fast
....
Low 6 Medium .
L-N ~ :~ Q U ~ :~
~ ~
6~'
-~
W
'"
Rammable, in wildfire prane areas,
plant minimum 30' from buildings;
white, spring through summer Row-
ers; red fruit on female plants pro-
vides food for wildlife in late foil and
winter; 'Pendula' - FNGlA Plant of
the Year, 2005; high wind resisfance;
can sucker fa produce a thicket
H
6~
~:~
many cultivars; pink/white/
lavender, fragrant, winter
through spring flowers;
susceptible to pests; medium
to high wind resistance
Var.
H
6
-~
6-150=>
Any
Medium
evergreen, yellowish-white or
greenish-white flowers
also known as Michelia Fi90;
light-yellow, spring through early
summer flowers; fragrance simi-
lar to ripening cantaloupes or
bananas; generally used as
specimen plant; susceptible to
scale and mushroom root rot
II
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....
No
5- 1 Do=>
Any
High
L-N
L-N
6
~
W
~
:~
~
scarlet, year-round flowers;
poisonous; susceptible to pests
and disease; sensitive to frost
No
Low
L-N
edible fruit; showy purple
or orange flowers; needs
regular watering; susceptible
to disease, pests, and frost
.
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Myrcianthes fragrans
Simpson's Stopper,
Twinberry
Any
High
No
6~'
~:~
W
.... ....
6~' 6 Medium
L-N ~:~ H ~ M
W '(
0..0
....
6
Q H
~
'(
edible fruit; white, fragrant,
year-round flowers; red berries
provide food for wildlife;
tolerates occasionally wet soil;
needs little attention once
established
edible, black fruit; white
flowers, time of flowering
depends on cultivar
0..0
....
Medium
6
~
H
6~'
~:~
:~
:=-
H
'(
white, fragrant, spring flowers;
provides food for wildlife
fragrant, showy, spring through
fall flowers; susceptible to
frangipani caterpillar; needs
cold-protected spot if grown in
central Florida
flammable, in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; silver berries found on
female plants only; susceptible to
disease; good hedge plant; pro-
vides food and cover for wildlife;
medium to low wind resistance,
can sucker to produce a thicket
makes a great landscape plant;
requires a pollinator to fruit
...0
6
~
High
:~
:=-
H
dark green, evergreen leaves;
small, purple, fruit on females
provide food for wildlife; high
wind resistance; mildly suscepti-
ble to pests and diseases; some
magnesium deficiency on sandy
soils
II
06
light/Best
Salt
6
-~
W
Any
High
Wildlife
white, winter Rowers; reddish
plums provide food for wildlife;
medium to high wind resist-
ance; can sucker to produce a
thicket
Soil pH, Txt
Sail Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
6 ~
~:~
Wildlife
flowers vary; provides food for
wildlife; use disease-resistant
cvs., plant in full sun; suscepti-
ble to disease
M
6
~
:~
"'=-
'"
small pink, late winter flowers;
small fruit provides food for
wildlife; susceptible to tent
caterpillar
No
Fast
M
~
-~
Medium
yellow, summer flowers; should
not be confused with Senna
pendu/a
Yes
Any
Medium 6 High
L-N ~ H
u
~
-~
W
white, spring flowers; purple
plums provide food for wildlife;
edible fruits, ranging from very
tart to sweet; susceptible to tent
caterpillars; can sucker to pro-
duce a thicket
Yes
H
6~
~:~
good coastal or dune plant;
select species based on region,
soil texture, and drainage; flow-
ers vary
II
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'"
high wind resistance; good in
dune areas; pravides food for
wildlife; FNGLA plant of the
Year 2008
lS'!
Sophora tomentoso
Necklace Pod
....
10- 11 Yes
6-10il' 8-12<=:>
5/L
High
H
H
6
~
W
'"
~
evergreen shrub; weeping
shape; yellow, year-round
flowers; seeds are poisonous;
provides food for wildlife
Fast
.... Any ....
6 High 6
~ ;~ M ~ L-N
~
~
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Tabebuia Duree
Silver Trumpet Tree,
Yellow Tab
S
yellow, winter through spring
flowers; flowers emerge after
leaves drop; not wind resistant
...0
6
~
Medium
;~
~
..."
also known as Viburnum
awabuki; fragrant, small white,
spring flowers; red/black fruit
provides food for wildlife; takes
well to pruning; used for
hedges; susceptible to pests and
disease
....
6
_ ~ Q L-N
..."
evergreen; bell-shaped,
fragrant, yellow summer
through winter flowers;
produces non-edible brown
fruit; FNGLA plant of the
Year, 2005
white, winter through spring
flowers; small black fruit pro-
vides food for wildlife; provides
nesting cover for wildlife; can
sucker to produce a thicket;
dwarf cvs. are 2' to 4' tall
....
L-N
6~
~;~Q H
..."
scarlet to purple fall foliage;
clusters of small, white, spring
flowers; small black fruit pro-
vides food for wildlife; tolerates
occasionally wet soil; will not
tolerate compacted soils
.
No
....
6
~ ;~ Q L-N
~..."
white, spring flowers;
susceptible pests and disease;
often grown as a hedge; thins
in shaded sites
DB
No lS=J Yes
Slow 15-25<=:> Fast
Soil pH, lxt 0..0 SIC
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium 6 ~ ~
light/Best ~ :~ L-N ~ M ~
Solt ~
Wildlife W
Reg/Native
G, H,S
Soil pH, lxt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Solt
fine textured, semi-evergreen;
red-tinged leaves; pink/white,
spring through fall flowers;
doesn't flower in the shade
Scientific
Common
...0
~. Low
_:~~ M
Wildlife
lorge fern; good for wet
sites in shaded landscape;
prolonged sunlight, especially
in the summer, can burn foliage
Allamanda neriifolia
Bush Allamanda,
Bush Trumpet
Var. C~ I S No
Fast
0..0 0..0
6 High 6 Medium
~ H ~ ,Q L-N
W ~
also known as Acacia smallii;
yellow, year-round flowers;
thorny; tolerates occasionally
wet soil; provides food and
cover for birds and insects;
don't plant next to sidewalk
provides continuous color in the
landscape; heart-shaped leaves
in varying mottled combinations
of colors; susceptible to pests
..00
6 ~. Medium
:~ ~ L-N
evergreen, creamy white,
fragrant spring flowers
dramatic foliage and form;
evergreen, silver/gray to
blue-green foliage; showy,
green-brown fruit; sharp spines;
choose species adapted to
climate
II
No
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u
6
~
L-N
:~
~
also known as Feijoa sellowiana;
red/white, spring flowers; often
used as a hedge; provides
food/cover/nesting for wildlife
bright yellow, trumpet-shaped,
year-round flowers; bleeds
white milky sap if stems are
broken; makes an open hedge;
attractive to birds and butter-
flies
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....
~
~
w
u
evergreen; white, fragrant, sum-
mer through fall flowers
....
6~.
~
Medium
M
feathery, white, fall flowers;
poisonous seeds; useful for wet
sites such as retention ponds
and ditches; can spread by
suckers from roots
0..0
0...
6~
~;~
W
6~
-~
~ L-N
~
'f
High
,Q, H
'f
also known as Angelica
spinosa; small white, spring
through summer flowers;
purplish berries provide food
for wildlife; spiny stems; toler-
ates occasionally wet soil
fragrant, white, year-round
flowers; attractive foliage;
round, purple fruits provide
food for wildlife, mostly in fall
and winter; good for screens
and hedges
0..0
0..0
~
~;~
6~
-~
Medium
M
Medium
choose species adapted to
conditions; bamboo grows
aggressively; should not be
planted near lakefronts or
streams
evergreen shrub with upright
growth that terminates in
f1attish spikes that produce
lobed, bright, yellow flowers;
provides food for wildlife
II
0.00
6~
~;~
W
Medium
~ L-N
~
deciduous; species needs vary,
choose based on conditions;
flowers vary; larval food plant
for zebra swallowtail butterfly;
does not transplant well
0..0
u
~
~;~
Medium
evergreen; yellow, winter
through spring flowers; red fruit;
adaptable to a wide range of
soil conditions but does best in
rich, organic soil; requires prun-
ing to maintain best form; spiny;
good hedge or barrier plant
Oll
I
I
M
I
I
Scientific
Common
Reg/Native
No
lOB
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.
No
Soil pH, Txt 0..0 ...0 0..0 0..0
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6 Low 6 6
light/Best ~ ~ L-N ~ :'& L-N ~ :'& ,Q L-N ~ M
Solt '="- :=;
Wildlife W
fall calor; white, spring flowers;
good hedge or barrier plant;
persistent red fruit; susceptible
to disease
Scientific
Common
Reg/Native
G, H, S
Soil pH, T xt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
...0
6
~
:'&
'="-
Wildlife
possible cold damage from
freezing temperatures; large
fragrant flower blooms during
warm months; susceptible to
pests
flowers hang from stems and
branches and drape the plant
with color; good specimen tree;
susceptible to pests and dis-
eases
...0
6
L-N
f~ ~ L-N
..."
deciduous; purple/light purple
spring through fall flowers;
attracts wildlife; small purplish
fruits provide food for wildlife
in late winter; need to prune
old wood since flowers and fruit
are produced on new growth
white/purple, spring through
fall flowers
0..0
6 High
~ :'& M
'="-
W ~
red spring though summer
flowers; medium to low wind
resistance; attracts beneficial
insects; check with your local
Extension office before final
species selection
.
deciduous, non-fragrant,
purple/violet flowers; excellent
for butterflies; aggressive
suckering and spreads through
runners
....
6~
~
Medium
/'":-.. L - N
~
good screen; red, spring
through summer flowers with
strawberry-like fragrance; does
best in rich, organic soil
Slow 6-15c:>
..00 ..00 0... Any 0...
~ Medium ~ 6 High 6
~ Q L-N ~~ 0 L-N ~ H ~ ;~
:=c-
W
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.
many cultivars; flowers up to
6 inches, in winter through
spring, color variable;
susceptible to pests and
diseases; requires acidic soil
and has problems if pH
is too high
No
some groundcover cultivars
available; fall through winter
flowers, color variable; suscepti-
ble to pests; requires acidic soil
and has problems if pH is too
high
,
108
I
I
Capparis cynophallophora
Jamaica Caper Tree,
Mustard Tree
Yes
No
High
H
purple/white, spring flowers
also known as Carissa
grandiflora; edible fruit; white,
fragrant year-round flowers
...0
~. None
~~ L-N
W~
flammable, in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; attracts insects; white,
spring through summer flowers;
grows well in wet areas such os
detention ponds or drainage ditch-
es; well adopted to disturbed soils
No C . No S 10-11 Yes
Fast 3-30iJ 10-20c:>
..00 0..0 0..0 Any
6 Medium 6 Medium 6 Medium
~ Q L-N ~~ M ~ ;~ H
:=c-
W ~ ~ W ~
dark green foliage; suitable for
use as 0 hedge or specimen
plant
yellow/orange, spring through
summer flowers
white, year-round flowers;
edible fruit; good hedge or
screen plant; purple "plums"
provide food for wildlife; high
wind resistance
II
Scientific Coccu/us /aurifo/ius
Common Laurelleaf Snailseed, Carolina
Coralbead, Cocculus
Reg/Native Yes IIJs 9-11 Yes 19 No
G, H, 5 3-3511' 10-50c::>
Soil pH, lxt ...0 ..00 ...0 S 0..0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6 ~ . 6 High 6 ~ High
Light/Best ~ ;~ M ~ ~ Q M ~ ;~ H ~ ;~ M
Solt := := :=
Wildlife W W W ~
Scientific
Common
Reg/Native
G,H,S
Soil pH, lxt
Soil Mst, Drgt
Light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
.
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.
also known as Citharexylum
fruticosum; white, fragrant,
year-round flowers; provides
food for wildlife; useful as a tall
hedge
white, fragrant, summer
flowers; attracts bees and other
wildlife; grows well in wet areas
deciduous with continual leaf
drop; fragrant, white, spring
flowers; provides food for large
wildlife; susceptible to weevils;
grows as shrub on coastal
dunes and as tree inland; medi-
um to high wind resistance
spreading growth habit; yellow
flowers
....
Conocarpus erectus
Buttonwood,
Silver Buttonwood
No 10b-11 Yes Var.
5-5011' 15-20c::> Fast
0... Any 0..0 ....
Low 6 High 6 ~ Varies 6 ~ .
L-N ~ ;~ H ~ V ~ ;~ L-N
:= :=
6
~
~
~
wide variety of leaf color and
shape; white/yellow, summer
flowers; susceptible to pests
white/cream, spring flowers;
silver leaved form more suscep-
tible to sooty mold and insect
problems; do not plant in marl
sail; high wind resistance;
provides cover for wildlife
growing conditions vary by
species; flowers vary; cold
sensitive; check with your local
Extension office before final
species selection
provides food and cover for
wildlife; flowers vary; best for
north Florida; many species
and cultivars
.
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Yes
Yes
6-15<=:>
..00 Any 0..0
~. Medium 6
~~ L-N ~ :~ L-N
~
W W ~ ~
...0
6~
~:~
~
High
white, late spring through
summer flowers; wetland plant;
good for edges of retention
ponds; attractive to bees
also known as Duran/a repens;
showy, lavender/blue/white,
summer through fall flowers;
poisonous fruit; susceptible to
pests; irritating sap; thorns;
may spread aggressively
scarlet, tubular, spring flowers;
flowers attractive to humming-
birds; showy, pod-shaped fruit
0..0
0...
0..0
6~
~:~
H
6
~
Medium
6
Medium
High
:~ W L-N
~~
~
creamy, white, winter flowers;
too much sun eventually kills
the plant
yellow, early spring flowers
attract insects; great hedge; fruit
provides food for wildlife
evergreen shrub; yellow,
year-round flowers; susceptible'
to caterpillars and mites
II
M
L-N
Eugenia spp. (natives only)
Stoppers
r1
I.s;.,
Yes
....
5-20<=:>
Any
High
6
~
:~
~
~
flowers vary; needs little atten-
tion once established; natives
are E. axil/aris, E. foe/ida, E.
rhombea, and E. confusa; E.
axiliaris, E. confusa, E. foe/ida
have high wind resistance
..00
6
Medium
:~ lQ L-N
also known as Gardenia
augus/a; white, fragrant spring
through summer flowers; use
only grafted varieties due to
nematode susceptibility; suscep-
tible to scales; use iron fertilizer
to keep green
lOB I
I
H
Scientific
Common
Reg/Native
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
Yes
Hame/ia patens
Firebush,
Scarletbush
lei
Fast
~
Heptap/eurum arborico/a
Dwarf Schefflera
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Yes
No
5-89
Any
Medium
...0
Any
Medium
....
....
0..0
6~
-~
6
-~
6~
_ :~ ~ L-N
W~..."
Medium
6~
-~
,Q, U
..r-:-. L - N
~
M
deciduous tree; showy, bell-
shaped, white, spring flowers
cream/yellow, fall flowers; galls
form on leaves; plant suckers
freely from the base
orange/red, year-round
flowers; susceptible to pests;
foliage usually more attractive
in shade but flowers best in
sun; tolerates occasionally wet
soil; dies bock in freezes but
retu rn s
evergreen; dark green foliage;
orange/yellow winter fruit;
susceptible to scale
Soil pH, Txt ..00 0..0 Any .... ...0
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ None 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ Medium
light/Best ~:~ V ~ U :~ ~ L-N ~ :~ G L-N
Salt :=: :=:
Wildlife W
select species based on site
conditions; spring through fall
flowers, color varies; some
hibiscus injured by freezes in
North Florida; susceptible to
pests
deciduous; white, summer
flowers; oval, serrate, dark
green leaves; blooms on new
season's growth; susceptible to
disease
white/pink/purple, spring
through summer flowers;
susceptible to pests; tolerates
occasionally wet soil
pink, summer flowers; good
flowering shrub for shade;
tolerates occasionally wet soil
II
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Medium
6
~~
...0 Any ..00 Any
6~ . High 6 Medium
~~ H ~~ L-N
W ~
...0
..00
6~
~:~
M
M
~
~
white, spring flowers; important
source of pollen for bees
susceptible to tea scale,
especially in cool, shady areas;
fruit provides food for wildlife;
important source of pollen for
bees
flammable, in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; white, spring through
summer flowers; red fruit provides
food for wildlife in late fall-winter;
'Pendula' was FNGLA plant of the
Year, 2005; high wind resistance;
can sucker to produce a thicket
No
No ~.I
Fast
...0 .... ....
6 ~. Medium 6~ Medium 6
~~ Q L-N ~ L-N ~ :~
"=-
W
Medium
L-N
white, spring through summer
flowers; grows well in wet areas
such as detention ponds, swales
and canals
rambling, evergreen; will
climb like vine if given support;
fragrant, yellow flowers; dies
back in freeze, may come back
white, fragrant, year-round
flowers; dies back in freeze,
may come back; susceptible to
pests; sprawling form
iii
evergreen, yellowish-white or
greenish-white flowers
Jasminum nitidum
Star Jasmine,
Shining Jasmine
19 No
Fast
6
~
...0
Medium
evergreen to semi-evergreen
vine or shrub; white, fragrant,
spring through summer flowers
lOB
L-N
G,H,S
6
light/Best ~ :'&
Salt ==
Wildlife W ~
scarlet, year-round flowers;
poisonous; susceptible to pests
and disease; sensitive to frost
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
6~
~:~
W
High
L-N
evergreen, white/pink, spring
flowers; rusty pubescence
present on all parts of the plant
L-N
6
~
High
M
'(
flammable, in wildfire prone
area, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; does not tolerate wet
feet; good pollution tolerance;
susceptible to pests and dis-
ease; size and form vary with
cultivar
6 Medium
:'& r=:::l M
~~
'(
also known as Berberis bea/ei;
yellow, fragrant, winter through
spring flowers; glossy
grey/green leaves, holly-like
appearance; purplish-blue
berries provide food for wildlife
6
~
:'&
==
white, summer flowers;
susceptible to pests and
diseases; used as hedge; thins
at bottom unless in full sun
6~
~
Medium
red/white, warm season
flowers; possible cold damage
in North Florida
.
No
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H
6
~
L-N
:'&
~
white/pink, spring flowers; size
varies; susceptible to pests and
diseases; in high pH soils may
have minor element deficiencies
Murraya panicu/ata
Orange Jessamine,
Orange Jasmine, Chalcas
No
L-N
LQ No
slow 8-15c::>
.... Any
6 High
~ :'& L-N
==
~ '(
white, fragrant, year-round
flowers; good container plant;
often used as a hedge; provides
food for wildlife; susceptible to
pests
.
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. . . . Any
. Low
6~.
~:~Q H
W ..."
.... ...0
6~ . 6
~:~ H ~ :~ M
~
W ..."
0...
~
:~
:.=..;
L-N
edible fruit; showy purple or
orange flowers; needs regular
watering; susceptible to dis-
ease, pests, and frost
edible fruit; white, fragrant,
year-round flowers; red
berries provide food for
wildlife; tolerates occasionally
wet soil; needs little attention
once established
flammable, in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; susceptible to disease;
good hedge plant; provides food
and cover for wildlife; medium
to low wind resistance, can
sucker to produce a thicket
0..0
0..0
0..0
Medium
Medium
~.
-~
6
~
6~.
~:~
:~
~
L-N
H
..."
white, fragrant, spring flowers;
provides food for wildlife
white, fragrant, fall through
spring flowers; susceptible to
pests
deciduous; white, spring flowers
II
good, low maintenance plant
for coastal areas; susceptible to
oleander caterpillar; poisonous
0..0
6~
Medium
u
:~ ~ L-N
large, deeply divided,
drooping leaves; green,
year-round flowers; susceptible
to freeze damage; tolerates
occasionally wet soil
Reg/Native
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Reg/Native
G,H,S
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Scientific
Common
0..0
6~.
:~ ~ L-N
Wildlife
select species based on site
conditions; check with your
local Extension office before
final species selection
6
Medium
Wildlife
~QM
W ~
shiny, dark green foliage;
white, spring through summer
flowers; susceptible to pests; red
fruit provides food for wildlife
...0
No C
...0 Any ...0
6 Medium 6
H ~ :~ L-N ~ :~
:.= :.=
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No
6
~
:~
:.=
H
dark, glossy leaves; white,
fragrant, spring flowers
grows slowly in full shade; high
wind resistance
dark green, evergreen leaves;
small, purple, fruit on females
provide food for wildlife; high
wind resistance; mildly suscepti-
ble to pests and diseases; some
magnesium deficiency on sandy
soils
Yes
6
~
u
6 Medium 6 Medium
~ L-N ~ L-N
W ~ ~ W ~ ~
yellow/orange, clustered spring pink/white, spring flowers;
flowers prefers well drained soil that
retains moisture
:~ ~
:.= ~
~
bright green, deciduous
leaves, turn orange/red before
dropping; inconspicuous,
green/white, summer flowers;
black fruits provide food for
wildlife
.
Stre/itzia nico/ai
Giant Bird of Paradise,
White Bird of Paradise
Yes C No
Fast 15-20q
...0 0..0 Any ....
6 ~ Low 6
~ :'& L-N - ~ L-N ~ :'&
::=.:.. ::=.:..
W
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..00
....
6
6~
_~~M
W ~
~
W~
choose species based on site
conditions; flowers vary
blueish green, fan shaped leaves;
small, white flowers; black
berries provide food for wildlife
in fall; difficult to transplant;
good understory plant; prefers
moist soils but tolerates drier con-
ditions after establishment
dense, low-branching, compact,
evergreen; small, oval, glossy,
dark green leaves; slender,
thorny branches; small, fra-
grant, white, spring through
summer flowers; susceptible to
freeze damage
large, banana-like leaves,
blue/white, year-raund flowers;
susceptible to scales when air
circulation is inadequate;
foliage may tear in the wind
....
6~
~
L-N
susceptible to freeze damage
and pests; susceptible to cater-
pillar damage; larval food plant
for various sulphur butterflies;
should not be confused with
Senna penduJa
Yes
High
evergreen, tiny, gray/green
leaves; yellow, year-round
flowers; commonly found
growing in thickets, on sand
dunes, and rocky shores
II
H
l-O-S
0...
~
-~
Medium
H
yellow, summer flowers; should
not be confused with Senna
penduJa
Tabernaemontana diva rica to
Crape Jasmine,
Pinwheel Flower
C
No
Fast
....
6
-~
Low
L-N
evergreen, white, ruffle-edged,
summer flowers that are
fragrant at night; susceptible to
pests and diseases
.
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-(01
Thunbergia erecta Tibouchina urvilleana
King's Mantle, Princess Flower,
Bush Clock Vine Glory Bush, Lasiandra
C No rC~ S 9b-ll No
Fast Fast lO-lSiI lO-lS~
.... 0..0 S/L
6 ~ Medium 6 High
- ~ L-N ~ L-N
W
Reg/Native No
G, H, S Fast
Soil pH, lxt .... Any 0..0
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium 6
Light/Best ~ L-N ;,& ~ L-N
Soli -=---
~
Wildlife
yellow, summer through winter
flowers; FNGLA plant of the
Year, 2005; susceptible to
freeze damage
dense, unusually dark green
foliage; yellow to dark red fruit;
white, fragrant, spring flowers;
good as a hedge
purple, year-round flowers;
good as a hedge
evergreen; dark green, velvety,
leaves; purple, year-round flow-
ers; FNGLA plant of the Year in
2005
Scientific
Common
Reg/Native
G,H,S
Soil pH, lxt
Soil Mst, Drgt
Light/Best
Solt
..00
..00
Medium 6~ Medium
U -~ ,Q L-N
W ..."
....
....
6 Medium
~ ;~,Q L-N
~..."
6
~
6
_ ~,Q L-N
..."
Wildlife
evergreen; dark green, velvety
leaves; purple, year-round flow-
ers
deciduous; white, spring flow-
ers; showy fall color; tolerates
occasionally wet soil; provides
food and cover for wildlife;
attracts pollinating insects
white, winter through spring
flowers; small black fruit pro-
vides food for wildlife; provides
nesting cover for wildlife; can
sucker to produce a thicket;
dwarf cvs. are 2' to 4' tall
white, spring flowers; suscepti-
ble to pests and disease; often
grown as a hedge; thins in
shaded sites
II
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...0
Any
Medium
o
~
;~
~
L-N
~
also known as Viburnum
awabuki; fragrant, small white,
spring flowers; red/black fruit
provides food for wildlife;
takes well to pruning; used for
hedges; susceptible to pests
and disease
...0
o
~
W
;~
~
choose species based on site
conditions; white, spring
through summer flowers
....
Any
High
....
o Low
f~O M
~
O~
~;~
Q H
~
scarlet to purple fall foliage;
clusters of small, white, spring
flowers; small black fruit pro-
vides food for wildlife; tolerates
occasionally wet soil; does not
tolerate compacted soils
pink/white, winter through
spring flowers
Var
II
o
~
W
0..0
Any
High
;~ Q,
M
~
deciduous; multi-stemmed
shrub; purple, summer flowers
provides food for wildlife
.
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Acalypha hispida
Chenille Plant,
Red-hot Cattail
No ICI No C Yes No
Fast 3-4q
Soil pH, Txt ...0 ...0 0..0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6 Medium 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ . High
light/Best ~ :~ H ~ :~ L-N ~ :~ L-N ~ :~ L-N
Solt ~ ~ ~ ~
Wildlife
choose species based on site
conditions; flowers vary;
susceptible to freeze damage
upright, course-textured shrub;
red, showy flowers during
warm months droop in caHail-
like, pendant clusters up to
18 inches in length; susceptible
to pests especially in partial
shade
~ No 'C 10-11 No
G, H, S 6- 1 Oil' 10- 15q
Soil pH, Txt 0..0 0..0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ . High
light/Best ~ M ~ :~ L-N
Solt ~
Wildlife
choose species adapted to
region; do not confuse with
Oe/onix regia; flowers vary
red/pink, spring through fall
flowers
slender, red branches with
variegated foliage; goad speci-
men or accent shrub; red
berries; susceptible to pests
C
9-11
2-20il' 2-20q
Any
High
6
~
:~
~
also known as Carissa grandi-
flora; edible fruit; white,
fragrant year-round flowers
II
evergreen; fragrant, white
flowers
No
H
6
~
W
L-N
Medium
finely-divided leaves with
fern-like appearance; yellow,
year-round flowers
.
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.000
6~
~
0..0 0..0 ..00
6 Medium 6 6~ High
L-N ~ H ~ M ~:~ L-N
W ..." w
dark green, glossy leaves;
colorful year-round flowers
...0
6
Medium
:'6
:=...
~M
..."
also known as Berber;s fortune;;
yellow year-round flowers; well
suited as foundation plant on
north or east side of a building
small, yellow, year-round
flowers; susceptible to pests;
berries are poisonous
....
6
Medium
~
pink, spring through summer
flowers; red berries; sensitive to
pests
semi-evergreen shrub;
white/ pink/lavender/blue
flowers after summer rains;
prefers dry, hot sites; doesn't
like fertilizer or compost
...0
M
6~
~:~
L-N
Medium
white, showy flowers;
red/orange fall and winter
fruit; works well as freestanding
specimen plant; can be
espaliered or trained onto a
trellis; susceptible to pests and
diseases
II
evergreen; white/pink spring
flowers; leaf spotting may occur
0..0
6~
~:~
M
flowers vary; provides food for
wildlife; use disease-resistant
cvs., plant in full sun; suscepti-
ble to disease
No C
Soil pH, Txt Any S/L
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium 6 ~ High 6
light/Best ~ M ~;~ M ~ M
Solt
Wildlife W ~
No
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6 Medium
~ ;D U
~
W ~
flowers vary; susceptible to
pests and diseases
evergreen herb with aromatic
needle-like leaves; flowers vary
multi-branched shrub; rush-like
stems; red year-round flowers;
susceptible to pests
red, summer flowers; provides
food for wildlife
No No
G, H, S 2-49
Soil pH, T xt ...0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 High 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ High
light/Best ~ ;D M ~ ~ L-N ~ ;~ L-N
Salt ~ ~
Wildlife W ..."
small, white, spring through
summer flowers; small, block
berries in summer through fall
provide food for wildlife; long-
lived; difficult to transplant
deciduous; white, spring flow-
ers; check with your locol
Extension office before final
species selection
large leathery leaves are held
upright on stiff stalks;
orange/blue striking flowers;
susceptible to pests; tolerates
occasionally wet soil
II
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e" No
-
Fast 1-20q
0..0 Any
6 Medium
~ 0 L-N
evergreen; yellow, trumpet-
shaped, year-round flowers; all
plant parts are poisonous
Yes
Fast
0..0
0..0
...0
~
~
W
6~.
~ :~,:Q L-N
W ~
6~
_~,:QM
~
Medium
/'"":-, L - N
~
tender evergreen vine;
white/purple, summer through
winter flowers; larval food
plant far several swallowtail
bu"erflies
also known as Ampe/aster
carolinian us, Symphyotricum
caro/inianum; lavender, fall
flowers
fast-growing, high-climbing
vine; orange/red, trumpet-
shaped, spring flowers
...0 .... ..00 ...0
6 High ~ Medium 6~ Medium 6~
~ :~ M ~:~ 0 L-N ~:~ L-N -~ Q L-N
==
W ~
evergreen, shrubby vine;
pink/yellow/orange, year-
round flowers; large spines;
susceptible to freeze damage
brilliant orange, summer
flowers
white, spring flowers
dense grower; needs no
support to adhere to walls,
which may cause maintenance
problems; well suited for
groundcover, and hanging
basket use
II
light/Best
Salt
6~
~:~
~
Low
Wildlife
evergreen; yellow, tubular,
winter through spring flowers;
rapid growth when established;
pOisonous
[cJ
G,H,S Fast
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium
light/Best ~ :~ L-N
Solt ~
Wildlife
white, fragrant, year-round
flowers; dies bock in freeze,
may come back; susceptible to
pests; sprawling form
6
1/2 -11I 1-6q
Any
Medium
L-N
~M
distinctive, red leaf stems;
beautiful, thick, leathery
foliage; rapid growth rate,
watch for aggressive spread;
rich groundcover in the shade
6 Medium
~~ M
W~'"
dark green, smooth leaves;
red, spring through summer
flowers; fruit provides food for
wildlife; susceptible to freeze
damage
.
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Yes
6
6~
~:~
M
~ L-N
bold leaves provide dark green
mat of foliage; tenacious aerial
roots guide the plant up tree
trunks, walls, or trellises; rapid
growth rate; watch for aggres-
sive spread
flower color varies; can spread
easily; provides food for wildlife
No lfJ No
1-10q Fast 10-12q
0..0 Any 0..0 S/L
6 Medium 6 Low
~ L-N ~ M
twining evergreen vine;
many cultivars; pink/white,
year-round flowers
deciduous in North Flarida;
glossy, leathery textured leaves;
purple, summer through fall
flowers
II
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((:1 Yes No
Fast Fast
...0 .... 0... Any
~ Medium ~ 6 Medium
~:~ L-N ~ M ~ :~ L-N
~
W ~
evergreen; maintains an open,
fine-textured effect; 2 inch
wide, white, pink-throated,
summer through winter flowers
evergreen; pink/purple,
summer through fall flowers;
larval food plant af zebra
longwing, gulf fritillary, and
variegated fritillary butterflies;
tolerates occasionally wet soil
evergreen; purple, spring
flowers
0..0
....
0..0
Yes
6-12q
Any
Medium
Low
Medium
6
~
L-N
6~
~:~
~
6
~
:~
~
:~
~
L-N
L-N
perennial; yellow, summer
flowers
white, fragrant, showy, spring
flowers; susceptible to diseases
lavender, fragrant, spring
through summer flowers;
poi sonous parts
II
S 1 Oa- 11 No
Fast 1-40lf 1-40q
. . . 0 Any
6 ~ Medium
~ :~ L-N
1" flowers turn from white to
pink or pink to deep red,
blooms in spring through fall;
good for fences, pergolas, and
small buildings; susceptible to
pests
lOB
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
6
-~
Medium
~ L-N
~
purple/blue, spring through
summer flowers; spreads quick-
ly; many cultivars; susceptible to
disease
6
Medium
I=~ Q L-N
dark, green, glossy foliage;
brown flowers periodically
throughout the year; tolerates
deep shade better than most
plants
6
~
u
6
~
High
Medium
='6,
'=
white, spring flowers
yellow/orange, summer
through fall flowers; no nitrogen
fertilizer needed; may spread
aggressively; withstands foot
traffic; damaged by frost in
North and Central Florida
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No
6~
Low
H
=~~ U
shiny, leathery, dark green
leaves; pink/white, 5-petaled,
spring flowers; small, red,
winter fruit
Yes
6~ Medium 6 Medium 6
-~ Q L-N ='6, ~ L-N ~ ='6, L-N
'= ='
W
evergreen fern; good low-
maintenance groundcover;
susceptible to pests
dark green fern with delicate
appearance; fronds appear
reddish when young; choose
species based on growing
conditions
II
lavender, year-round flowers;
commonly used as groundcov-
er; larval food plant for com-
mon Buckeye
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S Yes C S No No
1-39 1-29
...0 SIC 0..0 Any 0..0 ...0
6 High 6 Medium 6 High 6
~ H ~ H ~ L-N ~ M
W
small, light green, succulent
leaves an bright red stems;
inconspicuous, pinkish, tubular
flowers; golden berries; will die
if overwatered
creates grey/green carpet-like
cover accented with sky blue,
spring through summer flowers
also known as Verbena
tampens;; purplish-pink/white,
summer flowers
...0
0..0
....
6~
~;~
M
6
~
6
Medium
~ L-N
'"
bold leaves provide dark green
mat of foliage; tenacious aerial
roots guide the plant up tree
trunks, walls, or trellises; rapid
growth rate; watch for oggres-
sive spread
flower color varies; can spread
easily; provides food for wildlife
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; must be in full sun
and well drained soils; used for
dune stabilization; susceptible
to diseases
II
distinctive, red leaf stems;
beautiful, thick, leathery
foliage; rapid growth rate,
watch for aggressive spread;
rich groundcover in the shade
....
H
6
~
M
'"
plants become thin in partial
shade; does not tolerate water-
logged conditions; susceptible
to pests and diseases
B
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Yes Yes
G, H, S Fast 1-49
Soil pH, Txt 0.00 ell
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6 Medium 6 Medium ~ Medium
light/Best ~ H ~ ;~ Q M ~ M ;~ [Q] l-N
Solt ~ ~
Wildlife W '( W
0..0
~ Medium 6 Medium 6 ~ Medium ~ Medium
;~ [Q] l-N ;~ [Q] M ~ ;~ l-N ;~ [Q] l-N
~ ~ ~ ~
W
white/pink/lavender, summer
through fall flowers; susceptible
to pests and diseases
purple, summer flowers; forms
a solid groundcover in a few
years; variegated cultivar is
damaged by frost; susceptible
to pests
perennial; pink powderpuff
flowers; FNGLA Plant of the
Year
G, H, S
Soil pH, T xt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
Wildlife
should not be confused with the
exotic invasive fern Nephrolepis
cordifolia; may spread beyond
small gardens and become
difficult to control; looks best in
full shade
white, summer flowers; dark
green, grass-like mounds;
tolerates some foot traffic
small, purplish-white flowers;
may appear dormant in
drought but comes back;
occasional mowing improves
appearance; excellent butterfly
attractor; can become weedy;
larval food plant
II
should not be confused with the
exotic invasive fern Nephro/epis
cordifolia; may spread beyond
small gardens and become
difficult to control; looks best in
full shade
Rumohra adiantiformis
leatherleaf Fern,
Seven Weeks Fern
No
evergreen fern with triangular-
shaped, dark glossy green
leaflets
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....
0...
....
Any
Medium
6
~
H
6~
ft ~ Q L-N
6~
~:~
small, pink/white, summer
flowers; spreads by under-
ground rhizomes; suited for
coastal areas
robust fern with graceful light
green foliage; may spread
beyond small gardens and
become difficult to control
small, dark green glossy leaves,
prominent light green veins;
tolerates foot traffic; spreads
aggressively; susceptible to
pests, diseases and cold
damage in low 20's
Yes [g No
Slow 5-8q
0..0 .... .... Any
6 ~ Medium 6 6 High
ft~ ,Q, L-N ft~ Q H ~ :'& Q H
~
W
oval or heart-shaped dark
green leaves; blue/purple/
lavender, summer flowers; good
for shaded, small gardens; does
not tolerate hot, dry conditions
small palm-like perennial plant;
Florida's only native cycad; sole
larval food plant for atala but-
terfly; susceptible to pests and
cold damage in the 20's
seeds and caudex poisonous;
freezes in central Florida and
can come back
II.
....
M
6~
~:~
~
Any
Medium
white, fragrant, showy, spring
flowers; susceptible to diseases
L-N
Soil pH, T xt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Solt
6~
~
Wildlife
perennial bunch grass; species
need vary; check with Extension
office before making final
selection; silver/white/pink,
fall flowers
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Solt
. Low
~ H
Wildlife
tough, scaly rhizomes and rigid
stems; few seeds are produced;
reproduction is mostly from
rhizomes
H
6~'
~=~
High
also known as Aristida
beyrichiana; tan, year-round
flowers; provides food and
cover for wildlife; depends on
regular summer burning to
stimulate flowering and seed
production
6~
~=~
tan, year-round flowers,
especially in fall
Yes
Fast
L-N
6~
~=~
scented leaves remain green
most of the year, turning dark
red in fall and winter; dies to
the ground in winter in North
Florida
L-N
6~
~=~
High
L-N
small, red/purple, year-round
flowers, especially in fall;
grows best in hot, dry sites
II
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II
u
~
~=~
W
L-N
fall color; tan/bronze, summer
through fall flowers; larval
food plant for Gemmed Satyr
butterfly
No
6~
~=~
Medium
H
dies to the ground in winter in
North Florida; excellent
specimen plant; susceptible to
pests and disease
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108
S
High
0.00
....
...0
0.. .
6
~
6
~
6
~
6~.
~
High
:~
:.=.-;
:~
:.=.-;
H
H
H
medium-sized bunchgrass;
lavender/blue stem; good for
restoring damaged wildland
recreation areas; provides food
and cover for wildlife
tan, summer flowers; FNGLA
plant of the Year
tan, summer flowers
pink, fall flowers; tolerates
extreme drought and flooding
...0 ...0 ...0 ...0
6 ~. High 6~ Medium 6~ Medium 6~. Medium
~ H ~~ M ~:~ M ~:~ M
W
yellow, spring through summer
flowers; used to control erosion;
good plant for detention ponds,
swales and canal banks
cream/ orange/ red/yellow,
spring through summer flowers;
tolerates flooding and standing
water; larval food plant for
Byssus Skipper butterfly
bamboo-like appearance;
large, linear leaves
marsh grass; fine-textured, wire
leaves form a fountain pattern;
tan, summer flowers; species
needs vary, choose based on
site conditions; check with your
local Extension office prior to
species selection
II
."k^"
Acoelorrhaphe wrightii
Paurotis Palm,
Saw Cabbage Palm
Yes
G,H,S slow 10-15t::>
Soil pH, lxt 0..0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ Medium
light/Best ~ ;~ M
Salt '-=<-
Wildlife
yellow/white, spring flowers;
forms dense clump so provide
plenty of space; susceptible to
manganese deficiency; tolerates
occasionally wet soil
No
Arenga engleri
Formosa Palm,
Dwarf Sugar Palm
Icl
Slow
0..0
Any
None
No
6
~
Any
High
;~ ~ M
:=c.; ~
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No
6
~
;~
'-=<-
M
6
~
~ L-N
~
~
stiff, waxy, blue- green fronds;
white/cream flowers
edible fruit used for jelly;
provides food for wildlife; looks
best in full sun; white flowers;
susceptible to pests; high wind
resistance
No
G, H, S Slow
Soil pH, lxt 0..0 Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 ~ Medium 6 Medium 6~ 6~
light/Best ~ L-N -~ Q u -~ Q L-N -~ Q L-N
Salt
Wildlife
white/cream, spring through
fall flowers; tolerates occasion-
ally wet soil; can cause skin
irritation
dark, olive-green leaves often
twist, giving a slight spiraling
appearance; red/orange/
green, spring flowers; red to
deep purple fruit
multi-stemmed clumps; light
green leaflets shaped like fish's
tail fin; caution - may be inva-
sive in South Florida
sharp thorns, plant away from
sidewalks
II
emergent growth on some
forms has a reddish color
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No
0..0 0..0
6 Medium 6
:~ ~ L-N ~ :~
'=- '=-
species needs vary, choose
based on conditions; cream,
spring through summer flowers;
good container plant; potential
skin irritant
clumping palm; yellow, summer
flowers; susceptible to pests;
very cold-hardy; petioles with
sharp teeth
Howea forsterana
Kentia Palm,
Sentry Palm
No No
.... 0..0
6 6 Medium
~ M ~ Q L-N
~
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens
Yellow Butterfly Palm
0..0
Any
High
M
6~
~:~
Q M
also known as Dypsis /utescens;
tolerates occasionally wet soil;
high wind resistance; suscepti-
ble to pest and K deficiency
Licua/a grandis
Ruffled Fan Palm, Vanuatu
Fan Palm, Licuala Palm
slow
0..0
6
Medium
I:~ Q L-N
~
white, summer flowers; suscepti- white, year-round flowers
ble to diseases
leaflets very sharp; can tolerate
adverse conditions for periods;
susceptible to pests
II
No
Yes
Fast
6-7~
Any
High
....
6
~
:~Q
H
distinctive, dark, blue-green,
drooping, deeply divided
palmate leaves; white, summer
flowers; Key Deer food source;
high wind resistance
No
No
0..0
6
~
High
:~
'=-
M
flowers vary; stately palm with
single trunk; susceptible to
scales; caution - L. chinensis
may be invasive in Central and
South Florida
(Q)4]
light/Best
Salt
6
~
:~~
:=.c.; ~
Wildlife
unique plume of long leaves
atop a single trunk with a bulb-
like base; susceptible to pests
and diseases
G, H,S
No
Soil pH, Txt
Sail Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
0..0
~
~:~
None
~ L-N
~
Wildlife
'"
noted for multiple, slim, ringed
grey trunks; soft green, feath-
ery, flat, broad leaves;
branched flower stalks with
white, summer flowers; bright
red, showy sprays of fruit
;;;';;\~:ll ~.
Pseudophoenix sargentii
Buccaneer Palm,
Sargent's Palm
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Ptychosperma elegans
Alexander Palm, Solitary
Palm, Solitaire Palm
No S 10a-11 Yes S I lOa- 11 No
slow 10-40iJ 10-20q Slow 15-25iJ 6-10q
.... Any 0..0 S/L
6 ~ High 6 High ~ High
~:~ M ~ M ~ L-N
M
yellow, summer flowers;
phoenix canariensis, Phoenix
dactylifera and phoenix
roebelinii have high wind
resistonce; provides food for
wildlife
6
~~
High
M
feather-leafed with symmetrical,
smooth, flared trunk; creamy
white, summer flowers
yellow, summer flowers;
produces grape-sized red fruit;
endangered in Florida
~
~~
Medium
~ L-N
~
'"
red, summer flowers; yellowish
fruit provides food for wildlife
II
'"
white, summer flowers; resistant
to lethal yellowing; high wind
resistance; caution - may be
invasive in South and Central
Florida
Yes
C 9- 11 No
Slow 7-14iJ 10-15q
o . . 0 S/L
6 Medium
:~ ~ L-N
'"
forms clumps of bamboo-like
stalks topped with very dark
green fan-shaped leaves;
susceptible to pests and disease
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.CI
-
No
0..0
o ~ Medium
:~W M
:=c.; ~
'tf
slender stems; drooping leaf
segments; forms densely packed
clumps; susceptible to pests
....
o~.
~:~ H
W 'tf
Florida state tree; white, sum-
mer flowers; susceptible to
some pests and disease; high
wind resistance; older palms
transplant easily; provides food
and cover for wildlife
-~
......
Roystonea regia
Royal Palm
-
Yes Lf.,/
15-25q Slow
...0 Any ....
0 ~ Medium 0 High
~ :~ M ~ :~ M
:=c.; :=c.;
tall, smooth, cement gray trunk;
beautiful, broad, dense crown
of soft, gently drooping, feath-
ery fronds; fragrant, yellow,
summer flowers; high wind
resistance
small, white, spring through
summer flowers; small, black
berries in summer through fall
provide food for wildlife; long-
lived; difficult to transplant
Yes
OJi'. .
Thrinax morrisii
Brittle Thatch Palm,
Key Thatch Palm
lob-11
Slow 15- 20iJ
Yes
6-10q
Any
High
....
....
o
~:~Q H
W 'tf
o~
~:~
W
'tf
flammable - in wildfire prone
areas, plant minimum 30' from
buildings; yellow/white, spring
flowers; difficult to transplant;
grows on first dune; round
black fruits provide food for
wildlife
green and silver fronds; small,
white, summer flowers; tolerates
occasionally wet soil; high wind
resistance
II
Yes
....
o~
_~QM
W
blueish green, fan shaped leaves;
small, white flowers; black berries
provides food for wildlife in fall;
difficult to transplant; good
understory plant; prefers moist
soils but tolerates drier conditions
after establishment
H
Yes
Slow
.... S
~ High
~ :~ H
:=c.;
'tf
white; summer flowers; good
palm for many landscapes due
to small size; high wind resist-
ance
OB
1-0-B
Soil pH, Txt Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium 6 ~
Light/Best ~ Q M ~ ;~ Q M
Solt '="-
6
~
;~
'="-
M
6
~~Q
W
H
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Yes
Wildlife
'(
dense, brown, hair-like fibers that
resemble burlap wrapping; 3-foot
wide, fan-shaped fronds; incon-
spicuous, fragrant, summer flow-
ers; good palm for shaded land-
scapes; tolerates occasional sun;
susceptible to pests and disease
too tall for most home land-
scapes; caution - may be
invasive in South Florida
pale green, arching fronds with
leaflets radiating fram leaf
stem, giving appearance of
bottlebrush or foxtail; white,
spring flowers; colorful clusters
of red to orange/red fruit
small palm-like perennial plant;
Florida's only native cycad; sole
larval food plant for atala hair-
streok butterfly; susceptible to
pests and cold damage in the
20's
[cl No
G, H,S Slow 5-89
Soil pH, Txt ... . Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 High
Light/Best ~ ;~ ~ H
Salt '="-
Wildlife
seeds and caudex poisonous;
freezes in central Florida and
can come back
II
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-- ....,~?' '
Acrostichum danaeifolium
Leather Fern
No
slow
...0 0.00 ..00
~ . low 6 ~ Low .
- :~~ M :~ ~ L-N -~
~
0..0
6~
-~
Low
Medium
~ L-N
~
L-N
large fern; good for wet sites in
shaded landscape; prolonged
sunlight, especially in the sum-
mer, can burn foliage
fine-textured, delicate, fern with
light grey-green, soft foliage;
tolerates occasionally wet soil
hardy fern; forms underground
stems, persisting for many
years, and spreads widely
(forms dense clumps); grows in
full sun if in moist conditions
evergreen fern; good low-
maintenance groundcover;
susceptible to pests
Dicksonia antarctica
Tasmanian Tree Fern,
Australian Tree Fern
Klls
Slow
9-11 No
20-50iJ 6- 20c:>
S/L
Yes
slow
..00 loam ..00 0.00
6 ~ Low 6 Medium ~ Medium
:~ ~ U :~ ~ L-N :~ ~ L-N
~ ~ ~
..00
6
Low
~ L-N
does not tolerate prolonged
freezing or direct sun
requires moist soil; do not let
dry out between waterings
dark green fern with delicate
appearance; fronds appear
reddish when young; choose
species based on growing
conditions
should not be confused with the
exotic invasive fern Nephro/epis
cordifo/ia; may spread beyond
small gardens and become dif-
ficult to control; looks best in full
shade
II
@,
m
Scientific
Common
Reg/Native
G, H, S
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Solt
Wildlife
0.00
~ Medium
:~ ~ L-N
should not be confused with the
exotic invasive fern Nephro/epis
cordifo/ia; may spread beyond
small gardens and become
difficult to control; looks best in
full shade
-0-8
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Yes
..00
Loam
...0
..00
~. Low
f~ Q L-N
~. Low
f~ Q L-N
~
-~
Medium
L-N
deciduous, shrub-like fern;
good plant for detention ponds,
swales and canal banks
requires night temperature of
450 F to stay green; susceptible
to pests; may be less attractive
during winter dormancy
fronds triangular in outline
Scientific
Common
Rumohra adiantiformis
Leatherleaf Fern,
Seven Weeks Fern
Reg/Native No Yes
G, H,S Slow
Soil pH, Txt 0..0 0..0 0...
Soil Mst, Drgt ~ Medium 6 Low 6 ~ Medium
light/Best :~ ~ L-N ~ Q L-N - ~ Q L-N
Salt ~
Wildlife
evergreen fern with
triangular-shaped, dark
glossy green leaflets
also known as A/sophi/a
cooperi; single-trunked, giant
fern
robust fern with graceful light
green foliage; may spread
beyond small gardens and
become difficult ta control
II
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...0
ell
6
-~
Medium
fine-textured, ground-hugging;
forms a thick canopy of tiny,
serrated leaves with bright red
flowers
...0
0.00 0..0 s
6 ~ low 6 Medium
;D ~ l-N ~ ;~ M
~ ~
u
~. low
_ ;~~ M
large fern; good for wet sites in
shaded landscape; prolonged
sunlight, especially in the sum-
mer, can burn foliage
fine-textured, delicate, fern with
light grey-green, soft foliage;
tolerates occasionally wet soil
purple/white, summer flowers;
deciduous
No
0..0 0..0 0... Any 0..0
6 6 Medium 6 High 6~ low
~ H -~ ,Q l-N ~ ;D H ~;~ M
~
dramatic foliage and form;
evergreen, silver/gray to
blue-green foliage; showy,
green-brown fruit; sharp spines;
choose species adapted to
climate
purple/blue, spring through
summer flowers; spreads
quickly; many cultivars;
susceptible to disease
species needs vary, choose
based on conditions; flowers
vary; injured by frost in extreme
North Florida; susceptible to
caterpillars; size of plant
depends on species selection
green and yellow variegated
leaves; white, fragrant flowers
borne in drooping clusters; will
not flower if freezes back
II
108
Soil pH, Txt Any
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium 6
light/Best ;~ ~ L-N ~ U
Salt c.=.:..
Wildlife
6~'
I_I ;~ rQ L-N
W~
grows very slowly in North
Florida; flowers vary, have a
foul odor; size of plant depends
on species selection
white and/or blue, summer
flowers; can be grown as an
annual but survives winters in
zones 9 and 10
species needs vary, choose
based on conditions; red/
yellow flowers; self-seeds each
year; sap may irritate;
susceptible to pests and
diseases; provides food for
butterflies
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 Medium 6 Low 6
light/Best ~ Q L-N ~ L-N ~ ;~
Salt c.=.:..
Wildlife
dark, green foliage with glossy,
coarse-texture; brown flowers;
tolerates deep shade better than
most plants
flowers vary; annual in North
and Central regions; susceptible
to pests and diseases
yellow, spring through fall
flowers
II
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6~
~;~
W
Medium
~ L-N
~
deciduous; species needs vary,
choose based on conditions;
oval, edible fruits with a sweet,
rich taste, ripen to a brown/
black, wrinkled texture; flowers
vary; provides food for zebra
swallowtail butterfly
Yes
M
.
-~
L-N
Low
hardy fern; forms underground
stems, persisting for many
years, and spreads widely
(forms dense clumps); grows in
full sun if in moist conditions
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0..0 s .... 0..0 Any ...0
6 6 Medium 6 Medium ~ .
ft~ Q L-N ~ ;'0-, U ft ;'0-, lQ L-N ~;~ L-N
~ ~
W
flowers, light, region vary;
choose species for climate; don't
exchange bromeliads from
areas with Mexican bromeliad
weevil; air circulation prevents
scale/mealybugs; cold/
overwatering causes crown rot
orange/yellow, spring through
summer flowers; clumping;
best used as groundcover or
container plant
good container plant; attractive
foliage (red/rose/pink/white/
silver/bronze/green); leaves
die back in the fall; goes
dormant; susceptible to pests
and diseases
many cultivars; attractive
foliage; summer flowers vary
0..0 0..0 ..00 0..0
~ 6 6 6 Low
~;~ M ~ H ~ ;'0-, M ft~ Q L-N
~
W -."
white/pink/purple, year-round
flowers; watch for micronutrient
deficiencies/disease with too
much moisture; caution - may
be invasive in South Florida
blue, year-round flowers; used
in beach landscaping
Florida's state wildflower;
orange/yellow, summer
flowers; may be annual or
short-lived perennial,
depending on species
.
white, fragrant, summer
through fall flowers
00
No
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Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6 ~ Medium 6 6 ~
light/Best ~ ;~ M ~ L-N ~ ;~ M ~ L-N
Salt := :=
Wildlife W
many cultivars; fragrant,
spidery, year-round flowers
vary; poisonous; susceptible to
pests and diseases
species needs vary, choose
based on conditions; flowers
vary; can be used as annual in
North and Central region
purple/white/pink, year-round
flowers; susceptible to pests,
diseases, and freezes
pink/yellow, spring flowers
Dicksonia antarctica
Tasmanian Tree Fern,
Australian Tree Fern
Var.
K]ls
Slow
9-11 No
to 50il' 6-209
S/L
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
6
~
6
Low
No
slow
Loam
6~ Low 6~ . Medium
;~ ~ U ~;~ L-N
:=
..00
;~
:=
u
W L-N
~
Wildlife
blue/yellow flowers; strappy
leaves
does not tolerate prolonged
freezing or direct sun
requires moist soil; do not let
dry out between waterings
also known as Moraea
iridoides and Moraea vegeta,
previously Dietes vegata; 1-2"
white/yellow/blue, spring
through summer flowers
II
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..00 0..0 0... 0..0
6 Medium 6 6 ~ High 6 ~
:~ ~ L-N ~ :~ L-N ~ Q L-N ~:~ M
:=c.; :=c.;
W W ~ "!
dark green fern with delicate
appearance; fronds appear
reddish when young; choose
species based on growing
conditions
lavender, year-round flowers;
commonly used as groundcover
purple, spring through summer
flowers; tolerates occasionally
wet soil
species needs vary, choose
based on conditions; reseeds
readily; resprouts from base in
spring; flowers vary
~ No
]-2q Fast
0..0 Any .... 0..0 0..0
6 Medium 6~ 6 High 6
~ H ~ M ~ M ~ :~ L-N
:=c.;
W W W
yellow / orange/ red, summer
flowers; rounded clumps of soft,
hairy, divided leaves
fine-textured, vase-shaped;
pink/white, spring through fall
flowers on wand-like stalks
creates grey/green carpet-like
cover accented with sky blue,
spring through summer flowers
showy clusters of yellow disk
shaped, year-round flowers;
grows in soils with poor nutrient
content; provides food for but-
terflies
II
IO.IJ
L-N
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.
Soil pH, lxt S/L
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6 Medium 6 ~ Medium 6 ~ Low
light/Best ~ M ~ Q u ~ u ~;~ ~ M
Salt
Wildlife
yellow / oronge/ red, summer
flowers; roots moy rot from
overwotering
crimson/yellow-oronge, spring
through summer flowers; grows
well on trellises
also known as Scadoxus mu/ti-
florus; red, summer flowers
white/yellow/red, spring
flowers; thrives in boggy soils
Yes
Fast
Soil pH, lxt
Sail Mst, Drgt 6 ~. 6 High 6 None 6
light/Best ~ H ~ H -~ L-N ~ ;~
Salt :=.:..
Wildlife W ..." w ..." w
Yes
..."
perennial, yellow/brown, fall
flowers
perennial; yellow/purple,
year-round flowers; good
groundcover for beaches and
dune stabilization; develops
fungus if planted in wet areas
year-round flowers vary
evergreen; white, year-round
flowers; seedlings volunteer
readily
II
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...0
0..0
...0
No
lq
o . . 0 Any
6 High
f~ Q L-N
W
Medium
Medium
6
-~
H
6
-~
6
~
W
:~
~
L-N
H
~
large red/white, spring flowers
in clusters of two to five; semi-
evergreen
region depends on species -
choose species adapted to your
area; white/yellow, spring
through fall flowers
annual with brilliantly marked
foliage and ability to tolerate
great amounts of sun; flowers
vary
many cultivars; summer flowers
vary; susceptible to diseases
..00
..00
...0 ...0
. Medium . Low
~ :~ L-N :~ ~ L-N
~ :=
W ~ 'rf ~
white, summer flowers; evergreen; summer through fall
susceptible to pests and freezes flowers vary; susceptible to
pests, diseases, and freezes
~.
-~
. low
Medium
~
:~
~
L-N
L-N
purple, spring flowers; flowers
best in full sun; good for rain
gardens
textured, light-green foliage
emerging in dense clumps;
lavender, spring flowers; good
for rain gardens
II
lOB
No
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana
Kalanchoe,
Madagascar widow's Thrill
No
Slow lh-lc:>
e/l 0..0 S/l
6 ~ Medium 6 High
~ Q l-N -~ M
G, H, S Fast
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 low
light/Best ~ l-N
Salt
Wildlife
orange; summer flowers
intricate faliage patterns in
colors of burgundy and bronze;
small, four-petaled, violet to
purple flowers
Lg
G, H, S Fast
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6
light/Best ~ ;~ Q H
Salt '="-
Wildlife W ~
orange/red, summer through
winter flowers
6~
~;~
W
Medium
lavender/pink/white, summer
through fall flowers
succulent; dark green with
scallop edged leaves; pink/
red/yellow, winter through
spring flowers
l-N
6
~
;~ /":'\ M
'="- ~
Medium
purple, summer flowers; forms
a solid groundcover in a few
years; variegated cultivar is
damaged by frost; susceptible
to pests
II
4.
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.
Lantana involucrata
Wild Sage,
Buttonsage
KJ-s
Fast
Yes
1-5c:>
S/l
...0
6~
~
W
Medium
H
"f
white, year-round flowers
No
6~
~
Any
Medium
l-N
flower after heavy summer
rains; yellow/red/pink, early
fall flowers
.
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Fast
.... Any 0..0
. Low ~ Low
~ :'6 L-N ~ Q L-N
~
edible fruit; showy purple or
orange flowers; needs regular
watering; susceptible to
disease, pests, and frost
clumping herbaceous perennial;
white/blue, spring through fall
flowers
..00
0..0
~. Low
f~ Q L-N
6
~
Low
:'6
~
requires night temperature of
450 F to stay green; susceptible
to pests; may be less attractive
during winter dormancy
yellow, spring through fall
flowers
0..0
6
~
W
Medium
:'6
~
L-N
~
herbaceous perennial; red, fall
through winter flowers
0..0
L-N
6
~
W
~
Medium
:'6
:=.:..
many cultivors;
red/pink/white/lilac, summer
flowers; susceptible to freeze
damage
II
lOB
Yes
..00
~. Low
f~ Q L-N
deciduous, shrub-like fern;
good plant for retention ponds,
swales and conal bonks
M
0..0
6 ~. Medium
_ :~ ~ L-N
select species based on site
conditions; check with your
local Extension office before
final species selection
L-N
L-N
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L-N
No rG
Fast
6 ~ Medium 6
-~ L-N ~
W
Yes
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
Light/Best
Salt
~
~:~
~
-~
Medium
Wildlife
purple, summer flowers
flowers vary; 'Mona lavender'
was FNGLA plant of the Year in
2004
blue/white, year-round flowers;
susceptible to pests and freezes
fronds triangular in outline
Yes
Soil pH, Txt S/L
Soil Mst, Drgt ~ Low 6 6 ~ Medium ~ Medium
Light/Best ~ :~ L-N ~ :~ L-N ~ L-N ~ :~ L-N
Salt :=.-; :=.-; :=.-;
Wildlife W -." w -." w ~
showy, daisy-like flower; large, yellow-orange to red- flowers vary blue, spring flowers
produces masses of golden dish-orange, summer flowers;
color all summer does not tolerate prolonged,
wet weather
II
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0..0 ...0 s 0..0 0..0
~ Low 6 ~ . High 6 Low 6 Low
~;~ L-N ~;~ H ~ Q L-N ~ ;~ M
:=c..
W ~
purple, summer flowers; many
cultivars; 'Hurricane louise' was
FNGLA plant of the Year in
2005; susceptible to pests and
diseases
yellow, summer through fall
flowers; some species form
large colonies; Solidago oduro
is the Florida native
also known as Alsophila
cooperi; single-trunked, giant
fern
red, spring through summer
flowers
6~
~;~
W
..00 0..0 ...0
Medium 6 6 High 6 Medium
M ~ L-N ~ ;~ L-N ~ ;~ M
:=c.. ~
W
0..0
flowers vary
blue/white, summer flowers;
many cultivars
lavender, spring through fall
flowers; plant has strang garlic
scent
white/yellaw/pink/red, spring
through fall flowers; susceptible
to pests
II
DB
l(Q)~
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.
No
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
6~
~
Any
Medium
M
Wildlife
red, fragrant, fall flowers;
tolerates occasionally wet soil
II
..
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.
0..0
6
~
Low
:'&
~
many cultivars; purple/white,
year-round flowers
0..0
6
-
Medium
:'& W L-N
~~
good container plant; attractive
foliage (red/rose/pink/white/
silver/bronze/green); leaves
die back in the fall; goes
dormant; susceptible to pests
and diseases
0..0
0..0
0..0
L-N
6
~
6
~
6
Low
~
L-N
M
u
'(
many cultivars; attractive
foliage; inconspicuous flowers
white and/or blue, summer
flowers
flowers vary; annual in North
and Central regions; susceptible
to pests and diseases
0..0
0..0
0..0
6
~
~
~:~
6
~
L-N
High
Low
Low
:'&
~
M
M
yellow/orange, winter through
spring flowers
white/pink/purple, year-round
flowers; susceptible to
micronutrient deficiencies/
disease with too much moisture;
caution - may be invasive in
South Florida
many cultivars; summer flowers
vary
II
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt 6 6
light/Best ~ :'& M ~ M
Salt ~
Wildlife W '(
Florida's state wildflower;
orange/yellow, summer flow-
ers; may be annual or short-
lived perennial, depending on
species
Soil pH, Txt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
. Low
:~ ~ L-N
~
Wildlife
evergreen; summer through fall
flowers vary; susceptible to
pests, diseases, and freezes
6
None
f~,Q L-N
W
yellow/orange/red, summer
flowers; roots may rot from
overwatering
annual with brilliantly marked
foliage and ability to tolerate
great amounts of sun; flowers
vary
No
Fast
6
~
L-N
6
-~
Medium
Low
orange; summer flowers
purple/white/pink, winter
flowers; tolerates light frost
II
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No
.
~
W
:'&
~
L-N
~
'(
white, summer flowers;
susceptible to pests and freezes
L-N
6
~
W
~
Medium
:'&
~
H
pink, summer through fall
flowers
-.
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'.
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..
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..
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,@~
Yes
0..0 0..0 0..0 0..0 S/L
6 Low 6 6 Low ~ Low
~ :'& L-N ~ :'& M ~ :'& M ~:~ L-N
~ ~ ~
W ~ W '( W '(
yellow, spring through fall
flowers
many cultivars; red/pink/
white/lilac, summer flowers;
susceptible to freeze damage
many flower colors, in fall
through spring; can be grown
as perennial in South Florida;
susceptible to pests and
d i sea ses
showy, daisy-like flower;
produces masses of golden
color all summer
0..0
0..0
Medium 6
L-N ~ :'& U
~
W
0..0 0..0
6 Medium ~ Low
~ :'& L-N ~:~ L-N
~
W '(
6
~
W
large, yellow-orange to red-
dish-orange, summer flowers;
does not tolerate prolonged,
wet weather
purple, summer flowers; many flowers vary
cultivars; 'Hurricane Louise' was
FNGLA plant of the Year in
2005; susceptible to pests and
diseases
red/orange, summer flowers
II
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No
Soil pH, T xt
Soil Mst, Drgt
light/Best
Salt
6~ Low
I_I :~ G L-N
~
6~
~:~
6
-~
Low
Low
6
~
W
L-N
L-N
L-N
~
'(
Wildlife
lavender/pi nk/blue/ wh ite,
spring through fall flowers;
susceptible to pests
cold hardy annual
many cultivars; year-round
flowers vary; needs regular
watering in warm weather
many varieties with wide range
of flower colors and sizes, year-
round flowering; susceptible to
pests and diseases
II
..
MOWING HT: Mowing turf below the recommended height can stress the grass and subject it to invasion by weeds.
LEAF: Fine, Medium, Coarse, Fine-Medium, Coarse-Medium (Relative measure of leaf blade width. Texture is merely a visual
preference.)
(
LEGEND FOR TURFGRASS
.
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108
MAINT. LEVEL: Low, Medium, High, Medium-High (Amount of fertilization, irrigation, and mowing required.)
SOIL pH: Any, Acid (Ideal soil pH and texture for healthy turf.)
DROUGHT TOLERANCE: Low, Medium, High (Measure of how well the turf will survive extended dry periods without irriga-
tion or rainfall after it has been properly established.)
SALT: Low, Medium, High, None (Ability to thrive when subjected to salt stress from irrigation water, saltwater intrusion, or
salt spray from the ocean.)
SHADE: Low, Medium, High (Ability to thrive when exposed to shade.)
ESTABliSHMENT METHODS: Sod, Sprigs, Plugs, Seed (A quality lawn can be established by any method listed if the site is
properly prepared and maintained.)
~w Ht/Leaf/~ntLv F-M M-H 1.5-2 in. M Low 3-4 in. CoM Low
Soil pH/Drgt/Slt/Sh Any M L Acid Medium L M Acid High N L
Estab. ~ethods Sod, sprigs, plugs, some seed Sod, sprigs, plugs, seed Sod, seed
adapted to entire state; medium wear adapted to North Florida and the adapted to entire state; low wear
tolerance; low nematode tolerance Panhandle; low wear tolerance; low tolerance; high nematode tolerance
nematode tolerance
.
Cynodon dacly/on
Bermudagrass
Eremoch/oa ophiuroides
Centipedegrass
Scientific
Common
Scientific
Common
. /C
, ,,'"
:R:
Stenotaphrum secundatum
St. Augustinegrass
'Standard height cvs.'
3.5-4 in. CoM Medium
COM
Medium
~w Ht/Leaf/~nt Lv
Soil pH/Drgt/Slt/Sh Any
Low
M
Low
M V
Any
Estab. ~ethods
Sod, sprigs, plugs
adapted to entire state; low wear tol-
erance; medium nematode tolerance;
shade tolerance varies depending on
cultivar selection
Sod, sprigs, plugs
adapted to entire state; low wear
tolerance; medium nematode
tolerance; shade tolerance varies
depending on cultivar selection
II
Paspa/um notatum
Bahiagrass
Zoysia japonica
Zoysiagrass
V
High
M V
Sod, sprigs, plugs
adapted to entire state; medium wear
tolerance; low nematode tolerance;
shade tolerance varies depending on
cu Itivar selection
F-M
mImmml_
REFERENCES AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Black, R.j. and E.F. Gilman, 2004. Landscape Plants for tile
Gulf and Soutll Atlantic Coasts, University Press of Florida,
Gainesville. 230 pp.
Broschat, T.K. and A,W. Meerow, 1999. Betrocks Reference Guide to
Floridas Landscape Plants. Betrock Information Systems, Inc.,
U.s.A. 428 pp.
Dehgan, B. 1998. Landscape Plants for Subtropical Climates,
University Press of Florida, Gainesville. 638 pp
Floridata Plant Profiles. 2005. http://Floridata.com
Florida Department of Environmental Protection. 2008. Florida
Green Industries Best Management Practices for Protection of Water
Resources in Florida.
Florida Department of Environmental Protection and University of
Florida. 2009. Florida-friendly Landscape Guidance Models for
Ordinances, Covenants, and Restrictions.
Florida Department of Environmental Protection and University of
Florida. 2009. Florida Yards and Neigllbor/lOods Handbook.
Haehle, R.G. and j. 13rookwell. 2004. Native Florida Plants. Taylor
Trade Publishing, New York. 400 pp.
Meerow, A.W. 1999. Betrocks Guide to Landscape Palms. Betrock
Information Systems, Hollywood, FL. 138 pp.
Nelson, G. 2003. Floridas Best Native Landscape Plants. University
Press of Florida, Gainesville. 411 pp.
Osorio, R. 2001. A Gardeners Guide to Floridas Native Plants,
University Press of Florida, Gainesville. 345 pp.
USDA, NRCS. 2005. Tile Plants Database, Version 3.5
Chttp://plants.usda.gov). Data compiled from various sources by
Mark W. Skinner. National Plant Data Center, Baton Rouge LA
70874-4490 USA.
Watkins, j., T.j. Sheehan, and R.j. Black. 2005. Florida Landscape
Plants, Native and Exotic, 2nd Ed. University Press of Florida,
Gainesville. 468 pp.
University of Florida Environmental Horticulture Department,
Woody Ornamental Landscape pages by Ed Gilman. 2009.
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody.html
PHOTO CREDITS
Bowden, Robert.
Small Tr=: Arellga ellgleri, Magllolia figo, prullUS call1pmwlata, Tctbebuia aurea.
Large Shrubs: Agarista popu/ifolia, Agave spp" Aloysia virgala, Bar/eria llIicans,
Callicarpa alllericalla, CeSln11ll auralltiaculll, Erythrilla herbacea, Galphilllia glauca,
Gardellia jaslllilloides, Malvaviscus arboreus, Philodelldron selloulll, PsycllOlria nervosa,
Rhododendroll cvs" Saballllinor, Severillia buxifolia, Tabemaelllolllana divaricata,
Thunbergia erecta, Vibunlum suspensum.
Small Shrubs: Aloe spp., Malpighia coccigera, Pyracanlha coccinea, Sabal elollia,
Spiraea spp.
Vines: Aster carolinianus, Aristolochia spp., Bignonia caprealala, Hedera canariensis,
Hedera helix, Pelraea vo/ubilis, 'fj-achelospennulll jaslllinoides, Wisleria frutescens,
Groundcovers: Anthericllln sanderii, Arachis glabrala, Evolvu/us glollleratus, Hedera
canariellsis, Hedera helix, jUllipenlS collferta, Trachelosperllllllll asiaticulll,
Trachelosperlllulll jaslllinoides, Zalllia pUlllila,
. FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING'" GUIDE TO PLANT SELECTION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN. 2010
Grasses: Chaslllallthiulll latifoliulll, PallicUIll virgatulll, Paspallllll quadrifariulll,
Thysenolallea llIaxillla, Tripsaculll dactyloides.
Palms and Palm-Like Plants: Arellga engleri, Challlaedorea spp., Licuala gralldis,
ptychospcnna llIacarlhurii, RI"'pis excelsa, Rhapis hUlllilis, Sabal elollia, Saballllillor,
Zamia pumila.
Perennials: Agave spp., Aloe spp., Alpillia spp" Angelollia allgustifolia, Belalllcallda chi-
Ilellsis, Brollleliaceae genera, Bulbille fmtescells, Crossalldra spp., Curcullla spp.,
Diallella spp., Dieles iridoides, Echillacea purpurea, Evolvu/us glollleralus, Gaura lilld-
heillleri, Gloriosa spp" Hedychiulll spp" Heliallthus debilis, Hippeastmlll spp" Iris
hexagolla, justicia spicigera, Kaelllpferia spp., Lcollotis leollums, Pachystachys IUlea,
Plectrallllws spp" Rudbechia hirla, Solenostellloll scutlellaroides, Slokesia laevis,
Zephyralllhes spp.
Annuals: AllIaranthus spp" Allgelollia allgustifolia, Calelldula spp.,justicia spicigera,
Pacllystachys lUlea, Petullia Xhybrida, Rudbeckia hirta, Solenoslellloll scullellaroides,
Torelliafoumieri, Viola spp" Zillllia hybrids.
.'
--
.
.-
.
.
Brown, Stephen.
Small Trees: Baaharis halilllifolia, Sophora lolllelllosa.
Large Shruhs: Acrostichllln dallaeifoliulll, Allalllanda Ilerifolia, Baccharis hallllifo/ia,
jasminum nitidum.
Groundcovcrs: EnlOdea liltoralis, Scacvola plumieri
Grasses: CYlllbopogOIl citralUs.
Ferns: Acrostichum dallaeifolium, Blcclmwl1 serrulatwn.
Perennials: Acrostichulll dallaeifoliulll, Blechllllln sermlalUIll, Heliolropiulll allgiosper-
mum, Hymcnocallis spp.
.
.
.
.
Caldwell, Doug.
Medium Trees: Elaeocarpus decipells.
.
Davis, Jim.
Perennials: EUlYops spp,
.
Delvalle, Terry.
Grasses: SchiZQchyriwn scoparium.
.
Dutr, Audrey.
Medium Tr~: Avicennia genninans.
Ferns: Sphaeropteris cooperi,
.
Friday, Theresa.
Perennials: Neomarica gracilis.
.
Gelmis, Georgia.
Large Trees: Quercus vifginiana.
Palms and Palm-Like Plants: Trachycarpus fortunei.
Perennials: Sphaeropleris cooperi
.
.
Gillman, Ed.
Large Trees: Acer barbatulll, Acer rubnun, Betula Iligra, Bucida buceras, Carya spp.,
Chorisia spcciosa, Conocarplls erectus, Ficus aurea, Fraxillus americana, Fraxinus car-
oliniana, Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Gordoni(~ lasianthus, Halesia carolina, Juniperus vir-
gillialla, Liquidambar styracijlua, Liriodendroll wlipifera, litchi chillellsis. Lysiloma
latisiliquullI, Magnolia gralldifJora, Magllolia virginialla, Nyssa sylvalica, Persea ameri-
calla, Pill us elausa, Pinus clliotlii var delisa, Pinus glabra, Pinus paluslris, Pillus taeda,
Piscidia piscipula, Platanus occidentalis, Quercus acurissima, Quercus alba, Quercus aus-
lrina, Quercus falcala, Quercus michauxii, Quercus nuttallii, Quercus shumardii,
Simarouba glmlCa, Swietenia mahagoni, Taxodiwn spp., Ulmus alata, Ulmus americana,
Ulmus crassifolia, Ulmus parvifolia,
Medium Trees: Burscra simaruba, Caesalpinia spp, Carpentaria acwninala, Carpinus
camliniana, Cassia fislula, Cercis canadensis, Chrysophyllum oliviforllle, Cocoloba diver-
sifolia, Cordia sebestena, Cralaegus spp., CyprrsSlls arizonica var. arizollica, Ficus cilri-
folia, /llex Xatlenuala, lIex cassille, lIex opaca, lIex rotullda,jacaranda llIilllosifolia,
junipen" silicicola, Lagerstroemia illdica, Ostrya virginialla, Persea borbonia,
Podoc(//pus gmcilior, Quercus lyrata, Rhizophora mallgle, Tabehuia eluysotricha,
Tabebuia heterophylla, Tabebuia impetigillosa.
Small Trees: Acacia farnesialla, Aesculus pavia, Amlia spinosa, Ardisia escallonoides,
Butia capitata, Callistemoll spp" Call1elliajapollica, Camellia sasallqua, Canella winler-
alia, Capparis cYllophallophora, Cephalallthus occidelltalis, Comus jlorida, Eriobollya
japonica, Eugellia spp., Forestiera segregata, lIex X'Nellie R. Stevens', Ilex corn uta, lIex
decidua, Ilex vomilOria, Jatropha illlegerrima, Ligustrulll japolliculll, Magnolia Xsoulall-
giana, Musa spp., Myrcianthes fragralls, My"ica arifera, Olea europa, Osmallthus amer-
icaltus, Parllinsonia aculeata, Plwneria n~bra, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pnmus angusti-
folia, Pm",1S ulllbellata, Quercus gemillata, Raphiolepis spp., Selllla polyphylla,
Sideroxylon spp" Tecollla stans, Vibumulll obovalllln, Vibumum odoratissilllum,
Vibumulll odoralissiulllu var awabuhi, Vibumum rufidulum,
Large Shrubs: Ahelia Xgrandijlora, Acacia famesia, Acca sellowiana, Aralia spillosa,
Ardisia escallollioides, Asimina spp., Brugmansia Xcandida, Brunfelsia grandifJora,
Buddleia lilldleyalla, Callialldra haematocephala, Camellia japollica, Call1ellia sasallqua,
.
.
.
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.J
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.
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.
.
.
Cal'paris cynophal1opllOra, Carissa macmcarpa, Ccphalanllllls occiclnHalis,
Ccphalotaxus harringtonia, Chrysobalanus icaro, Cit1wrcxyluHl spinOSHlH, Co((oloba
uvifcra, Cocculus laurifolius, Codiarum variegalwn, CmlOcarpus frce/us, Cordylinc spp.,
Crataeglls spp., Duranta crceta, Eugenia spp., Falsia japollica, Forcslicra segrcgala,
Halesia diplera, Hamamelis virgillialla, Hydrallgea macmphyl/a, Hydrallgea qllercifolia,
Ilex cornura, Ilex \lomiloria, Ilea virginica,jalmplw intcgcrrima.]unipents cl1incnsis,
Ligustnul1 japonicum, Loropclalum chillfllse, Mahonia beald, f..Jun)'Cl paniculala, Musa
5pp., l\tyn::ianthcs Jragrans, Myrica cerifcra, Nerittm oleander; Osman/hus CllJIiTkmlllS,
Philodendron CVS., Podocarpus gracilior. Podocarpus maaophyllus, RJUUlWHS ((!tvlinialla,
Selllla polyphyl/a, Slrelilzia IIieolai, Teeoma slalls, Tibollchilla IIrvil/ealla, Tibollchilla
granulosa, Vaccinium C1rhoreum, Viburnum obovalwl1, Viburnum odoratissimwl1,
VibllnIum odoratissintUll1 var awabuki, Yucca spp.
, Small Shrubs: B,.ey"ia dislicha, Caesalpillia spp., Ixora cocci Ilea, lvla/lOllia fO"IIl/1fi,
"JS1,.elitzia ,.egillae.
Vines: Allamanda calhartica, Bougail1villea cvs., Campsis Huliwns, GclsemiwH scmpcr-
virens, LOllicera sempervirens.
Groundcovers: Ajuga ,.eptalls, Aspidistra elalior, D'yopte,.is spp., Li,.iope mlls((/,.i, Zamia
fll/juracca,
Grasses: Miscanthus sinensis, Spartina spp., TripsacwH floridana.
Palms and Palm-Like Plants: Acoelorrlwphe wrighlii, Bismarcllia nohilis, Butia capitata,
Calpentaria acuminala, Ccn)'ofa mitis, ChaUlaerops 11lImilis, Ch,)'salidoc(lflJltS lutesccns,
Coccolhril1ax CI1gentata, Howea forsterana, Livislona spp., Nolina recurvafa, Plwenix
spp., Pselldop/lOellix smgelllii, RavellCCl rivlI/a,.is, Rlwpidophyl/um hyst,.ix, RoystollCCl
regia, Sabell palmetto, Serenoa repens, Thrillax nlOnisii, Thrinax raeliata, \\ilshingtonia
robusta, Wodyelia bifll/fala, Zmllia fll/luracea.
Ferns: D'yopteris spp,
Perennials: Agapanlhus african us, Ajuga replans, Asimilw spp., Aspidislra clati01;
Caladium X/IO,.llllallum, Cupltea hyssopifolia, D'yoplais spp., Helieollia spp, Impaliells
spp.,justicia branelegealla,justicia canlea, Liriope m!lscari, Mllsa spp., Philodendron
evs., Stachylml'hela spp.
Annuals: Ageralum spp., Caladium Xhortulalllllll, Celosia spp" Impaliells spp.,juslicia
brandegeana,juslicia camea.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Gasper, J oaquim.
Larj!e Shrubs: Nerium oleander-inset.
.
Girin, 13runo.
Annuals: Viola XwitlroddclIJa.
.
Granson, Sandy.
Small Trees: Cal/ialldra spp" Dodollaea viseosa, My,riaria ((/ulifJora.
Lar~e Shrubs: Lyonia fenuginca, Surimwll1arilima.
Small Shrubs: Acalypha hispida, Bnuifc1sia americana, Carissa macrocarpa, Gamolepis
spp., Lanlana depressa, Leucophyllwl1flutescens, Rosmari,ws spp.
Yi=: Ficus pll/Ilila, Tlulllbagia alala,
Grasses: Alldropogoll spp,
Ferns: Pteridium aquilillum.
Perennials: Begonia sempeiflorens, Hemerocallis spp., Lantana involucrala, Pteridiwn
aquilinwl1.
Annuals: Begonia sempe,j1orens, MOIlarda punclata.
.
.
.
.
Green, Tim.
Ferns: Dicksonia antarctica.
Perennials: Dicl~sonia antarctica.
.
Jacinto, Valter.
Laqle Shrubs: jasminwn mesnyi.
.
Karekar, Kapil.
Perennials: Haemalll1l11s mullifJorus,
.
Keisotyo.
Small Tr~: podocarpltS ll1C1crophyl1us (inset).
Lar~e Shrubs: Podoc(//l'us ma(l"ophyl/us (inset).
.
.
Kenpei.
Large Shrubs: Heptapleurum arboricolum. Hydrangea arboresCflls, Ternstrocmia gymncl11-
lhera,
Small Shrubs: Raphiolepis spp,
Groulldcovers: jUlliperlls /lOrizolllalis, Ophiopogoll japolliws.
.
.
Kern, Bill.
Medium Tr=: Perm, paluslris,
Small Trees: Cyrilla /"(Icemiflora, Sophora IOmelllOsa (inset),
Large Shrubs: Cyrilla /"(Icemiflo/"(l, Selllla biwpslIl(//is.
Small Shrubs: Lyollia lucida,
.
.
Larsen, Claudia.
Large Shrubs: Calycalllhlls floridlls, Rhododflldroll cw'escells.
Groundcovers: Glalldularia tampensis, Lantalla montevidensis.
~: Eragrostis e1liottii.
Perennials: Conradina spp" Coreopsis spp" flaveria Iinearis, Gaillardia pulchclla,
.
~
.....
-tIl
HcliclI1t1ms elllgllstifolius, Sisyril1chiwn Clngllstifoliwn, Solidago spp.
Armuals: Coreopsis spp.
10lBJ
Murray, Ann. University of FloridallFAS Center for Aquatic and
Invasive Plants
Ferns: Osmunda CitJltamOll1ea.
Perennials: Iris vifzinica, OSll1unda cinnamoll1ea.
Niemann, Brian.
Small Trees: I/ex X'Mary Nell'.
Large Shrubs: Berberis juliwlCle, Clelhra alllifolia, I/ex X'Mary Nell", OSmC1ll11111s fra-
grans, Pittosponon tohira.
Vines: Dccwnaria harhara.
Groundcovers: Mimosa slrigillosa.
Pagnier, Veronique.
Vines: Malldevilla evs.
Pellegrini, Mark.
Grounclcovers: Anlisia japonica.
Quillia, Oliver.
Vines: Passiflora itJcamata (inset).
Ramey, Vie. University of FloridallFAS Center for Aquatic and
Invasive Plants
Small Trees: Comus focmina.
Large Shrubs: Rhododendron austriUHIH.
Groundcovers: Nephrolepis I>iserrata.
Ferns: Ncphrolepis hiserrala.
Richard, Amy. University of FloridallFAS Center for Aquatic and
Invasive Plants
Groundcovers: Nephrolcpis exaltata.
Ferns: Nephmlepis exallata.
Schumaker, Paul.
Grounclcovers: Ipomoea spp.
Shebs, Stan.
Groundcovers: RlIll10hra adiantifonnis.
Grasses: Aristida stricta var. beyrichialla.
Ferns: RUUlohra adiantifonnis.
Storch, Hedwig.
Perennials: KalallcllOe blossfeldialla,
Sullivan, Jessica.
Medium Trees: Elaeoc(//l'us decipells, Zalllhoxylllm clava-hawlis.
Tau'olunga.
Vines: QlIis'lHalis indica.
Taylor, Kim.
Large Shrubs: Hamelia palells.
Wasowski, Sally and Andy. Lady Bird Johnson
Wildflower Center
Groundcovers: Thelypleris lwlllhii.
Ferns: Thelypteris /1II111hii.
Wichman, Tom,
Lar~e Shrubs: Baml>lIsa spp., Hil>iw,-, spp,
Vines: Mil/cilia reticlllala,
Groundcovers: Vinca mCljor.
Palms and Palm-Like Plants: Ceratozamia hi/dae, CeratozaUlia Iwesteriana, Dioon
edule,
Perennials: Amo"pllOpllCll/us spp., Asclepia-, spp., Lyeo..is spp,
Wilber, Wendy.
Annuals: Til1lOIIia rolulldiflora.
Wildes, Carolyn.
Small Shrubs: Rllsselia sam'elltosa.
Yasalonis, Anne.
Small Trees: Illicillm spp,
Large Shrubs: Illicillm spp"jasmillllm mlllliflorlllll,
Small Shrubs: RlIsselia eqlliselifolTllis.
Vines: jasminum multiflonon.
Groundcovers: Dyschorisle oblollgifolia.
Perennials: COllradilla spp, (inset), Dyschori-'le oblollgifolia,
lOB
.
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('.
CREATE A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE
Yards and landscapes can be a positive asset to Florida. You can design and maintain your own Florida-
Friendly Landscape by following the simple practices in this book. You will learn the basics of designing a
landscape featuring carefully selected plants suited to Florida's unique climate, natural conditions, and
wildlife.
We offer you cost-saving tips that, if implemented properly, will help you reduce water, fertilizer, and pesti-
cide use. There is also a helpful section for waterfront homeowners addressing the special concerns of shore-
line landscape management.
Whether you are starting from scratch with a new landscape or considering changes to an existing yard, the
Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook offers helpful concepts, tools, and techniques for creating your
own Florida-Friendly yard. We hope you enjoy the publication and look forward to assisting you in creating
an aesthetically pleasing landscape that will also help to protect Florida's natural resources.
Florida-Friendly t
Landscaping™pROGRAM ~)~ ~
~
Agenda Item #: 1 0 ~ Meeting Date: {p114-
Presented by: ~T II FF- P f2..e5 @VI Gil
AFT rd<L Y\IIA- c.. lfA TC..L~:~
t'\.A\'t. N~LL .
Florida Frie
. Best Management Practices
for Protection of Water Resources
by the Green Industries
. }O,~""t;
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FLORIDA DEPARTMENT OF ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
A Florida-Friendly Landscape Publication
CQ
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I am pleased to present this new edition of the Florida
Department of Environmental Protection's (DEP) guide
for the professional turf and landscape industry. In the
past six years, more than 100,000 books were distrib-
uted, in both English and Spanish, and thousands of
workforce members have received formal training.
Florida Friendly Best Management Practices for the
Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
reflects the collaborative efforts of DEp, the University of
Florida, several state and local agencies, as well as
numerous stakeholders and private industry partners.
The guide represents a collective commitment to assist
the turf and landscape industry to protect the environ-
ment through the implementation of educational pro-
grams. I encourage you to follow the recommendations
contained in the publication; they will help conserve
water, protect our natural resources, minimize the need
for regulation, and continue Florida's commitment of
sound environmental stewardship.
MICHAEL W SOLE, SECRETARY
Florida Department of Environmental Protection
. flORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
GOALS OF THE MANUAL
:l-
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'~,~...~
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This manual provides information and guidance on turfgrass and landscape management practices to minimize Nonpoint
Source Pollution in order to conserve and protect Florida's water resources. These practices cover both the establishment of
new turf and landscapes and the care of existing turf and landscapes, including construction activities, irrigation, nutrient
management, and pest management.
This manual is designed to be an educational guide for professional service providers and other interested parties. It
does not substitute for the services of a landscape architect, engineer, or other design professional. Design issues are dis-
cussed as they apply to the service industry and their clients.
This document is intended to enhance the professional knowledge and judgment of turfgrass and landscape workers. Plants
are living systems, and these practices should not be rigidly applied in all cases. Workers should use the guidance provided,
but measures that are more restrictive may be required in specific situations to protect sites that are at particularly high risk
for adverse effects on surface water and ground water. State laws and local ordinances always take precedence.
More information on Stormwater Management, Low Impact Development, and Florida Friendly Landscape Maintenance
Practices is available from the Florida Department of Environmental Protection, the University of Florida Cooperative
Extension Service, water management districts, universities and community colleges, and professional associations.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008 .
Q:J.
o
.....
. flORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The authors of this document owe a debt of gratitude to the Professional Landscape Network
(PLANET), in allowing us to use its document on Best Management Practices for Turfgrass as a
guide, and to Tom Delany, the association's representative on the committee. The PLANET docu-
ment was based on a U.S. Environmental Protection Agency grant.
Particular gratitude is due to Erica Santella, Regional Technical Director for TruGreen and past
president of the Florida Turfgrass Association, who served as committee chair for the original
development of this manual. Special thanks are also due to our editor, Mike Thomas, Florida
Department of Environmental Protection (FDEP), who has taken the group through the process
and guided us down the right path.
We would like to thank Bryan Cooksey of McCall's Pest Control and former president of the
Florida Pest Management Association; Geri Cashion of FMC Corp; Mark Roberts of Toro; Joel
Jackson of the Florida Golf Course Superintendents Association; Joe Welch of Middleton Lawn
and Pest Control; Sidney Hinson, Gary Cook, and Scott Sincerbeau of Lesco; Norm Smith, Mel
Edelstein (deceased), and Ed Minor of the Certified Pest Control Operators Association; Jennifer
Leggett of Lindsey Pest Control; Toni Caithness of the Florida Pest Management Association; John
Thatcher of TruGreen; Nick Dennis of Prolawn; Jeff Michel of Massey Services, Inc.; Gene Yearty
(deceased); Marylyn Bales of Douglass Fertilizer; Ben Bolusky and Tom Tumbleson of the Florida
Nursery, Growers and Landscapers Association; and Barry Troutman of Valleycrest Landscape.
Staff of the following agencies provided invaluable support for this project: Mike Scheinkman
(FDEP); Mark Jennings and Steve Dwinell, Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer
Services (FDACS); Richard Deadman, Florida Department of Community Affairs; Katherine
Pordeli, St. Johns River Water Management District; Peg McPherson, South Florida Water
Management District; and Ron Cohen and Jay Yingling, Southwest Florida Water Management
District. Cover photo is provided courtesy of the South Florida Water Management District. Final
editing was done by Linda Lord (FDEP).
Finally, our thanks to Laurie Trenholm, Gary Knox, Christine Kelly-Begazo, John Cisar, George
Snyder, Jerry Sartain, Terril Nell, Michael Dukes, Robert Black, Pam Mattis, Ed Gilman, and a host
of other research and extension faculty, staff, and county agents with the University of Florida
Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (lFAS), and the innumerable other citizens who con-
tributed comments.
This publication was funded in part by FDEP with a Section 319 Nonpoint Source Management
Program Grant from the US Environmental Protection Agency.
DISCLAIMER
The mention of a specific product or company is for information purposes only and does not con-
stitute an endorsement of that product or company.
Copyright 2008, Florida Deportment of Environmental Protection.
Table of Contents
GOALS OF THE MANUAL ........................................111
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS............................................ iv
TABLE OF CONTENTS ................................................v
~
CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION ....................................1
1
I
.
Using Best Management Practices
to Reduce Pollution and Conserve Water ........................1
Environmental Issues............ ......... ...................... .......... ...1
Importance of Maintaining
Healthy Landscapes and Turf............................................2
Cultural Practices for Healthy Landscapes ......................2
Employee Training.. ..... ............. .................................. ......4
CHAPTER 2: BEST MANAGEMENT
PRACTICES FOR DESIGN AND
INSTALLATION OF LANDSCAPES................................6
I
I
,
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Site Evaluation and Landscape Design ............................6
Florida Friendly Landscape Design Standards..................6
Plant Selection .... ......... ................. .................... ................7
Selecting a Turfgrass for a Florida Lawn ....................7
Selecting Trees, Shrubs, and Ground Covers..............8
Planting ... ........................... .............. ............... ..... ..... ..... ..8
Preparing To Plant a Lawn..........................................8
Landscape Plant Installation ......................................8
Care During Plant Establishment ..............................8
Environmental Stresses on Lawns ....................................9
Shade Considerations for Turf ..........................................9
CHAPTER 3: IRRIGATION BEST
MANAGEMENT PRACTICES ....................................11
Permitting and Regulations ............................................11
Reclaimed Water Use................ ..... .............. ............... ....12
Irrigation System Design ................................................12
Microirrigation for Landscape Plants ......................13
Irrigation System Installation... .............. .................... .... .15
Irrigation Management. .... ..... .............. ..... .... .......... ........ .15
Irrigation System Maintenance ......................................17
Irrigation System Errors..... ..... ......... ......... .......... ..... ..... ..18
Sources for Irrigation Standards......................................18
CHAPTER 4: MULCHING,
MOWING, AND PRUNING......................,...............20
Landscape Mulches .... ......... ........ ............. ........... .... ...... .20
Benefits of Mulching ................................................20
Mowing the Florida Lawn ..............................................21
Pruning of Landscape Plants ..........................................22
Mangroves ................. .............. ..... ...................... .... ..23,
Disposing of Landscape Material....................................23
CHAPTER 5: FERTILIZATION ....................................25
Fertilizer Terms .. ....................... .............. .................. ... ..25
Fertilizer Analysis. ......... ......... ............... .................. .... ... .25
Urban Turf Fertilizer Rule ..............................................25
Turf Fertilization Management..................... ......... .... .... ..25
Nitrogen Management .... .......... ......... .............. ........ .26
Phosphorus Fertilization. .......... .............. ..... .... ....... .30
Potassium Fertilization .... ..... ..... .......... ..... .... ......... ..31
Secondary Nutrient Fertilization ..............................31
Micronutrients ........... ..... .... ................ ..... ......... ..... ...31
Fertilizing Grass for
Establishment or Recovery ......................................32
Untreated Buffers Near Bodies of Water ........................32
Impervious Surfaces. ........ ......... ........... ........... ..... ..... .... ..33
Fertigation .. ................... ............. ..... ...... ........... ..... .... .... .33
Fertilizing Landscape Plants ..........................................33
Why Fertilize? ....... .... ................................... .......... ..33
Recommendations and Basic Principles
for Fertilizing Landscape Plants ..............................34
When To Fertilize .............. ..... .......... ..... .... ..... .........34
How Much To Fertilize ............................................34
Where and How To Fertilize ....................................35
Fertilizer Storage and Loading........................................35
Storage...... ............. .... ..... ......... ..... ..... ..... ......... ........ .35
Loading .............. .... ..... .............. .... ..... ..... ......... .... ... .36
Soil Testing... .......... .... ....................... ......... ..... .... ..... .... ...36
Soil Sampling Methodology ......................................36
Soil Test Interpretation... ......... .............. ..... .... .... .......3 7
Tissue Testing.. ......... .... .............. ......... .............. ..............37
Tissue Sampling Methodology ..................................38
Sample Contamination .... ......... ........................... ... .38
Interpretation of Results ........ .... .................. .... ..... ...38
Summary . ...... ..... .......... ......... ..... .... ..... .............. .... ........ .38
CHAPTER 6: PEST CONTROL ..................................40
Legal Issues ...... .... ...... ..... .......... ..... .... ..... .... ..... .... .... ... ...40
Definitions... ..... ..... ..... ................... ......... ......... ... ......40
Licensing Requirements for Pesticide
Use in Lawn and Landscape Maintenance................40
Pesticide Record Keeping............ .... ..... .... .... .... ... ... ...40
Restricted Use Pesticides... ..... .... ......... .... .... ... .... ... ...41
Integrated Pest Management ..........................................41
Pesticide Use ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ............. ........ .... .... .... ... .....4 2
Pesticide Selection.. ..... ............. .... .... ........ .... ... ... ......43
Pesticide Storage .. ..... ..... ..... ........ ..... .... .... .... ....... ... ........44
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
"-"::J
Mixing and Loading Activities........................................46
Pesticide Equipment Calibration and Loading ..............46
Pesticide Application Equipment Wash Water ..............47
Pesticide Spill Management ............................................47
Spill Reporting Requirements ..................................48
Management of Pests in the Landscape ..........................49
Weed Management.................................................... 49
Insects and Other Organisms....................................49
Plant Nematodes . ..... ...... ..... ...... ...... .... ..... .... ...... ......50
Plant Diseases. .... ..... ...... ..... ..... ...... ...... .... ..... ..... ...... ..50
Diagnostic Assistance ...... ...... ...... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..........50
o
.....,
REFERENCES ..................... ............ ..................... ....51
Design & Installation References....................................5I
Preparation. .......... .... ...... ..... ...... ...... ..... .... ..... ..... .......51
Selection.................................................................... 51
Environmental Stresses .. ..... ....... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ......51
Irrigation References ..... ...... ..... ...... ...... .... ..... .......... ..... ..51
Standards . .... ..... ..... ..... ...... ..... ....... .... ..... .... ..... ...... ... .51
Guidance .... .... ...... ..... ..... ...... ..... ...... .... ..... ..... ..... ......52
Mulching, Mowing, and Pruning References..................52
Fertilization References .... ...... ..... ...... ..... ..... .... ..... ..... .... .53
Pesticide References... .... ...... ..... ...... ...... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..53
APPENDIX A: IMPORTANT
TELEPHONE NUMBERS.......................... ................. .55
Emergency Reporting Telephone Numbers ....................55
Help Line Telephone Numbers ......................................55
Nonemergency Telephone Numbers ..............................56
APPENDIX B: FLORIDA COOPERATIVE
EXTENSION SERVICE TELEPHONE NUMBERS............57
. flORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
APPENDIX C: RULE 5E- 1 .003(2) LABELING
REQUIREMENTS FOR URBAN TURF FERTILIZERS ........59
LIST OF TABLES
Table 1. Comparison of lawngrasses
available for use in Florida................................................7
Table 2. Irrigation spacing ..............................................13
Table 3. Irrigation Association
Distribution Uniformities.... ...... ...... ...... ..... ...... ..... ...... ....17
Table 4. Suggested mowing heights and
mower types for Florida home lawns ............................21
Table 5. Fertilization guidelines for established
turfgrass lawns in three regions of Florida ....................29
Table 6. Landscape plant nitrogen
fertilization rates .. ...... ....... ....... ...... ..... ..... ...... ..... ...... .....34
Table 7. Suggested ranges for Mehlich-I extractable
soil nutrient levels for Florida turfgrasses ......................37
Table 8. Sufficiency ranges of tissue
N concentration for selected lawn turfgrasses................38
Table 9. Sufficiency concentration ranges
for selected macro and micronutrients
in turfgrass tissue ...... ...... ..... ........ ..... ...... ...... .... ........ ......38
Table 10. Reportable quantities for
certain pesticides ....... ............ ....... ..... ..... ...... ...... ...... ......48
. Chapter 1: Introduction
\...
USING BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES TO REDUCE POLLUTION AND CONSERVE WATER
The protection of water resources is enhanced through
turf- and landscape-care practices that make the best use
of technology and the practical experience of profession-
als. These practices address specific concerns, including
the protection of water resources where pesticides and
nutrients enter ground water and surface water as a result
of non point source pollution.
University studies throughout the country, including
Florida, have shown that properly managed turfgrass and
landscapes do not significantly contribute to nonpoint
source pollution. Pollution occurs when less-than-ade-
quate management techniques are used. Developing low-
risk irrigation, fertilizer, and pesticide programs, and
ensuring that these programs are properly administered
and periodically reviewed, reduces the possibility of
nutrient movement off-site. Whenever possible, profes-
sionals should educate their clients on landscape best
management practices (BMPs) that encourage water con-
servation and pollution prevention.
The goals of the FDEP Green Industry BMPs are to
reduce nonpoint source pollution and promote the effi-
cient use of water, as follows:
· Reduce the off-site transport of sediment, nutrients,
and pesticides through surface water or ground water.
. Use appropriate site design and plant selection.
. Use appropriate rates and methods of applying fertilizer
and irrigation.
· Use integrated pest management (IPM) to minimize
pests and apply chemicals only when appropriate.
BMPs should integrate selection, irrigation, fertilization,
and pest management in a manner that minimizes envi-
ronmental impacts, yet meets clients' and customers'
expectations. Irrigation practices influence how often we
need to fertilize and this can affect the occurrence of pest
problems. Weigh these and other factors when making
landscape management decisions.
I
.
1
I
I
I
I
I
The first edition of this manual was published in the sum-
mer of 2002. By the end of 2007, more than 80,000 manu-
als had been distributed, in both English and Spanish ver-
sions. More than 50,000 glove box sized summary book-
lets have also been distributed. In the first five years, more
than 2600 people obtained formal certification through
DEP or UF-lFAS sponsored training, and many of these
people have taught others about the BMPs, but they did
not obtain formal certification through the University.
Figure 1. With proper BMPs, our water resources can successfully
coexist with residential landscapes.
Since the original publication of this BMP manual, sever-
al new laws have been passed, new research completed,
and new products developed. Therefore, this 2008 ver-
sion contains new information in many areas, especially
concerning irrigation systems and fertilizer use, along
with many other suggestions received from dozens of
landscapers and others seeking to improve this book.
This revision would not be as good without their ideas
and contributions.
This manual provides specific examples of how BMPs
might work in typical situations. These examples are
not meant to minimize concerns associated with other
turfgrass or pest problems. Although certain rules are
mentioned, this publication is an educational, not a
regulatory, document. Always check with state and
local authorities, because local ordinances may be more
restrictive than federal or state regulations.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Many areas of the state are running low on freshwater
supplies. Water conservation is one of the most crucial
issues facing Florida in the future, and applying the BMPs
described in this manual will help to conserve our pre-
cious fresh water.
Since the passage of the Clean Water Act and the forma-
tion of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency,
tremendous strides have been made in cleaning up our air
and water. Most of this cleanup has been accomplished
through permitting and the regulation of point sources of
pollution such as factory smokestacks and sewage dis-
charges.
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200B .
Q:I, In contrast, nonpoint source pollution comes from diffuse
o sources and is associated with the long-term effects of
..., everyday activities. It is carried primarily by rainfall and
irrigation water, which cause pollutants that have accu-
mulated on the land surface to run off into surface waters
or to leach into ground water. Water is the primary mech-
anism for the transport of dissolved chemicals through
the soil. Nonpoint source pollution may not be obvious
until a rainfall event occurs, leading to stormwater runoff
from roads, parking lots, suburban areas, and farms. As
Florida's population has soared, this type of pollution has
become an increasingly important issue in the state.
Many of Florida's water resources are particularly suscep-
tible to pollution because of the state's unique geology
and climate. Floridians obtain most of their drinking
water from ground water via wells. Ground water sup-
plies often lie near the surface and may be covered by
nothing but sandy soil. Surface waters in Florida are very
sensitive to even small additions of pollution, which have
caused widespread ecosystem changes in our sensitive
estuaries, lakes, rivers, and the Everglades.
In order to prevent potential leaching and runoff; users of
fertilizers and pesticides need to consider the weather
conditions, proper application rates of products and cali-
bration of equipment, soil properties, the distance to the
water table, the slope of the land, and the distance to sur-
face waters and storm drains; all of this, in addition to
plant nutrition, disease, and pest factors.
Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth many
dollars of cure.
"-
Figure 2. Grassy stormwater retention areas can add to a lawn and
protect our environment.
IMPORTANCE OF MAINTAINING
HEALTHY LANDSCAPES AND TURF
Well-planned, healthy landscapes designed with Florida-
friendly landscape practices usually include trees,
ornamentals, and a lawn of turfgrass or other ground
. FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
cover. Native and well-adapted, noninvasive ornamentals
contribute beauty and balance to a property, provide
shade and wildlife habitat, and help to control erosion by
diminishing the force of rainfall. Both the lawn and other
landscape plantings reduce noise and glare, and modify
temperatures.
A healthy and vigorous turf with good plant density pro-
vides many benefits. Healthy grass is viewed as an aes-
thetic asset, and a growing body of evidence points to the
positive health and environmental contributions made by
lawns and other turf areas. Turfgrass plays a significant
role in reducing water runoff in urban and suburban
environments that have significant areas of impervious
surfaces such as parking lots, sidewalks, and driveways.
Dense turf reduces the velocity of runoff and allows
greater infiltration into both the thatch and root zone,
where microbes can begin breaking down the water con-
taminants. The turfgrass root zone is a unique soil sys-
tem. A healthy root zone does the following:
· Improves soil structure and reduces soil compaction,
allowing greater infiltration of rain or irrigation water;
· Improves soil processes that facilitate the biodegrada-
tion (breakdown) of various types of organic pollutants,
air contaminants, and pesticides used in lawn care;
· Encourages soil-building processes through the decom-
position of organic matter and formation of humus,
and contributes to easier lawn care with fewer weeds
and insects and less disease.
CULTURAL PRACTICES FOR HEALTHY LANDSCAPES
Plant selection and location are the most important
factors in planning a lawn and landscape. After weather,
cultural practices are the biggest factors in determining
how well an agronomic or horticultural program per-
forms. The amount of pesticides, fertilizers, and water
required often directly correlate with cultural practices
and how well they are carried out.
Landscape professionals have a responsibility to supply
their customers with educational material on their role in
keeping turf and other landscape plants healthy. This
includes (as appropriate) information on irrigation, mow-
ing, plant selection, aeration, and traffic control. Few
landscaping and lawn care companies have total control
over all aspects of the properties they maintain. It is not
uncommon for mowing, fertilization, pest management,
and irrigation maintenance to be performed by two or
more companies, or the homeowner may do one or more
jobs themselves. It is of the utmost importance to educate
customers about wise cultural practices so they can see
that they are performed properly.
Cultural practices include irrigation, fertilization, mowing
and pruning, aeration and dethatching. When each of
these is performed properly, the need for pesticides is
reduced because plants and turfgrasses are healthier and
more resistant to pest problems.
The concept of Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
emphasizes proper cultural practices along with selecting
plant species, varieties and cultivars that are less suscepti-
ble to insects, nematodes, and diseases, and best adapted
to the environmental conditions of the site and geograph-
ic part of the state.
Mowing height has a tremendous impact on the severity
of weed, insect, and disease pests. In general, lowering
the height increases weed, insect, and disease pressure on
turfgrasses by causing turf stress. There are exceptions:
dwarf varieties, centipedegrass and improved bermuda-
grasses have lower mowing heights than the standard
often used for lawn and commercial turfgrasses. Still,
even these lower-growing varieties will suffer stress if
mowed too short.
Pruning is an important task in maintaining a landscape.
Through the selective removal of shoots and branches,
pruning a plant can improve its health, control its
growth, and enhance its fruiting, flowering, or appear-
ance. Improper pruning, on the other hand, may weaken
a plant, open it to invasion by disease or insect pests, or
even lead to premature death of the plant. Incorrect dis-
posal of material may lead to the spreading of diseases or
pests, or of the spreading of invasive species.
Time fertilizer applications to maximize plant use and
minimize adverse environmental impacts. Plants use the
most nitrogen during periods of high growth, and less
when dormant. However, it is important to avoid fertiliz-
er applications if heavy rain is expected before the nutri-
ents are immobilized. In theory, frequent, very light appli-
cations or "spoon feedings" of turf and landscapes are
ideal to avoid leaching a large amount at one time due to
a heavy rain event, but this is difficult to achieve safely
without special management, such as for golf course
greens. Slow release fertilizers attempt to match this ideal
profile. Both quick- and slow-release fertilizers have a
place in a sound management program.
Fertilization of plants can result in additional growth
and production of leaves, stems, branches and roots.
However, additional growth can result in more mainte-
nance and yard trimming, so it is important to deter-
mine if heavy growth is the desired result. Fertilization
is usually desirable when trying to establish newly
installed landscape plants. In addition, adding fertilizer
can help plants get off to a quick start so they fill the
planted area.
Inadequate nutrition results in thin, weak plants that may
be more susceptible to insects, weeds, and diseases. In
addition, weakened plants do not hold the soil as well as
healthy dense stands and can lead to soil erosion and
water pollution. Certain diseases, such as rust and dollar
spot, can occur in turf maintained under low-nutrient
conditions. Under-fertilized landscape plants may require
a higher than normal rate of nitrogen or other nutrients
in order to return to a healthy condition.
Over-fertilization can also enhance plant susceptibility to
pests and diseases. Several pesticide applications may be
required to alleviate problems that would not have been
as prevalent under a proper nutrition program.
Remember that plants don't waste water, people do. In a
typical urban environment where soils and habitat have
been modified, supplemental irrigation is necessary for
the survival of many turf and ornamental plants during
periods of severe moisture deficiency. However, overwa-
tering may increase insect, weed, and disease pressures.
For example, excessive moisture encourages the develop-
ment of dollarweed and fungal pathogens. Conversely,
some weeds such as spurge and Florida pusley thrive
under dry conditions and can outcompete turfgrass suf-
fering from drought stress. A balance is necessary to keep
the landscape strong and healthy.
The average volume of rainfall in Florida ranges from 40
inches annually in Key West to about 53 inches in the
central and northern peninsula and over 60 inches in the
Panhandle west of Tallahassee and along the southeast
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H~
.~ ~
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Figure 3. Poor fertilization technique wastes fertilizer, causes unsightly
stains, and pollutes our waterbodies.
coast below lake Okeechobee. In parts of the central and
southern peninsula, more than half of Florida's total
annual rainfall is concentrated between June and
September. During the winter and spring, or during
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008 .
severe drought years, the lack of rainfall may seriously
c::r::. compromise plant health. Landscape plants, including
o turfgrass, that are growing in soils with a limited capaci-
ty to retain moisture can benefit from supplemental
....., irrigation during periods of low rainfall. Even during
the rainy season, evapotranspiration (water loss from
plants and soil) occurs between showers and may neces-
sitate supplemental watering while plants are becoming
established.
Determining and controlling the rate, amount, and tim-
ing of irrigation can minimize soil erosion, runoff, and
fertilizer and pesticide movement. The irrigation system
should be designed to have an application rate that is
less than the infiltration capacity of the soil so that no
surface pooling occurs and water percolates with maxi-
mum efficiency. Rain sensors or soil moisture sensors
eliminate irrigation when nature has supplied sufficient
water. A correctly installed and operating rain sensor,
which is required by law on all systems installed after
1991, can save up to 30% or more over a timer-only sys-
tem. If you notice a defective rain sensor while perform-
ing other work on a property, try to notify the owner so
they can get it repaired.
The use of pesticides for controlling pests remains an
important part of landscape plant management in
Florida. The key to reducing pesticide use is to combine
genetic, cultural, and biological management practices
into an IPM program that focuses on the prevention of
pest problems. When suppression is necessary, it is easier
to suppress a pest when conditions exist that do not
favor its development. For example, diseases can be hard
to manage during periods of heavy rains but if over-
watering is promoting disease, cutting back irrigation
will help suppress fungus much more effectively than
fungicide applications alone.
BMPs to protect water quality can be affordable and easily
implemented, and are effective in reducing the off-site
transport of sediment, nutrients, and pesticides. Select
pesticides that are the least toxic, least water soluble, least
volatile, and most effective. The best defense against the
movement of pesticides and fertilizer nutrients off-site or
through the soil is a thick, vigorously growing stand of
turf or other landscape plants.
Pesticides must be correctly applied. Spray when condi-
tions for drift are minimal, avoid application when heavy
rain is expected, and irrigate with appropriate volumes of
water per label instructions. Granular applications
should be targeted away from impervious surfaces and
bodies of water. The landscape manager should check
the proper calibration of equipment before every pesti-
cide application.
Always follow the label directions for disposing of
pesticide containers.
. FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
EMPLOYEE TRAINING
The effectiveness of any program is only as good as the
understanding of the personnel responsible for final
application. BMPs are no exception. For BMPs to be effec-
tive, the technicians in the field must understand their
role in protecting our water resources. This understand-
ing can only come from the development and implemen-
tation of employee-training programs.
Employees should be given pertinent information relating
to their job duties, especially job safety. The Green
Industry is very diverse. Companies range in size from
one or two individuals to very large corporations. Firms
of any size may choose to avail themselves of horticultur-
al and practical training available through professional
associations, governments, or the county Cooperative
Extension Service.
In addition to the BMPs, it is recommended that
managers, salespeople, and supervisors take advantage
of Florida Yards and Neighborhoods (FYN) training
events where they are provided by their local IFAS
Extension office. While consistent with the Green
Industry BMPs, FYN training is geared to homeowners,
and in some areas to retailers and homebuilders. While
FYN is the "homeowner" BMP guide and applies to
maintenance of all types of yards found in Florida, it
also addresses design of diverse landscapes that mini-
mize use of irrigation, supplemental fertilizers, and cor-
rective pest control. FYN classes also focus considerable
attention on specific plant selection, placement, and
care. This information is tailored to local conditions and
soils, topics beyond the scope of this manual. There is a
growing demand for people to install and service these
yards properly, and this may provide an opportunity to
expand your client base.
If you are doing planting or irrigation work, or any other
digging, find out where utility lines are buried before you
dig in order to protect yourself and your crew from injury
and prevent damage to underground utility lines. Train
your employees that a call to 811 starts the process of
getting underground utility lines marked for free. Calling
811 in Florida routes you to Sunshine State One Call.
Utility companies then send a professional locator to the
location to mark underground lines within two full
business days. Once the lines are marked, you will know
the approximate location of the utility lines and can dig
more safely. However, One Call member utilities
typically locate only those underground facilities they
own. Customer wiring and piping within the lot are not
marked by One Call.
Employees whose job duties include activities related to
BMPs should be properly trained to perform those activi-
ties before going in the field. Applicable personnel at all
levels of responsibility should receive refresher training
annually on the general components and goals of the
BMPs, job safety, and the specific BMPs that apply to
their jobs.
Documenting an employee's participation is an integral
part of a successful training program. Employee training
should be documented in an employee training log. This
documentation provides the business with a tool to
ensure the effective delivery of BMPs. It not only allows
the company to track an employee's education and com-
petence, but also provides a record in case of accident to
show that the company provided the employee with the
proper training to do his or her job. Records should have
the name and signature of the employee, the provider or
trainer, subject, date, and hours (time in/time out).
As time goes on, some local governments are passing
ordinances to regulate the Green Industry. Many of these
ordinances may require education in order to obtain an
occupational license or to provide services to the public.
Maintaining training records shows that your business
meets these requirements.
Remember . . .
· Train employees about BMPs and job safety.
· Retrain annually and when changes are made.
· Train employees to document and retain records of
activities.
..
,-
',----'-"
Finally, consider real nature of your business. It is proba-
bly not the sale of pesticides, fertilizers, or gasoline. It is
more likely that your real business is maintaining your
customers' yards at a level that pleases them, at the lowest
expense to you. Do not spend money applying materials
that are not needed, or that are wasted by poor applica-
tion practices or improper equipment calibration. Do not
waste materials and time fighting the symptoms of prob-
lems you have no control over. Collaborate with other
trades that have expertise you do not provide, such as an
irrigation contractor. Then, if the irrigation system is
causing fungal problems and dry spots, you can provide
the customer with repairs; fix the real cause of the trou-
ble; and save money on fungicide, insecticide, fertilizer
and labor. Using Best Management Practices minimizes
both the environmental and financial costs of maintaining
a healthy and attractive landscape.
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
<:)
....,
-.. Chapter 2: Best Management Practices
for Design and I nstallation of Landscapes
Bare soils and slopes without proper plant cover are
highly susceptible to erosion. Sediment resulting from
erosion is the leading cause of waterbody impairment and
pollution. Sediment destroys fish-spawning beds, reduces
useful storage volumes in reservoirs, and increases filtra-
tion costs for municipal water supplies. Pesticides and
nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus can bind with
sediments and be moved by running water. A healthy
stand of turf andJor other landscape plants can help to
control erosion and reduce runoff, but must be properly
established and maintained to protect water quality.
It is important to design the landscape before installing
the irrigation system. This allows the irrigation system to
be designed to meet the needs of the plants instead of the
other way around.
Florida Statutes 125.568(3), 166.048(3), and 373.185(3)
provide that a deed restriction or covenant entered after
October 1, 2001, or local government ordinance, may
not prohibit any property owner from implementing
Xeriscape or Florida-friendly landscape practices on his
or her land, Any restrictions created after this date are
void.
In many communities, construction and design docu-
ments and permits require the signature and seal of a
design professional. To protect the public, landscape
architects and professional engineers are licensed by the
state. Contact your local authorities if you are not sure
what is required. For more information on landscape
architecture, see http://www.myfloridalicense.comldbpr/
pro/larchl, or to learn more about engineering services go
to http://www.fbpe.orgl.
SITE EVALUATION AND LANDSCAPE DESIGN
The long-term value of a landscape depends on how well
it performs for its particular objectives. Performance is
often directly related to matching a site's characteristics
and a client's desires with plant requirements. Therefore,
the first step in selecting plants for a landscape is to
conduct a site evaluation, which may consist of studying
planting site characteristics such as the amount of sun or
shade, salt spray exposure, soil type, pH, soil compaction,
slope and water drainage. These characteristics will most
likely differ between areas on the same property. For
example, the area on one side of a structure may have
significantly different light conditions than an area on the
other side. Construction activities may have produced
severe compaction, and non-native soils may have been
used as fill in some areas. Such soils may need aerifica-
tion or amendment to be suitable for planting. The sec-
ond step is to select plants with attributes that match the
Figure 4. Narrow strips are difficult to maintain.
characteristics of the planting site. The design profes-
sional should always provide the owner with a record
drawing identifying each plant or bed and the recom-
mended irrigation requirements.
For more information, see IFAS Circular 536, Basic
Principles of Landscape Design, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.
edu/MG086.
FLORIDA FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE
DESIGN STANDARDS
In 2004, the Florida legislature created section 373.228
Florida Statutes, directing the Department of Environ-
mental Protection, the Water Management Districts,
and several stakeholder groups to devise standards for
Landscape Irrigation and Florida-Friendly landscape
design. These standards were adopted in December
2006. Local governments must use these standards
when adopting local ordinances after that date.
The nine principles of Florida-friendly landscaping
include planting the right plant in the right place,
efficient watering, appropriate fertilization, mulching,
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
These landscape and irrigation design Standards
shall be used by local governments when developing
landscape irrigation and xeriscape (Florida-Friendly)
ordinances, pursuant to section 373,228, F.S,
I. Landscape and Xeriscape (Florida-Friendly)
Design Standards
A. Low impact site design practices, such as preserv-
ing existing native trees and vegetation, shall be
used if feasible. Where established natural vegeta-
tion is incorporated into the landscape design,
irrigation of those areas shall not be required.
B. The plant palette and irrigation system shall be
appropriate for site conditions, taking into account
that, in some cases, soil improvement can enhance
water use efficiency.
C. plants shall be grouped together by irrigation
demand.
D. The percentage of landscaped area in irrigated
high water use hydrozones should be minimized.
Local government ordinances shall address the
percentage of irrigated landscaped area that may
be included in high water use hydrozones. These
high water use limits should not apply to land-
scaped areas requiring large amounts of turf for
their primary functions, e.g., ballfields and play-
grounds.
attraction of wildlife, responsible management of yard
pests, recycling yard waste, reduction of stormwater runoff,
and waterfront protection. Additional components of
Florida-friendly landscape include planning and design,
soil analysis, the use of solid waste compost, practical use
of turf, and proper maintenance.
This BMP manual for professionals and the Florida Yards
and Neighborhoods (FYN) programs for homeowners,
homebuilders and developers, and retailers are based
on these nine principles, differing only in focusing on the
needs of their target audience. All are part of the Florida
Friendly Landscapes program, a partnership between the
Florida Department of Environmental Protection, the
UF-IFAS Environmental Horticulture Department and
Center for Landscape Conservation and Ecology, and the
five water management districts.
PLANT SELECTION
Because many of the plants used in Florida vary widely in
their adaptation, consideration should be given to choos-
ing grasses and other plants that are suited to their partic-
ular environment.
SELECTING A TURFGRASS FOR A FLORIDA LAWN
Selecting the correct grass is critical to maintaining a lawn
successfully. Table I can help you choose the grass that is
best suited to a particular customer, location, and use.
To select the right grass, the following questions should
be asked:
· What type of lawn is desired or expected and what level
of maintenance can be provided? The level of mainte-
nance required is closely related to cost and time, with
high-maintenance turf costing the most and taking the
most time to maintain. Homeowners should under-
stand realistically what their options are and what each
entails.
· What are the environmental conditions at the planting
site? Most importantly, what are the soil type, pH,
drainage, and other soil characteristics? Has it been
Table 1: Common lawn grass species used in Florida. Some of the species may vary by cultivars for characteristics listed.
Environment Bahiagrass Bermudagrass Centipedegrass Seashore Paspalum St, Augustinegrass Zoysiagrass
Area Adapted To Statewide Statewide N. Florida and Statewide Statewide Statewide
Panhandle (one
cultivar adapted to
South Florida)
Mowing Height 3"-4" Cultivar Dependent 1.5"-2.0" 0.5"-2" Cultivar Dependent Cultivar Dependent
0.5"-1.5" 1.5"-4" 0.5"-2"
Soil Acid, sandy Wide range Acid, infertile Wide range Wide range Wide range
Leaf Texture Coarse-medium Cultivar Dependent Medium Fine-medium Cultivar Dependent Cultivar Dependent
Fine-medium Coarse-medium Fine-medium
Salt Tolerance Poor Good Poor Excellent Good Good
Shade Tolerance Poor Poor Fair Poor Good Good
Wear Tolerance Poor Good- excellent Poor Good-excellent Poor Good-excellent
Nematode Tolerance Very good Poor Poor Good Good Good
Maintenance Level Low Cultivar Dependent Low High Medium Medium-High
Medium-High
Establishment Methods Seed, sod Sod, sprigs, Seed, sod, Sod, plugs, Sod, plugs, Sod, plugs,
plugs, seed sprigs, plugs sprigs, seed sprigs sprigs, seed
,
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200B
O:::J compacted by construction activity? Does the site con-
a tain low fertility subsoils brought in for fill? Is the site
irrigated? Can it be easily mowed? Is it shaded or in
~ full sun? Will it be shaded in a few years? What is the
quality and the expected quantity of the water available
for irrigation? What pests are prevalent in the area? Are
pest-resistant cultivars available? Reclaimed water may
contain high levels of chloride, leading to salt accumu-
lation in the soil. When planning or renovating a land-
scape, check with the reclaimed water provider regard-
ing chloride levels, and if necessary choose plants that
are salt-tolerant.
SELECTING TREES, SHRUBS, AND GROUND COVERS
The plants selected should be suited to the characteristics
of the site that were determined during an earlier site
analysis. Good landscape design requires that plants serve
particular functions. They should reduce cooling and
heating costs and improve the appearance or usefulness
of the landscape. Plants should be selected and positioned
to provide a transition between the structure and the
landscape, a screen for privacy, shade for comfort, and
wildlife habitat, or to direct traffic flow onto and within
the property. Select plants that will not outgrow their
allotted space. Even though smaller cultivars of landscape
plants may take longer to reach the desirable size, they
will not have to be pruned as frequently and are less like-
ly to need replacing in a few years.
See http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/index.html for informa-
tion on individual plants.
PLANTING
PREPARING TO PLANT A LAWN
Proper soil preparation before grass planting is critical to
ensure the establishment of quality turf. Preparation
determines how quickly the lawn becomes established
and its long-term maintenance requirements. The general
guidelines for preparing to plant a lawn are as follows:
. Call 811 before you dig (or 800-432-4770 or
www.callsunshine.com)-before installing any and/or
all plant material.
. Clean and rough grade-remove debris and level the
area to make it suitable for mowing.
. Install irrigation-if you are including an irrigation
system, install it prior to planting.
· Soil analysis-determine soil pH and phosphorus
and potassium concentrations. Contact your county
Cooperative Extension Service for information on how
to do this.
. Soil amendments-add these prior to planting if you need
to improve the soil's physical and chemical properties.
· Deep tillage-this loosens compacted soil and improves
the establishment of turf. Tilling sand is unnecessary.
· Weed control-use a nonselective herbicide such as
glyphosate to aid in weed control before planting.
Several applications may be necessary.
· Final grading-a final leveling makes mowing easier
and safer.
For more information, see Preparing To Plant a Florida
Lawn, IFAS Publication ENH-02, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.
edu/LH012.
LANDSCAPE PLANT INSTALLATION
Before digging the hole, 1) remove all soil from above
the topmost root, and 2) measure the distance between
the topmost root and the bottom of the root ball. Dig the
hole about 10 percent shallower than this depth and as
wide as possible (at least one and a half times the width
of the ball and even wider in compacted soils). The root
ball should be positioned in the hole shallowly enough
so that the finished grade of the backfill soil and land-
scape soil is lower than the top of the root ball. In
other words, leave the upper portion of the sides of the
root ball exposed to the air. Then apply mulch so that it
covers the sides of the root ball. Be sure that when you
are finished planting, there is NO SOIL, and little or no
mulch, over the top of the root ball. Soil (as well as
thick mulch layers more than 3 or 4 inches deep) over
the root ball can prevent water and air from entering the
root ball.
When finished planting, you should be able to see the
topmost root in the root ball originating from the trunk at
the soil surface. In other words, the trunk flare (root
flare) should be visible. Soil should be packed firmly
between the root ball and existing soil to eliminate air
pockets where roots can dry out. Air pockets can be
removed when planting large specimens by inserting a
running hose between the root ball-soil interface several
times until all the soil settles around the root ball.
CARE DURING PLANT ESTABLISHMENT
Even the healthiest landscape plants installed in the most
ideal circumstances may need a substantial amount of
time, care, and proper irrigation to become established.
During the establishment period, the roots are expanding
out into the landscape soil, and the shoots and trunk
grow more slowly than they did before transplanting. In
most instances, established, drought-tolerant landscape
plants have a root system substantial enough to keep
them alive with little or no supplemental irrigation.
Establishment occurs more rapidly when irrigation is
supplied in the correct quantity and frequency.
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In addition to requiring special attention to irrigation,
during their establishment period trees benefit from
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
mulching and may require staking or guying. Pruning
and fertilizing may also benefit landscape plants while
they are becoming established.
For more information, see the following:
IFAS Publication ENH 860, Fertilization and Irrigation
Needs for Florida Lawns and Landscapes, at http://edis.ifas.
ufl.edu/EP11O.
IFAS Publication ENH 857, Irrigating Landscape Plants
During Establishment, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EPl13.
IFAS Circular 853, Pruning Landscape Trees and Shrubs, at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG087.
IFAS tree pruning website, Pruning Shade Trees in the
Landscape, at http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruningl.
ENVIRONMENTAL STRESSES ON LAWNS
Florida lawn grasses are subjected to many environmen-
tal stresses as a result of prolonged exposure to shade,
drought, nutrient deficiency, the effects of vehicle and
foot traffic, salinity, and occasional cold temperatures.
Biotic stresses result from living organisms such as
insects, diseases, or nematodes.
Environmental stresses can be managed in two ways: 1)
choosing the most stress-tolerant species or cultivar for
a particular area, and 2) using proper cultural and man-
agement practices to alleviate the effects of the stress.
Practices that reduce environmental stresses include the
following:
· Moderating nitrogen fertility. Nitrogen encourages
the plant to form new tissue and grow. When nitro-
gen is applied in excess, more energy reserves are
used to form new tissue than can be replaced by pho-
tosynthesis, and the grass becomes more vulnerable to
stresses. less reserves are then available for recovery
from, or avoidance of other problems.
· Mowing at proper heights. Mowing below recom-
mended heights removes a large portion of the shoot
tissue available for photosynthesis. This leaves the
grass less able to support itself or recover from injury.
· Irrigating when the grass needs water. Over irrigat-
ing leads to the failure of many lawns by increasing
fungal problems and limiting the root system to the
top few inches of soil.
Many environmental stresses lead to increased disease or
insect problems, which are often treated chemically
without changing the cultural practices that initially
caused the problem. Chemical treatment in these cases
will not take care of the problem until the cultural fac-
tors are handled correctly.
SHADE CONSIDERATIONS FOR TURF
Most landscapes include shaded areas, with shade coming
from either trees or buildings. This shade can drastically
affect turfgrass growth, depending on the degree and
duration of shade. In many landscape settings, grass
receives a minimum amount of light for enough of the
day to maintain adequate growth, even if an area is shad-
ed for other portions of the day. In some situations, how-
ever, a grassed area may be shaded for most or all of the
day, making it difficult for the grass to obtain either an
adequate intensity or duration of light for growth.
Under shaded conditions, turfgrasses have elongated leaf
blades and stems as they attempt to obtain sunlight by
outgrowing their neighbors. This reduces their overall
health and vigor. Coverage is also reduced, and the bare
ground that results is conducive to weed growth. It is
generally not advisable to grow turfgrass in heavy shade.
Other ground covers or mulch should be used in these
sites. For areas receiving moderate amounts of shade,
however, certain species and cultivars are able to main-
tain suitable growth. Specific management practices
also encourage better turfgrass health under shaded
conditions.
Some species are particularly well suited for use in shad-
ed areas. Within these species, certain cultivars some-
times maintain considerable advantages when grown in a
shaded environment. These species and cuItivars include
the following:
St. Augustinegrass is somewhat better than others for
growth in partial shade, although it also performs well in
full sunlight. CuItivars that exhibit the most shade toler-
ance include 'Seville' and 'Delmar.' 'Flora tam,' 'Floratine,'
and 'Floralawn' exhibit somewhat less shade tolerance.
Zoysiagrass is another good choice for partially shaded
areas. like St. Augustinegrass, it also does well in full
sunlight. Generally, any cuItivar of zoysiagrass performs
well in partial shade.
Bahiagrass is not recommended for use in shaded condi-
tions, but centipedegrass tolerates some partial shade.
Seashore paspalum and bermudagrass do not do well in
shaded situations.
The following management practices produce better turf-
grass growth in shaded situations:
· Increase the mowing height for grasses growing in the
shade. For instance, if you normally cut St. Augustine-
grass at a 3-inch height, increase the cutting height to 4
inches. This allows for more leaf area to intercept as
much available light as possible. In addition, leaf blades
are longer and narrower in the shade, and a lower cut-
ting height excessively reduces leaf length, which is not
good for the grass. Increased mowing height also
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
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promotes deeper rooting, which is one of the key
mechanisms of stress tolerance for turfgrasses.
· Reduce fertilizer applications to turf growing in
shade. The grass grows more slowly in a shaded envi-
ronment, which reduces fertility needs. Too much
nitrogen fertilizer depletes carbohydrates and produces
a weaker turf system. If you normally apply 4 pounds
of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet yearly, apply 2.5 to 3
pounds to turf growing in the shade. limit any single
fertility application to no more than 0.5 pounds of
nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at anyone time.
· Water use is substantially reduced under shaded con-
ditions, so adjust irrigation accordingly. If the irriga-
tion system covers an area that is partially shaded and
partially in sun, consider removing the sprinkler heads
from the shaded areas and irrigate by hand when rain-
fall is inadequate.
· Avoid the effects of vehicle and foot traffic. The grass
is more easily injured by traffic if growing in shade,
and may not be able to recover adequately. Also, traffic
in shady areas may damage a tree's roots, resulting in
the decline or death of the tree.
. Monitor for weed pressure. Weeds are able to outcom-
pete turf in certain situations, and will seek out those
opportunities. In a shaded environment, lateral turf-
grass growth and ground cover may be sparse, leaving
bare ground suitable for certain weeds. Treatment with
a pre- or post-emergence herbicide may be necessary.
Use caution, however, when applying any chemical
treatment to a shaded lawn, as there is a greater chance
of phytotoxicity (toxicity to plants) when a grass is
under stress. Also, many herbicides can damage land-
scape trees and shrubs.
· Monitor for disease pressure. In many shaded environ-
ments, there is less air movement and more humidity,
which may increase the possibility of disease. Again,
use caution if applying pesticides to a turf that is
already under environmental stress.
In particularly troublesome areas, consider other ground
covers besides turf. Examples include ivies (Hedera spp.) ,
liriope (Liriope spp.) , mondo grass (Ophiopogon spp.), and
Asiatic jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum).
Remember, the key to a successful landscape is "Right
Plant, Right Place."
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FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Woter Resources by the Green Industries
Chapter 3: I rrigation Best Management Practices
Using proper irrigation system design, installation,
management, and maintenance practices provides a
multitude of benefits. These benefits include saving
money, using irrigation efficiently, a healthy and more
drought and pest-resistant landscape, and protecting the
state's water resources. Green Industry workers need to
be aware of the different irrigation processes and system
components because irrigation is a major factor in the
success of their industry. By understanding the irriga-
tion system, they can save the company and the client
money and help protect ground water supplies and
water quality.
This section of the document includes background infor-
mation and irrigation BMPs for the Green Industry.
Some of the BMPs mentioned are not usually considered
the responsibility of mowing and trimming services or
route based service businesses. However, many Green
Industry workers, who may be directly employed by
property owners, associations or municipalities, are often
responsible for operation and maintenance of an irriga-
tion system. For complete BMPs specific to the Irrigation
Industry please refer to:
· Florida Irrigation Association (www.fisstate.org)
· Irrigation Association (www.irrigation.org)
· The University of Florida's Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) (http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/)
Irrigation is an age-old art and is defined as the applica-
tion of supplemental water to a soil for plant growth. It
also provides a mechanism for nutrients to move from the
soil into a plant. Other uses include salt leaching, chemi-
gation, system flushing, seed germination, and climate
modification.
On average, Florida receives more than 50 inches of rain
per year. However, the distribution and amounts of this
rainfall are not always adequate to meet a plant's water
demands. Providing the amount of water that a plant
needs at the correct time is the key to resource conserva-
tion, reduced pollutant loading, and optimum plant
growth.
This chapter describes irrigation concepts to help explain
the fundamentals of good irrigation. The green industry
can use this information to assist them in their daily
operations and to help their clients to save water, improve
plant health and reduce the flushing of fertilizer nutrients
from a plant's root zone. In addition, this chapter identi-
fies specific irrigation BMPs for the Green Industry.
Throughout the chapter, the term "plant" refers to both
turf and landscape plants, including trees.
PERMITTING AND REGULATIONS
Many agencies have jurisdiction over an irrigation
project before, during, and after construction. For
example, Florida's five water management districts,
Florida Department of Health, Florida Department of
Environmental Protection, or local governments may
require well permits. Typically, for large projects the
water management districts issue water use permits,
which are usually calculated for drought conditions
rather than for normal irrigation. To prevent potential
fines, it is important to identify and abide by all regula-
tory requirements.
Besides water use permits, some water management
districts have special year-round water conservation
measures and drought/water shortage restrictions that
govern the amount and timing of irrigation. It is impor-
tant to know the restrictions for a site and to set
timers/controllers to those conditions. Since water
shortage restrictions change with the severity of a
drought, it is important to be aware of and to abide by
current restrictions. If a site's irrigation system cannot
be adjusted to meet the restrictions, the system should
be upgraded as soon as possible, but in the interim,
there are methods to obtain variances. These variances
need to be obtained in writing, before irrigating.
Since 1991, Florida Law has required an operating
rain-activated cutoff switch on all automatically
controlled irrigation systems. In 2004, the Florida
legislature created section 373.228 Florida Statutes
directing the Department of Environmental Protection,
373.62 Water conservation; automatic sprinkler systems.
Any person who purchases and installs an automatic lawn
sprinkler system after May 1, 1991, shall install, and must
maintain and operate, a rain sensor device or switch that
will override the irrigation cycle of the sprinkler system
when adequate rainfall has occurred.
the Water Management Districts, and several stakeholder
groups to devise standards for Landscape Irrigation and
Florida-Friendly landscape design. These standards were
adopted in December 2006. Local governments must use
these standards when adopting local ordinances after that
date. The irrigation standards are based on Appendix F
of the Florida Building code. See the shadow box in the
Irrigation Design section for more details.
The following permitting and regulatory guidelines
should be followed for all irrigation projects:
· Contact local and state regulatory agencies (such as
the county, city, Florida Department of Environmental
Department of Environmentol Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
Protection, water management districts, and health
lo.Qdepartment) to determine current irrigation regula-
o tions and criteria.
..... Obtain all permits before construction.
· Abide by all permit conditions and current water
restrictions when operating the irrigation system.
· Obtain any desired regulatory variances before
irrigating.
The use of irrigation BMPs promotes proper irrigation
system design, construction, and management. This
leads to reduced water use, the protection of aquatic
resources, better plant development, economic savings to
the end user, and efficient fertilizer use. Irrigation knowl-
edge and education is a critical part of meeting the intent
of the Green Industry's irrigation BMPs.
RECLAIMED WATER USE
Many urban areas use reclaimed wastewater for their irri-
gation water source. While this offers many benefits, it
also can lead to landscaping and pollution problems if not
properly managed. Nutrient levels in reclaimed water may
vary by a factor of 10 or more, depending on the treat-
ment plant supplying the water. Contact the supplier to
get information on nutrient content. When applying fer-
tilizers to a site that irrigates with reclaimed water, con-
sider the amount of nutrients in the water, and reduce
fertilization appropriately. Reclaimed water may contain
high levels of chloride, leading to salt accumulation in
the soil. Additional considerations, such as water for
flushing salts, may be needed.
Nutrient pollution may occur if the user over-irrigates,
because both reclaimed water that runs off on the surface,
and the water and nutrients that move below the root
zone, are lost. Maintenance of a high level of distribution
uniformity is critical to prevent leaching of these nutri-
ents. Irrigation managers should also pay close attention
to all cross-connection controls and backflow prevention
devices. All reclaimed water piping, heads, valves, fix-
tures, etc. are required by law to be color-coded purple,
and labeled "Do not drink this water." As long as field
capacity is not exceeded when irrigating, reclaimed water
is a safe and reliable irrigation source.
IRRIGATION SYSTEM DESIGN
Irrigation system design is a complex issue and should
be performed by trained professionals. These profession-
als should use existing standards and criteria, as well as
the manufacturer's recommendations, to design the most
appropriate system for a location. In addition to the
Landscape Irrigation and Florida-Friendly Design
Standards, a list of sources for current standards and
criteria can be found at the end of this chapter. Many
communities require construction and design docu-
ments and permits that require the signature and seal of
a registered design professional. Members of the Green
Industry should be able to visually identify system
design problems to help their clients irrigate more
efficiently, save water, reduce the need to add fertilizers
or other chemical treatments, and improve plant health
and water quality.
The irrigation design for a site depends on a number of
factors including location, soils, landscape vegetation,
water supply, and water quality. An irrigation system
needs to be designed to meet a site's peak water require-
ments. In addition, to prevent irrigation runoff, a
system's application rate must not exceed the ability of
the soil to absorb and retain the water applied during
anyone application. The irrigation system should also
have enough flexibility to adapt to various water
demands and local restrictions.
Design operating pressure must not exceed the source
pressure. The design operating pressure should account
for low pressure during periods of high use (Le., morn-
ings) and for project buildout when all of a develop-
ment's landscaping is in place. Plants should be grouped
in irrigation zones based on similar water use require-
ments. Irrigation systems designed to service both turf
and landscape areas should have enough zones to meet
each area's individual water needs. In some regions, the
irrigation design should account for the extra water
required to periodically leach salt buildups that may
accumulate due to high chloride levels in some sources
of irrigation water.
An irrigation system consists of three main components:
water supply (consisting of a water source, pump, fil-
ters, and valves), water conveyance (made up of a main-
line, manifold, lateral, and spaghetti tubes) and a distri-
bution device (such as an impact sprinkler, oscillating
sprinkler, rotary sprinkler, spray, or drip emitter). The
proper design and installation of these components opti-
mizes their use and decreases any off-site impacts.
Irrigation design must also account for different site
characteristics, such as soils and topography.
Hand-moved irrigation systems should have enough
flexibility to provide sufficient coverage (see the
manufacturer's recommendations) after each move.
Microirrigation systems for shrubs and other landscape
plants should be designed to cover at least 50 percent
of the root systems. Microirrigation is rarely used for
turf in Florida, and is prohibited in some places, but if
used should be designed to cover 100 percent of the
grass's root system.
To provide for peak water demands and have enough
flexibility to reduce supply for different demand require-
ments, irrigation systems need to be designed with vari-
ous control devices, rain shut-off devices, and backflow
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Woter Resources by the Green Industries
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prevention. Water conveyance systems should be
designed with devices to protect against blowouts. The
water conveyance pipelines should provide the system
with the appropriate pressure required for maximum irri-
gation efficiency, uniformity, and the distribution devices
should be designed for optimum uniform coverage. In
addition, the distribution system should not include the
irrigation of non-planted areas (such as driveways, park-
ing lots, roads, sidewalks, underneath roof overhangs,
and natural buffer zones).
r
To ensure optimum uniformity, permanent irrigation
sprinklers, spray jets, and other distribution devices
should be spaced according to the manufacturers'
recommendations. Typically, this spacing is based on
average wind conditions and operating pressures during
irrigation.
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SQUARE SPACING
TRIANGULAR SPACING
Figure 5. Sprinkler layouts.
If site-specific wind conditions are different than pub-
lished averages, check with the local IFAS extension
office, USDA NRCS or the Florida Irrigation Society for
their recommendations. Table 2 is provided as a general
guideline. Spacing should not exceed the percentages in
the table below. After the system is constructed and
operating, periodic "catch can" uniformity tests should be
performed (see the section on Irrigation Maintenance
later in this chapter) to ensure that the system is continu-
ing to function as designed.
Table 2. Irrigation Spacing
Wind Square Coverage Triangular Coverage
Miles Per Percentage of
Hour Diameter of Coverage
0-5' 55% 60%
5-10 50% 55%
10+ 45% 50%
. For many locations, the 0-5 mph wind condition occurs very
infrequently and this spacing recommendation should only be used
after careful consideration and site investigation.
MICROIRRIGATlON FOR LANDSCAPE PLANTS
When designed and operated correctly, microirrigation,
also known as drip or low-volume irrigation, is one of
the most efficient methods of irrigation. It is highly
manageable and provides small quantities of water
directly to the plant's root zone. Low-pressure sprin-
klers, sprayers or drippers are also known as emitters,
and they slowly release water into the soil around a
plant. This saves water because only the main feeder
roots receive water, and less water evaporates from the
surface of the soil.
Typically, with drip irrigation in a sandy soil, water
moves laterally only IO to 12 inches. Drip irrigation is
ideal when such precision is desirable or for narrow
strip plantings, such as hedgerows. Because of the
nature and location of drip irrigation it is difficult to
determine if the emitters are providing enough water.
Visual inspection of the landscape may identify clogging
(dry spots, dead plants, and wilted plants) or excessive
watering (soggy soil, weeds, excessive plant growth)
problems from a drip irrigation system.
Overall, spray-jets (either microsprayers or microsprin-
klers) are more desirable than drip emitters for most
landscape applications. This is because they cover larg-
er areas and have fewer clogging problems. Clogging
and excess water problems can be seen either by careful
examination of the irrigation system or by looking at the
landscape. Spray jets should not be designed or operated
to irrigate non-planted areas
Regardless of the type of microirrigation system,
clogging can be a problem if the water supply is not
filtered before entering the irrigation system or if the
filtration system is not cleaned. The safest and easiest
way to maintain the emitters in a microirrigation system
is to keep a small supply of clean backups on hand.
Department of Environmentol Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200811
Clogged devices can be easily replaced with clean units,
then placed in a small container of the cleaning fluid
appropriate for the clogging material. Replacement
Cl:Jmitters should always have the same operating charac-
~teristics (i.e., operating pressure and discharge rate) as
~he original emitters.
...,
For more information, see the following:
IFAS Fact Sheet AE-254, Microirrigation in the Landscape,
at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE076.
IFAS Bulletin 333, Flushing Procedures for Microirrigation
Systems, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/WI013.
1
Turf and Landscape Irrigation Best Management
Practices, April 2005. The Irrigation Association, at
http://www.irrigation.org.
f
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From the December 2006 publication Landscape Irrigation and Florida-Friendly Design Standards:
Pursuant to section 373,228, F,S, these landscape and irrigation design Standards shall be used by local governments when
developing landscape irrigation and xeriscape (Florida-Friendly) ordinances,
II. Irrigation System Design Standards
A. Irrigation systems shall be designed to meet the needs of the plants in the landscape (not the other way around).
B. When feasible, irrigation systems shall be designed to separately serve turf and non-turf areas.
C. The irrigation system plans and specifications shall identify the materials to be used and the construction methods.
D. The design shall consider soil, slope, and other site characteristics in order to minimize water waste, including overspray,
the watering of impervious surfaces and other non-vegetated areas, and off-site runoff.
E. The system shall be designed to minimize free Row conditions in case of damage or other mechanical failure.
F. The system shall be designed to use the lowest quality water feasible.
G. Rain switches or other devices, such as soil moisture sensors, to prevent unnecessary irrigation, shall be incorporated.
(Section 373.62, F.S.)
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H. A recommended seasonal operating schedule and average precipitation rates for each irrigation zone for both establish-
ment and maintenance conditions shall be provided.
I. Control systems shall provide the following minimum capabilities:
1) Ability to be programmed in minutes, by day of week, season and time of day,
2) Ability to accommodate multiple start times and programs,
3) Automatic shut off after adequate rainfall,
4) Ability to maintain time during power outages for a minimum of three days, and
5) Operational flexibility to meet applicable year-round water conservation requirements and temporary water shortage
restrictions.
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J. Recommended maintenance activities and schedules shall be included.
K. Precipitation rates for sprinklers and all other emitters in the same zone shall be matched, except that microirrigation emit-
ters may be specified to meet the requirements of individual plants.
L. Irrigation systems shall be designed to maximize uniformity, considering factors such as:
1 ) Emitter types.
2) Head spacing.
3) Sprinkler pattern.
4) Water pressure at the emitter.
M. Irrigation systems with main lines larger than two inches or designed to supply more than seventy gallons per minute shall
incorporate a means to measure irrigation water use, at a minimum of ninety-five percent accuracy across the flow range.
N. Irrigation system plans and specifications shall require the system installer to conduct final testing and adjustments to
achieve design specifications prior to completion of the system and acceptance by the owner or owner's representative.
o Irrigation system plans and specifications shall require that the installer provide property owners and users with post-con-
struction documentation, including as-constructed drawings, recommended maintenance activities and schedules, opera-
tional schedule, design precipitation rates, instructions on adjusting the system to apply less water after the landscape is
established, maintenance schedule, water source, water shut-off method, and the manufacturer's operational guide for
their irrigation controller. To the extent feasible, similar information should be made available for subsequent property
transfers.
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IRRIGATION SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Only professionals who are trained, certified, appropriate-
ly licensed for irrigation installation by the appropriate
agency, bonded, and insured should handle irrigation
installation. These individuals must follow the designer's
plans and use recognized standards and criteria such as
those promulgated by the American Society of
Agricultural and Biological Engineers (ASABE, formerly
ASAE), Florida Irrigation Society (FlS), Irrigation
Association CIA), US Department of Agriculture Natural
Resources Conservation Service (NRCS), or the manufac-
turer's recommendations. The designer must approve any
changes to the design.
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To prevent system failures, waste, and property damage,
construction materials must meet appropriate standards,
such as those from ASABE, the American Society of Civil
Engineers (ASCE), or the American Society of Testing
Materials (ASTM). Plan all construction practices accord-
ing to standard safety practices. Before construction, the
contractor should identify and flag all underground pipes,
cables, and other elements. Call before you dig. Call 811
(or 800-432-4770 or www.callsunshine.com) for free
Sunshine State One Call locator service. The contractor
should clean the site of any construction materials before
the job is complete and at the end of construction, pro-
vide the owner with a copy of the as-built plans, operat-
ing manuals, recommended operating schedules for both
plant establishment and supplemental irrigation of
mature plants, and warranties. For new construction, the
job should include a follow-up site visit to reset the con-
troller, rain shut off device, and soil moisture sensor (if
installed) after the landscape is established.
IRRIGATION MANAGEMENT
Irrigation management (knowing when and how much
to irrigate) is the cornerstone of water conservation and
reducing nonpoint source pollution. It encompasses the
amount of water applied and the frequency of applica-
tion. To prevent excess water use that could lead to
chemical leaching and runoff, fungal infestation, and
disease; irrigation scheduling should take into account
plant water requirements, recent rainfall, recent temper-
ature extremes, and soil characteristics. In addition, the
irrigation system must be properly designed and main-
tained, so that all of the plants in a given zone receive
the same amount of water. See the Irrigation
Maintenance section of this chapter for information
about measuring distribution uniformity.
Under ideal conditions, the water required for a plant is
equal to the water used during plant growth. This water
goes to soil evaporation and plant transpiration. Typically,
both processes are combined and called evapotranspira-
tion (ET).
A plant's water requirements (ET) vary with its growth
cycle and climatic conditions. The limiting ET factors are
the amount of soil moisture to be transpired by the plant,
solar energy reaching the plant (affected by latitude,
season, cloud cover, and shade), the temperature and
relative humidity of the air, and wind speed. If a soil is at
field capacity, 100% canopy coverage is present to absorb
radiation, and other factors are equal, the amount of water
transpired varies little between plant types. Plant irrigation
requirements will differ based on a plant's ability to extract
soil moisture (i.e., root zone depth) and its physiological
ability to deal with reduced availability of moisture.
Plants require more water during seed, flower, and fruit
production, but will not require very much when they are
dormant. During the colder months, or those with shorter
periods of daylight, most turfgrasses and landscape plants
are not actively growing, thus use less soil moisture and
may not require irrigation.
Many established, drought-tolerant landscape trees and
shrubs require little or no irrigation, provided the soils do
not obstruct root development. Plants such as azaleas,
copperleaf, impatiens, or other bedding plants that lack
drought tolerance may require irrigation during extended
drought periods.
In humid regions such as Florida, irrigation is considered
supplemental because it supplements natural rainfall.
Proper irrigation management must account for rainfall.
Since rainfall varies from location to location, the proper use
of rain gauges, rain shut-off devices, 110w meters, soil mois-
ture sensors, ancl/or other irrigation management devices
should be incorporated into the site's irrigation schedule.
Using an irrigation schedule can help prevent wasteful
over-irrigation, the leaching of fertilizers/pesticides, and
promote root development for drought conditions. No
more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water should be applied for a
single irrigation event. The exact amount of irrigation
needed for each event will depend on a plants needs for
growth, fruiting, dormancy for that time of year and soil
characteristics (soil moisture, infiltration rates, soil root
zone depth and water holding capacities). In addition,
water management districts and local requirements should
be considered before irrigating. A properly working,
installed and calibrated rain shutoff device prevents the
irrigation system from turning on if adequate rainfall has
occurred. Rain shutoff devices are required by law on all
automatic irrigation systems built after 1991.
Irrigation management and control devices need to be
installed correctly for proper irrigation management.
Rain shut-off devices and rain gauges should be placed
in open areas to prevent erroneous readings. Flow meters
should have a straight enough run of pipe both down-
stream and upstream to prevent turbulence and bad
readings. Soil moisture sensors and other irrigation
management tools should be installed in representative
locations and be maintained to help make good irrigation
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200811
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management decisions. When mechanical/electronic
devices are not available for irrigation management, the
following visual indicators should be used as guidelines
to determine the need for irrigation:
· The grass has a dull, bluish-gray coloring.
· Foot tracks remain in the grass.
· Leaf blades are folded in half on at least one-third of
the site.
· Soil samples from the root zone are dry and crumbly.
· Indicator landscape plants (such as impatiens and azal-
eas) have drooping leaves.
There are several ways to prevent excess irrigation.
Visual observations of runoff or puddles are simple indi-
cations. A system's timer/clock/controller can be adjusted
to meet a plant's seasonal water requirements. Flow
meters can be used to determine how much water is
applied and when to turn off the irrigation system. Rain
gauges, cans, or other containers can be used to measure
how much water has been applied.
Rain shutoff devices, which, as mentioned earlier, are
already required by law on all automatic systems installed
since 1991, can save up to 30% or more over a timer-only
system. However, many systems that should have sensors
do not, either because they were not installed as required
or because they have failed or been removed. Those who
are responsible for overseeing an irrigation system should
check the operation of the rain shutoff device at least once
per year, and replace the unit if it is not operating correct-
ly. Other workers who may notice a system irrigating
shortly after a good rain event should attempt to notify
their client of a possible problem with the rain shut off
device so they can have it repaired.
One of the most effective and efficient methods of
irrigation control is the use of properly installed and
maintained soil moisture sensors with a specialized
controller. There are two basic types of systems, direct
control, where soil moisture sensors actually call for
irrigation; and bypass control, where regularly scheduled
irrigations are bypassed if sufficient moisture is present.
Direct control systems are more expensive and require
considerable management expertise, such as may be
present at a golf course. Bypass systems are much less
expensive and easier to install. Most bypass systems
work with the existing controller.
Although soil moisture levels are the preferred method to
determine irrigation quantities, in the absence of soil
data, calculated ET methods may be used. Current
calculated potential evapotranspiration (ETp) rates are
available at http://fawn.ifas.ufl.edu.This site also includes
a landscape irrigation scheduling tool and rainfall data.
Rainfall can make up some or all of the ET, especially
during the cooler months. Total rainfall is not the same as
effective rainfall. Florida soils generally have low water
holding capacity, so a two-inch rain may have little more
effect on reducing landscape irrigation than a typical irri-
gation event in any given month.
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An alternative irrigation scheduling method often used by
homeowners and on some commercial landscapes is to
assume that on average 1 inch of water wets the top 12
inches of a sandy soil. Typically most roots grow in the
top 6-12 inches of soil, and 1/2 to 3/4 inch is needed for
replenishment of moisture every 2 to 3 days during warm
periods of active growth, and every 10 to 14 days during
less active growth periods. This water can come from
rainfall or be provided by the irrigation system. Again,
soil characteristics (infiltration rates and water holding
capacities) water management districts and local require-
ments should be considered before irrigating.
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Another method of irrigation scheduling and timer or
controller adjustments for sites without specific informa-
tion is to use the weekly ET values in Figure 6 as a
general guideline. The graph divides the state into north-
ern and southern regions roughly around Interstate 1-4.
Weekly ET
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0.5
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Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Noy Dee
1- North of Interstate 1-4 -- South of Interstate 1-41
Figure 6. Approximate weekly evapotranspiration (ET).
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Although irrigation management is a complex process,
it can be boiled down to a simple checkbook (or water
balance) process, where the irrigation amount consists
of the difference between a plant's need for water and
the effective rainfall (rainfall stored in a plant's root zone,
for plant use). When possible, the timing of an irrigation
event should be planned to increase irrigation efficiency,
by reducing evaporative losses due to climatic conditions
(for example, high temperature, low humidity, windy con-
ditions) and by maintaining high irrigation uniformity.
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Several irrigation management techniques help to
improve a plant's health and reduce water use. Delayed
irrigation and deficit irrigation promote root development
and provide a level of drought tolerance. Delayed irriga-
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FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
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tion promotes deeper root development by postponing
irrigation until wilt is observed. Deficit irrigation calls for
managing irrigation quantities so that there is always soil
storage to take advantage of any possible rainfall.
When leaching salts, which is necessary in some soils due
to poor water quality, always wait until the nutrient level
in the soil is depleted to avoid leaching of fertilizer nutri-
ents with the salt.
For more information, see the following:
IFAS Publication ENH 158, Tips for Maintaining Landscapes
During Drought, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP091.
IFAS Circular 807, Managing Your Florida Lawn Under
Drought Conditions, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP078.
Field Guide to Soil Moisture Sensor Use in Florida, at
http://www.sjrwmd.com/floridawa ters tar/pdfs/SMS field
guide. pdf.
IRRIGATION SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
Proper maintenance extends the life of an irrigation
system and helps it to perform optimally. Maintenance
begins with a visual observation of the system and the
plants. Check for proper functioning of rain sensors and
controllers, leaks, broken/cracked lines, proper rotation,
and damaged sprinkler heads. Also, check for obstacles
that may interfere with irrigation uniformity. Brown spots,
unnaturally green grass, certain types of weeds, and soggy
spots are indicators of problems. Many types of business-
es do not have control over the irrigation system, nor the
expertise or contractual duty to address irrigation issues,
but every effort should be made to inform the client when
problems are noted and to explain the importance of
proper operation and prompt repairs.
Damaged or defective systems should be repaired as
soon as possible. Replacement parts should always have
the same characteristics (that is, discharge-pressure rela-
tionship, jet size/colors) as the original components.
Otherwise, the replacement might cause more harm
than the bad component.
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Evaluating a system's uniformity and efficiency (an irriga-
tion audit) reduces water use and fertilizer/pesticide leach-
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ing. There are many procedures (such as NRCS, IFAS,
ASABE, lA, and FlS) for irrigation system evaluation, all of
which can be traced to a process published by Miriam and
Keller. By following any of these methods, you can ensure
that a system is operating at optimum levels.
Common irrigation efficiency problems include leaks,
sprinkler head plugging, poor irrigation uniformity caused
by nozzle wear, and poor system pressure. Some problems
(such as repairing leaks and replacing nozzles) can be
repaired at a minimal cost, while others (such as poor sys-
tem design) might, at first glance, be very costly, but will
payoff in the end. Problems need to be corrected as soon
as possible to prevent wasted water and the leaching of
fertilizers and other chemicals. In the long term, the
investment made to improve the irrigation system pays off
in reduced fertilizer, chemical and water bills.
Distribution Uniformity is a measurement of how evenly
water is distributed over a given area, and should be con-
sidered when managing irrigation. This measurement is
an indication of the system's hydraulic performance and
can be used to identify deep percolation. Typically distri-
bution uniformity is identified with the infiltration of the
lowest 25% (low quarter) of irrigated area and can be
determined by a "catch can" test. Baby-food jars, tuna
cans, or other straight-sided containers are evenly placed
around sprinklers. The system is turned on for a fixed
amount of time, and the water collected in each container
is measured and recorded.
The Distribution Uniformity, which is a percentage, is cal-
culated by dividing the average depth of water collected
in the lowest 25% of containers with the average depth of
water in all the containers. This is multiplied by 100 to
convert the value into a percentage. The Irrigation
Association has published a range and rating of distribu-
tion uniformities for different irrigation methods. Recent
work in Florida indicates that most landscape irrigation
systems are below these published values.
Higher uniformities occur when spacing is adequate and
sprinkler nozzles are matched. Poor application unifor-
mity leads to localized over irrigation or under irrigation,
brown spots in the grass, fertilizer or pesticide leaching
or runoff, and the waste of irrigation water. Many of
these problems can be solved and the site's owner can
Table 3: Irrigation Association Distribution Uniformities
Rating of Lower Quarter Distribution Uniformity (DULQ) for Sprinkler Zones
Type of Zone Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
(%) (%) (%) (%) (%)
Fixed Spray 75 65 55 50 40
Rotor 80 70 65 60 50
Impact 80 70 65 60 65
Predicting and Estimating Landscape Water Use. The Irrigation Association, Oct. 2001.
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Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200811I
reduce water costs. Distribution uniformity is not a
CQneasurement of irrigation efficiency. For more informa-
Otion, see IFAS Publication AE 144, Turf Irrigation for the
Home, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE144.
....,
For micro irrigation systems, Emission Uniformity is
used instead of Distribution Uniformity to determine the
uniformity of irrigation. Emission Uniformity is calculat-
ed by comparing the volume of water from the emitters
to the statistical differences in the total volume. An
Emission Uniformity of 90% or higher is considered
excellent. For more information, see IFAS Publication
AE094, Field Evaluation of Microirrigation Water
Application Uniformity, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE094.
Water Application Efficiency is a component of irrigation
system efficiency and indicates how well a system is
providing water to the plant's root system. Irrigation
Application Efficiency is another form of irrigation system
efficiency and it compares the amount of water delivered
to an area by the amount of water beneficially used.
To help with irrigation efficiency, water management dis-
tricts or other local agencies may provide mobile irriga-
tion lab (MIL) services. MIL staff will evaluate an irriga-
tion system and make recommendations to improve sys-
tem efficiency and help with irrigation scheduling.
Contact your local water management district for more
information about these services in your area.
Irrigation requirements represent the amount of water an
irrigation system needs to apply to meet a plant's water
needs. This quantity is a function of the plant's water
requirements, soil moisture, and the system's efficiency.
For more information, see IFAS Publication AEllO,
Efficiencies of Florida Agricultural Irrigation Systems, at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AEIIO.
IRRIGATION SYSTEM ERRORS
The following figures depict some examples of improper
irrigation system design or installation.
Figure 7. Poor design; sprinkler does
not match area.
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Woter Resources by the Green Industries
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Figure 8. Poor design; system does not match irrigation requirements.
The area needs to be rezoned with landscape and turf separated.
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Figure 9. Overirrigation, runoff. Small turf area should be irrigated
with spray heads, not sprinklers.
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Figure 10. Object is interfering with spray pattern, resulting in poor
distribution uniformity
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SOURCES FOR IRRIGATION STANDARDS
The following publications contain current irrigation
standards:
· Landscape Irrigation and Florida-Friendly Design
Standards, December 2006, Florida Department of
Environmental Protection. http://www.dep.state.f1.us/
wa ter/wa terpo licy/docs/LandscapeIrriga tionFlorida
FriendlyDesign. pdf.
Figure 11. Water gushing from broken head.
. ASABE Standards-2007. Standards, engineering
practices, and data developed and adopted by the
American Society of Agricultural and Biological
Engineers. 2007. American Society of Agricultural and
Biological Engineers, 2950 Niles Rd., SL Joseph, MO
49085. Telephone (269) 429-0300. http://www.asabe.
orys tandards/searchpur. h tml.
. Florida Building Code-Plumbing, Appendix F.
International Code Council 900 Montclair Rd.
Birmingham AL, 35213-1206 (205) 599-9871
http://www. floridabuildin g. orgIBClSO Id/bd defa u I Lasp
or http://www.iccsafe.org.
. National Engineering Handbook Series 21O-VI. November
1997. US Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources
Conservation Service, Washington D.C., 20013.
http://directives.sc . egov. usda. gov/.
· Standards and Specifications for Turf and Landscape
Irrigation Systems, Fifth Edition. December 2005. Florida
Irrigation Society, (800) 441-5341, Address: 9340 56th
Street N. Suite 105, Temple Terrace, FL 33617 , Florida.
hup://www.fisstate.orystandardsrevision3.pdf.
· Turf and Landscape Irrigation Best Management Practices,
April 2005. The Irrigation Association. (703) 536-7080,
6540 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church, VA 22042-6638
h up ://www.irrigation.org.
GREEN INDUSTRY IRRIGATION BMPS
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The principal BMPs for all of the Green Industry include:
. Call before you dig. Call 811 for free Sunshine State
One Call locator service.
. When possible, the application of fertilizers, herbi-
cides, or other chemicals that needed to be watered,
should coincide with an irrigation event.
. Proper cultural practices (such as mowing) to promote
healthy, deep root development and reduce irrigation
requirements.
. Account for the nutrients in reclaimed water when
making fertilizer calculations. Knowing the nitrate lev-
els in reclaimed water can reduce your fertilizer pur-
chases. The application of 1 inch of reclaimed water
containing 20 ppm nitrate-Nitrogen adds about 4.5
pounds of nitrogen per acre (lb. N/acre) to the soil.
If you irrigate 40 inches per year, that works out to a
little over 4 lb. per 1,000 square feet.
. Repair any irrigation devices broken while servicing a
site. Replacement parts should have the same charac-
teristics as the original components.
. Visually observe site problems associated with irriga-
tion (i.e., wet, dry spots, excessive weeds in specific
location) or system components (leaks, broken equip-
ment) and report problems to the client.
. When leaching salts, which is necessary in some soils
due to poor water quality, always wait until the nutri-
ent level in the soil is depleted to avoid leaching of
fertilizer nutrients with the salt.
Additional BMPs for those with ownership/management
responsibility:
. Group plants by similar water requirements (i.e.,
Hydrozones)
. Irrigation controllers/timers should be reset seasonally
to account for plant growth requirements and local cli-
matic conditions.
. Properly calibrated Row meters, soil moisture sensors,
rain shut-off devices, and/or other automated meth-
ods should be used to manage irrigation.
. Irrigation rates should not exceed the maximum ability
of the soil to absorb and hold the water applied in
anyone application.
. Implement a preventive maintenance program to
replace worn components before they cause water,
fertilizer and chemical waste.
. Perform weekly (or at each site visit) visual inspections
to identify leaks, broken rain sensors or sprinkler
heads, and other system malfunctions.
. Replace or repair all broken or worn components
before the next scheduled irrigation.
. Distribution uniformity should be checked annually.
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200811
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Chapter 4: Mulching, Mowing, and Pruning
LANDSCAPE MULCHES
Mulch is any material applied to the soil surface to pro-
tect or improve the area covered. Mulches are frequently
applied around plants to modify the soil environment and
enhance plant growth. They may consist of organic mate-
rial such as bark, wood chips, leaves, pine needles, or
grass clippings; or they can be inorganic material such as
gravel, pebbles, polyethylene film, or woven ground
cloth. Mulch can be applied to the soil surface but should
not rest against the stems of landscape plants.
BENEFITS OF MULCHING
Mulching has the following beneficial effects on the soil
and plants:
· Mulches can prevent the loss of water from the soil by
evaporation. Moisture moves by capillary action to the
surface and evaporates if the soil is not covered by a
mulch.
· Mulches suppress weeds when the mulch material itself
is weed-free and applied deeply enough (2 to 3 inches
after settling) to prevent weed germination or to
smother existing small weeds.
Figure 12. Mulch, not grass, should be used here.
· A more uniform soil temperature can be maintained by
mulching. The mulch acts as an insulator that keeps
the soil cool under intense sunlight and warm during
cold weather.
. FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Woter Resources by the Green Industries
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Figure 13. Never build volcanoes. This crown will rot and the roots
are smothered.
. Most mulches prevent crusting of the soil surface, thus
improving absorption and percolation of water into the
soil and, at the same time, reducing erosion.
)
· Organic materials used as a mulch can improve soil
structure and tilth. As mulch decays, the material
becomes topsoil. Decaying mulch may also add nutri-
ents to the soil.
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· Mulches add to the beauty of the landscape by provid-
ing a cover of uniform color and an interesting surface
texture.
· Mulched plants produce roots in and directly under the
mulch that surrounds them. The plants produce these
roots in addition to the roots in the soil. As a result,
mulched plants have more roots than plants that are
not mulched.
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For more information, see IFAS Publication ENH 103,
Mulches Jor the Landscape, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG251.
MULCHING BMPS
· When feasible, use mulches made from environmental-
ly friendly sources or recycled materials.
· Do not pile mulch against a tree or around the bases
of shrubs. Burying the crowns can lead to crown and
root rot. Leave a clear space for air to reach the trunk.
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· Maintain a 2"-3" depth of mulch after settling.
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MOWING THE FLORIDA LAWN
Mowing is an important maintenance operation. Mowing
at the correct height increases turf density and root health
and suppresses weeds. A dense turf impedes stormwater
runoff. A healthy root system ensures that water and
nutrients are absorbed and not wasted. Fewer weeds
mean less need for herbicides.
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Clippings contain nutrients and should be recycled on
the lawn. The nutrients in clippings are pollutants when
they end up in stormwater systems and waterbodies.
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Figure 14. This is BAD! Never direct clippings into the street where
they can enter the storm drain system.
Growth rates and mowing height have the most influence
on mowing frequency. As a rule of thumb, mowing should
be done often enough so that no more than one-third of
the leaf blade is removed at anyone mowing. For exam-
ple, if a 51. Augustinegrass lawn is mowed at a height of 3
inches, it should be mowed when it grows to a height of 4
to 4.5 inches. Following this practice minimizes the effect
of mowing on photosynthesis and helps to maintain the
high percentage of leaf surface necessary for healthy root
development. Research shows that returning grass clip-
pings to the surface, sometimes referred to as grass recy-
cling, does not increase thatch buildup on turf. Clippings
have significant nutrient value and decompose rapidly,
returning some fertilizer and organic matter to the soil.
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Figure 15. Always remove clippings from impervious surfaces. These
nutrients are going straight to a water body.
Mowing equipment and string trimmers can damage
trees. Tree trunks that are bumped by mowers, or trees
that are used as pivot points for turns, are injured via
contact. Mechanical damage to trees can cause progres-
sively bigger wounds, since the trees are hit in the same
general area repeatedly over time. The damage eventually
progresses through the phloem, cambium, and xylem of
the tree. In a worst-case scenario, the tree is girdled and
dies. Those trees not killed are stressed and the wounds
end up as an entry point for disease and insect infesta-
tion. The whipping action of the nylon string on a trim-
mer can debark a young tree quickly, causing its demise.
The careful use of string trimmers and mowers in the
landscape is imperative, and there is no reason to use
them around trees. Replacing the grass around the base of
trees with mulch provides a buffer zone. The larger the
mulched area, the less the turf near the tree is stressed by
shade, the more room the lawn mower has to maneuver
with ease, and the less the string trimmer needs to be
used. Mulch also confers other benefits, such as reduced
competition from weeds and water conservation.
The growth habit and leaf width of a turfgrass species
determines the optimum cutting height, frequency, and
preferred mower type (Table 4). A grass that spreads
Table 4: Suggested mowing heights and mower types for Florida home lawns
Turfgrass Species Optimal Mowing Height Mowing Frequency
(inches) (days) Preferred Mower Type
Bahiagrass 3.0-4.0 7-17 Rotary/flail
Bermudagrass 0.5-1.5 3-5 Reel
Centipedegrass 1.0-2.0 10-14 Rotary
Seashore Paspalum 1.0-2.0 5-10 Rotary/reel
St. Augustinegrass, 3.0-4.0 5-14 Rotary
"Dwarfs". 1.5-2.5 5-14 Rotary
Zoysiagrass 1.0-3.0 10-14 Reel
. Dwarf varieties of St. Augustinegrass ('Seville: 'Jade: 'Palmetto: 'Delmar') are the only cultivars of this species that should be mowed at less
than 3 inches.
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008 .
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MOWING BMPS
· Adjust the cutting height by setting the mower on a driveway or sidewalk and using a ruler to measure the distance between
the ground and the blade.
· Do not mow wet turf because it can promote disease and fungus, and clippings can clog the machine. Mow only when the
turf is dry.
· Sharpen the mower blade frequently enough to prevent a ragged appearance to the turf.
· Mow in a different direction every time the lawn is cut. This prevents wear patterns, reduces the grain (grass laying over in the
same direction), and reduces the possibility of scalping.
· Use the highest acceptable mowing height for the grasses being grown.
· Do not remove more than one-third of the foliage at one time.
· Do not direct clippings into bodies of water or onto impervious surfaces. Remove any clippings that are blown onto sidewalks,
driveways, and other impervious areas.
· Do not remove clippings. If clumping occurs, distribute the clippings by re-mowing or by lightly raking. You can also use a
leaf blower to distribute clippings.
· Practice grass recycling and return nutrients to the soil.
· Clean the mower after use to reduce rusting and weed seed movement.
· If you must collect clippings, compost them. Use the compost as a soil modifier or mulch.
· Avoid mechanical damage to trees and shrubs from string trimmers, mowers, and other equipment.
horizontally can usually be mowed shorter than an
upright-growing, bunching grass. Grasses with narrow
blades can generally be mowed closer than grasses with
wide blades. Bermudagrass is mowed at very low heights
because of its numerous narrow leaf blades and low
growth habit. On the other hand, bahiagrass needs to be
mowed higher because of its open, upright growth habit.
Turfgrass undergoes physiological stress with each mow-
ing, particularly if too much leaf tissue is removed. The
effects of this "scalping" can produce long-term damage
to the turf and leave it susceptible to numerous other
stresses, such as insects, disease, drought, and sunscald.
It is always important to leave as much leaf surface as
possible for photosynthesis to provide food for regrowth.
For mowing safety, be sure to follow these tips:
· Pick up all stones, sticks, and other debris before mow-
ing to avoid damaging the mower or injuring someone
with flying objects.
· Never fill a hot mower with gasoline.
· Always wear heavy leather shoes when mowing the
lawn.
· Check your mower every time it is used. Follow the
manufacturer's recommendations for service and
adjustments.
PRUNING OF LANDSCAPE PLANTS
Pruning is another important landscape maintenance
task. Through the selective removal of shoots and
branches, pruning a plant can improve its health,
reduce the risk of failure, control growth, and enhance
fruiting, flowering or appearance. Pruning should be
a part of routine maintenance and should not be
delayed until the landscape is overgrown. However,
close attention should be paid to proper timing,
depending on the needs of various plants. Proper plant
selection can eliminate many pruning requirements,
especially for shrubs.
Trees should not be pruned without a clearly defined
objective. Objectives can include 1) reducing the risk of
failure by improving structure and removing dead
branches, 2) raising or reducing the crown to provide
clearance, and 3) thinning the crown to increase air and
light penetration. Removing the correct stems and
branches to accomplish the specified objectives is as
important as making the correct pruning cuts. If the
wrong branches, or too many branches, are removed
even with proper pruning cuts, nothing of merit has
been accomplished.
For more information, see the following:
IFAS Circular 853, Pruning Landscape Trees and Shrubs, at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG087 or Pruning Shade Trees in
the Landscape, at http://hort.ifas,ufl,edu/woody/pruningl.
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MANGROVES
Three species of mangroves are native to Florida: red
mangrove (Rhizophora mangle), black mangrove
(Avicennia genninans), and white mangrove (Laguncularia
racemosa) .
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Red mangroves are easily identified by their "prop roots,"
which are tangled, reddish, aerial roots that originate
from the trunk and branches. Their leaves are 1 to 5 inch-
es long, broad and blunt on the tip, shiny deep green on
top, and paler on the underside.
Black mangroves can be identified by numerous fingerlike
projections, called pneumatophores, that protrude from
the soil around the tree's trunk. Black mangrove leaves
are oblong, shiny green on top, and very pale on the
underside. Black mangroves are usually found at slightly
higher elevations, upland from red mangroves.
White mangroves have no visible aerial root system, as do
red and black mangroves. The easiest way to identify
white mangroves is by their leaves. These are up to 3
inches long, elliptical (rounded at both ends, often with a
notch at the tip), and yellowish in color, with two distin-
guishing glands at the base of each leaf blade where the
stem begins. White mangroves are usually found at high-
er elevations and farther upland than either red or black
mangroves.
The 1996 Mangrove Trimming and Preservation Act,
Sections 403.9321-403.9333, Florida Statutes, governs
the trimming and alteration of mangroves. The Florida
Department of Environmental Protection (FDEP) and
several delegated local governments implement the
mangrove program. Mangrove trimming and alteration
The mangrove preservation act's major provisions
include the following:
· The difference between "trimming" and "alteration" of
mangroves is defined.
· Mangroves may not be reduced to a height below 6
feet from the substrate and often may not be legally
trimmed down to 6 feet.
· Mangrove roots, including aerial and prop roots (red
mangroves) and pneumatophores (black mangroves),
may not be trimmed.
· Under certain conditions, a professional mangrove
trimmer must conduct or supervise the trimming.
· Dead mangrove trees are covered by the same regu-
lations as living mangrove trees; contact the closest
Florida Department of Environmental Protection office
for specific information on dealing with dead man-
grove trees on your client's property.
may be done by property owners under certain exemp-
tions, as specified in Section 403.9326, Florida Statutes.
Other trimming requires the services of a professional
mangrove trimmer and may require an FDEP permit.
Section 403.9329, Florida Statutes, governs who may be
considered a professional mangrove trimmer.
It is especially important that Green Industry profession-
als understand that, under the act, homeowners and the
individuals they hire to trim their mangroves are jointly
and severally responsible for the appropriate trimming
of mangroves.
All trimming should be done in a manner that does
not result in the removal, defoliation, or death of the
mangroves. Red mangroves are particularly sensitive to
inappropriate trimming. In general, the canopy of red
mangroves should not be trimmed, and no more than
25 percent of the canopy of black and white mangroves
should be removed. Preferably, views should be obtained
by thinning the canopy, creating "windows," and "uplift-
ing," compared with hedging (which can be particularly
damaging to red mangroves).
· The booklet Mangrove Trimming Guidelines for
Homeowners is available at FDEP's district offices
throughout the state. You may wish to obtain several
copies to give your clients. Before trimming man-
groves, homeowners and landscapers should read
the publications cited in this section, or call the
Environmental Resource Permitting staff at FDEP's
district offices to avoid violating the mangrove
preservation act.
For more information about the mangrove program, call
(850) 245-8482 or go to http://www.dep.state.fl.us/water/
wetlands/mangroves/.
DISPOSING OF LANDSCAPE MATERIAL
Never sweep grass clippings, leaves, or other debris
into a storm sewer. This pollutes our waterbodies and
may, in some cases, clog the system and contribute to
flooding.
Be careful with yard waste! Careless disposal may spread
invasive non-native plants to areas where they don't
belong. Lawn and landscape maintenance involves the
removal of leaves, clippings, whole landscape plants, and
even unwanted houseplants. Given contact with soil and
sufficient water, these materials may become established
at the disposal site. Dispose of them carefully, so plants
that are unwanted in one location don't unintentionally
become established elsewhere. Contact your county
waste management utility or Cooperative Extension
Service agent for information about local disposal sites in
your area that are designated for plant waste. Educate
your customers about proper plant disposal and how it
enhances the protection of natural areas.
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
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Figure 16. Illegal dumping of plant material.
Sometimes landscape waste materials are disposed of in
accessible locations on someone else's property, either
public or private. Illegal dumping has allowed several
species to become established in natural areas. Wax
begonia, pothos, heavenly bamboo, ardisia, golden bam-
boo, and arrowhead vine are among the species that
have moved into wild areas through this mechanism.
This spread of non-native species into protected sites is
threatening the plant and animal species those sites
were purchased to conserve.
Awareness of how a species is likely to become estab-
lished is important. A plant's relative ease of propagation
may provide valuable insight into its potential to spread.
Pruned material from a species that is quickly propagated
from cuttings, such as wedelia or lantana, may take root
without appropriate precautions. The timing of mainte-
nance activities can reduce the potential for discarded
plants to become established where they shouldn't.
Depending on the situation and local ordinances, several
options are available to dispose of plant material. Living
plant tissue can be destroyed on-site through burning,
composting in bins, or putting it in or under heavy plastic.
Material may also be dumped in designated disposal areas.
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The following tips can reduce the accidental propagation
of non-native species:
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. Plants can be pruned before the fruit is mature, and
leaf raking can be done before the seeds of surrounding
plants have dropped.
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· Whenever practical, and if the homeowner is amenable,
yard wastes should be composted on-site and retained
for use as mulch. This also avoids transportation and
disposal costs and reduces the need for purchased
materials.
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FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
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Chapter 5: Fertilization
FERTILIZER TERMS
"Fertilizer" means any substance that contains one or
more recognized plant nutrients and promotes plant
growth, or controls soil acidity or alkalinity, or provides
other soil enrichment, or provides other corrective
measures to the soil.
"Fertilizer grade or analysis" is the percent nitrogen,
phosphorus, and potassium guaranteed by the manufac-
turer to be in the fertilizer. For historical reasons, nitro-
gen is expressed as Total N, available phosphate as P20S,
and soluble potash as K20. The percent sign is not used,
but instead the numbers are separated by dashes, and the
order is always N, P20S, and K20 (for example, 15-0-15).
In this chapter, the abbreviations N, P, and K, respectively,
are used for nitrogen, phosphate, and potash.
Many fertilizer terms are officially defined by the
Association of American Plant Food Control Officials
(AAPFCO), http://www.aapfco.orgl.
FERTILIZER ANALYSIS
The Florida fertilizer label is detailed and intended to be
highly informative. By law, the product's label is required
to provide the following basic information: the brand and
grade, manufacturer's name and address, guaranteed
analysis, sources from which the guaranteed primary and
secondary nutrients are derived, and net weight.
In addition to the grade of the fertilizer, the label also
identifies the breakdown of Total N as either Nitrate-N,
Ammoniacal-N, Water Soluble or Urea-N, and Water
Insoluble-N. This N breakdown supplies information on
the immediate availability and/or leachability of the N in
the bag. Slow- or controlled-release fertilizer is defined by
the Association of American Plant Food Control Officials
(AAPFCO) as a fertilizer containing a plant nutrient in a
form that delays its availability for plant uptake and use
after application, or that extends its availability to the
plant significantly longer than a reference "rapidly avail-
able nutrient fertilizer" such as ammonium nitrate or
urea, ammonium phosphate, or potassium chloride.
Such delay of initial availability or extended time of con-
tinued availability may occur by a variety of mechanisms.
These include the controlled water solubility of the mate-
rial (by semipermeable coatings, occlusion, or the inher-
ent water insolubility of polymers, natural nitrogenous
organics, protein materials, or other chemical forms); by
the slow hydrolysis of water-soluble, low molecular
weight compounds; or by other unknown means.
In most cases, the higher the Water lnsoluble-N percent-
age in the mix, the longer lasting the fertilizer. This is
the portion where most of the N from natural organic
and slow-release N sources appears. A fertilizer that
contains all of its N as Nitrate-N, Ammoniacal-N, and/or
Water Soluble N is referred to as a soluble N fertilizer,
which has a high potential for leaching and should not
be applied at rates greater than 0.5 lbs. N/lOOO square
feet.
A fertilizer label also contains a "derived from" section
that identifies the materials from which the fertilizer was
formulated.
For more information, see IFAS Circular CIR-1262,
Selected Fertilizers Used in Twfgrass Fertilization, at
http://edis.ifas.ull.edu/SS318.
Secondary and micronutrients are identified in the lower
portion of the label and are expressed in the elemental
form. Sulfur (S) is expressed as "combined" (usually
expressed as S04) and as "free" (elemental S form). The
reason for this distinction is that "free" S is very acidify-
ing when placed in the soil. Magnesium (Mg), Iron (Fe),
Copper (Cu), Manganese (Mn), and Zinc (Zn) must be
expressed as Total and/or Soluble or Water Soluble
depending on the source materials formulated in the fer-
tilizer. Chelated elements are guaranteed separately when
a chelating agent is denoted in the derivation statement
below the guaranteed analysis. For additional informa-
tion, see IFAS Publication SL-3, The Florida Fertilizer
Label, at http://edis.ifas.ull.edu/SSI70.
URBAN TURF FERTILIZER RULE
In 2007, the Florida Department of Agriculture and
Consumer Services adopted rule 5E-1.003(2), labeling
requirements for urban turf fertilizers. The complete rule,
as first adopted in 2007, is presented in the Appendix.
The rule limits the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus
that the manufacturer may recommend for application on
urban turf and lawns in Florida. It also directs the manu-
facturer to recommend the use of BMPs for professional
applicators and golf course or athletic field managers.
While this rule only applies to the manufacturer's label
for fertilizer, many local government ordinances, and
future state requirements, may require that applicators
abide by the recommendations on the label. In addition,
weed and feed products are legally pesticides. For
pesticide - fertilizer combination products the label
recommendation carries the full force of state and
federal law.
TURF FERTILIZATION MANAGEMENT
One of the first steps in developing a turfgrass fertiliza-
tion management program involves a basic knowledge of
the soils on which the turfgrasses are being grown. This
knowledge can be acquired by observing and evaluating
the soil's physical and chemical properties. Most Florida
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
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Figure 17. Streaking on a lawn caused by poor application technique.
soils are sands and therefore retain limited quantities of
water and nutrients. Individuals with only limited train-
ing in soils can discern whether a soil is mostly sand or
predominately clay, and whether the soil contains flakes
of free calcium carbonate or shell. These properties may
significantly affect a turfgrass fertilization management
program.
Chemical properties such as soil pH, lime requirement,
extractable levels of P, K, calcium (Ca), Mg, and selected
micronutrients such as Mn, Cu, and Zn can be determined
through soil testing. Florida soils are not analyzed for N
because it is highly mobile in sandy soils. Since reliable
correlations between turfgrass growth and soil test N have
not been developed, turfgrass N fertilization is based on
the requirements of the individual turfgrass being grown.
Additional information on soil testing for turfgrasses can
be found later in this chapter or in IFAS Publication SL
181, Soil Testing and Interpretationjor Florida Turfgrasses,
at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS317.
NITROGEN MANAGEMENT
Fertilizer Sources
Matching the fertilizer source and rate with the growth
phase of the turfgrass is one of the keys to nutrient man-
agement. For example, you may shift from 1 lb total N of
15-0-15 slow release to a 1/2 lb N of 5-0-20 for a fall fer-
tilization as dormancy approaches. Leaching losses of
nitrogen can be minimized by using controlled-release
nitrogen sources, making frequent, low-rate applications
of soluble fertilizers, or applying a combination of the
two fertilizer materials. Low-rate applications are usually
made using soluble fertilizers, whether applied as a liq-
uid or granular product.
Quick Release Sources
One of the most common nitrogen fertilizers is urea (46
percent N), which is a water-soluble, synthetic organic
nitrogen fertilizer with quick N-release characteristics.
Urea can be applied as either liquid or granules, and is
subject to volatilization, or loss of nitrogen to the atmos-
phere. If urea is applied to a turfgrass surface and not
incorporated through proper irrigation, significant quan-
tities of N can be lost through volatilization. Therefore, it
is imperative that the proper quantity of water be applied
following the application of urea fertilizer, unless rainfall
is anticipated within 8 to 12 hours. Recall that one inch
of applied water moves the water front 12 inches through
a Florida sandy soil; therefore, do not apply excessive irri-
gation. Application of 1/4 inch of water should be suffi-
cient to solubilize most of the urea and move it into the
turfgrass root zone.
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If urea is applied and followed by rainfall of an inch or
greater within 8 to 12 hours after application, urea-N may
move below the turfgrass root zone because of its non-
ionic nature and be lost through leaching. Although urea
does not leach as rapidly or uniformly as nitrate-N signif-
icant loss of N can occur if excessive irrigation or rainfall
occurs shortly after application. Once the urea has been
exposed to soil or turfgrass thatch layer for a short time,
it is converted by the enzyme urease to the ammonium-N
form, which is more likely to be retained by the soil. This
conversion of urea is usually complete within the first 24
hours after application. Thus, a heavy rainfall 2 to 3 days
after an application of urea should not be as influential
on N movement.
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Figure 18. Weigh fertilizer to get accurate results.
Recently some new types of stabilized N fertilizer materi-
als have been commercialized. These products contain
urease inhibitors, which slow the conversion of urea to
ammonium and reduce the volatilization loss of N.
Therefore, these products can be left on the surface
longer without significant loss of N through volatiliza-
tion. This delay in urea conversion is usually 3 to 5 days,
which means that the N remains in the urea form for a
longer period of time and subjects the urea to leaching
losses if heavy rainfall occurs during this period. In most
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAOICES for Protection of Woter Resources by the Green Industries
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cases, these stabilized N materials also contain nitrifica-
tion inhibitors, which slow the nitrification process as
well. Recent research suggests that these stabilized N
materials extend the N availability to turfgrass for 10 to
14 days over that of quick release products.
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Recent research has shown that some slow-release N
materials may leach more urea than applications of quick
release urea. This is thought to be due to the slow-
release urea product leaching through the soil without
being degraded by urease. Small quantities of urea (less
than 10% of the total released N) have been detected in
the leachate from some slow-release N sources during
the first 7 to 10 days after application. However, by 14
days after application no urea was detected in the
leachate regardless of the N source applied; only nitrate
N remained after this period.
Ammonium Nitrate (AN) and Ammonium Sulfate (AS)
are two other soluble, quick-release N sources commonly
used by professional lawn-care services. These two mate-
rials are not as high in N as urea. AN (33.5 percent N)
and AS (21 percent N), however, have a higher salt index
and burn potential than urea on a per-pound-of-N basis.
AS is also a very acidifying N source. For each pound of
N applied as AS, 5.35 pounds of acidity are produced
due to the ammonium-ion content. AS is often the pre-
ferred N source on high pH soils due to its acidifying
properties.
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Urea and AN are often formulated as liquid N sources for
application in solution form through the irrigation sys-
tem (fertigation) or direct application. Lawn-care profes-
sionals often use solution fertilizers because of applica-
tion uniformity and efficiency. Solution fertilizers do not
leach more readily than similar granular fertilizers once
they have reacted with the soil components.
slow Release Sources
There are many sources of slow release nitrogen. Several
of the definitions provided by AAPFCO are listed below.
t
. Slow or controlled release fertilizer is a fertilizer
containing a plant nutrient in a form which delays its
availability for plant uptake and use after application,
or which extends its availability to the plant signifi-
cantly longer than a reference "rapidly available nutri-
ent fertilizer" such as ammonium nitrate or urea,
ammonium phosphate, or potassium chloride. Such
delay of initial availability or extended time of contin-
ued availability may occur by a variety of mechanisms.
These include controlled water solubility of the mate-
rial (by semi-permeable coatings, occlusion, or by
inherent water insolubility of polymers, natural
nitrogenous organics, protein materials, or other
chemical forms), by slow hydrolysis of water soluble
low molecular weight compounds, or by other
unknown means. (AAPFCO, Official 1985)
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· Enhanced Efficiency is a term describing fertilizer prod-
ucts with characteristics that allow increased plant
uptake and reduce the potential of nutrient losses to
the environment such as gaseous losses, leaching or
runoff, as compared to an appropriate reference prod-
uct. (AAPFCO, Official 2008)
· Ureaform Fertilizer Materials (sparingly soluble) are
reaction products of urea and formaldehyde which
contain at least thirty-five percent (35%) nitrogen,
largely in insoluble but slowly available form. The
water insoluble content shall be at least sixty percent
(60%) of the total nitrogen. The water insoluble nitro-
gen in these products shall have an activity index of
not less than forty percent (40%) when determined by
the appropriate AOAC International method. (AAPF-
CO, Official 1984)
· Urea-Formaldehyde Products (sparingly soluble) are
reaction products of urea and formaldehyde which con-
tain less than thirty-five percent (35%) nitrogen, largely
in insoluble but slowly available form. They shall have
the percentage of total nitrogen as part of the product
name; for example: 20% N Urea-Formaldehyde. The
water insoluble nitrogen (AOAC Int. Method 945.01)
shall be at least sixty percent (60%) of the total nitro-
gen. The activity index of the water insoluble nitrogen
shall be either 0) not less than forty percent (40%) by
the AOAC International method for Urea-formaldehyde
Products (#955.05) or (2) not less than fifty percent
(50%) by the AOAC International alkaline perman-
ganate method (#920.07) or eighty percent (80%) by
the neutral permanganate method(#920.06). (AAPF-
CO, Official 1984)
· Isobutylidene Diurea(IBDU) is a condensation product
of isobutyraldehyde and urea having a minimum total
nitrogen content of thirty percent (30%). It is a source
of slowly available nitrogen by virtue of particle size,
solubility decreasing with increase in particle size.
Material conforming to the description of a "granular
fertilizer" will have ninety percent (90%) of its nitrogen
content in the water insoluble form prior to grinding as
tested by AOAC International Method 945.01 (15th
Edition). (AAPFCO, Official 1986)
· Sulfur Coated Urea (SCU) is a coated slow release
fertilizer consisting of urea particles coated with sulfur.
The product is usually further coated with a sealant
(2% to 3% of total weight) and a conditioner (2% to
3% of total weight). It typically contains about thirty
percent (30%) to forty percent (40%) nitrogen and
about ten percent (10%) to thirty percent (30%) sulfur.
(AAPFCO, Official 1980)
· Urea-Formaldehyde Products (water soluble) are reac-
tion products of urea and formaldehyde which contain
at least thirty percent (30%) nitrogen, largely in water
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200B
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soluble form. Some slowly available nitrogen products
are present. Stable aqueous solutions may be prepared
from these materials. The reaction products shall con-
tain a maximum of fifty-five percent (55%) free urea,
with the remainder of the urea being chemically com-
bined as methylolureas, methylolurea ethers, and/or
methylenediurea (MDU) and dimethylenetriurea
(DMTU). (AAPFCO, Official 1984)
· Methylenediurea (MDU) is a water soluble condensation
product resulting from the reaction of one molecule of
formaldehyde with two molecules of urea, with the
elimination of one molecule of water. It has a mini-
mum total nitrogen content of forty-two percent (42%)
and is a source of slowly available nitrogen. (AAPFCO,
Official 1984)
· Dimethylenetriurea (DMTU) is a water soluble conden-
sation product resulting from the reaction of two mole-
cules of formaldehyde with three molecules of urea,
with the elimination of two molecules of water, and
having a minimum total nitrogen content of forty-one
percent (41 %). It is a source of slowly available nitro-
gen. (AAPFCO, Official 1984)
. Dicyandiamide (cyanoguanidine) is a water soluble
organic compound of formula C2H4N4 which contains
at least sixty-five percent (65%) nitrogen. It is a source
of slowly available nitrogen. It is a nitrification
inhibitor.( AAPFCO, Official 2000)
· Polymer Coated Urea (PCU) is a coated slow release fer-
tilizer consisting of urea particles coated with a poly-
mer (plastic) resin. It typically contains about forty
percent (40%) nitrogen. It is a source of slowly avail-
able nitrogen. (AAPFCO, Official 1990)
. Triazone is a water soluble compound of formula
C5H 11 Ns02 [5-(N-methyl)-urea-1,3,5-triazin-2-one or
5- methyleneureido- 2 -oxo hexahydro-s- triazine] which
contains at least forty percent (40%) total nitrogen.
(AAPFCO, Official 1989)
. Urea- Triazone Solution is a stable solution resulting
from controlled reaction in aqueous medium of urea,
formaldehyde, and ammonia which contains at least
twenty-five percent (25%) total nitrogen. The solution
shall contain no more than forty percent (40%) nor less
than five percent (5%) of total nitrogen from unreacted
urea and not less than forty percent (40%) from tria-
zone. All other nitrogen shall be derived from water
soluble, dissolved reaction products of the above reac-
tants. It is a source of slowly available nitrogen.
(AAPFCO, Official 1990)
· Methylene Urea(s) (MU, polymethylene urea(s)) is a
product obtained by the reaction of urea with formalde-
hyde and contains oligomers of urea bonded together
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Figure 19. Slow or quick release, this fertilizer is going to a water body.
Keep fertilizer away from impervious surfaces and water bodies.
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by methylene (-CH2-) linkages. It is chiefly composed
of cold-water soluble fractions from methylenediurea
(MDU) and dimethylenetriurea (DMTU), hot water
soluble fractions from trimethylenetetraurea (TMTU)
and tetramethylenepentaurea (TMPU) and hot-water
insoluble fractions from longer chain oligomers. It is
generally free of methylolureas and methyol ethers. It
is a source of slowly available nitrogen. (AAPFCO,
Official 2001)
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Urea is often formulated using a chemical reaction or
coating to produce fertilizers with slow-release character-
istics, such as ureaformaldehyde (UF or Nitroform),
isobutylidene diurea (IBDU), and sulfur- or polymer-coat-
ed urea. These fertilizers depend on microbial action, soil
moisture, and/or a chemical reaction for the release of N
for use by turfgrass. It is important to know when to use
a given slow-release N source in order to obtain maxi-
mum effectiveness from the material. This is due to envi-
ronmental influences on the N-release mechanisms of
slow-release N sources.
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The N-release mechanism for methylene urea-type
products (Urea formaldehyde, UF, Nitroform, Nutralene,
Methex, or CoRon) is microbial. Because temperature
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FLORIDA FRIENDlY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
influences the activity of the soil microbial population,
these materials release N more slowly and are less effec-
tive during the cool season.
Particle size and rate of hydrolysis control the N release
from mDU; thus, this product should not be used during
periods of heavy rainfall. However, it is one of the more
effective materials in the cool season when precipitation
levels decrease.
'"
N release from sulfur-coated urea (SCU) products is con-
trolled by the coating thickness and the degree of imper-
fection in the coating. SCU products typically induce a
somewhat mottled appearance when used during the cool
season, but are generally very effective during the high-
rainfall, warm-season growth period. Because of the frag-
ile nature of the sulfur coating on most SCU materials,
they should not be applied using a drop-type spreader.
Other products include polymer-coated, controlled-
release fertilizers that use a polymer coating to encapsu-
late nutrient granules. A polymer membrane is chemically
bonded to the substrate resulting in a fertilizer with
release governed largely by soil temperature, provided
adequate moisture is present. The release mechanism is
osmotic diffusion. Some systems consist of multiple
layers of polymer, and may include other intermediate
coatings. Product longevity may be controlled by coating
thickness and blending ratios.
I[
Organic fertilizers are another source of nitrogen that is
slowly made available through microbial degradation.
In this case, the release rates depend on nature of the
product and the prior treatment that it has received as
well as temperature and moisture. Organic fertilizers,
including biosolids from wastewater treatment plants,
generally have low N:P20S ratios, which means that it is
difficult or impossible to meet the nitrogen needs of the
turf without exceeding the annual maximum allowable
P20S, unless other nitrogen sources are added. Some
manufacturers do blend in other N sources to overcome
this and provide a more balanced product that preserves
the benefits of nutrient recycling.
In conclusion, a wide variety of slow-release materials is
available. Under typical Florida conditions, slow-release
N sources are likely to leach less than an equal amount
of soluble N sources. However, leaching can still take
place and some slow-release products may be subject to
runoff of the nutrient-containing slow release particles.
Judicious use of professional judgment and a mixture of
soluble and slow-release N sources are recommended.
For more information on N sources for lawn fertilization,
see IFAS Publication CIR-1262, Selected Fertilizers Used
in Twfgrass Fertilization, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS318,
or Publication SPI4I, Florida Lawn Handbook: An
Environmental Approach to Care and Maintenance oj Your
Lawn, Second Edition.
Nitrogen Rate and Frequency
The rate of nutrient application, particularly N,
depends on a number of factors: turfgrass species,
turfgrass maintenance level goals, the location in the
state where the turfgrass is being grown, time of year,
and type of fertilizer source being used (soluble or
slow release). Thus, a single rate of application cannot
be recommended. The frequency of fertilization also
depends on all the factors listed above for N rate. To
limit the environmental impact of your fertilization
program, it is recommended that no more than 0.5
pounds of water-soluble N per 1,000 square feet be
applied in a normal application. Total N should be
limited to 1 Ib./lOOO ft2, per the Urban Turf Rule.
Table 5 is from the Florida Fertilizer Rule, 5E-1.003(2).
In areas irrigated with reclaimed water, check with the
reclaimed water supplier for estimates of the N applied
per year in the reclaimed water, and recommendations
to adjust the fertilization. A study for the Tampa Bay
Estuary program (April 2008) estimated 0.6 to 5.3 lb
NIl000ft2 was applied annually to lawns from several
different wastewater treatment systems.
For a detailed fertilization guide for Florida turfgrasses,
see IFAS Publication SL-ll, General Recommendations
Jor Fertilization oj TurJgrasses on Florida Soils, at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LHOI4.
Table 5: Fertilization guidelines for established turfgrass lawns in three regions of Florida
Nitrogen recommendations (Ibs N / '000 ft2 / year)'
Species North Central South
Bahia 2-3 2-4 2-4
Bermuda 3-5 4-6 5-7
Centipede '-2 2-3 2-3
St. Augustine 2-4 2-5 4-6
Zoysia 3-5 3-6 4-6
. North Florida is north of Ocala. Central Florida is defined as south of Ocala to a line extending from Vero Beach to Tampa. South Florida
includes the remaining southern portion of the state.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200811
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Timing and Season
The timing of fertilization is tied to the turfgrass species,
maintenance level goal, season of the year, the location in
the state where the turfgrass is being grown, and the fer-
tilizer source being used. One of the most important prin-
ciples of fertilization timing is avoiding fertilizer applica-
tion to dormant or non-growing turfgrass. During dor-
mancy, turfgrasses take up very small quantities of nutri-
ents, and applied nutrients are more likely to leach or run
off site in the next thunderstorm. Slow-release sources
also influence the timing of fertilization, in that fertiliza-
tion is required less frequently.
Rainfall that exceeds the ability of the soil to retain mois-
ture in the root zone may lead to runoff into surface
waters or leaching through the soil to ground water. Do
not apply fertilizer when the National Weather Service
has issued a flood, tropical storm, or hurricane watch or
warning, or if heavy rains I are likely. While only about
3 to 5% of Florida rain events exceed two inches,2 cau-
tion should always be used to avoid runoff or leaching
from saturated or compacted soils or in other high-risk
situations. Additional information on storms and weather
may be found at http://severe.worldweather.orglrain/,
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sew/MediaGuideJTermsOutlooks
Watches Warnings.pdf, and http://www.dep.state.fl.us/
wa ter/nonpoin t/ docs/no n pain t/SW T rea tmen tReportF inal
7l907.pdf.
Location in the State
Based on seasonal differences, changes in soil types, and
the predominant turfgrass species used on lawns, the
state is divided into three regions: south, central, and
north. The dividing line between north and central
Florida is a straight east-west line from coast to coast
through Ocala, and the dividing line between central
Florida and south Florida is a line from coast to coast
through Tampa and Vera Beach.
For tables providing fertilization guidelines for the vari-
ous turfgrass species by maintenance level in a given
region of the state, see IFAS Publication SL-21, General
Recommendations for Fertilization of Twfgrasses on Florida
Soils, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH014.
Soil Types and TurFgrass Species
Most of the soils in Florida are classified as sands (96 per-
cent), but within these soil types the chemical properties
of the soils vary according to the region of the state in
which they occur.
Soils in south Florida tend to contain higher levels of free
calcium carbonate (lime or shell) and have a higher pH
than the rest of the state. Generally speaking, SI.
Augustinegrass grows better on high pH soils than do
bahiagrass or centipedegrass; thus, one finds more lawns
with St. Augustinegrass in south Florida. In fact, approxi-
mately 85 percent of the residential and commercial
lawns in Florida use one of the several cultivars of St.
Augustinegrass. For the recommended soil pH for the
various turfgrasses used in Florida, see IFAS Publication
SL-l8l, Soil Testing and Interpretation for Florida
Turfgrasses, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS3l7.
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Due to the potential for ammonia volatilization, the sur-
face application of ammonium-N and/or urea-containing
fertilizers to these high pH soils without watering in
(with 0.25 inch of irrigation) is not recommended.
Central Florida soils contain less calcium carbonate and
tend to be more acidic, with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.5.
Except for areas where limestone outcroppings occur,
most of the turfgrass species can be grown. Since bahia-
grass and centipedegrass do not grow well on high pH
soils, their establishment on soils with a pH of greater
than 7.0 should be avoided. Soils in north Florida tend to
contain higher quantities of clay and to be more acidic
than soils in the rest of the state. Therefore, bahiagrass
and centipedegrass are used more commonly for lawns in
this part of the state.
Zoysiagrass is not used extensively as a lawn grass in
Florida, but when used it grows best under the same
soil and fertilization conditions as St. Augustinegrass.
Bermudagrasses require high maintenance and specialized
equipment, but can be grown under a broad array of soil
conditions. They are typically grown under intensively
managed golf course conditions. Bermudagrass mainte-
nance is not covered in this manual but is included in Best
Management Practices for Enhancement of Environmental
Quality on Florida Golf Courses, published by FDEP in
2007. Available: http://www.dep.state.fl.us/water/non
point/docs/nonpoint/glfbmp07.pdf. Seashore paspalum
produces a high quality turfgrass with minimal fertility
requirements and a high tolerance for salinity. This
is a relatively new grass in Florida and may be very
sensitive to cultural practices. For up-to-date
information, contact your cooperative extension
service or see Seashore Paspalum for Florida Lawns at:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edul EP059.
PHOSPHORUS FERTILIZATION
Because P has been implicated as a cause of increased
algae growth in surface water impoundments, proper P
fertilization management is imperative. Therefore, the
goal in P management should be to apply the correct
amount based on soil test recommendations. Since the
first publication of this manual, the Urban Turf Fertilizer
Rule, 5E-1.003(2) has been enacted. In addition to the
1 World Meteorological Organization definition of heavy rain: Rainfall greater than or equal to 50 mm (2 inches) in a 24 hour period.
2 Data from "Evaluation of Current Stormwater Design Criteria within the State of Florida" (Harper and Baker, 2007, FDEP Contract 50108).
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection 01 Water Resources by the Green Industries
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nitrogen restrictions discussed earlier, there are changes
to phosphorus application limits. The rule limits phos-
phate application to no more than 0.25 lb. P20S llOOOft2
per application, not to exceed 0.5 lb. P20S 1I000ft2 per
year, without a soil test. A one-time only application of
up to 1.0 lb. P20S 1I000ft2 is permitted for establishment
of new turf. This BMP manual strongly recommends soil
testing before any initial P20S application and annually if
applications are being made based on previous testing.
Where subdivisions have been determined to have rela-
tively similar soils, this may be reduced to testing 1/2 to
1/3 of the customers each year, rotating the testing so all
are tested every 2 or 3 years. For more information, see
IFAS Publication SL-181, Soil Testing and Interpretation for
Florida Turfgrasses, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS317.
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Turfgrasses use significantly less P than N ancl/or K.
Some Florida soils are high in native P, and turfgrasses
grown on these soils require only limited P fertilization
or none at all. Soil or tissue testing should always be used
in these situations. Responses to P fertilization are most
typically observed for rooting enhancement during estab-
lishment and where soils have a P deficiency.
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The off-site transport of P is often associated with soil
erosion from unvegetated and thin turfgrass areas.
Research shows that runoff from a healthy turfgrass area
is minimal, but thin ancl/or poor quality turfgrass has
much a higher erosion and runoff potential. Because P
can be a significant contributor to eutrophication, the
proper management of P on turfgrass is just as important
to the environment as N management.
Another source of P is in reclaimed water. Turf irrigated
with reclaimed water may receive an excess of P, compared
to the maximum amounts recommended in the Urban Turf
Rule. Do not add phosphorus to a site irrigated with re-
claimed water without a soil test recommendation to do so.
By using the following simple measures, you can properly
manage the P fertilization of your turfgrasses:
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. P fertilization should always be based on reliable soil or
tissue test recommendations. Many Florida soils are
high in extractable P and may never require P fertiliza-
tion for optimum turfgrass growth. Never exceed the
amounts allowed by the Florida Fertilizer Label with-
out a soil or tissue test recommendation.
. Since unvegetated slopes or thin, low-quality turfgrass
areas are more likely to produce runoff and off-site P
contamination than healthy, well-maintained turfgrass
areas, it is important to properly maintain your turfgrass.
POTASSIUM FERTILIZATION
Of the three primary nutrients (N, P, and K), K is second
only to N in utilization by turfgrasses. Large responses in
turfgrass growth are not typically observed in response to
K fertilization, but K has been linked to reduced disease
incidence, drought and cold tolerance, and enhanced root
growth. The K fertilization rate is often tied to the N fer-
tilization level, generally in a 3:1,2:1, or 1:1 ratio.
Recent research on Bermudagrasses suggests that opti-
mum growth and tissue K levels can be attained at a 3: I
or 2:1 ratio.
Ideally, turfgrass K fertilization should be based on soil
test recommendations. Because of high mobility in sandy
soils, K fertilization should be made as soon after soil
testing as possible. However, K is often applied without a
prior soil test, based on the requirements of the turfgrass.
Fortunately, K is not considered a pollutant, but prudence
in K fertilization is essential for economic and resource
conservation reasons. Excessive K fertilization can con-
tribute to high soil electroconductivity (EC) levels that
may limit root growth and turfgrass tolerance to drought.
SECONDARY NUTRIENT FERTILIZATION
Ca, Mg, and S are referred to as secondary plant nutrients,
not because they are of secondary importance, but because
they are typically used in smaller quantities than the pri-
mary nutrients. Of these three, the Extension Soil Testing
Laboratory (ESTL) makes recommendations only for Mg.
Mehlich-I extractable Mg levels are typically low, and
responses have been observed when the soil Mg status
drops below 40 pounds per acre. For more information,
see IFAS Publication SL-181, Soil Testing and Interpretation
for Florida Iillfgrasses,at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS317.
Due to the presence of apatite ancl/or residuals from pre-
vious P fertilizations, the Mehlich-I extractant may dis-
solve higher levels of Ca than are plant available; there-
fore, no interpretation is made for the extracted soil Ca.
Generally, plant-available Ca levels of Florida soils are
high and no responses to applied Ca have been observed.
You may increase Ca levels by applying irrigation water
containing high levels of Ca.
Consistent and reliable correlation data do not exist for
soil test S levels and turfgrass growth; thus, the ESTL
does not analyze or make recommendations for S.
Fortunately, S is often an accompanying anion in N, K,
Mg, and micronutrient sources and is not often deficient
for turfgrass growth.
MICRONUTRIENTS
The ESTL analyzes and makes recommendations for
Cu, Mn, and Zn. Of these three micronutrients,
turfgrass responses have only been observed for Mn. In
most Florida soils, extractable Cu and Zn levels are
adequate for optimum turfgrass growth, except for Cu
on organic soils under sod production. No analysis or
recommendation is made for Fe in Florida soils due to
limited information on the correlation between soil and
tissue levels, and turfgrass growth response. A greening
in response to the application of Fe ancl/or Mn will most
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likely be obtained on turfgrasses grown on soils having
a pH of 7.0 or greater or irrigated with alkaline water.
The application of 2 ounces of iron sulfate per 1,000
square feet as a foliar spray usually produces the desired
resplj,nse. This response is generally short-lived,
however, and reapplication may be required. For
additional information, see IFAS Publication SL-181,
Soil Testing and Interpretation Jar Florida TUlfgrasses,at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS31 7.
FERTILIZING GRASS FOR
ESTABLISHMENT OR RECOVERY
Establishment and recovery are special situations. The
goal is to get the environmental benefits of a solid cover of
turfgrass as quickly as possible and this may require fertil-
ization above what established turf requires. Nand K are
used to promote a thick, vigorous stand of turf. Use P only
when a soil test indicates there is a need. The BMP for
retaining nutrients on the lawn is a dense stand of turf.
The following measures can be used to fertilize grass for
establishment or recovery:
· New sod should not be fertilized with nitrogen for the
first 30 days, until it has firmly rooted into soil. Plugs
can be fertilized at the time of installation to encourage
the runners to spread. A quick, complete ground cover
is the ultimate goal.
· Newly seeded areas should not receive nitrogen fertil-
ization until a cover has been established and roots
have pegged down, usually about 30 days.
· For new turf establishment only, soil test results
may indicate a one time application of up to 1 lb.
P20S /l000ft2 is needed to encourage root growth. This
should not be applied until 30 days after planting.
. Newly established turf often requires a different fertility
schedule to grow and develop a dense stand. Both rates
and timing may be different.
· Weakened turf may be stimulated back to health by N
fertilization.
· N rates should be adjusted to meet the needs of the
turf.
· Soluble fertilizer may be necessary to provide a rapid
response on weakened turf.
· Lower total rates of soluble fertilizer can produce
desired turf improvement when applied frequently.
· Fe and Mn can be used to supplement lower rates of
soluble fertilizer. Micronutrients provide an initial
color response, while soluble N thickens the turf and
improves root development.
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection 01 Water Resources by the Green Industries
· Slow-release fertilizer may be an advantage when nutri-
ents cannot be applied as frequently.
There is no significant difference between liquid or dry
applications. Turfgrasses take up N in the form of nitrate
and ammonium, and all dry fertilizers have to be dissolved
by water before they benefit the turf. In terms of BMPs for
environmental protection, the proper application of fertil-
izer is more important than the type of product.
UNTREATED BUFFERS NEAR BODIES OF WATER
Except when adjacent to a protective seawall, always
leave a "Ring of Responsibility" around or along the
shoreline of canals, lakes, or waterways, so that you do
not get fertilizer into a body of water. When fertilizing, it
is important to ensure that fertilizers and other lawn
chemicals do not come into direct contact with the
water or with any structure bordering the water or a
storm drain such as a sidewalk, brick border, driveway,
or street. If any materials do get onto these impervious
surfaces, sweep them into the vegetated landscape or
otherwise clean them up.
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This untreated buffer protects the water quality of the
waterway by ensuring no prills or droplets enter the water.
When applying liquid fertilizers, the Ring of Responsibility
should be at least 3 feet from the edge of the water.
The same is true for applying granular fertilizers with a
broadcast fertilizer spreader that features a deflector
shield. A deflector shield only allows fertilizer to be dis-
tributed on one side. This half-circle application (instead
of the typical full-circle application of most fertilizer
spreaders) allows for a more accurate fertilizer application.
If you are broadcasting fertilizer without a deflector
shield, the Ring of Responsibility should extend at least
10 feet from the edge of the water, since the prills may be
thrown up to 7 feet.
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Figure 21. Spreaders with deflector shields.
The "Ring of Responsibility," is a preventative buffer,
which protects against accidental direct contamination
when fertilizing, and is the responsibility of the applica-
tor. Some communities may require larger treatment
buffers, which are intended to absorb pollutants from
stormwater flowing across the land. land development
codes in these communities require developers and
builders to leave native vegetation or other riparian
buffers or filter strips to protect the water from the broad-
er effects of upland development. These areas usually do
not require fertilization, or need it only during an initial
establishment period. The applicator should understand
and respect the nature of these areas.
IMPERVIOUS SURFACES
Most urban landscapes are surrounded by impervious
surfaces such as sidewalks, driveway and streets. An
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Figure 22. Fertilizer on sidewalks runs off into storm drains. Sweep it
into the grass.
impervious surface that drains to a water body or the
stormwater system is called a Directly Connected
Impervious Area (DCIA). Fertilizer inadvertently
applied on these surfaces has ready access to our water
resources through storm drains. This is why it is so
important to keep fertilizer off impervious surfaces and
to remove any that is spilled on them and deposit it back
into the landscape.
If using a broadcast spreader, deflector shields should
always be used when applying fertilizer adjacent to these
surfaces.
FERTlGATION
Fertigation is the application of liquid fertilizer
thorough irrigation systems. While fertigation is not
widely practiced in residential or commercial lawn and
landscape care, some systems are available. For effective
nutrient management to be achieved, a fertigation
system should be designed, installed, and maintained
by a qualified irrigation specialist. Proper and legal
backflow prevention devices must be used so that
fertilizer does not back-siphon into the water supply.
Apply minimum quantities of fertilizer. Due to the
hazards of direct deposition on streets, driveways, and
sidewalks; and potential over-application by misadjusted
irrigation systems; FDEP does not recommend use of
fertigation for residential use unless the entire system is
under an operation and maintenance contract with a
reputable contractor who is fully responsible for any
pollution due to improper operation of the fertigation
equipment or the associated irrigation system.
FERTILIZING LANDSCAPE PLANTS
WHY FERTILIZE?
Clearly, plants grow in the wild without any help from
humans. However, our modern urban landscape is not
the same as the one where our native plants evolved.
Subdivisions filled with subsoils, forests cut down, and
drainage modifications all combine to make an urban
landscape a very different environment. In addition, we
have learned that some plants respond to fertilizers in
ways that we may consider desirable, such as faster
growth or improved appearance. The value of these out-
comes is subjective. For example, faster growth may be
desired in one circumstance but may lead to unwanted
pruning in another. Improved appearance is important to
some and unimportant to others.
Thus, the reason for fertilizing plants should be to supply
nutrients to achieve a clearly defined objective, such as
the following:
· Increasing shoot growth, root growth, flowering, or
fruiting;
· Establishing newly planted trees and shrubs;
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200B II
· Enhancing foliage color and plant appearance;
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· Correcting or preventing nutrient deficiencies.
RECOMMENDATIONS AND BASIC PRINCIPLES
fOR FERTILIZING LANDSCAPE PLANTS
The recommendations in this section do not pertain
to products containing insecticides, herbicides, or
other pesticides. By law, such products are considered
pesticides. For-hire applicators must be licensed and
the label instructions must be followed (see Chapter 6
on pest control for more information).
Important recommendations and principles for fertilizing
landscape plants are as follows:
· Prior to fertilizing, a soil ancl/or foliar nutrient analysis
should be used to determine whether any need exists
for phosphorus fertilizer.
· Before fertilizing, pests may need to be controlled
ancl/or soil modified to improve nutrient uptake or
plant responses to fertilizer.
· Plants with pests or other problems that could increase
to damaging levels with fertilization should be fertilized
only in conjunction with a treatment program. Without
a treatment program, fertilizer may increase the severity
of the damage.
· Soil pH should be considered when selecting a
fertilizer.
· The amount of fertilizer applied should be the minimal
amount needed to achieve the defined objective.
. Read and follow all label instructions and safety
precautions.
· The types and rate of fertilizer should be specified,
aswell as the timing, method, and location of applica-
tion. Slow-release fertilizers are often preferred. High
levels of nitrogen fertilizer may reduce flowering in
some plants.
WHEN TO FERTILIZE
Fertilization MAY be justified in the following situations:
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· If trees and shrubs are newly planted (thus justifying
fertilization until established);
· If homeowners or clients desire more or faster growth;
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. If landscape beds have been leached of nutrients by
flooding or overirrigation;
· If trees and shrubs are NOT near fertilized turfgrass;
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· If established plants are lacking in foliage color or
density for the homeowners' or clients' purposes;
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· If plants exhibiting nutrient deficiencies are in
situations where they cannot be replaced with
better-adapted species.
Fertilization may NOT be required in the following
situations:
· If homeowners or clients are pleased with the appear-
ance of their landscape plants;
. If plants are established;
· If plants are flowering or fruiting, since exposure to
high nitrogen at this stage may impede development;
· For tees, unless nutrient deficiencies exist.
If landscape plants exhibit nutrient deficiency symptoms,
they may not be suited to the site due to soil pH, soil
drainage, soil salts, limited soil volume, irrigation water
quality, or mineral content of the soil. Consider replacing
such plants with others adapted to the site's conditions.
HOW MUCH TO FERTILIZE
General Recommendations
When it has been determined that fertilization is neces-
sary, most established landscape plants should be fertil-
ized at rates within the ranges shown in Table 6.
Table 6: Landscape plant nitrogen fertilization rates.
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Level of Maintenance Amount of Nitrogen Fertilizer
pounds N/1000 ft2/year per 3' diameter plant/yr.
Oz'-. Tablespoons ..
Basic 0-2 0-2 0-4
Moderate 2-4 2-4 4-9
High 4-6 4-6 9 13
. Typical, assumes 15% N 50% slow release, Approx 7 sq, ft. root zone.
.. 1 lb. N rate is about 1.5 oz. or 3 Tablespoons per 10 ft2 per application.
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
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The P content of the fertilizer should be zero unless a soil
or tissue test indicates a need for additional phosphorus.
Historically, the ratio of N to K for landscape plants has
been in the range of 1: 1 to 2: 1. Since magnesium (Mg)
deficiency occurs in certain landscape plants- in many
parts of the state, up to 2.5 pounds Mgl1000 ft2/year may
be applied to address this problem. Micronutrients can be
applied at specified rates and timing to achieve fertiliza-
tion objectives.
it
In general, slow release fertilizers are horticulturally
and environmentally preferable for landscape plantings.
Water-soluble fertilizers should be applied at a rate of
no more than 0.5 pounds N/lOOO ft2 per application.
The maximum application rates for controlled-release
fertilizers depend on the percent that is water soluble
and the release rates of the product. Never broadcast
fertilizers on newly bedded plants. Apply the appropriate
amounts to the individual plant within the area under
the plant canopy, which usually indicates the major
root area.
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For additional information on landscape plants grown in
soil, see IFAS Publication SL-141, IFAS Standardized
Fertilization Recommendations for Environmental
Horticulture Crops, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CN011.
Palms
Palms have different nutritional requirements than most
other landscape plants. In Florida's rock, muck, and
sandy soils, palms may be especially prone to K, Mg, Mn,
Fe, and B deficiencies. If you suspect deficiencies in a
palm tree, take a leaf to your Cooperative Extension
Service agent for assistance. In general, fertilizers or sup-
plements should be applied to supply N, P, K, and Mg at
about an 8:2:12:4 ratio. The N, K and Mg should be in a
slow-release form. In addition, 1 to 2 percent Fe and Mn,
and trace amounts of Zn, Cu, and B, may be needed.
For more information on palms and palm deficiencies,
see Fertilization of Field-grown and Landscape Palms in
Florida, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP261 or Nutrient
Deficiencies of Landscape and Field-grown Palms in
Florida, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP273.
[
WHERE AND HOW TO FERTILIZE
Fertilizer should be broadcast uniformly over the
desired areas of the landscape. Root location, fertiliza-
tion objectives, and plant species should be considered.
Areas where tree or shrub fertilization zones overlap
with lawn fertilization zones should receive one,
not two, fertilizations. Start with the lowest recom-
mended rate and slowly increase to amount up to the
maximum recommendation only if the plant requires it.
Foliar applications, injections, or implants should only
be used when the soil application of fertilizer is imprac-
tical or ineffective in achieving fertilization objectives.
When applying foliar fertilizer, the fertilizer solution
should be thoroughly sprayed to cover the affected
foliage at the proper stage of growth to achieve
objectives.
Make sure your fertilizer spreader is properly calibrated
and on the correct setting to deliver the desired amount
of fertilizer for the area being treated. This is discussed
in more detail in the section on calibrating pesticide
spreaders in the next chapter and in the publication
below. For more information, see the following:
IFAS Publication How to Calibrate Your Fertilizer
Spreader, IFAS Publication ENH 62, 2003. Available at:
http://edis. ifas. ufl. edu/LH02 4.
IFAS Publication Fertilization Recommendations
for Landscape Plants, G.W. Knox, T. Broschat, and
R.]. Black, IFAS Publication ENH 858, 2002.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EPl14.
FERTILIZER STORAGE AND LOADING
If not handled properly, fertilizers can alter or degrade the
environment. Nutrients such as Nand P in fertilizers can
lead to the excessive growth of algae and noxious plants
in estuaries, lakes, and streams.
Mishandling of fertilizers containing nitrates may result
in excessively high levels of nitrate in drinking-water
supplies (greater than 10 parts per million [ppm]of
N03-N). This has been linked to health problems such
as blue baby syndrome (methemoglobinemia) in infants.
Because the state's aquifers and surface waters are exten-
sively interconnected, Florida requires all potentially
potable ground water to meet drinking-water standards.
For nitrate, federal and state regulations set the drink-
ing-water standard at 10 ppm N03-N. Shallow wells
(less than 50 feet in depth) and old wells with faulty
casings are at the highest risk for nitrate contamination.
STORAGE
Always store nitrate-based fertilizers separately from
solvents, fuels, and pesticides, since nitrate fertilizers
are oxidants and can accelerate a fire. Ideally, fertilizer
should be stored in a concrete building with a metal or
other flame-resistant roof.
Take care when storing fertilizer to prevent the
contamination of nearby ground water and surface
water. Always store fertilizer in an area that is protected
from rainfall. Storing dry bulk materials on a concrete
or asphalt pad may be acceptable if the pad is adequate-
ly protected from rainfall and from water flowing across
the pad. The secondary containment of stationary liquid
fertilizer tanks is addressed in Florida Department of
Environmental Protection Rules 62-761 and 62-762,
Florida Administrative Code (fA.C.). Even where not
required, the use of secondary containment is sound
practice.
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008 II
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LOADING
Load fertilizer into application equipment away from
wells or surface waterbodies. A concrete or asphalt pad
with rainfall protection is ideal, as it permits the easy
recovery of spilled material. If this is not feasible, loading
at random locations in the field can prevent a buildup of
nutrients in one location. Fertilizers contaminated with
pesticides may damage plants or generate hazardous
wastes.
Clean up spilled fertilizer materials immediately.
Collected material may be applied as a fertilizer. At fixed
sites, the area can be cleaned by sweeping or vacuuming
(or with a shovel or loader, if a large spill), or by wash-
ing down the loading area to a containment basin specif-
ically designed to permit the recovery and reuse of the
wash water. Wash water generated should be collected
and applied to the target crop. Discharging this wash
water to waterbodies, wetlands, storm drains, or septic
systems is illegal.
For more information, see Best Management Practices for
Agrichemical Handling and Fann Equipment Maintenance,
published by the Florida Department of Agriculture
and Consumer Services and the Florida Department of
Environmental Protection, May 1998.
SOIL TESTING
Although it may not be an essential practice for the
everyday maintenance of a healthy landscape, testing to
determine the soil's chemical properties before installing
turfgrass or landscape plants is a recommended practice.
Through soil testing, the initial soil pH and P level can
be determined. Soil pH is important in determining
which turfgrass is most adapted to initial soil conditions
(bahiagrass and centipedegrass are not well adapted to
soil with a pH greater than 7.0). Since it is not easy to
reduce the pH of soil on a long-term basis, you should
use St. Augustinegrass or bermudagrass on high-pH
soils.
After initial soil testing, additional testing may only be
required when fertility problems arise and the responses
to fertilization are poor.
Soil testing is an applied science and can be used as one
of the tools in the maintenance of healthy turfgrass and
landscapes. For the effective management of nutrients,
soil testing should be used in conjunction with tissue
testing. Soil test recommendations are based on a corre-
lation between the level of a given nutrient extracted
from the soil and the anticipated plant response. The
amount of nutrients extracted by a particular extractant
is only an index relative to crop response. It is not a
direct measure of actual plant nutrient availability.
The levels of extracted P, K, and Mg are divided into five
categories: very low, low, medium, high, and very high.
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
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Figure 23. Taking a soil sample.
For more information, see your county Cooperative
Extension Service agent or IFAS Publication SL-181,
Soil Testing and Interpretation for Florida TUlfgrasses, at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS31 7.
SOIL SAMPLING METHODOLOGY
The soil test and resulting recommendations are only
as representative as the sample itself. Therefore, it is
imperative that the soil sample be taken and handled
properly. The sample
should be obtained by
taking 15 to 20 small
plugs at random over the
entire area where infor-
mation is desired. Avoid
any unusual areas or areas
with a specific identifying
appearance. Areas with
identifying characteristics
should be sampled sepa-
rately. For turfgrass, since
most of the roots are in
the top 4 inches of soil,
limit the sampling depth
to 4 inches. For landscape
plants, the sampling
depth should be no more
than 6 inches.
Place the plugs that have
been collected into a
,
Figure 24. Soil Core.
f
plastic container, mix them thoroughly, and send
approximately 1 pint of the mixed sample to the
Extension Service Testing Laboratory (ESTL) for chemi-
cal analysis. Several commercial laboratories also offer
the same service in Florida. You should use the same
laboratory on a continued basis to establish a historical
log of your soil properties. Laboratories across the state
do not use the same extractant, so if you change labs
often you may be comparing results obtained by differ-
ent methods.
,.
..
SOIL TEST INTERPRETATION
A soil analysis supplies a wealth of information on
the nutritional status of a soil and can detect potential
problems that limit plant growth. A routine soil analy-
sis supplies information on soil pH and the extractable
P, K, Ca, and Mg status of the soil. The ESTL currently
uses Mehlich-I as an extractant on all the acidic
mineral soils in the state and AB-DTPA (Ammonium
Bicarbonate-DTPA) extractant on soils with pH above
7.3 (calcareous soils).
~
The IFAS Everglades Extension Soils Laboratory
currently uses acetic acid to extract nutrients from all
organic soils. Therefore, the extractants are calibrated
to different soil types. These extraction procedures
must be ascertained when approaching any laboratory
for a soil analysis. The routine analysis includes a lime
requirement determination if the soil pH is below 6.0.
N is not determined, because in most soils it is highly
mobile and its soil status varies greatly with rainfall and
irrigation events.
Table 7 presents interpretation ranges for soil test
levels of P, K, Mg, Mn, Zn, and Cu. For detailed expla-
nations of soil tests and interpretation, see IFAS
Publication SL-I8I, Soil Testing and Interpretation for
Florida Turfgrasses,at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS3I7.
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Note that there is no interpretation made for soil test
Ca or Fe. No interpretation is made [or Mehlich-l
extractable Ca levels because the extractant dissolves
Ca compounds, which may not be readily plant avail-
able. Thus, the amount of plant-available Ca can be
erroneously interpreted. In most cases, Ca levels are
adequate for turfgrass growth because Florida soils are
inherently high in Ca, have a history of Ca fertilization,
or receive Ca regularly through irrigation with high-Ca
water. The soil test level for Mehlich-I extractable Ca is
used only to determine the type of limestone needed
when lime is recommended. For most soils and turf-
grasses, liming to ensure an adequate soil pH ensures
more-than-adequate Ca. Research has shown no turf-
grass response to added Ca, from either liming materi-
als or gypsum, when the Mehlich-I extractable Ca level
is above 250 ppm.
The ESTL does not analyze for extractable Fe because
definitive interpretation data are lacking. Significant
correlation of soil test Fe levels with plant tissue levels
is also lacking. The testing procedures tend to produce
highly variable results. Most soils, except those having
a pH greater than 7.0, generally contain adequate levels
of Fe for optimum growth. Turfgrasses grown on soils
with pH greater than 6.5 exhibit a greening response to
Fe applied as a foliar spray. Unfortunately, reapplication
may be required on a frequent basis to sustain the
desired color.
For more information on fertilizing landscape plants,
see IFAS publication SL-I4I, Standardized Fertilization
Recommendations for Environmental Horticulture Crops,
at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CNOII.
TISSUE TESTING
Because of the mobility of most essential nutrients for
landscape plant and turfgrass growth in Florida soils,
one of the best indicators of appropriate fertilization
and plant health is tissue analysis. Since turfgrass is a
perennial crop, historical logs of tissue composition can
be used to fine-tune a turfgrass fertilization program for
optimum plant growth and minimum environmental
impact. Leaf analysis, along with appearance and soil
analysis, can be used to diagnose the problems and the
effectiveness of a fertilization program, especially for
micronutrient deficiencies. Soil analysis for some nutri-
ents, because it is a snapshot of what is present at the
time of sampling, does not always indicate their avail-
ability to plants. Potential nutrient deficiencies can be
detected with leaf analysis before visual symptoms
Table 7: Suggested ranges for Mehlich-1 extractable soil nutrient levels for Florida turfgrasses.
Macronutrients* Micronutrients**
P K Mg Mn Zn Cu
Parts per million (ppm)
16-30 36-60 20-30 3-9 0.5-3 0.1-0.5
r
, Medium ranges of Mehlich-l extractoble P, K, ond Mg when in 25 percent of the coses 0 response to applied fertilization would be expected.
.. Soils testing below these levels of micronutrients are expected to respond to applied micronutrients. The interpretation of soil test micronutrient levels is based on soil pH. The smaller number is for
soils with 0 pH of less than 6,0, and the larger number is for soils with 0 pH of 7.0 or greater, Mehlich-l extractable micronutrient levels ore only determined when requested and require on addi.
tional charge,
Department of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008 II
.....
Q:)
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appear. Leaf analysis may provide information on
induced deficiencies and inferences on plant uptake.
TISSUE SAMPLING METHODOLOGY
Clippings can be collected during regular mowing
practices for tissue analysis. It is essential that the
clippings are free of sand and fertilizer contamination.
Do not harvest clippings immediately after fertilization,
top-dressing, or any other cultural practice that results
in significant mower pickup. Place approximately a
handful of well-mixed clippings in a paper bag. Do not
place the clippings in a plastic bag because the clip-
pings may begin fermenting prior to drying.
If facilities exist at your location, dry the collected clip-
pings at approximately 700C (l580F) for 24 hours and
then mail them to your favorite analytical laboratory for
analysis. If you do not have dry facilities, ship them,
preferably overnight, to the analytical laboratory. Even
if placed in a paper bag, if the sample is allowed to sit
for more than a couple of days the tissue will begin to
ferment and the value of the sample for analytical pur-
poses will be lost.
SAMPLE CONTAMINATION
Turfgrass clippings that have been recently sprayed with
micronutrients for fungicidal or nutritional purposes
should not be used for micronutrient analysis. Washing
recently unsprayed clippings to remove soil and dust
particles is recommended prior to sending the samples
to the lab for analysis. If you wash one collection of
clippings and not all, the nutritional analyses may not
be comparable because the concentration of some nutri-
ents in tissue, such as K, is highly mobile and a portion
of the K may be removed during washing. Unwashed
samples may appear to have a much higher concentra-
tion than the washed samples, and you may suspect a
deficiency in the washed samples when in fact an ade-
quate supply of K exists.
INTERPRETATION OF RESULTS
Sufficiency levels of essential nutrients in the various
turfgrass species do not vary much among the various
species, except for N. The sufficiency tissue N concen-
tration can vary from a low of 1.5 percent for cen-
tipedegrass or bahiagrass to a high of 3.5 percent in
cool-season, overseeded ryegrass. Table 8 lists the suffi-
ciency ranges for tissue N concentration for the various
turfgrasses used in lawns. In most cases, tissue N con-
centrations below the minimum of the range would be
deficient and above the range would be excessive.
The concentration of other macro and micronutrients
in the tissue does not vary greatly among the various
species of turfgrasses. The sufficiency ranges in Table 9
are applicable to most of Florida's turfgrass species. All
of these values are on a dry weight basis.
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These values represent the range over which a particu-
lar nutrient might vary across the various species of
turfgrasses. They represent sufficiency ranges, which
suggests that levels below the range may indicate a defi-
ciency or above the range may represent excessive fer-
tilization or toxicity.
The sufficiency ranges in the tables show the most
current interpretation for nutrient concentrations in
turfgrass tissue. If analytical test results are in the
deficiency range or below the sufficiency range, an
increase in fertilization for that nutrient is recom-
mended. Alternatively, if test results fall above the
sufficiency range, the fertilization program should be
adjusted downward. If a change in fertilization is
indicated, the adjustment should be reasonable. The
intent is to find the correct nutrient management level
that maintains turfgrass tissue nutrient concentration
within the optimum range, but does not lead to over-
fertilization and possible adverse environmental and
economic results.
SUMMARY
Fertilization is one of the key management practices in
establishing and maintaining healthy, actively growing
turfgrass. The desires of the individual lawn owner or
turfgrass manager often dictate the level of fertility
management. Due to environmental concerns, some
Table 8: Sufficiency ranges of tissue N concentration for selected lawn turfgrasses.
N(%)
St. Augustine
2.0 - 3.0
Zoysia
2.0 - 3.0
Bermuda
2.5 - 3.5
Centipede
1.5 - 2.5
Bahia
1.5 - 2.5
Rye
3.5 - 5.5
K
~g
Table 9: Sufficiency concentration ranges for selected macro and micronutrients in turfgrass tissue
B
p
0.20 - 0.50
0.15 - 0.50
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRAGICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
50 - 250
Fe
Cu
~n
ppm
25 - 100
Zn
5 - 30
20 - 250
5 - 20
think that less fertilization is always best, but research
shows that fewer nutrients are lost from the surface or
leached through a healthy, well-maintained turfgrass
than an unhealthy, sparsely established turfgrass.
irrigation may result in volatilization and inefficient
use of fertilizer.
The importance of proper irrigation during fertilization
cannot be overemphasized. Excessive irrigation after
fertilization may cause leaching or runoff, and a lack of
Due to the prevalence of streets, driveways, and other
impervious areas, it is very important to ensure no fertil-
izers are left where they can run off into stormwater sys-
tems or water bodies. Defiector shields should always be
used near boundaries with water or impervious areas.
BMPS FOR TURFGRASS AND LANDSCAPE FERTILIZATION
I-
· Do not fertilize if a heavy rainfall is expected, especially tropical or frontal weather systems.
~
· Avoid both leaching and surface runoff. Match the product to the situation. Remember that all fertilizers, even slow release
products, contain nutrients and can cause pollution if allowed to escape the root zone.
· Correct other deficiencies first. Be aware of the effects soil pH, shade, overwatering, or other stresses may have on the
plants. Be sure fertilizer is the correct response to the problem.
· Remember that rate and timing of N fertilization depends on the turfgrass species, season of the year, level of maintenance
desired, source of N applied, and location in the state.
· limit water-soluble (quick release) Nitrogen applications to 0.5 Ib./l 000 ft2. This includes the water soluble part of slow-
release blends. limit total N to 1 Ib'/1000ft2 per the Urban Turf Rule.
· P application should be limited to soils that require additional P based on soil or tissue testing.
· limit Nand P fertilization at establishment to one time 30 days after seeding/sodding. Do not add Nor P before installa-
tion, but amend the soil as needed with lime or organic matter.
· Always leave a Ring of Responsibility near water bodies or impervious surfaces. Always use deflector shields on broadcast
or rotary spreaders when applying fertilizer near water or sidewalks, driveways and streets.
· Sweep any fertilizer left on impervious areas back into the vegetated area.
· Become proficient in reading and understanding the fertilizer label.
· Know the exact square footage of the area where fertilizer is being applied and make sure the spreader/application equip-
ment is properly calibrated and set to deliver the correct amount of fertilizer to that area.
· Become knowledgeable in soil sampling procedures and soil test interpretation.
· When fertilizing (other than when watering restrictions apply), irrigate with 1/4 inch of water following fertilization to avoid
the loss of nitrogen and increase uptake efficiency. If water restrictions apply, you may irrigate as you are allowed, but more
than 1/2 inch may cause some nitrogen to be leached past the root zone.
· Use Fe and/or Mn instead of N to enhance turfgrass color on soils having a pH greater than 7.0, especially during times of
enhanced rainfall.
~
· Maintain a healthy, actively growing turfgrass to minimize the environmental impact of fertilizer and pesticide application,
erosion, and stormwater runoff.
· There is no significant difference between liquid or dry applications of similar products. In terms of BMPs for environmental
protection, the proper application of fertilizer is more important than the type of product.
[
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Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
.....
Chapter 6: Pest Control . .
~ LEGAL ISSUES
,.., DEFINITIONS
A pest is anything that competes with humans, domestic
animals, or desirable plants for food or water; injures
humans, animals, desirable plants, structures, or posses-
sions; spreads disease to humans, domestic animals,
wildlife, or desirable plants; or annoys humans or
domestic animals.
Types of pests include the following:
· Arthropods such as insects and arachnids;
· Microbial organisms such as bacteria, fungi, viruses,
and Mycoplasma;
· Weeds, which are plants growing in an area where they
are not wanted;
· Nematodes;
· Mollusks such as snails and slugs; and
· Vertebrate pests.
Under Florida law (Chapter 482 Florida Statutes),
integrated pest management (IPM) is defined as the
following:
. . . the selection, integration, and implementation
of multiple pest control techniques based on pre-
dictable economic, ecological, and sociological con-
sequences, making maximum use of naturally
occurring pest controls, such as weathel; disease
agents, and parasitoids, using various biological,
physical, chemical, and habitat modification meth-
ods of control, and using artificial controls only as
required to keep particular pests from surpassing
intolerable population levels predetermined from an
accurate assessment of the pest damage potential
and the ecological, sociological, and economic cost
of other control measures.
LICENSING REQUIREMENTS FOR PESTICIDE USE
IN LAWN AND LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCE
Not only should pesticides be used carefully, existing
laws regarding pesticide applications and licensing
requirements for conducting a business should also be
complied with. There are three categories of licenses,
(local occupational license, limited certification for com-
merciallandscape maintenance license, or a pest control
business license and a certified operators certificate)
that could apply to persons who practice landscape
maintenance as a business.
, I
In most cases, if a person or company is providing
services that only include mowing, edging, landscaping,
and fertilizing, only a county or municipal occupational
license is needed. (This does not apply to "weed and
feed" or "insect control" applications.)
· If a person or company also applies any herbicide (even a
granular product of a pesticide coated onto fertilizer), fun-
gicide, or insecticide, to residential lawns or plant beds, a
license for pesticide application is required from the
Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services
(FDACS) Bureau of Entomology and Pest Control. Failure
to obtain a license can result in fines up to $5,000. This
includes the application of "weed and feed" or "insect
control" pesticide/fertilizer mixtures to lawns.
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· If the only pesticides applied by a person or business are
herbicides and "caution"-labeled insecticides applied to
plant beds or along the edges of pavement, then a limited
certification for commercial landscape maintenance
license is needed from the Bureau of Entomology and Pest
Control. For this category, each applicator must have a
license. This does NOT allow the application of pesti-
cides to turf or the use of insecticides labeled "Warning"
or "Danger," or the application of "weed and feed" or
"insect control" pesticide/fertilizer mixtures to lawns.
· If any application of any pesticide is made to a lawn as
part of a service provided by a person or business, then a
pest control business license and a certified operators
certificate are needed from the Bureau of Entomology
and Pest Control. This includes the application of
"weed and feed" or "insect control" pesticide/fertilizer
mixtures to lawns.
· Government employees and private business employees
who are applicators also need a pesticide license to
make any applications to lawns or ornamental plants.
This includes the application of "weed and feed" or
"insect control" pesticide/fertilizer mixtures to lawns.
· Information on how to obtain these licenses can be
obtained from FDACS Bureau of Entomology and Pest
Control at (850) 921-4177 or at http://www.Oaes.orgl
aes-entl.
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· Applications of restricted use pesticides made to
parks, cemeteries, and golf courses require a license
obtained through FDACS Bureau of Compliance
Monitoring at (850) 488-3314 or at http://www.Oaes.
orgl comp I imoni torin glindex. h tml.
PESTICIDE RECORD KEEPING
Proper records of all pesticide applications should be kept
according to state or federal requirements. These records
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
help to establish proof of proper use, facilitate the com-
parison of results of different applications, or find the
cause of an error. Records that provide this information
may include the following:
· The date and time of application;
· Name of applicator;
· Person directing or authorizing the application;
~
· Weather conditions at the time of application;
· Target pest;
"
· Pesticide used (trade name, active ingredient, amount
of formulation, amount of water);
· Adjuvant/surfactant and amount applied, if used;
~
· The area treated (acres or square feet) and location;
· Total amount of pesticide used;
· Application equipment;
· Additional remarks, such as the severity of the infesta-
tion or life stage of the pest; and
· Follow-up to check the effectiveness of the application.
RESTRICTED USE PESTICIDES
Certain pesticides are classified as restricted use pesti-
cides (RUPs). Very few pesticides in this category are rou-
tinely used in turf maintenance, but if you happen to use
one of them, certain record-keeping requirements apply.
The Florida pesticide law requires certified applicators to
keep records of all restricted use pesticides. To meet your
legal responsibility and to document your treatment
methods, you need to maintain accurate pesticide records.
Florida regulations require that information on RUPs be
recorded within 2 working days of the application and
maintained for 2 years from the application date. Federal
worker protection standards (WPSs) only apply to pesti-
cide applications made by producers of agricultural prod-
ucts and do not affect Green Industry pesticide applicators.
NOTE: Florida law requires RUP record keeping. See
FDACS Bureau of Entomology and Pest Control regula-
tions for specifics on the regulation. In addition, record
keeping is required to comply with the federal Superfund
Amendments and Reauthorization Act (SARA, Title III),
which contains emergency planning and community
right-to-know legislation.
INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT
The philosophy of IPM was developed in the 1950s
because of concerns over increased pesticide use,
environmental contamination, and the development of
pesticide resistance. The objectives of IPM include
reducing pest management expenses, conserving energy,
and reducing the risk of exposure to people, animals,
and the environment. Its main goal, however, is to
reduce pesticide use by using a combination of tactics to
control pests, including cultural, biological, genetic, and
chemical controls.
The cultural component consists of the proper selection,
establishment, and maintenance (such as mowing/prun-
ing, fertilization, and irrigation) of turf and landscape
plants. Keeping lawns and landscapes healthy reduces
their susceptibility to diseases, nematodes, and insects,
thereby reducing the need for chemical treatment. In the
service industry, unfortunately, many of the cultural
components of IPM are not under the control of the
pesticide application professional. It is essential that
customers be made aware of their responsibility for
cultural factors, whether in doing their own work or in
selecting qualified professionals for third-party activities
such as irrigation and mowing.
The biological component involves the release and/or
conservation of natural enemies (such as parasites,
predators, and pathogens) and other beneficial organ-
isms (such as pollinators). Natural enemies (including
Florida law requires that you record the following items to comply with the restricted use pesticide record-keeping requirement.
· Brand or product name. · Month/day/year/time of application.
· U.S. Environmental Protection Agency registration
number.
· Total amount applied.
· location of application site.
· Size of area treated.
· Crop/variety/target site.
· Name and license number of applicator
{if applicator is not licensed, record his or
her name and supervisor's name and
license number}.
· Method of application.
· Name of person authorizing the application,
if the licensed applicator does not own or lease
the property.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
t::Q
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ladybird beetles, green lacewings, and mantids) may be
purchased and released near pest infestations. However,
the landscape can also be modified to attract natural ene-
mies, provide habitat for them, and protect them from
pesticide applications. For example, flowering plants may
provide parasitoids with nectar, or sucking insects
(aphids, mealybugs, or soft scales) may provide a honey-
dew source when growing on less-valuable plants.
The genetic component relies on the breeding or genetic
engineering of turfgrasses and landscape plants that are
resistant to key pests. Such resistance could increase a
plant's tolerance to damage and weaken or kill the pests.
Pests may also develop more slowly on partially resistant
plants, thereby increasing their susceptibility to natural
enemies or "softer" pesticides. Selecting resistant cultivars
or plant species when designing a landscape is a very
important part of IPM. Although turfgrass and landscape
managers often work with established plant material, they
can still recommend changes. Every opportunity should
be taken to educate builders, developers, landscape archi-
tects, sod producers, and others on which plants are best
suited to their areas.
Chemical controls include a wide assortment of conven-
tional, broad-spectrum pesticides and more selective,
newer chemicals, such as microbial insecticides and
insect growth regulators. IPM is not antipesticide, but it
does promote the use of the least-toxic and most selective
alternatives when chemicals are necessary. Pesticides are
only one weapon against pests and should be used
responsibly and in combination with other, less-toxic
control tactics.
To determine which pesticides are most appropriate for
use, and when and how to use them, consult the appro-
priate pesticide selection guides produced by IFAS.
Whenever practical, limit treatment to infected areas.
Spot spraying lessens pesticide use, saving the application
service money and lowering risk to beneficial organisms,
pets, homeowners, and the environment. Consult with
county Cooperative Extension Service agents, chemical
distributors, product manufacturers, or independent turf
or landscape maintenance consultants.
IPM is commonly used in agricultural crop production,
where the economic thresholds for key pests have been
determined. Using IPM in the urban environment, how-
ever, has been more challenging. The Green Industry is
sensitive to aesthetic damage, and customers are often
intolerant of anything that could affect the appearance of
ornamental plants. Increased education of growers, con-
sumers, and maintenance personnel could raise the aes-
thetic threshold and allow for minor damage without
compromising plant health and beauty.
Another important aspect of a successful IPM program
is pest monitoring. This includes understanding the life
cycle of a pest and knowing which plants and condi-
tions it may prefer. Monitoring populations, understand-
ing historical trends, and knowing where a pest is most
likely to occur can target control practices to a specific
pest in a specific location. Maintaining records and his-
tories of pest populations can help a manager forecast
pest occurrence and apply pesticides wisely.
The monitoring of pest populations presents special
difficulties for the service industry, because the service
professional may only be on-site one day per month or
less. While spot applications are generally preferable, in
certain situations preventative measures may be neces-
sary. This is particularly true where experience has
determined that less pesticide, or a less toxic pesticide,
may be needed when a preventative control is used.
~
The basic steps for IPM programs are as follows:
· Identify key pests on key plants.
· Determine the pest's life cycle, and know which life
stage to target (for an insect pest, whether it is an
egg, larva/nymph, pupa, or adult).
· Use cultural, mechanical, or physical methods to
prevent problems from occurring (for example,
prepare the site, select resistant cultivars), reduce
pest habitat (for example, practice good sanitation,
carry out pruning and dethatching), or promote
biological control (for example, provide nectar or
honeydew sources).
t
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· Decide which pest management practice is appropri-
ate and carry out corrective actions. Direct control
where the pest lives or feeds. Use preventative chemi-
cal applications only when your professional judg-
ment indicates that properly timed preventative appli-
cations are likely to control the target pest effectively
while minimizing the economic and environmental
costs.
. Determine if the "corrective actions" actually reduced
or prevented pest populations, were economical, and
minimized risks. Record and use this information
when making similar decisions in the future.
~
For more information on IPM, see IFAS Publication
ENY-336, Integrated Pest Management in the Commercial
Ornamental Nursery, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IGI44.
PESTICIDE USE
Pesticides are designed to kill or alter the behavior of
pests. When, where, and how they can be used safely
and effectively is a matter of considerable public inter-
est. If they are not used wisely, pesticides may pose
risks to pesticide applicators and other exposed people,
and may create long-term environmental problems.
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
r
The best way to manage pesticide storage and disposal
is to reduce the amount of pesticide left over after
applications through proper planning and equipment
calibration. Faulty or improperly managed storage
facilities may result in direct runoff or leaching of
pesticides into surface water and ground water. Users
may be held liable for damage caused by improperly
stored or disposed pesticides.
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Pesticide spills can be especially problematic. Even
pesticides designed for rapid breakdown in the environ-
ment can persist for years if present in high concentra-
tions. The results can be the contamination of drinking
water, fish kills and other impacts to nontargeted organ-
isms, and administrative fines and legal remedies. It is
important that pesticide users protect themselves from
all of these hazards.
~
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The most obvious method to reduce the risk from pesti-
cides is to use them only when necessary. Determine
which pesticides are the most useful and least environ-
mentally harmful for a given situation. Apply them
GENERAL PESTICIDE BMPS
The following general BMPs should always be used for
pesticides:
· Develop - and implement a quality IPM program.
· labels - Observe all directions, restrictions, and pre-
cautions on pesticide labels. It is dangerous, wasteful,
and illegal to do otherwise.
)
· Storage - Store pesticides behind locked doors in
original containers with label intact, separate from
seed and fertilizer.
· Rate - Use pesticides at the correct application rate
and recommended intervals between applications to
avoid injury to plants and animals.
· Handling - Never eat, drink, or smoke when han-
dling pesticides, and always wash with soap and
water after use.
I
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· Rinsing - Triple-rinse containers into the spray tank.
Never pour pesticides down a drain or into an area
exposed to humans, animals, or water.
~
· Disposal - Dispose of used containers in compliance
with label directions so that water contamination and
other hazards will not result.
r
· Clothing - Always wear protective clothing when
applying pesticides. At a minimum, wear a long-
sleeved shirt, long-legged pants, rubber gloves, boots
(never go barefoot or wear sandals), eye protection,
and a wide-brimmed hat. Additional protective gear
may be listed on the pesticide label.
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properly and effectively to minimize costs and the
effects on public health and the environment while max-
imizing plant response. Give particular attention to the
vulnerability of the site to ground water or surface water
contamination from leaching or runoff.
A pest-control strategy should be used only when the pest
is causing or is expected to cause more damage than what
can be reasonably and economically tolerated. A control
strategy should be implemented that reduces the pest
numbers to an acceptable level while minimizing harm to
non targeted organisms. The strategy of IPM is as follows
· Prevention-keeping a pest from becoming a problem,
and then, if needed,
· Suppression-reducing pest numbers or damage to an
acceptable level.
Always follow the directions on the label. These direc-
tions have been developed after extensive research and
field studies on the chemistry, biological effects, and
environmental fate of the pesticide. The label is the sin-
gle most important document in the use of a pesticide.
State and federal pesticide laws require following label
directions!
PESTICIDE SELECTION
Identifying or recognizing pests is essential to proper
pesticide application and selection. Once the pest has
been identified, the best control method must be chosen.
If a pesticide is to be used, the applicator must know the
proper application technique and read the label thor-
oughly. Pesticides should be evaluated on effectiveness
against the pest, mode of action, life stage of the pest,
personnel hazards, non-target effects, leaching or runoff
potential, and cost.
PESTICIDE SElEGION BMPS
· Develop and implement a quality IPM program.
· Train employees in proper pest identification and pes-
ticide selection techniques.
· Choose the product most appropriate for the problem
or pest.
· Mix only the quantity of pesticide needed in order to
avoid disposal problems, protect non-targeted organ-
isms, and save money.
· Spot treat pests whenever appropriate.
· Read and follow all label directions. The label is a
l'egal document.
· Make note of any ground water advisories on the
label.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
PESTICIDE STORAGE
If you store pesticides for your operation, this storage
~ust be properly const.ructed and ~aintained to prevent
~""IJroblems or an expensIve cleanup m the event of an acCl-
QIent. The best way to minimize storage problems is to
~minimize the amount you store. Purchasing only small
amounts that you can use quickly is the best approach for
many turf management professionals. If you have to store
pesticides, follow these guidelines:
· Design and build pesticide storage structures to keep
pesticides secure and isolated from the surrounding
environment.
· Store pesticides in a roofed concrete or metal structure
with a lockable door.
· Keep pesticides in a separate facility, or at least in a
locked area separate from areas used to store other
materials, especially fertilizers, feed, and seed.
· Do not store pesticides near flammable materials, hot
work (welding, grinding), or in shop areas.
· Do not allow smoking in pesticide storage areas.
Figure 25. Pesticide storage areas should be locked.
Store personal protective equipment (PPE) where it
is easily accessible in an emergency, but not in the
pesticide storage area (since that may make it unavail-
able during an emergency). Check the label and the
1
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) to determine the
required safety equipment for each chemical used in the
operation. Keep a written pesticide inventory and the
MSDS file for the chemicals on site. Do not store this
information in the pesticide storage room itself.
Remember that PPE is specified for normal application
and handling activities. Regular PPE may not be protec-
tive in emergency situations, such as fires or reactions
with other spilled chemicals.
Depending on the products stored and the quantity,
you may need to register the facility with the Florida
Department of Community Affairs and your local
emergency response agency. Check with your pesticide
dealer about community right-to-know laws for the
materials that you purchase. An emergency response
plan should be in place and familiar to personnel before
an emergency occurs, such as a lightning strike, fire, or
hurricane. Individuals conducting emergency pesticide
cleanups should be properly trained under the require-
ments of the federal Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA). For reporting chemical spills,
see the section on spill reporting requirements later in
this chapter.
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Do not store large quantities of pesticides for long peri-
ods. Adopt the "first in-first out" principle, using the
oldest products first to ensure that the product shelf life
does not expire.
Store pesticides in their original containers. Do not put
pesticides in containers that might cause children and
others to mistake them for food or drink. Keep the
containers securely closed and inspect them regularly
for splits, tears, breaks, or leaks. All pesticide containers
should be labeled. Arrange pesticide containers so that
the labels are clearly visible, and make sure that the
labels are legible. Refasten all loose labeling using
non-water soluble glue or sturdy, transparent packaging
tape. Do not refasten labels with rubber bands (which
quickly rot and easily break) or nontransparent tapes
such as duct tape or masking tape (which may obscure
important product caution statements or label directions
for product use). If a label is damaged, immediately
request a replacement from the pesticide dealer or for-
mulator. As a temporary supplement to disfigured or
badly damaged labels, fasten a baggage tag to the con-
tainer handle. On the tag write the product name, for-
mulation, concentration of active ingredient(s), "signal
word," the statement "Keep Out of Reach of Children,"
and the date of purchase. If there is any question about
the contents of the container, set it aside for proper
disposal.
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Dry bags should be raised on pallets to ensure that they
do not get wet. Do not store liquid materials above dry
materials. Store flammable pesticides separately from
nonflammable pesticides.
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
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Segregate herbicides, insecticides, and fungicides to
prevent cross-contamination and minimize the potential
for misapplication. Cross-contaminated pesticides often
cannot be applied in accordance with the labels of each
of the products. This may make it necessary to dispose
of the cross-contaminated materials as wastes and could
require the services of a consultant and hazardous waste
contractor.
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Use shelving made of plastic or reinforced metal. Keep
metal shelving painted (unless made of stainless steel) to
avoid corrosion. If you use wood shelving, paint it with
an enamel or waterproof paint to minimize any absorp-
tion of spilled pesticide materials. It is best to replace
wood shelving with metal or plastic.
Construct floors of seamless metal or concrete sealed
with a chemical-resistant paint. For concrete, use a
water-cement ratio no higher than 0.45:1 by weight, and
leave a rough finish to provide adhesion for the sealant.
Equip the floor with a continuous curb to retain spilled
materials. While a properly sealed sump may be included
to help recover spilled materials, do not install a drain,
as it can release spilled material into the environment.
If you have a drain in a storage area, seal it as soon as
possible to prevent uncontrolled releases. Provide sloped
ramps at the entrance to allow handcarts to safely move
material in and out of the storage area.
When designing the facility, keep in mind that tempera-
ture extremes during storage may reduce safety and
affect pesticide efficacy. Provide automatic exhaust fans
and an emergency wash area. The emergency wash area
should be outside the storage building. Local fire and
electrical codes may require explosion-proof lighting
and fans. The light/fan switches should be outside the
building, and both switches should be turned on before
people enter and should remain on until after they have
left the building.
The BMPs discussed in the next section often address the
ideal situation of newly constructed, permanent facilities.
However, you are encouraged to apply these principles
and ideas to existing facilities.
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Plans and specifications for pesticide storage buildings
are available from several sources, including the the
US Department of Agriculture Natural Resources
Conservation Service (NRCS), the Midwest Plan Service,
and the IFAS Publications Office. These organizations'
publications also contain recommended management
practices for pesticide storage facilities.
Note that cancelled, suspended, or unusable pesticides
must be disposed of properly. Storage for long periods
can lead to leaking containers or other costly problems.
The Florida Department of Environmental Protection and
the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer
Services (FDACS) operate a program for the free
disposal of these materials (Operation Cleansweep,
ph. 877-851-5285 toll-free, or 386-418-5525). For more
information, go to www.dep.state.fl.us/waste/categories/
cleansweep-pesticides. If this program is not available, a
licensed waste disposal contractor should do the disposal.
A good storage facility should have the following features:
. A secure area where unauthorized persons are restrict-
ed from entering.
. Proper labeling on exterior doors, such as signs that
say "NO SMOKING" and "WARNING: PESTICIDE
STORAGE." No-smoking regulations need to be
enforced.
· No opportunity for water to enter.
· Temperature control to avoid excessive cold or heat.
BMPS FOR PESTICIDE STORAGE AND DISPOSAL
The following BMPs should be used for storing and
disposing of pesticides:
. Maintain and follow labels on all pesticide containers.
. Store pesticides only in their original containers or
make sure the new containers are properly labeled.
. Store similar pesticides together; for example, store
herbicides with herbicides, and insecticides with
insecticides.
· Store dry pesticides above liquids.
· Keep containers closed tightly.
· Inspect inventory frequently and watch for damaged
containers.
· Store separately any pesticides that may be flammable.
. limit the amount of inventory, and purchase only the
amounts needed.
· Triple-rinse, puncture, and crush empty containers.
Clean all visible chemical from the container, including
the container cap and cap threads. Follow the label
directions for container disposal.
. Apply unused chemical mixtures or rinsate to a legal
target at or below the label rate, or save it to use as
make-up water for later applications of compatible
materials.
· For cancelled, suspended, or unusable pesticides, con-
tact the FDACS Bureau of Compliance Monitoring at
(850) 488-3314 or go to http://www.flaes.org/ com-
plimonitoring/index.html for guidance.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
CQ
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· Nonporous floors.
· Not located close to a body of water, sinkhole, or
wellhead.
· Adequate lighting and ventilation.
· The ability to contain runoff from spills.
· A source of clean water with prevention of backflow of
chemicals into the water supply.
· Freedom from combustible materials or debris.
· Storage shelves and cabinets of nonporous material that
will not absorb pesticides.
· Shelves or other means of keeping chemicals off wet
floors.
· Materials and equipment to contain and clean up pesti-
cide spills.
· Clean, readily available personal protective equipment
and emergency telephone numbers or other means of
securing assistance in an emergency.
· Appropriate fire extinguishers.
MIXING AND LOADING ACTIVITIES
In most cases, the mixing and loading of pesticides into
application equipment should be done adjacent to the
application site. If chemicals are routinely mixed and
loaded at a shop or storage site, spilled material can
accumulate and expensive cleanup procedures may be
required.
Use extreme caution when handling concentrated
chemicals. Spills could result in an expensive hazard-
ous waste cleanup. It is important to understand how
mixing and loading operations can pollute vulnerable
ground water and surface water supplies if conducted
improperly and at the wrong site. Locate operations
well away from ground water wells and areas where
runoff may carry spilled pesticides into surface water-
bodies. Areas around public water supply wells should
receive special consideration and may be designated
as wellhead protection areas. Before mixing or loading
pesticides in such areas, consult with state and local
government officials to determine if special restrictions
apply.
To prevent problems when mixing chemicals on-site,
use a mixing tray or portable pad to avoid spillage that
could be transported to non-targeted areas. Should a
chemical spill onto the mixing tray, the material should
then be rinsed into the applicator equipment and used
according to the product label.
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For your own safety, always use all personal protective
equipment required by the label.
PESTICIDE EQUIPMENT CALIBRATION
AND LOADING
Keep application equipment properly calibrated and in
good repair. Correct measurement keeps you in compli-
ance with the label; reduces the risks to applicators,
workers, and the environment; and saves you money.
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I' ," ,".,..i '.
. ;..~ ~..;".~ ,
. . ~ : .....;. .,. -" .
'. ....... '.}~. ~,a" ~,' ~,',
'. ...-n,...
.1' t"'.,.'\ " tIt.(.....,~"'...~...,,~J.1 '
....~.-_." f,~',. '~, .....!\..~~ .,i'-,
Figure 26. Calibrate spreaders frequently.
Calibrate using clean water and do not calibrate equip-
ment near wells, sinkholes, or surface waterbodies.
Measure pesticides and diluents accurately to avoid
improper dosing, the preparation of excess or insufficient
mixture, or the preparation of a tankload of mixture at
the wrong strength.
The proper application of pesticides helps to reduce costs
and increase profits. Improper application can result in
wasted chemicals, marginal pest control, excessive carry-
over, or damage to turf or landscape ornamentals. As a
result, inaccurate application is usually very expensive.
Be aware of the proper application methods, chemical
effects on equipment, equipment calibration, and correct
cleaning methods. Sprayers should be calibrated when
new or when nozzles are replaced and recalibrated after
a few hours of use, as new nozzles may wear and the rate
of flow may increase rapidly. For example, wettable pow-
ders may erode nozzle tips, causing an increase in appli-
cation rates after spraying as few as 50 acres. Recalibrate
equipment periodically to compensate for wear in pumps,
nozzles, and metering systems.
The amount of chemical solution applied per unit of
surface area depends on the forward speed, system
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
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pressure, size of nozzle, and spacing of nozzles on the
boom. A change in anyone of these will change the
rate of application. Consult the operator's manual for
detailed information on a particular sprayer. Backpack
sprayers and hand sprayers also can and should be
calibrated, and applicators should be "calibrated" to
determine how much chemical is being applied during
a broadcast application while walking across a lawn.
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Calibration should be performed by measuring the
amount of pesticide applied to a small area (for exam-
ple, 1,000 square feet) and calculating how much would
be applied to a large area. For equipment with more
than one nozzle, be sure to check the flow rates of all
nozzles on the sprayer so they are similar. Equipment
suppliers and pesticide suppliers often supply calibra-
tion equipment or assistance at low or no cost. If you
calculate the return on investment for time spent
calibrating equipment, you will see that even a small
improvement in calibration accuracy can save a signifi-
cant amount of money spent on pesticide that was
wasted because it was over applied.
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BMPS FOR lOADING AND CALIBRATING
PESTICIDE EQUIPMENT
. Mix the pesticide and load the spreader or sprayer
carefully to avoid spills.
. Mix and load pesticides on an impervious mix/load
pad with provisions for collecting and reusing spilled or
waste material.
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. Use excess pesticide mixtures on a site that is specified
on the label.
. Consider closed systems for loading and mixing.
. Triple-rinse containers, pour the rinsate into the spray
tank, and use the excess according to the product label.
. Calibrate your spreader or sprayers.
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Florida law requires an air gap or back-siphoning device
between the water supply and the application equipment
to prevent backflow into the water supply. Never sub-
merge the end of a water supply hose in a tank. This
can lead to the costly contamination of a water supply.
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PESTICIDE APPLICATION EQUIPMENT
WASH WATER
Wash water from pesticide application equipment
must be managed properly, since it could contain
pesticide residues. Ensuring that no pesticide spills
occur on the vehicle by mixing all pesticides over mix-
ing trays eliminates potential pesticide hazards. Sweep
any granular products that have spilled onto the vehicle
or non-targeted areas into labeled bags for later use.
Wash the vehicle in a designated wash area. The water
hose should have an on/off valve and a water-reducing
nozzle. Use the least amount of water possible to wash
the equipment adequately. Motorized spray equipment
can be rinsed of pesticides residues over turf areas at the
job site where the rinsate will be used according to the
product label. These practices prevent unwanted pesti-
cide residues from being washed onto non-targeted
areas. Avoid conducting such washing in the vicinity
of wells or surface waterbodies.
For most turf application equipment, the inside of the
application tank should be rinsed. This is done by
filling it with water and then applying the rinse water
in the same manner and at the same site as the original
pesticide. For larger equipment that is loaded at a
central facility, the inside of the application equipment
should be washed on the mix/load pad. This rinsate may
be applied as a pesticide (preferred) or stored for use as
make-up water for the next compatible application.
Otherwise it must be treated as a (potentially
hazardous) waste. After washing the equipment and
before an incompatible product is handled, the sump
should be cleaned of any liquid and sediment.
PESTICIDE SPILL MANAGEMENT
Clean up spills as soon as possible. Unmanaged spills
may quickly move into surface waters and injure plants
and animals. It is essential to be prepared for major or
minor spills. The sooner you can contain, absorb, and
dispose of a spill, the less chance there is that it will
cause harm. Always use the appropriate personal protec-
tive equipment as indicated on the MSDS and the label
for a chemical. In addition, follow the following four
steps:
. CONTROL actively spilling or leaking materials by
setting the container upright, plugging leak(s), or
shutting the valve.
. CONTAIN the spilled material using barriers and
absorbent material. For small spills, use kitty litter,
vermiculite, shredded newspaper, absorbent pillows,
clean sand, or pads. Use dikes to direct large spills
away from ditches, storm drains, ponds, sinkholes, or
woods. You can also use products such as "Soak Up"
to absorb spilled materials. These types of products
allow the absorbed material to be diluted into the
spray mixture and applied as usable pesticide.
· COLLECT spilled material, absorbents, and leaking
containers and place them in a secure, properly labeled
container. Some contaminated materials could require
disposal as hazardous waste.
· STORE the containers of spilled material until
they can be applied as a pesticide or appropriately
disposed of.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
Small liquid spills may be cleaned up by using an
ct::absorbent such as cat litter, diluting it with soil, and
Ohen applying the absorbent to the target site as a pesti-
l~cide in accordance with the label instructions.
SPILL REPORTING REQUIREMENTS
Comply with all applicable federal, state, and local regula-
tions regarding spill response training for employees, spill
reporting requirements, spill containment, and cleanup.
Keep spill cleanup equipment available when handling
pesticides or their containers.
If a spill occurs for a pesticide covered by certain state
and federal laws, you may need to report any accidental-
release if the spill quantity exceeds the "reportable
quantity" of active ingredient specified in the law. See
Appendix A for important telephone numbers for report-
ing pesticide spills. Very few of the pesticides routinely
used in turf management are covered under these require-
ments. A complete list of pesticides and reportable quan-
tities is available at http://www.floridadisaster.orglcps/
SERC/htcl.htm.
Table 10 provides reportable quantities for some common
pesticides, but it is your responsibility to determine if a
pesticide you use has a reportable quantity. The list in the
table should not be used as a substitute for a review of
the official Section 304 list provided at the website above.
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Table 10: Reportable quantities for certain pesticides
Chemical Name Brand Name CAS Number EHS RQ CERCLA RQ
Atrazine AAtrex 1912249 N/A N/A
Fenoxycarb Logic 74490-01-8 N/A N/A
Hydramethylnon Maxforce 67485- 29-4 N/A N/A
Malathion Cythion 121-75-5 N/A 100
Methiocarb Mesurol 2032-65-7 10 10
Simazine Princep 122-34-9 N/A N/A
Trifluralin Treflan 1582098 N/A 10
(For 0 complete list call (850)413-9970, or go to http://www.Aoridadisaster.orQ/cps/SERC/htc1.html. Reportable quantities ore given in pounds 01 active ingredient.
Public law 96-510 and Public law 92-5000 (CERCLA) require immediate notification of the appropriate U.S. governmental agency
when oil or hazardous substances are discharged. The law states, "Any such person who fails to notify immediately such agency of
such discharge shall, upon conviction, be fined not more than $10,000 or imprisoned for not more than one year, or both."
Under Chapters 376 and 403, Florida Statutes:
· Any owner or operator of a facility who has knowledge of any release of a hazardous substance from a facility in a quantity equal
to or exceeding the reportable quantity (see the MSDS sheet) in a 24-hour period shall immediately notify the State Warning Point.
· The owner or operator having a discharge of petroleum products exceeding 25 gallons on a pervious surface (or any amount in
a waterbody) must report such discharge to the Florida Department of Environmental Protection or the State Warning Point.
The penalty is not in reporting a spill; it is in failing to report a spill.
REPORT THE FOllOWING INFORMATION
· Name, address, and telephone number of person reporting.
· Name, address, and telephone number of person responsible for the discharge or release, if known.
· Date and time of the discharge or release.
· Type or name of the substance discharged or released.
· Estimated amount of the discharge or release.
· location or address of the discharge or release.
· Source and cause of the discharge or release.
· Size and characteristics of the area affected by the discharge or release.
· Containment and cleanup actions taken to date.
· Other persons or agencies contacted.
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FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
(
MANAGEMENT OF PESTS IN THE LANDSCAPE
WEED MANAGEMENT
Florida law defines a weed as a plant growing where it
is not wanted. Plants often earn their reputations as
weeds if they grow without care or cultivation and
despite efforts to get rid of them. Weeds compete with
desired plants for space, water, light, and nutrients and
can harbor insect pests and diseases. The predominant
weed species change from season to season in Florida.
Because weed populations can explode if not kept in
check, the amount of pressure from these pest plants
remains consistently high.
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Weeds reproduce from seed, root pieces, and special
vegetative reproductive organs such as tubers, corms,
rhizomes, stolons, or bulbs. People, animals, birds,
wind, and water can distribute seeds. Many of the weeds
that show up in landscape beds come from seeds. Weeds
also arrive in landscape beds when their reproductive
tissues and organs are in the soil of transplants. Weed
rhizomes or stolons can also creep into a landscape bed
from an adjacent infested area. Plastic or metal edging
that penetrates several inches into the ground around
the perimeter of the bed reduces the likelihood of weed
infestations from rhizomes or stolons.
Preventative weed control is important. Removing estab-
lished weeds from landscape beds can be time consum-
ing and/or expensive. Weed infestations will probably
have to be removed by hand, as there are a limited num-
ber of herbicides available that can be safely applied
over the top of and around most landscape plants. For
Green Industry service personnel, the application of
most herbicides must be done by licensed pest-control
professionals. For more information, see the IFAS web-
site: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC Ornamental Pests.
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INSECTS AND OTHER ORGANISMS
Fewer than 1 percent of all insects are harmful to plants
and many are actually beneficial, acting as predators or
parasites of harmful insects and assisting in the cross-
pollination of certain plants. Remember that disease,
nutritional deficiencies, cultural treatments, and environ-
mental conditions can cause a plant to appear unhealthy
or discolored, so it is important to diagnose a problem
correctly before remedial measures are taken. Some
plants in the urban landscape are oversprayed, resulting
in unnecessary environmental contamination and often
upsetting the natural predator/parasite-pest balance.
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Think about all of the control options available under
IPM. Before using a chemical control method for an
active pest infestation, look around the landscape to see
if predatory or parasitic insects are present to control
your pest problem. If you must spray, use the least-toxic
remedy possible and exercise great care to avoid contam-
inating yourself and other living creatures.
In general, IPM calls for pesticides to be applied as need-
ed when plants have an active infestation and significant
damage is likely. However, some pest problems may be
best handled with preventative measures, such as the use
of residual Imidacloprid to target chinch bug nymphs as
they emerge from their eggs. Preventative application
measures should not be routine but should be based on
your professional knowledge of the control agent or
method, the pest's life cycle, environmental conditions,
and historical data. Use preventative chemical applica-
tions only when your professional judgment indicates
that properly timed, preventative applications are likely to
control the target pest effectively while minimizing eco-
nomic and environmental costs.
In addition to Florida's abundance of native pests, land-
scape workers need to be aware of imported plant pests,
their identification and control. In the last several years,
these pests have caused substantial economic damage and
an increase in the use of pesticides. The effects caused by
citrus canker and greening are just two examples of dis-
eases that have devastated a sector of Florida's economy.
Insect examples in the landscape include the Asian cycad
scale, pink hibiscus mealybug, Chilli Thrips, Lobate Lac
Scale, Ficus whitefly, and many others.
Florida's tropical climate and international status predis-
poses us to imported plant pests. We have a history of the
rapid spread of these imported pests to landscape plants.
The normal problems of pest control are made worse by:
· No populations of beneficial predators,
· Poor or slow problem identifications,
. No basis for control product selection
. It requires the constant awareness that new pest prob-
lems are likely.
Employers and employees must be vigilant and seek
additional training from IFAS, which is the key source of
diagnostic and control information for these exotic pests.
For more information on IPM and insect pests, see the
following:
· IFAS Publication ENY-337, Commercial Applications of
Insecticides and Miticides in the Green IndustlY, at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IGI45.
· IFAS Publication ENY-338, Insect Management on
Landscape Plants, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG013.
· IFAS Publication ENH-300, Insect Pest Management on
Twfgrass, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IGOO1.
· Featured Creatures at http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 200811
PLANT NEMATODES
Clanatodes are small, unsegmented roundworms, gen-
~dly transparent and colorless; most are slender, with
~dies from 1/100 to 1/8 inch long. Only about 10 per-
~nt of nematodes are estimated to be plant parasites.
Nematodes affect plants by damaging the roots, reduc-
ing their ability to function. For more information, see:
. Nematode Management in Residential Lawns, IFAS
Publication ENY-006, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/NG039.
· Nematode Management for Perennial Landscape Plants,
IFAS Publication ENY-051, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/
IN469.
· The IFAS website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC
Ornamental Pests.
PLANT DISEASES
Plant pathology is the study of plant diseases. Diseases
are caused by microorganisms such as fungi, bacteria,
and viruses. Some disease symptoms, such as leaf spots
and wilting, are easily seen or measured. Others are
difficult to observe (for example, root decay) or are
very subtle (for example, shorter growth flushes).
Detecting the less-obvious symptoms is more difficult
when the diseased plant is the only specimen of its
kind in the landscape and cannot be compared with
a healthy one.
Normally, nonparasitic plant disorders are not included
in the study of diseases, but it is still important to rec-
ognize them. These disorders include improper planting
depth, nutrient imbalances, temperature extremes, toxic
chemicals, mechanical injury, water imbalances, and air
pollution. Most environmentally induced problems tend
to be uniform, whereas disease may show up in spots
throughout a field.
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection 01 Water Resources by the Green Industries
For more information on plant disease, see the following:
· IFAS Publication LH064, Key for Identification of
Landscape TUlfgrass Diseases, at http://edis.ifas.ufl.
edu/LH064.
· IFAS Publication LH040, Turfgrass Disease Management,
at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH040.
DIAGNOSTIC ASSISTANCE
The primary role of the Florida Extension Plant
Diagnostic Clinics (FEPDC) is to determine whether
symptoms in submitted plant samples involve an
infectious causal agent, e.g. fungus, bacterium or virus,
or other cultural or environmental factor that causes
similar symptoms. The goal of the FEPDC system is
to educate clientele by providing plant disease and dis-
order diagnoses and recommendations for preventative
and therapeutic measures. The FEPDC is a fee-based
service provided to any Florida resident by the Plant
Pathology Department of the Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences (IFAS), University of Florida, in
conjunction with the Cooperative Extension Service.
For more information, the nearest laboratory, and fees,
see Sample Submission Guide for Plant Diagnostic Clinics
of the Florida Plant Diagnostic Network. Available at:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SR007.
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The UF-IFAS Rapid Turfgrass Diagnostic Service was
designed and implemented for managers of high quality
turfgrass in Florida. The biggest distinction between
this and the standard services provided by the Plant
Disease Clinic is the turn-around time for sample
results, the direct involvement of the UF Extension
Turfgrass Pathologist, and the price charged for the
service. The price is $75 (in 2008) and reflects the
added costs associated with a full time student dedicat-
ed to turfgrass diagnostics with rapid turn-around time.
http://turfpa th. ifas. ufl. ed u/turfgrass/rapiddiag.sh tml.
References
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Unless otherwise mentioned, references are available from
the Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of
Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida,
Gainesville, FL 32611, or your county Cooperative
Extension Service agent.
Florida Lawn Handbook. Trenholm and Unruh, SP45
Third Edition, 2005. http://ifasbooks.ufl.edul.
..
Best Management Practices for Enhancement of
Environmental Quality on Florida Golf Courses, 2007
Florida Department of Environmental Protection.
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/wa ter/nonpoin t/ docs/
nonpoint/glfbmp07.pdf.
Sample Submission Guide for Plant Diagnostic Clinics of the
Florida Plant Diagnostic Network. Palmateer Et aI., 2008.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SR007.
UF-IFAS Rapid Turfgrass Diagnostic Service.
http://tu rfpa tho ifas. ufl. ed u/turfgrass/rapiddiag. sh tml.
Aquatic Plant Removal Permits: Florida Fish and Wildlife
Conservation Commission Invasive Plant Management
Section. http://myfwc . com!nonna ti ves/In vasiveP Ian ts/
index.htm.
FDEP NPS Publications Page.
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/water/nonpoint/pubs.htm.
Regulation of Landscape Architecture:
http://www.myfloridalicense.com!dbpr/pro/larch/ .
Regulation of Professional Engineering:
http://www.fbpe.orgl.
DESIGN & INSTALLATION REFERENCES
PREPARATION
Basic Principles of Landscape Design, D.L. Ingram, IFAS
Circular 536. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG086.
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I
I
Preparing To Plant a Florida Lawn, L.E. Trenholm, IFAS
Publication ENH-02. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH012.
Establishing Your Florida Lawn, L.E. Trenholm, IFAS
Publication ENH-03. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH013.
Planting Specifications for Landscape Plants,
E.E Gilman, 2003, IFAS Publication ENH 856.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP112.
r
SELECTION
Atlas of Florida Vascular Plants. RP. Wunderlin and B.E
Hansen. 2000. (S.M. Landry and K.N. Campbell
,.
v!
[application development], Florida Center for
Community Design and Research). Tampa, Florida:
Institute for Systematic Botany, University of South
Florida. http://www.plantatlas.usLedu/default.asp.
IFAS landscape tree and shrub site
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woodyl.
Guide to the Vascular Plants of Florida. RP. Wunderlin.
1998. Gainesville, Florida: University Press of Florida.
Selecting a Turfgrass for Florida Lawns, L.E. Trenholm,
j.B. Unruh, and j.L. Cisar, IFAS Publication ENH-04.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH005.
St. Augustinegrass for Florida Lawns, L.E. Trenholm, j.L.
Cisar, and j. B. Unruh, IFAS Publication ENH-5.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LHOI0.
Landscape Plant Selector, IFAS software publication at
http://ifasboo ks. ufl. ed U.
ENVIRONMENTAL STRESSES
Environmental Stresses and Your Florida Lawn,
L.E. Trenholm, IFAS Publication ENH-153.
http:// edis. ifas. u fl. ed u/EPO 70.
Growing Turfgrass in the Shade, L.E. Trenholm,
IFAS Publication ENH-151.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP072.
Minimizing Traffic Damage to Your Florida Lawn,
L.E. Trenholm, IFAS Publication ENH-152.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP07I.
Low Temperature Damage to Turf, L.E. Trenholm, IFAS
Publication ENH-80. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH067.
Managing Your Florida Lawn under Drought Conditions,
H.C. Jones, C.S. Lippi, and L.E. Trenholm, IFAS
Publication ENH-157. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP078.
Tips for Maintaining Landscapes During Drought,
Rj. Black, IFAS Publication ENH 158.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP091.
IRRIGATION REFERENCES
STANDARDS
Landscape Irrigation and Florida-Friendly Design
Standards, December 2006, Florida Department of
Environmental Protection. http://www.dep.state.fl.us/
wa ter/wa terpo licy / docs/Landscape I rri ga tio n Florida
FriendlyDesign. pdf.
Deportment 01 Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008 .
Florida Building Code - Plumbing, Appendix F.
International Code Council 900 Montclair Rd.
Birmingham AL, 35213-1206 (205) 599-9871
http://www. florida buildin g. orgIB CI SO ldlbc/ defa u I t. asp
or http://www.iccsafe.org.
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o
....,
Standards and Specifications for TUlJ and Landscape
Irrigation Systems, Fifth Edition. December 2005.
Florida Irrigation Society, (800) 441-5341, Address:
9340 56th Street N. Suite 105, Temple Terrace, FL
33617. http://www.fisstate.orglstandardsrevision3.pdf.
ASABE Standards -2007. Standards, engineering practices,
and data developed and adopted by the American
Society of Agricultural and Biological Engineers. 2007.
American Society of Agricultural and Biological
Engineers, 2950 Niles Rd., St. Joseph, MO 49085.
Telephone (269) 429-0300. http://www.asabe.org
/standards/searchpur. h tml.
National Engineering Handbook Series 210-VI. November
1997. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Natural
Resources Conservation Service, Washington D.C.,
20013. http://www.ftw.nrcs.usda.gov/tech ref.html
or http://directives.sc.egov.usda.gov/.
GUIDANCE
Turf and Landscape Irrigation Best Management
Practices, April 2005. The Irrigation Association.
(703) 536-7080,6540 Arlington Blvd., Falls
Church, VA 22042-6638. http://www.irrigation.org.
Florida Automated Weather Network
http://fawn.ifas.ufl.edu.
Irrigation of Lawns and Gardens, D.Z. Haman, G.A. Clark,
and A.G. Smajstrla, IFAS Circular 825, May 1989.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/WI003.
Microirrigation in the Landscape, G.A. Clark, IFAS Fact
Sheet AE-254. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE076.
Field Evaluation of Microirrigation Water Application
Uniformity, A.G. Smajstrla, B.]. Boman, D.Z. Haman,
D.]. Pitts, and ES. Zazueta, IFAS Publication AE094,
1997. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE094.
Efficiencies of Florida Agricultural Irrigation Systems,
A.G. Smajstrla, B.]. Boman, G.A. Clark, D.Z. Haman,
D.s. Harrison, ET. Izuno, D.]. Pitts, and F.S. Zazueta,
1991. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AEllO.
Flushing Procedures for Microirrigation Systems,
A.G. Smajstrla and B.]. Boman, IFAS Bulletin 333.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/WIOI3.
II FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection 01 Water Resources by the Green Industries
Field Guide to Soil Moisture Sensor Use in Florida, 2008,
St. Johns River Water Management District
http://www.sjrwmd.com/floridawa terstar/pdfs/
SMS field guide.pdf.
I rrigating Landscape Plants During Establishment,
E.E Gilman, IFAS Publication ENH 857.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EPI13.
Lawn Sprinkler Selection and Layout for Uniform Water
Application, A.G. Smajstrla, G.A. Clark, and
ES. Zazueta, IFAS Bulletin 230, 1997.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE084.
Basic Irrigation Scheduling in Florida, A.G. Smajstrla,
B.]. Boman, G.A. Clark, D.Z. Haman, F.T. Izuno,
and ES. Zazueta, IFAS Bulletin 249, 1988.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AEll1.
Potential Impacts of Improper Irrigation System Design,
A.G. Smajstrla, ES. Zazueta, and D.Z. Haman, IFAS
Publication SS-AGE-807, November 1988.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE02 7.
How To Calibrate Your Sprinkler System, L.E. Trenholm,
].B. Unruh, and].L. Cisar, IFAS Publication ENH 61,
January 2001. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH026.
Watering Your Florida Lawn, L.E. Trenholm, J .B. Unruh,
and].L. Cisar, IFAS Publication ENH 9,
February 2001. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH025.
Florida Irrigation Guide. Gainesville, Florida:
U.s. Department of Agriculture, Natural
Resources and Conservation Service, 2006.
http://www.fl.nrcs. usda. gov/.
TlIIJ Irrigation for the Home, ES. Zazueta, A. Brockway,
L. Landrum, and B. McCarty, IFAS Circular 829,
April 1995. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AEI44.
Irrigation System Controllers, ES. Zazueta, A.G. SmajstrIa,
and G.A. Clark, IFAS Publication AGE-32, Bulletin
294, July 1994. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE077.
MULCHING, MOWING, AND
PRUNING REFERENCES
Mulches for the Landscape, R.]. Black, E.E Gilman, G.W
Knox, and K.c. Ruppert, IFAS Publication ENH 103.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG251.
Mowing Your Florida Lawn, L.E. Trenholm, ].B. Unruh,
and].L. Cisar, IFAS Fact Sheet ENHI0, January 2001.
http:// edis. ifas. ufl. ed u/LH 0 28.
Pnllling Landscape Trees and Shrubs, E.E Gilman
and R.]. Black, IFAS Circular 853.
http:// edis. ifas. u fl. ed u/M G 08 7.
Pruning Shade Trees in the Landscape at
http://hort. ifas. ufl. ed u/woody/prunin gI.
Mangrove Trimming Guidelines for Homeowners.
Tallahassee, Florida: Florida Department
of Environmental Protection.
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/wa ter/wetlands/mangroves/.
FERTILIZATION REFERENCES
Fertilization and Irrigation Needs for Florida Lawns and
Landscapes, L.E. Trenholm, E.E Gilman, G.W. Knox,
and Rj. Black, IFAS Publication ENH 860 2002.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EPIlO.
.
~
Fertilization Recommendations for Landscape Plants, G.W
Knox, T . Broschat, and Rj. Black, IFAS Publication
ENH 858 2002. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP114.
General Recommendations for Fertilization of Twfgrasses on
Florida Soils, j.B. Sartain, IFAS Publication SL-21, 2007.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LHOI4.
The Florida Fertilizer Label, ] .B. Sartain and WR Cox, 2002.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SSI70.
Seashore Paspalum for Florida Lawns, IFAS Publication
CIR 1244, Trenholm and Unruh, 2002.
http://edis.Has.ufl.edu/EP059.
Fertilization of Field-grown and Landscape Palms in
Florida, 2005, IFAS Publication ENH 1009.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP261.
[
Nutrient Deficiencies of Landscape and Field-grown Palms
in Florida, 2005, IFAS Publication ENH 1018.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP273.
How to Calibrate Your Fertilizer Spreader, McCarty and
Sartain, 2003, IFAS Publication ENH 62,
http:// edis. ifas. ufl. ed u/LHO 24.
Selected Fertilizers Used in Turfgrass Fertilization,
j. Sartain, IFAS Circular CIR-1262, 200l.
http://edis. ifas. ufl.edu/SS318.
r
,
Soil Testing and Interpretation for Florida Turfgrasses,
j.B. Sartain, IFAS Publication SL-181, 200l.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS317.
{
Standardized Fertilization Recommendations for
Environmental Horticulture Crops, G. Kidder, E.A.
Hanlon, TH. Yeager, and G.L. Miller, IFAS Publication
SLl41, 1998. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CN011.
Technical Memorandum-Estimation of Nitrogen Loading
from Residential Irrigation, April 2008, Tampa Bay
Estuary program. http://www.tbeptech.orglfertilizer/
FertilizerHomePage. html.
Evaluation of Current Stonnwater Design Criteria
within the State of Florida (Harper and Baker,
2007, FDEP Contract SOI08).
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/wa ter/non poin t/ docs/
nonpoint/SW TreatmentReportFinal 7 I 907. pdf.
Weather Terminology:
http://severe.worldweather.orglrain/ and
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sew/MediaGuide/Terms
Outlooks Watches Warnings.pdf.
PESTICIDE REFERENCES
Many documents are available on the Florida Department
of Environmental Protection's Nonpoint Source
Management Publications web page at
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/water/nonpoint/pubs.htm .
FDACS Bureau of Entomology and Pest Control at
(850) 921-4177 or at http://www.flaes.orglaes-ent/.
FDACS Bureau of Compliance Monitoring at
(850) 488-3314 or at http://www.flaes.orgl
com p limoni torin glindex. h tml.
Pesticide and Chemical Reportable Quantities:
http://www.floridadisaster.orglcps/SERC/htcl.htm .
Operation Cleansweep
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/was tel ca tegories/
cleansweep- pes ticides/.
Best Management Practices for Agrichemical Handling and
Farm Equipment Maintenance, Florida Department of
Agriculture and Consumer Services and Florida
Department of Environmental Protection, 1998.
http://www.floridaagwaterpolicy.com/PD FIB mps/
Bmp AgrichemicalEquipmentl998. pdf.
Agrichemical Handling Facility, Code 309. 2008. US
Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources
Conservation Service, PO. Box 141510, Gainesville,
FL 32605. Telephone (352) 338-9555.
http://efotg.nrcs.usda.gov/references/publicJFU
fl309 March 2008.pdf.
Broadcast Boom Sprayer Calibration, TW Dean,
IFAS Pesticide Information Sheet PI-24.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PIOI6.
Broadcast Boom Sprayer Nozzle Uniformity Check,
TW Dean, IFAS Pesticide Information Sheet PI-23.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PIOI5.
Designing Facilities for Pesticide and Fertilizer
Containment. MWPS-37. Revised 1995. Midwest Plan
Service, 122 Davidson Hall, Iowa State University,
Ames, IA 50011-3080. Telephone (515) 294-4337.
http://www.mwps.orgl.
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
.~
Diseases of Landscape Woody Ornamentals, G. W Simone,
PP/PPP 57, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PP108.
Q:J
o Key for Identification of Landscape Turfgrass Diseases,
t M.L. Elliott and G.W Simone.
...., http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH064.
In-depth profiles of insects, nematodes, arachnids and
other organisms that are of interest. Featured Creatures
at http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu.
Information on ornamental pests:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC Ornamental Pests.
Integrated Pest Management in the Commercial
Ornamental Nursery, Mizell and Short, 2006, IFAS
Publication ENY-336, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG144.
Insect Management on Landscape Plants, E.A. Buss
and D.E. Short, IFAS Publication ENY-338.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu//pdffiles/IG/IGOI300.pdf.
Commercial Applications of Insecticides and Miticides in the
Green Industry, E.A. Buss, 2006, IFAS Publication
ENY-337, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG145.
Insect Pest Management on Turfgrass, Buss and
Turner 2004, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG001.
Nematode Management in Residential Lawns,
WT. Crow, 2007, IFAS Publication ENY-006,
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/NG039.
Nematode Management for Perennial Landscape Plants,
WT. Crow, 2007, IFAS Publication ENY-051,
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN469.
Pesticide Container Rinsing, T.W Dean and O.N. Nesheim.
http://edis.Has.ufl.edu/PI003.
Tillfgrass Disease Management, M.L. Elliott and
G.W Simone. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH040.
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
APPENDIX A: IMPORTANT TELEPHONE NUMBERS
REPORT THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION
r.
. Name, address, and telephone number of person reporting.
. Name, address, and telephone number of person responsible for the discharge or release, if known.
. Date and time of the discharge or release.
. Type or name of the substance discharged or released.
. Estimated amount of the discharge or release.
. Location or address of the discharge or release.
· Source and cause of the discharge or release.
. Size and characteristics of the area affected by the discharge or release.
. Containment and cleanup actions taken to date.
. Other persons or agencies contacted.
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EMERGENCY REPORTING TELEPHONE NUMBERS
For Ambulance, Fire, or Police
Dial 911
State Warning Point
24 hours Toll-Free · 1 (800) 320-0519
Department of Community Affairs, Division of Emergency Management
(850) 413-9911
L
National Response Center
24 hours Toll-Free · 1 (800) 424-8802
I
I[
(federal law requires that anyone who releases into the environment a reportable quantity of a hazardous substance [includ-
ing oil when water is or may be affected], or a material identified as a marine pollutant, must immediately notify the NRC).
FDEP Emergency Response
Jacksonville
(904) 807-3246
Orlando
(407) 893-3337
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Ft. Lauderdale
(954) 958-5575
Ft. Myers
(239) 332-6975
Tampa
(813) 744-6462
Panama City
(850) 872-7650
Pensacola
(850) 595-8300
Tallahassee
(850) 245-2010
,
HELP LINE TELEPHONE NUMBERS
{
(For chemical hazard information)
CHEMTREC HOTLINE (Emergency only)
24 hours Toll-Free · 1 (800) 424-9300
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Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
NON-EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS
CQ
:::>
...,
State Emergency Response Commission
(NOT a 24-hour number) 1 (800) 635-7179
(This telephone number is for follow-up reporting under state
spill reporting requirements. In an emergency, call the State
Warning Point [see Emergency Reporting Telephone Numbers
on the preceding page]. If federal reporting is required, also
call the National Response Center [see Emergency Reporting
Telephone Numbers on the preceding page.)
Florida Friendly Landscapes Program
University of Florida (352) 392-1831 x330
Florida Department of Agriculture
and Consumer Services
Bureau of Entomology
and Pest Control
(850) 921-4177
Bureau of Pesticides
(850) 487-0532
Bureau of Compliance Monitoring
(850) 488-8731
Florida Department of Environmental Protection
Stormwater/Nonpoint Source
Management Section (Tallahassee) (850) 245-7508
Hazardous Waste
Management Section
(850) 245-8707
Mangrove Trimming Section
(850) 245-8482
Florida Department of
Environmental Protection District Offices
Northwest (Pensacola) (850) 595-8300
Northeast Oacksonville)
Central (Orlando)
Southeast (West Palm Beach)
Southwest (Tampa)
South (Ft. Myers)
Water Management Districts
Local
Northwest Florida
(Tallahassee) (850) 539-5999
Suwannee River
(Live Oak)
(904) 807-3300
(407) 894-7555
(561) 681-6600
(813) 632-7600
(239) 332-6975
Toll-free
(386) 362-1001 1-800-226-1066
St. Johns River
(Palatka)
(386) 329-4500 1-800-451-7106
Southwest Florida
(Brooksville) (352) 796-7211 1-800-423-1476
South Florida
(West Palm Beach) (561) 686-8800 1-800-432-2045
Sunshine State One Call (locator service)
811 or 800-432-4770 www.callsunshine.com
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
APPENDIX B: FLORIDA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE TELEPHONE NUMBERS
County City Telephone
Alachua Gainesville (352) 955-2402
Baker Macclenny (904) 259-3520
,
Bay Panama City (850) 784-6105
Bradford Starke (904) 966-6224
Brevard Cocoa (321) 633-1702
Broward Davie (954) 370-3725
Calhoun Blountstown (850) 674-8323
Charlotte Punta Gorda (941) 764-4340
Citrus Inverness (352) 527-5700
Clay Green Cove Springs (904) 284-6355
Collier Naples (239) 353-4244
Columbia Lake City (386) 752-5384
Dade Homestead (305) 248-3311
Desoto Arcadia (863) 993-4846
Dixie Cross City (352) 498-1237
Duval Jacksonville (904) 387-8850
Escambia Pensacola (850) 475-5230
Flagler Bunnell (386) 437-7464
Franklin Apalachicola (850) 653-9447
Gadsden Quincy (850) 875-7255
Gilchrist Trenton (352) 463-3174
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Glades Moore Haven (863) 946-0244
Gulf Wewahitchka (850) 639-3200
Hamilton Jasper (386) 792-1276
Hardee Wauchula (863) 773-2164
[ Hendry LaBelle (863) 674-4092
Hernando Brooksville (352) 754-4433
Highlands Sebring (863) 386-6540
r Hillsborough Seffner (813) 744-5519
.
Holmes Bonifay (850) 547-1108
Indian River Vero Beach (772) 770-5030
Jackson Marianna (850) 482-9620
Jefferson Monticello (850) 342-0187
Lafayette Mayo (386) 294-1279
Lake Tavares (352) 343-4101
Lee Ft. Myers (239) 533-4327
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
~
CQ leon Tallahassee (850) 606-5200
0 levy Bronson (352) 486-5131
...., Liberty Bristol (850) 643-2229
Madison Madison (850) 973-4138
Manatee Palmetto (941) 722-4524
Marion Ocala (352) 671-8400
j
Martin Stuart (772) 288-5654 l
Monroe Key West (305) 292-4501
Nassau Callahan (904) 879-1019
Yulee (904) 548-1116
Okaloosa Crestview (850) 689-5850
(alt- phone) (850) 729-1400 x5850
Okeechobee Okeechobee (863) 763-6469
Orange Orlando (407) 254-9200
Osceola Kissimmee (321) 697-3000
Palm Beach West Palm Beach (561) 233-1700
Pasco Dade City (352) 521-4288
New Port Richey (727) 847-8177
Pinellas largo (727) 582-2100
Polk Bartow (863) 519-8677
Putnam East Palatka (386) 329-0318
St. Johns St. Augustine (904) 209-0430
St. Lucie Fort Pierce (772) 462-1660
Port St. Lucie (772) 337-5684
Santa Rosa Milton (850) 623-3868
Sarasota Sarasota (941) 861-5000
Seminole Sanford (407) 665-0311
Sumter Bushnell (352) 793-2728
Suwannee Live Oak (386) 362-2771
Taylor Perry (850) 838-3508
Union lake Butler (386) 496-2321
Volusia Deland (386) 822-5778
Daytona Beach (386) 257-6012
New Smyrna Beach (386) 423-3368
Wakulla Crawfordville (850) 926-3931
Walton DeFuniak Springs (850) 892-8172
Washington Chipley (850) 638-6180
flORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
APPENDIX C: RULE 5E-1.003(2) LABELING REQUIREMENTS
FOR URBAN TURF FERTILIZERS
Effective Dec. 31, 2007
(2) FERTILIZER LABEL REQUIREMENTS FOR URBAN
TURF, SPORTS TURF OR LAWNS.
(a) Definitions
1. "Urban Turf' or "Lawns" means non agricul-
turalland planted in closely mowed, managed
grasses except golf courses, parks and athletic
fields.
not exceed an application rate of 1.0 lb of
P205/1,000 ft2 and that subsequent applications
shall be made with products meeting the defini-
tion of Low or No Phosphate fertilizers. The
term "Starter Fertilizer" shall be part of the
brand name.
~
2. "Sports Turf' means non agricultural land
planted exclusively for golf courses, parks and
athletic fields.
4. Fertilizers labeled as urban turf, sports turf,
or lawn fertilizer shall have directions for use for
nitrogen that:
3. "No Phosphate Fertilizer" means fertilizer
products with phosphate levels below 0.5%
intended for established urban turf or lawns.
a. Are consistent with the recommenda-
tions in the following table:
Fertilization Guidelines for Established Turfgrass lawns
in Three Regions of Florida
4. "Low Phosphate Fertilizer" means fertilizer
products intended for new or established urban
turf or lawns, with phosphate levels equal to or
above 0.5% or as provided in paragraph (2)(b).
Nitrogen recommendations
(Ibs N / 1000 ft2 / year).
Species North Central South
Bahia grass 2-3 2-4 2-4
Bermuda grass 3-5 4-6 5-7
Centipede grass 1-2 2-3 2-3
St. Augustine grass 2-4 2-5 4-6
Zoysiagrass 3-5 3-6 4-6
5. "Starter Fertilizer" means a fertilizer formulat-
ed for a one-time application at planting or near
that time to encourage root growth and enhance
the initial establishment.
6. "Established Urban Turf' means urban turf
older than 12 months.
North Florida is north of Ocala. Central Florida is defined os south 01
Ocala to 0 line extending from Vero Beach to Tampa. South Florida
includes the remaining southern portion 01 the state.
7. "New Urban Turf' means urban turf estab-
lished less than 12 months.
1. No phosphate fertilizers shall not contain more
than 0.5% of available phosphate expressed as
P205' The "grade" shall indicate a zero guarantee.
b. Nitrogen shall not be applied at an
application rate greater than 0.7 lbs of
readily available nitrogen per 1000 ft2 at
anyone time based on the soluble fraction
of formulated fertilizer, with no more
that 1 lb total N per 1000 ft2 to be applied
at anyone time and not to exceed the
annual nitrogen recommendations in the
Fertilization Guidelines for Established
Turfgrass Lawns in Three Regions of
Florida, set forth herein. Use directions
for nitrogen may be included that allow
higher rates if an annual tissue sample
representative of the site shows the need
for a higher application rate.
r
(b) Fertilizer products labeled for use on sports turf,
urban turf or lawns shall be no phosphate or low
phosphate and have labeling that meets the
restrictions set forth in this rule for the applica-
tion of nitrogen.
2. Fertilizers labeled as Low phosphate shall
have use directions that do not exceed an appli-
cation rate of 0.25 lbs P20yllOOOft2 per applica-
tion and not to exceed 0.50 lbs P20yll000ft2 per
year. Label use directions may be included that
allow higher rates if an annual soil sample repre-
sentative for the site shows the need for a higher
application rate.
5. The following language shall appear conspic-
uously on bags of fertilizer sold at retail: "Do
not apply near water, storm drains or drainage
ditches. Do not apply if heavy rain is expected.
Apply this product only to your lawn! garden,
and sweep any product that lands on the
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3. Fertilizers labeled as, or formulated for use as,
starter fertilizer shall have use directions that do
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
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driveway, sidewalk, or street, back onto your
lawn/garden. "
(d) Fertilizers labeled for sports turf at golf courses,
parks and athletic fields shall:
Specialty fertilizers labeled for urban turf or
lawns shall have directions for use that include:
1. Have directions for use not to exceed rates
recommended in the document titled SL191
"Recommendations for N, P, K and Mg for Golf
Course and Athletic Field Fertilization Based on
Mehlich I Extractant", dated March 2007, which
is hereby adopted and incorporated by reference
into this rule. Copies may be obtained from the
Soil and Water Science Department, Florida
Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food
and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida,
Gainesville, FL 32611 or the following website:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/SS404.
1. Application rates for phosphorous shall not
exceed 0.25 lbs. P20S/l000 ft2 per application
and not exceed 0.50 lbs. P20S/lOOO ft2 per year.
Label use directions may be included that allow
higher rates if an annual soil sample representa-
tive for the site shows the need for a higher
application rate.
2. Application rates for nitrogen shall not
exceed 0.7 lbs of readily available nitrogen per
1000 ft2 at anyone time based on the soluble
fraction of formulated fertilizer, with no more
that 1 lb total N per 1000 ft2 to be applied at any
one time and not to exceed the annual nitrogen
recommendations in the Fertilization Guidelines
for Established Turfgrass Lawns in Three Regions
of Florida. Use directions for nitrogen may be
included that allow higher rates if an annual tis-
sue sample representative of the site shows the
need for a higher application rate.
2. Have directions for use in accordance with the
recommendations in "BMP's for the Enhancement
of Environmental Quality on Florida Golf
Courses", published by the Florida Department
of Environmental Protection, dated January 2007.
Copies may be downloaded from http://www.dep.
state. fl. us/water/nonpoint/pubs.htm.
(e) Fertilizers other than specialty fertilizers labeled
for urban turf shall:
3. Rates shall be expressed in units of weight or
volume per unit of area coverage (where applica-
tion rates are given in volume, the label shall
provide sufficient information to calculate the
application rates by weight).
1. Have directions for use not to exceed rates
recommended in the document titled Best
Management Practices for Protection of Water
Resources in Florida, June 2002, Florida Green
Industries., which is hereby adopted and incor-
porated by reference into this rule. Copies may
be obtained from http://www.dep.state.fl.us/
water/nonpoint/docs/nonpointlBMP Book.
4. Rates shall be expressed per 1000 square feet.
5. Maximum coverage area per container or bag
shall be displayed prominently on the front of
the container or bag. (i.e. This product covers
5000 square feet; This bag feeds 4000 square
feet) .
co Existing Stock - Licensees are permitted to sell
or distribute products that do not meet the label
requirements of the rule for one and one-half
years after the effective date of the rule. Products
at the retail level on or after the effective date of
the rule are permitted to be offered for sale.
FLORIDA FRIENDLY BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES for Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
EMERGENCY REPORTING TElEPHONE NUMBERS
For Ambulance, Fire, or Police
Dial 911
State Warning Point
24 hours Toll-Free
1-800-320-0519
Department of Community Affairs,
Division of Emergency Management
(850) 413-9911
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National Response Center
24 hours Toll-Free
1-800-424-8802
(Federal law requires that anyone who releases into the environment a reportable quantity of a hazardous substance
[including oil when water is or may be affected], or a material identified as a marine pollutant, must immediately
notify the NRC).
FDEP Emergency Response
Jacksonville
Orlando
Ft. Lauderdale
Ft. Myers
Tampa
Panama City
Pensacola
Tallahassee
(904) 807-3246
(407) 893-3337
(954) 958-5575
(239) 332-6975
(813) 744-6462
(850) 872-7650
(850) 595-8300
(850) 245-2010
HElP LINE TElEPHONE NUMBERS
(for chemical hazard information)
l_ _ _.~~:REC HOTLINE (Em"gwcy only) 24 horn, Toll-Fe"
1-800-424-9300
Deportment of Environmental Protection - Revised DECEMBER 2008
~'*- ~\01ECTION
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UF FLORIDA
IFAS Extension
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Agenda Item #:
tab
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Meeting Date: &( I+-
Presented by:
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A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING™ PUBLICATION
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WHAT ARE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPES?
, ......-- --- --- -- ----- -- ..- - ------- -- - - ------ -
Florida-Friendly Landscapes protect Florida's unique natural resources by conserving water, reducing waste and pollution,
creating wildlife habitat, and preventing erosion. Any landscape can be Florida-Friendly if it is designed and cared for
according to the nine Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ principles, which encourage individual expression of landscape
beauty. In 2009, the Florida Legislature found "that the use of Florida-friendly landscaping and other water use and
pollution prevention measures to conserve or protect the state's water resources serves a compelling public interest and that
the participation of homeowners' associations and local governments is essential to the state's efforts in water conservation
and water quality protection and restoration." Florida Yards and Neighborhoods is the residential program of the Florida-
Friendly Landscaping™ Program. Make your landscape a Florida-Friendly Landscape-do your part to create a more
sustainable Florida!
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SERVICES
Florida Yards &: Neighborhoods is brought to Floridians as part of the Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Program through the
University of Florida/IFAS Extension Service and the Florida Department of Environmental Protection, in cooperation with
Florida's Water Management Districts and with the support of industry and local governments. The University of Florida!
IFAS Extension Service has offices in every county in the state and offers the public the following services at either no
charge or for a minimal fee:
· Workshops and classes
. Plant and landscape advice based on current University of Florida research
· Official yard recognition program
. Certification program for new communities and developments
. Online resources, including numerous publications, a tutorial for custom landscape design, and a plant database.
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FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPING™ PROGRAM COUNTY EXTENSION OFFICES
PHONE:
(352) 392-1831, ext. 330
WEB SITE:
~
Please visit our Web site to find
your county Extension office.
. Research and Education Centers
. County Extension Offices
This publicotion was funded in part by FDEP with a Section 319 Nonpoint Source Management Program Grant from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.
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. THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK' 2009
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Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION:
Creating Your Florida-Friendly Landscape ......................4
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# 1: RIGHT PLANT, RIGHT PLACE
Landscape Design.. .... .... .... .... ..... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..........5
Soil Know-How.... .... ..... ... .... .... .... ... ..... .... ..... ..... ...... ..... ...6
Soil Testing .... ..... .... ..... ... ..... .... .... .... ........ .... ..... ...... .... .......7
Plant Selection .... ..... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... ..... .... ...... ..... ..... ....7
Invasive Plants. .... .... .... .... ..... ... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...9
Do You Need Salt-Tolerant Plants? ..................................9
Know Your Zone! ..............................................................9
Is It Safe to Dig? ................................................................9
Plant Sorting: To Keep or Not to Keep ..........................10
Planting Trees... ..... .... .... ..... .... ........ .... ..... ..... .... ...... ..... ....10
Trees Can Help.. ..... ..... .... .... ........ ..... .... ..... .... ...... ..... .... ...11
Where Are Tree Roots? ..... .... .... ......... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ......11
Choosing a Turfgrass ......................................................12
Turfgrass Selector.. ..... .... .... ..... .... .... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...13
Choosing a Landscape Maintenance Service..................13
Qualifications to Look For..............................................14
We Want to Know about Your Success!..........................14
Landscape Planning Worksheet ......................................15
#2: WATER EFFICIENTLY
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Water Restrictions ..........................................................17
Water-Wise Advice ..........................................................17
Water Management Districts ..........................................17
Calibrating Irrigation Systems ........................................19
Microirrigation .. ..... .... ..... .... .... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..19
Soaker Hoses .... ..... .... .... ..... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... .20
Rain &: Soil Sensors ........................................................20
Establishing Plants... .... .... ..... .... .... ..... .... .... ...... ..... ..... .... .20
Establishing Trees.... ..... ..... ..... .... .... .... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... .... .21
Drought-Tolerant Lawns .. ..... .... .... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ....21
#3: FERTILIZE APPROPRIATELY
Fertilizer Components. ..... ..... ..... .... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...23
Are Fertilizers Needed? ..................................................23
Preventing Pollution . ..... .... ..... .... ..... .... ..... .... ...... ..... ..... .23
Selecting a Fertilizer .... ..... ..... .... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... .... .24
Slow- &: Controlled-Release Fertilizers ..........................25
Fertilizing Landscape Plants ..........................................25
Fertilizing the Lawn.. .... ..... .... ........ ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ....26
#4: MULCH
lO,s
The Dirt on Mulch ..........................................................29
Choosing a Mulch ..........................................................29
Guidelines for Using Mulch............................................30
How Much Mulch? ........................................................30
#5: ATTRACT WILDLIFE
Tips.. . . ... . . ... . . ... . .... . ... . ... ... . .... . ... . ... . ... . ... . .... . .... . .... . .... . ... . . ..31
Creature Comforts ... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... ...... ..... ..... ...... ..... .32
#6: MANAGE YARD PESTS RESPONSIBLY
Avoiding Pest Problems ..................................................33
Detecting Pest Problems.... .... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... .... .... .33
Treating Pest Problems... .... .... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... .... ... .34
Common Landscape Pests and their Management ........35
Plant Diseases... ..... .... .... .... ......... .... ..... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... ....3 7
#7: RECYCLE YARD WASTE
Mowing .... ...... .... ..... .... .... .... ..... .... ..... ..... ..... .... ..... ..... .... .39
Pruning........................................................................... .39
Calling the Professionals ................................................39
Basic Pruning Steps ........................................................39
Reduce Your Pruning Load ............................................40
Raking ............................................................................ 40
Composting . ..... .... ..... .... .... ..... .... .... .... .... ..... ..... .... ... .......40
What to Compost.. ..... .... ..... .... .... ..... ..... .... .... .... ..... .... .....41
#8: REDUCE STORMWATER RUNOFF
How Water Works ..........................................................43
Keep It in the Ground ....................................................43
Rain Barrels &: Cisterns ..................................................44
#9: PROTECT THE WATERFRONT
Maintaining Your Waterfront Property ..........................45
Wetlands.......................................................................... 46
Springs ... .... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... .... ..... ..... ..... .... .... .... ...46
Stormwater Ponds &: Canals ..........................................47
Water at the Neighborhood Level ..................................48
CONVERTING YOUR YARD TO
A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE ..............................49
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ............. ..... .... .... .... .... ....... ...50
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication.
Florida is a popular place to live because of its appealing
'climate, unique beauty, and great quality of life. However,
gardening here can be tough! Florida soils are typically
sandy, summers are hot, and insects are abundant. As a
gardener, you know how hard it can be to keep your
plants alive, your lawn green, and your flowers blooming.
That's where the FYN program can help. It makes creating
and maintaining a quality landscape both easier and more
Florida-Friendly through numerous helpful concepts,
tools, and techniques.
Our tips on cost-saving, efficient landscapes will help you
reduce water, fertilizer, and pesticide use. Plus, a Florida-
Friendly landscape can be designed to suit your tastes,
community, and lifestyle. Whether you're establishing a
new landscape or making changes to an existing one, this
book will guide you through the process.
In the past, many people desiring to improve the sustain-
ability of their landscapes found that archaic association
rules and deed restrictions prevented them from manag-
ing their yard in a responsible manner. In 2009, the
Florida legislature found "that the use of Florida-
Friendly landscaping and other water use and pollution
prevention measures to conserve or protect the state's
water resources serves a compelling public interest and
that the participation of homeowners' associations and
local governments is essential to the state's efforts in
water conservation and water quality protection and
restoration." Per 373.185 and other Florida Statutes:
. "A deed restriction or covenant may not prohibit or be
enforced so as to prohibit any property owner from
implementing Florida-friendly landscaping on his or her
land or create any requirement or limitation in conflict
with any provision of part II of this chapter or a water
shortage order, other order, consumptive use permit, or
rule adopted or issued pursuant to part II of this chap-
ter;" and
· "A local government ordinance may not prohibit or be
enforced so as to prohibit any property owner from
implementing Florida-Friendly landscaping on his or
her land."
A Florida-Friendly landscape is not only beautiful, it is
also environmentally friendly. It stabilizes soil, prevents
erosion, filters pollutants, and reduces harmful runoff-
all of which contribute to preserving Florida's unique nat-
ural resources. From the fertilizers you apply to the water
you use, your gardening choices can have an impact on
land, water, and wildlife. What you do in your landscape
matters.
A Florida-Friendly yard conserves water and looks attractive.
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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#1: Right Plant, Right Place
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ENJOY HEALTHIER PLANTS AND REDUCE WORK
BY USING PLANTS SUITED TO YOUR LANDSCAPE CONDITIONS
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Achieving a natural, healthy balance in your landscape
starts with putting the right plant in the right place. This
encompasses far more than simply putting sun-loving
plants in your yard's sunny spots-you also need to con-
sider things like maintenance and water needs. Matching
plants to conditions in your landscape can help them
thrive, once established, with little or no irrigation and
few or no fertilizers and pesticides.
,.
The secret to successful landscape design is thorough
planning. Remember that once you have a plan, you don't
have to do all the work at once-you can implement it
one area at a time. Read this chapter to get an idea of the
factors you should take into account when planning your
new landscape or renovating an existing one, and use the
worksheet at the end of the chapter to design a cus-
tomized landscape plan that is sure to work for you.
LANDSCAPE DESIGN
Florida-Friendly Landscape design combines art and sci-
ence to create functional, attractive, and ecologically
sound surroundings that complement a home or other
structure. The main idea when placing plants in your
landscape is not to waste time, energy, and money caring
for a plant that is not adapted to the spot where it's plant-
ed. But Florida-Friendly Landscaping ™ guidelines need
not restrict your choices of color, texture, and style.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
In a landscape, plants fulfill multiple roles. For example,
landscape designers often recommend grouping plants
into masses to unify the design of plant beds. Groups of
plants are visually pleasing, but this design technique pro-
vides environmental benefits as well. Trees planted in
groups provide more atmospheric cooling than the same
number of evenly spaced, isolated trees and are much bet-
ter protected in high winds. In addition, trees planted in
combination with appropriate shrubs and groundcovers
form effective windbreaks and wildlife habitat.
PLANT MATCHMAKING
Turf and landscape plants have different water, fertilizer,
and maintenance needs. All it takes is one misplaced
shrub to disrupt mowing and irrigation patterns. To con-
serve water and make maintenance easier, group plants in
beds according to water requirements.
COLOR IN THE LANDSCAPE
One way to design your landscape is by choosing two or
three colors that complement each other, and repeating
the color combination throughout the landscaped area.
You'll create a scene that's visually attractive, and the repe-
tition of color will draw the eye through the planting.
However you design your landscape, don't forget to take into
consideration what times of year different plants bloom.
WET VS. DRY
Many drought-tolerant plants thrive on elevated dry spots
or in windy areas, but can quickly succumb to root diseases
and pest problems if planted in areas that tend to stay wet.
Drought-tolerant plants do well in exposed areas and along
the unshaded southern or western walls of buildings, but
you should place plants adapted to wet soils in low spots,
along waterways, and in areas with poor drainage.
WIND-WISE PLANTINGS
Florida winter winds tend to blow from the north or
northwest. A solid fence or a row of evergreens situated on
the north side of a house forms a barrier against cold win-
ter winds, which can dry and damage plants. In the sum-
mer, winds typically originate in the south, so to allow
breezes to cool outdoor living spaces in the warm months,
keep tall barriers away from the southern edge of your
landscape. Since Florida is frequently in the path of hurri-
canes, choose trees that are known for their sturdiness in
high winds.
MADE IN THE SHADE
Position trees and shrubs strategically to naturally cool or
heat your home. Plant deciduous shade trees on the south,
east, and west sides of a house to cast shade in summer
and allow warming in winter.
Tree shade can reduce air conditioning costs significantly.
An air-conditioning system's outdoor compressor/condens-
er unit uses less energy when it is shaded from direct sun
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication.
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Shade your Ale unit from direct sun, but do not block the airAow.
during the day-but be careful not to block the unit's
airflow. If the warm discharge air cannot escape, the intake
air temperature rises, causing the unit to operate less
efficiently.
THE LOWDOWN ON GRASS
Healthy lawns clean and cool the air by absorbing carbon
dioxide, releasing oxygen, and collecting dust and dirt. They
filter stormwater runoff and reduce erosion, glare, and noise.
But the many benefits of grass are only realized when it's
cared for and used properly. Turfgrass thrives in sunny areas,
but most types do not grow well in dense shade. In shady
spots, plant shade-tolerant groundcovers instead of turf.
For a more thorough overview of the artistic elements of
landscape design, visit http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu
or consult a reputable landscape designer or professional
landscape architect.
SOIL KNOW-HOW
In much of Florida, "soil" and "sand" are synonymous.
Where sandy soils predominate, water and nutrients move
downward quickly. As a result, Florida soils usually dry
out rapidly and are not compatible with plants having
high water and nutritional needs. Sandy soils are also
more likely to allow pollutants to leach into groundwater
and waterways.
In certain parts of the state, the sandy soil has a hardpan
(a dense layer of largely impervious soil) under it, causing
water to stand for long periods instead of draining away.
Other exceptions to the quick-draining sandy soils situa-
tion occur in three main locations:
· In parts of Miami-Dade County drainage is slow,
because the soil has a high clay content.
· In the Keys there is really no soil at all-it is rock.
· In parts of the panhandle the soil is reddish clay.
IMPROVING SOIL
For best results growing flowers or vegetables, you may
need to amend the planting bed frequently by adding
. THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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Soil amendments keep garden soil robust and healthy.
organic matter, such as compost, composted animal
manure, or sphagnum peat moss. Organic matter retains
moisture, provides nutrients, and attracts beneficial organ-
isms like earthworms. When selecting organic matter,
choose materials that are decomposed to the point of con-
taining few or no recognizable source materials - in yard
waste, that would mean you wouldn't see any leaves or
sticks.
The easiest way to add organic matter to an empty planting
bed is to put down a layer 2-3 inches thick, then mix it into
the soil using a tiller, shovel, or digging fork. In established
planting areas, such as a rose bed, add organic matter as
mulch around plantings each spring, before the rainy season.
SOIL PH
Soil pH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity and can
have a big effect on the health of your plants-essential
plant nutrients like iron and manganese become more or
less available depending on the pH of the soil. Soil testing
will help you determine the pH of your site. In general,
coastal areas are usually alkaline (high pH), while inland
areas are usually acidic (low pH).
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Although many plants tolerate a wide pH range, they do
best when planted in the right soil. Plant reference guides
often provide pH information along with other plant
requirements. Raising soil pH is easy, but lowering it is
harder to do and is only a temporary condition.
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milk of magnesia
lemon juice
carbonated beverages
vinegar
orange juice
beer
coffee
egg yolks
freshly distilled water
milk
blood
seawater
baking soda
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household ammonia
household bleach
household lye
The pH scale measures acidity and alkalinity of substances.
Concrete, stucco, brick, mortar, plaster, and other building
materials are strongly alkaline. These materials dissolve
into surrounding soil, drastically changing the pH over
time. For this reason, azaleas (Rhododendron), flowering
dogwoods (Cornus), ixora (Ixora coccinea), and other acid-
loving plants should not be planted near the concrete
foundation of a home or along sidewalks.
~ plant alkaline-loving plants by concrete, brick, or other building materials.
COMPACTED SOIL
Many new homes are built on a raised platform of com-
pacted "fill dirt" imported during the construction
process. Such compacted soils don't absorb water readily
and restrict the healthy root growth of plants. If you have
a landscape that has compacted soil, loosen and amend
the soil with organic matter as you add planting beds.
~::~~~~ hove " >ub-l"y" of ha<dp"n, hJJ! ilL,
or shell, which limits root penetration, essentially estab-
lishing a barrier to plant roots. Where possible, examine
your soil to a depth of about 18 inches before making final
plant selections.
SOIL TESTING
Whether you're deciding what to plant or just doing
some troubleshooting, you should get your soil tested.
A soil test can tell you some of the nutrients your soil
contains or the pH of your soil. For a specific area,
like a planting bed, you can take just one sample; for
a large area (like a lawn), you should take samples
from multiple locations to get an average reading.
County Extension offices can test your soil for a small
fee or provide you with a kit to send a soil sample to
the University of Florida/IFAS Extension Soil Testing
laboratory. Detailed directions come with the kit. You'll
get the results within a few weeks, helping you make
smart plant and fertilizer choices.
UF/IFAS County Extension Offices:
http://SolutionsForYourlife.com/ map
UF /IFAS Soil Testing laboratory:
http:// soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu
PLANT SELECTION
The plants you choose determine how much maintenance
your landscape will require and also how long it will last.
There are countless varieties of plants that can work in a
Florida-Friendly Landscape. Select plants from the UF/IFAS ..-
Florida- Friendly Plant List (see http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu), or
consult your county Extension office.
Use these steps as a guide to selecting the right plants for
the right places in your Florida-Friendly yard:
· Choose low-maintenance plants suited to your site.
Once these plants are established in the right location,
most require little, if any, supplemental water, fertilizer,
or pesticides.
· Welcome wildlife. Provide flowering and fruiting plants
to bring birds and butterflies into your yard. Florida is a
stopover or second home for many migrating and win-
tering butterflies and birds, so cater to these colorful,
winged creatures.
· Plant for impact. If you do choose high-maintenance
plants, group them together for greater visual impact
and easier care.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication.
· Eliminate invasive plants. Invasive exotics can aggres-
sively out-compete native plants, contributing to habitat
loss. Learn to identify problematic plants and dispose of
them carefully. And never plant them!
· Buy quality plants. Choose the healthiest plants you
can find. Slip plants out of pots to inspect roots.
Diseased roots are brown to black and often have a sour
or rotting odor. Roots growing in a circle inside the pot
indicate a rootbound plant-a plant that has been left in
the pot too long. Purchase a different plant, if possible.
Healthy roats are white and earthy-smelling.
Unhealthy roots may have a sour odor or dark color.
· Consider size. Most plants are not full-grown when
purchased (smaller plants will often establish faster and
grow as quickly as larger plants). Make sure you know
how large a plant will grow before purchasing it, and
consider buying dwarf species for smaller spaces to
reduce pruning needs and overcrowding. Always give
plants enough room to grow to full size. Think ahead-
don't plant trees that grow large beneath power lines,
close to your house, or in other potentially hazardous
sites. If your home features solar panels, be sure any
trees you plant will not block them.
. THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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Mature plants need more room than immature plantings.
· Aim for diversity. Create a mosaic of trees, shrubs,
ground covers, native grasses, and wildflowers.
Monocultures-Iarge expanses of the same plant species-
are prone to disease and insect infestation and aren't as
sustainable as a diverse plant community.
. Keep grass useful. Plan turf areas to be functional and
design them for easy maintenance. Define planting bed
edges and shapes to make mowing easy.
· Cope with a slope. Use groundcovers on slopes where
grass is difficult to maintain.
· Don't use quick fixes. Don't be fooled by the quick-fix
appeal of fast-growing plants. Such plants require frequent
pruning and more water. Also, fast growth yields lots of
lush, green shoots, which can attract certain pests. Slow-
growing plants may take longer to fill in your landscape,
but they'll ultimately last longer and create less work.
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· Consider wind tolerance. Certain tree species are less
wind-tolerant than others, meaning they are more likely to
be damaged or blow over in a hurricane or other severe
weather. Look for sturdy trees to place in your landscape.
Check http://treesandhurricanes.ifas.ufl.edu for informa-
tion about specific species.
· Think of upkeep. Do not overlook maintenance needs
when designing your landscape. Maintenance includes
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proper watering, fertilizing, composting, pruning, mow-
ing, mulching, and pest management. The more carefully
you plan your landscape, the less you will have to worry
about maintenance. Newly installed plants need frequent
water, but it's possible to maintain an established land-
scape with minimal amounts of pesticide, fertilizers, and
supplemental water.
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For more information about choosing plants, use the plant list
that is available on the FYN Web site http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu,
contact your county Extension office, or visit http://florida
yards.org and http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu.
INVASIVE PLANTS
Below is a list of some of the most problematic invasive exotic
plants. The State of Florida prohibits their planting. If you
have any of these plants in your landscape, remove them to
prevent their further spread.
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Tropical soda apple
(So/arum viarum)
Water hyacinth
(Eichhornia crassipes)
For information about invasive plants, contact your county's
UF /IFAS Extension office or visit the Florida Yards &
Neighborhoods Web site: http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu.
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DO YOU NEED SALT-TOLERANT PLANTS?
Many Floridians live near the coast, where the air, ground-
water, and soil can be salty and capable of severely dam-
aging, deforming, or killing plants. But there are many
plants with varying degrees of salt tolerance. Choose salt-
tolerant plants if you live on or near an estuary or a salt
marsh, or within one-eighth of a mile of the ocean. Use the
UF /IFAS Florida-Friendly Plant list, available on the FYN
Web site, to help you choose salt-tolerant plants for your
landscape.
KNOW YOUR ZONE!
IS IT SAFE TO DIG?
Before you dig in your yard, it's important that you get your
underground utilities marked. Hitting utilities while digging
can cause tremendous damage, interrupting your electric,
telephone, cable television, water, sewer, and gas service-
it can even cause injury or loss of life.
All you have to do is dial 811 at least two business days
before you want to dig. Your utility companies will locate
any underground utilities in your landscape for free. If you
don't follow this procedure and underground lines are dam-
aged, you could be fined.
For more information, visit http://callsunshine.com.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication.
;.::-
Plant Sorting: To Keep or Not to Keep
If you're renovating your landscape, it's wise to keep some of
the plants you already have. In an established landscape,
retaining trees, shrubs, perennials, and other plants will save
you money-and it also preserves established wildlife habi-
tat. If you are dealing with new home construction, leaving
plants in place will help reduce erosion. The trick is know-
ing which plants to keep.
Follow these simple guidelines to sift through your botanical
choices:
· Keep healthy plants that show good form and are grow-
ing in appropriate locations. Consider just pruning
healthy, overgrown shrubs.
· Discard tightly spaced plants. Over time, tight spacing
fosters insect and disease problems and stresses plants.
Overcrowding can also cause leggy growth from plants
competing for sunlight and nutrients. It's best to get rid of
plants that are grouped too closely together.
· Retain trees with long lifespans. Some examples are live
oak (Quercus virginiana), mahogany (Sweitenia mahogany),
and saba I palm (Saba I palmetto). Remove trees that are
short-lived, like cherry laurel (Prunus caroliniana); prone
to decay, such as mature laurel oak (Quercus laurifolia); or
weak-wooded, such as pine (Pinus).
· Save clusters of trees and the plants growing beneath
them. Trees growing in groups or shady forests often
grow very tall and narrow. If the site is cleared, an isolat-
ed tree becomes vulnerable to wind damage and could
snap or fall over during a windstorm or hurricane. For
this reason, it is best to leave trees in clusters. The cluster
should include the trees along with any groundcovers or
native shrubs growing beneath them. This trio of trees,
shrubs, and groundcovers buffers wind and maintains
habitat for wildlife.
plant trees in clusters to protect from wind damage.
· Remove unsuitable plants. These include unhealthy
plants, invasive plants, and plants that require constant
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
care to survive. Plants with these ct.nics are\.ll-
ally more trouble than they're worth.
· Move plants located too close to walls. They block air
currents and prevent access for home maintenance.
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Move plants that block air currents or interfere with home maintenance.
· Relocate plantings out from under eaves. They often
prove problematic, as they may not receive adequate
rainfall or may be damaged by the force of rainwater
dropping from the roof.
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Once you know which plants you intend to keep, ensure
that roots are not damaged through construction activities
or soil compaction, which can damage or kill a plant.
Avoid driving over the roots of plants, especially trees,
with heavy vehicles; digging into the root zone area; and
mounding soil against the base of plants. To protect trees
during construction, construct barricades at the edge of
the canopy drip line. Even though this does not protect
the entire root system, it will improve your trees' odds of
survival.
,
Trees particularly sensitive to soil compaction include
sweetgum (Liquidambar), dogwood (Comus spp.), sassafras
(Sassafras spp.), tupelo (Nyssa spp.), pine (Pinus spp.) ,
white oak (Quercus alba), laurel oak (Quercus laurifolia)
and most nut trees, such as black walnut (Juglans nigra),
hickory (Carya spp.), and pecan (Carya illinoinensis).
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Planting Trees
Begin your landscape renovation by putting walkways, irri-
gation systems, or patios into place first; then plant trees.
Because trees are a more permanent addition to the land-
scape, careful site selection and proper planting techniques
are essential.
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TREES CAN HELP
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Not sure where to start with a new landscape? plant trees.
Establishing a tree canopy is a great way to begin your
Florida-Friendly yard. Trees not only provide shade and
wildlife habitat, they also help to reduce stormwater runoff.
Trees significantly increase the value of a home and lot.
According to the American Forestry Association, trees have
other significant monetary benefits. Each year, a single tree
provides $73 worth of air conditioning savings, $75 worth
of erosion control, $75 worth of wildlife shelter, and $50
worth of air pollution reduction. Compounding this annual
total of $273 for 50 years at 5 percent interest results in a
tree value of $57,151. The overall benefits far outweigh the
initial cost and maintenance of each tree.
1. Look up. Find a new planting site if there is a wire, secu-
rity light, or building nearby that could interfere with the
tree as it grows.
2. Dig a wide, shallow hole. Dig a hole that is one and
one-half to three times the width of the root ball (the
roots and soil attached to the plant when you remove it
from its pot).
, Loosen the root ball.
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3. Find the point where the topmost root emerges from the
trunk. This point is called the trunk flare, root flare, or
root crown and should be 2 inches above the soil surface.
WHERE ARE TREE ROOTS?
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4. Slide the tree into the planting hole and position
it carefully. Place the trunk flare slightly above the
surface of the landscape soil and begin to fill the hole
with the excavated soil, making sure the tree is straight
as you go. As you add the soil, slice a shovel down into
it twenty to thirty times, all around the tree. Compress
the soil to stabilize the tree.
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The trunk flare should be two inches above the soil surface.
5. Add plenty of water to the root ball and planting hole.
Make sure the root ball and surrounding soil are thor-
oughly moistened. Add more soil around the root ball if
needed.
6. Cover the backfill soil with mulch. Apply mulch to a
minimum 8-foot diameter circle around the tree, with a
gap of 12 inches between the trunk and the mulch.
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Cover the backfill soil with mulch.
7. Stake the tree, if necessary. Staking holds the root ball
firmly in the soil. Top-heavy trees might require staking,
especially if they're located in a windy location.
8. Water trees frequently so roots fully establish. Light, fre-
quent irrigation fosters the quickest establishment for
trees (see "Establishing Trees" on page xx for more infor-
mation). Following the initial few months of frequent irri-
gation, water weekly until plants are fully established.
For more information about planting trees, visit
http://gardeningsolu tions. ifas. ufl. edu.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
CHOOSING A TURFGRASS
Grass is a good choice for areas with high recreational
use, for erosion control, or for use in a swale (an open
channel with gently sloping sides that collects and slows
the flow of rainwater). When planning a grass area, care-
fully consider which type of turfgrass is best for your site
conditions and your desired maintenance level. (For
example, bermudagrass and seashore paspalum are not
usually recommended for home lawns because of their
high maintenance requirements. For more information
about them, visit http://yourfloridalawn.ifas.ufl.edu.)
Groundcovers may be more successful and practical in
low-traffic areas, heavily shaded spots (such as under
trees), or on steep slopes where grass is difficult to
maintain. Keep these factors in mind when choosing a
turfgrass:
· Drought tolerance. St. Augustinegrass will not thrive
in some sites without supplemental irrigation in dry
times. Bahiagrass will survive without supplemental
irrigation by going into drought-induced dormancy,
but may not form a lawn as dense as other grasses.
Centipedegrass and zoysiagrass need slightly less water
than St. Augustinegrass but do require supplemental
irrigation to remain green and healthy during dry
periods.
· Shade tolerance. Most turfgrasses grown in Florida are
sun-loving, but some will grow in areas with partial
shade. Dwarf St. Augustinegrass cultivars such as
'Captiva', 'Delmar', and 'Seville' are best for shaded
areas and can tolerate as few as five to six hours of sun-
light daily. 'Flora tam' has the lowest shade tolerance
and does best where it will receive seven to eight hours
of sunlight per day.
Sun-loving turf cultivars will not thrive in shady conditions.
III THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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Shade-loving shrubs are a better choice for underneath trees.
· Wear tolerance. This term describes how well a turf
species will stand up to repeated traffic, either human or
vehicular. Most zoysiagrasses have relatively high wear
tolerance.
· Salt tolerance. This is mainly a concern for lawns in
coastal areas, where salt spray from the ocean or use of
reclaimed/recycled water may expose the grass to higher
concentrations of salt. St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass-
es are the better choices for these areas, although they
may sustain injury with high levels of salinity. Bahiagrass
and centipedegrass have relatively poor salt tolerance.
· Fertility requirements. A lawn that needs more fertilizer
costs a homeowner more time, money, and effort.
Centipedegrass and bahiagrass have relatively low fertili-
ty requirements, while zoysiagrass and some cultivars of
St. Augustinegrass need more fertilizer and consequently
more water and pest control. When choosing a grass
type, consider the time and money you are willing to
spend on maintenance.
I
. Climatic conditions. Florida's climate varies greatly from
north to south. It's important to research which species
and cultivars are best suited to your region of the state
and your soil type. Consulting your county Extension
office is always a good idea.
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· Leaf texture. Leaf texture describes the width and
coarseness of the grass blades. Although often preferred,
the fine-textured leaf blades have higher maintenance
requirements.
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· Pest &: disease problems. Each species and cultivar of
turfgrass is prone to certain insect pests and fungal or
bacterial pathogens. St. Augustinegrass often suffers from
chinch bugs, while zoysiagrass is prone to hunting bill-
bugs and brown patch disease. Know which pests and
diseases your chosen grass is most prone to, and be
aware of what your control options are.
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For more information about selecting a turfgrass for your
landscape, visit http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu.
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t (except for 'Hammock')
Mowing Height (inches) 1.5-2.5
Soil Acid, sandy, or clay
leaf Texture
Drought Tolerance
Salt Tolerance
Shade Tolerance
Wear Tolerance
Nematode Tolerance
Maintenance levels
CHOOSING A LANDSCAPE
MAINTENANCE SERVICE
If you lack the time, desire, or ability to tackle your
own landscape work, you may decide to hire a profession-
allandscape maintenance company. Look for companies
whose employees have obtained a certificate of completion
in the Florida-Friendly Best Management Practices for
Protection of Water Resources by the Green Industries
(GI-BMPs), a joint program of the Florida Department
of Environmental Protection and UF/IFAS. In many areas,
this training is already mandatory, and by January 1, 2014,
all commercial fertilizer applicators must have a license
from the Department of Agriculture and Consumer
Services (FDACS) (482.1562, FS.)
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Ask potential hires if they follow these Florida-Friendly
practices:
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1.5-2.5
Fine-Medium
Good
(cultivar-dependent)
Depends on cultivar
PEST CONTROL
. Monitor for pests instead of routinely treating
· Use the least toxic methods of managing pests
· Apply pesticides only with your approval
FERTILIZER
· Apply fertilizer only if plants show signs of nutrient defi-
ciencies, and follow UF/IFAS recommendations and BMPs
· Use slow-release fertilizers
· Avoid fertilizers containing weed killer or
insecticide
· Sweep fertilizer from sidewalks and driveways
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publicotion
LAWN CARE
· Mow turf areas only as needed, according to seasonal growth
· Mow no more than one-third the height of the grass blades
per mowing, using a reel, rotary, or mulching mower
· Mow turf to University of Florida-recommended height
for your species and cultivar (see chart on page 13)
· Maintain sharp mower blades at all times
· Leave grass clippings on the lawn and use yard waste as
mulch or compost
IRRIGATION
By law, automatic irrigation systems must have a function-
ing rain sensor or other device to bypass irrigation if
adequate moisture is present. Licensed contractors are
required by law to install, repair, or replace these control
devices if they are not installed and working properly
before doing any other work on an irrigation system.
· Inspect and test rain shut-off devices and other compo-
nents and zones in the irrigation system regularly
· Make regular minor adjustments and repairs to irrigation
systems such as head cleaning and replacement, filter
cleaning, small leak repair, and minor timer adjustments
YARD WASTE
· Don't sweep or blow yard waste into storm drains
· Replenish all mulched areas regularly to maintain 2- to
3-inch layer using pine bark, pine needles, melaleuca,
eucalyptus, or other Florida-Friendly materials
For more information on selecting a landscape mainte-
nance service, please visit http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu.
QUALIFICATIONS TO LOOK FOR
Landscape maintenance professionals can take many kinds
of trainings and display many different certifications-but
there are only a few that UF/IFAS recommends. Ask if any
of a landscape maintenance company's employees have
any of the following licenses or certifications:
· Florida-Friendly Best Management Practices
(Florida Department of Environmental Protection
and UF/IFAS)
THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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· International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) certification
· Florida Irrigation Society (FIS) or Irrigation Association
(IA) certification
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· Florida Certified Horticulture Professional (FCHP) cer-
tification fron the Florida Nursery, Growers, and
Landscape Association
· Limited Commercial Landscape Maintenance
Certification (Florida Department of Agriculture and
Consumer Services)
. Pesticide Applicator License (FDACS)
WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR SUCCESS!
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Photograph the evolution of your Florida-Friendly yard, and
share pictures with the horticulture agent or FYN program
coordinator at your county's UF/IFAS Extension office. let us
learn from your experience and share your knowledge with
others. "Before" and "after" shots with captions are particu-
larly useful to illustrate your success. In some counties, FYN
offers official yard recognition for landscapes that meet the
Florida-Friendly criteria. Contact your county Extension office
for more information (http://SolutionsForYourlife.com/mapl.
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LANDSCAPE PLANNING WORKSHEET
This worksheet can be used for both new and established landscapes. By following these steps, you're almost guaranteed a
thriving, low-maintenance landscape suitable to your climate and needs.
1. Decide why you want to landscape.
Most homeowners think of landscaping as a way to add beauty to their home or to improve the resale value. Other reasons
to landscape are more specific, such as enhancing or screening a view, creating a microclimate, or attracting wildlife to a
yard. You may need a play area for your children, or perhaps you'd like to entertain family and friends outdoors. Your
passion may be raising vegetables or simply savoring a lovely view.
How will you use your landscape? (A typical landscape has multiple uses.)
2. Obtain a soil analysis.
Soil plays a big part in any landscape project, influencing what plants will thrive in your yard. Determine the soil's texture
(sandy to clay), and have it tested to determine the pH-the level of acidity or alkalinity. This information will help you
decide which plants are best suited to the conditions of your yard. Read more about soil starting on page 6.
Type of soil in your landscape:
pH:
Any exceptions? (For example, maybe the place where you want to put a planting bed has more acidic soil than other
areas in the landscape.)
3. Inventory your landscape.
Walk around your property, noting conditions that make your yard unique. Does your site call for plants that are tolerant
of cold, wind, full sun, shade, drought, occasional flooding, or salt spray? Also take note of the locations of more perma-
nent features, including utilities, hardscapes like the driveway, and water sources such as hoses.
What kinds of conditions does your landscape have?
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication
3. Draw a site analysis.
Don't be nervous-you don't have to be an artist to tackle this step! Round up the tools you'll need: a pencil, ruler, and
graph paper. (Computer software programs that can help you with landscape planning are also commercially available.)
Don't worry too much about getting the scale just right. If you have the survey completed for your home purchase, photo-
copy it-it'll be really helpful at this stage.
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On the graph paper or template, create your diagram using the information you gathered in steps 2 and 3. Draw your
house and pencil in existing trees, shrubs, and other plants you want to keep. If you have an existing irrigation system, be
sure to note its location and coverage. See the below sample site analysis for guidance.
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TO REMAIN
POCR ORAINAGI
WET SOIL.S
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5. Draw an activity map.
On another piece of graph paper, sketch your house again and where various activities will take place (refer to your
answers for step 1). Make sure to consider views: Is there a spot you can see from indoors that you want to enhance with
plants that attract birds or butterflies? Is there scenery you would like to hide? See the below sample activity diagram for
guidance.
VEGETABLE
GARDEN
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HABITAT
AREA
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Sample Activity Diagram
6. Create a landscape plan.
Your landscape plan will be guided by the site analysis and activity map discussed in steps 4 and 5. Based on these other
two diagrams, determine the types of plants you want in different locations. Don't worry about choosing specific plants
yet-just draw in where you want trees, shrubs, groundcovers, flowering plants, and turf.
Now that you have a plan, you can choose plants suited for the conditions in your landscape, using the Florida-Friendly
Plant List, which can be found online at http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu.
THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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REDUCE WATER BillS, PEST PROBLEMS,
AND MAINTENANCE NEEDS
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We all know water is a limited resource and should be
used wisely, but we often overwater our landscapes unin-
tentionally. Overwatering does more than deplete the
water supply; it also makes plants more prone to disease
and pests. By choosing and operating a watering system
correctly, you can reduce water bills, decrease plant prob-
lems, and lower maintenance requirements. For example,
the more you water your lawn, the faster it grows and the
more it needs to be mowed. It's also more likely to develop
fungal problems that require treatment with pesticides.
WATER MANAGEMENT DISTRICTS
Figure out what water management district you live in,
and follow the water restrictions for your area.
Northwest Florida Water Management District:
http://nwfwmd.stateJl.us
(850) 539-5999
Overwatering can also cause water pollution via a process
called leaching. leaching happens when more fertilizer is
applied to a landscape than the plants can absorb, or when
heavy rains and overwatering cause nutrients to travel
quickly through Florida's sandy soils, past plant roots, and
into the aquifer. Eventually these nutrients can reach near-
by water bodies, disrupting natural systems.
St. Johns River Water Management District:
http://f1oridaswater.com
(386) 329-4500 or (800) 232-0904
Southwest Florida Water Management District:
http://swfwmd.state.f1.us
(352) 796-7211 or (800) 423-1476
WATER RESTRICTIONS
Florida's five water management districts (WMDs) are
state agencies that manage and protect our water
resources on a regional basis. The water restrictions
issued by your WMD or local government-in many
areas, they're in effect year-round-should be followed
exactly, as they exist to ensure that there's enough water
for everyone.
South Florida Water Management District:
http://savewaterfl. com
(561) 686-8800 or (800) 432-2045
Suwannee River Water Management District:
http://www.srwmd.stateJl.us
(386) 362-1001 or (800) 226-1066
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Even if it is your assigned day to irrigate, that doesn't
mean you should irrigate. Scheduled watering can waste
money and water. Don't let the calendar tell you when to
water-look to your plants for telltale signs of thirst and
turn on your irrigation system manually instead of allow-
ing the automatic controller to run on a set schedule. For
information about setting your irrigation controller, visit
http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu.
Restrictions usually limit watering with a sprinkler or
irrigation system to certain times on certain days of the
week. These times and days may be different depending
on your house number, neighborhood, or side of the
street. Water restrictions in your area may also be called
"irrigation schedules." Water restrictions apply to
everyone and every water source in a WMD. (Water
use requirements may be different with reclaimed/
recycled water.)
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Florida is divided into five water management districts.
WATER-WISE ADVICE
1. Choose the right plant for the right place
All plants must get the right amount of sun, water, and
nutrients to thrive-even natives.
· Place plants in the landscape where site conditions
match their needs.
· Group plants with similar water needs together.
· Select plants suited to your area.
2. Water thoughtfully
A drop here and a drop there can add up to a lot of water.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication
· Always follow any water restrictions in your area.
· Water early in the morning.
· Irrigate plants and grass only when they start to
wilt, as allowed by water restrictions.
3. Handwater when possible
Handwatering is usually allowed during water
restrictions, because it uses less water than an
automatic irrigation system.
· Use a watering can, pail, or hose with an automatic
shutoff nozzle.
· Handwater potted plants, shrubs, trees, vegetables,
and flower beds.
· Check if your water management district limits
handwatering.
Handwater whenever possible.
4. Perform regular irrigation system maintenance
An irrigation system is only as efficient as it's main-
tained to be.
Perform regular irrigation system maintenance.
THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
· Check for and repair leaks.
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· Unclog and replace broken heads.
· Point heads at plants, not driveways and sidewalks.
Prune plants that interfere with irrigation systems.
5. Calibrate irrigation system
Even an efficient irrigation system can waste water if it's
left on for too long. The ideal amount of water to apply
to a lawn is 1/2 - 3/4 inch. See page 19 for information
on how to calibrate your system.
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A rain barrel can save excess rainwater water for dry times.
6. Make a rain barrel
Rain barrels capture rainwater that flows off your roof.
They're easy and inexpensive to make. Instead of water-
ing your plants with water you're paying for, you're
using free water!
7. Use microirrigation
Drip or micro-spray irrigation systems apply water
directly to the roots of plants, where it's needed, and
lose minimal water to evaporation or wind drift.
8. Mulch plants
Mulch helps keep moisture in the soil around your
plants. Choose from many different kinds of mulch and
apply two to three inches around trees, shrubs, flowers,
and vegetables.
9. Mow correctly
How you mow your lawn can have a big impact on how
much water it needs. Raise your mowing deck to pro-
mote a healthy root system, which will make your grass
more drought tolerant.
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10. Be a weather watcher
Rain is irrigation, too. Use it to your advantage-it's
free!
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Don't~{t}o,tr landscape if it's rained in the past
twenty-four'h6urs or if rain is forecast in the next
twenty-four hours.
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. Purchase a rain gauge to track how much rain your
plants are getting.
. Install a rain shut-off device or soil moisture sensor
to override your irrigation system when it's raining.
CALIBRATING IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
Follow these steps to determine how much water your
irrigation system is applying:
t
. Set out five to ten flat-bottomed, straight-sided cans
(all of equal size). Containers that are three to six
inches in diameter, such as cat food or tuna cans,
work best for this.
. If you have an in-ground system, place the containers
in one zone at a time, scattering the cans randomly
throughout the zone. You'll need to repeat this proce-
dure in each zone.
. If you use a hose-end sprinkler to water your turf,
place the containers in a straight line from the sprin-
kler to the edge of the watering pattern. Space the
containers evenly.
. If you have a drip irrigation system, place the cans
under emitters.
. Turn on sprinklers for fifteen minutes.
. Use a ruler to measure the depth of water in each con-
tainer. The more precise your measurement, the better
your calibration will be. Measurement to the nearest
l/S inch should be adequate.
. Find the average depth of water collected in the con-
tainers by adding up the depths and dividing by the
number of containers.
~
. To determine the irrigation rate in inches per hour,
multiply the average depth of water times four (since
you ran the water for fifteen minutes).
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· Check your system yearly to make sure it's working
properly.
MICROIRRIGATION
Microirrigation systems deliver small volumes of water
directly to the root zone through low-flow emitters, such
as micro-spray jets, bubblers, or drip tubes.
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Drip tubing.
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Micro-spray.
Microirrigation can be a great way to water your plants
more efficiently. It can be installed under shrubs and trees,
in planting beds, and in containers, but should be avoided
in lawns.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping'. publication.
· Drip or micro-spray fittings can clog; you may need to
filter the water source. Inspect fittings regularly and
clean them when necessary. Insects, rodents, and
enthusiastic hoeing can damage drip tape or tubing.
· If you already have an irrigation system, your options
for converting to microirrigation may be limited. But
sometimes low-pressure emitters, such as bubblers, can
be adapted to existing sprinkler heads. This may
require a pressure regulator at the source to reduce
water pressure.
· Although microirrigation equipment releases small
amounts of water, overwatering is still possible if the
system is left on for too long.
SOAKER HOSES
While plants are becoming established in your yard, you
may want a temporary watering system-it's convenient
and usually worth the effort. Temporary watering systems
could be a soaker hose or just a garden hose attached to
a sprinkler.
Unlike regular garden hoses, soaker hoses seep or leak
water along their entire length, delivering it to the soil
around the plants. lay the hose on top of the soil, or bury
it slightly in the soil or mulch. landscape staple pins work
great for holding the hose in place. If you decide to use a
soaker hose or other temporary watering system, pur-
chase a battery-powered timer to hook up to the spigot.
The timer will help you make sure you don't leave the
water running longer than it needs to.
Use the soaker hose until your plants are established, and
then install or use a more permanent irrigation system if
needed. Soaker hoses aren't recommended for long-term
use because they distribute water inefficiently.
RAIN & SOIL MOISTURE SENSORS
Rain and soil moisture sensors are shut-off devices that
provide a great way to save water in your landscape. These
devices detect when a certain amount of rain has fallen or
when a certain level of moisture is present in the soil.
They will then shut off your irrigation system, making
sure it doesn't run when it's not needed.
Any person who purchases and installs an automatic land-
scape irrigation system must properly install, maintain,
and operate technology that inhibits or interrupts opera-
tion of the system during periods of sufficient moisture.
A licensed contractor who installs or performs work on an
automatic landscape irrigation system must test for the
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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Soil moisture sensor.
correct operation of each inhibiting or interrupting device
or switch on that system. If such devices or switches are
not installed in the system or are not in proper operating
condition, the contractor must install new ones or repair
the existing ones and confirm that each device or switch is
in proper operating condition before completing other
work on the system.
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Rein sensors.
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These devices, and others like "smart" control systems
such as soil moisture sensing or evapotranspiration-based
controllers, conserve water, save you money, and reduce
wear on your irrigation system. They can also help pre-
vent turf disease and other problems caused by excess
moisture. Make sure yours is working properly, or replace
or repair it if needed.
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ESTABLISHING PLANTS
Remember to water your new plants thoroughly when
establishing them. In North and Central Florida, you'll
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"n"~~d to irifiaf~i~}lon plants two to three times per
week. In South Flo'1\da, irrigate three to four times per
week. For each watering, apply 3 liters (about .8 gallons)
of water. Irrigate your new plants until they're estab-
lished, which usually takes fifteen to twenty weeks. You
may need to hand water plants to comply with local water
restrictions. Once your plants are established, water on an
as-needed basis, continuing to comply with the irrigation
schedule mandated by your water management district.
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ESTABLISHING TREES
Newly planted trees need regular irrigation to rapidly
grow the roots necessary for proper establishment. For
trees planted in spring or summer, water two to three
times per week. After the first few months, provide week-
ly irrigation until plants are fully established. Irrigations
should be 2 to 3 gallons of water per inch trunk diameter.
For example, a 2-inch tree should be watered 4 to 6 gal-
lons each irrigation. Again, handwatering may be the only
way you can follow this schedule and still comply with
water restrictions.
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DROUGHT-TOLERANT LAWNS
All turfgrasses need water to remain green, whether it
comes from rainfall or supplemental irrigation. Drought-
tolerant grasses will go into dormancy during dry periods,
growing more slowly or turning brown until conditions
are favorable for growth. When enough soil moisture
returns, these grasses can usually recover from drought-
induced dormancy, rather than dying. Bahiagrass and cen-
tipedegrass are more drought tolerant than zoysiagrass
and St. Augustinegrass, but for all grass types, proper
watering and mowing practices will encourage the grass
to develop deep roots that aid recovery from drought
stress. In other words, you can make your lawn more
drought tolerant no matter what kind of grass you have.
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When rainfall is inadequate, grasses will require supple-
mental irrigation to remain green. But you can train your
lawn to use less water by following these easy steps:
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. Mow your lawn at the highest recommended setting
for your grass type (see page 13) and don't remove
more than one-third of the grass blade at each mow-
ing. Mowing high results in deeper roots, which is
important in developing drought tolerance and mini-
mizing irrigation requirements.
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· K<<p you, mow<< b1ado> ,h.'P. L,"'o> cut! gu'iJ
blade will need more water.
Keep mower blades sharp and clean.
. Adjust irrigation frequencies by season, weather conditions,
and your region of the state. Don't irrigate until you see
signs of wilt, making sure to comply with water restrictions.
Let your lawn tell you when to water.
. Water infrequently and deeply. This will train the grass
roots to grow deep. Make sure you don't overwater-just
fill the root zone with 1/2 - 3/4 inch per application.
. Spot-treat pest problems only as needed. Chemicals can
cause damage and stress to the grass, which can increase
its need for water.
For more information on caring for your lawn, see
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
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. THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK' 2009
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#3: Fertilize Appropriately
PREVENT POLLUTION
AND MAXIMIZE PLANT HEALTH
All plants need nutrients for growth. They must obtain
these nutrients from the soil or other medium in which
they're growing. Gardeners can also provide supplemental
nutrients to plants by applying fertilizers in the form of
composted organic material, packaged fertilizer, or a spe-
cific mineral such as iron.
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Plants have varying nutrient needs, depending on the species,
the age of the plant, and its location. It's not always necessary
to fertilize your plants or lawn, but if you choose to fertilize,
it's important that you do so properly. This section will help
you correctly choose and apply the right type of fertilizer.
Too much fertilizer can weaken a plant, promote disease,
and invite pests, in addition to wasting money and harm-
ing the environment. It also means more pruning and
mowing. So consider your plants' needs carefully before
applying any fertilizer, and always follow label directions
when using fertilizer.
FERTILIZER COMPONENTS
Most fertilizers available for use in the home landscape or
garden are blends of several elements mixed together to
achieve a specific formulation of plant nutrients.
MACRONUTRIENTS
Macronutrients are nutrients required by plants in relatively
large amounts for optimum plant growth. The three main
nutrients contained in fertilizers are nitrogen (N), phospho-
rus (P), and potassium (K), represented by three numbers
that appear on the bag. A complete fertilizer will contain all
three of the major plant nutrients. Other macronutrients
include calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S).
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MICRONUTRIENTS
Micronutrients are nutrients most plants need in small quan-
tities and are sometimes referred to as trace elements or
minor elements. These nutrients-which include boron (B),
chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn),
molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn)-are often available in suf-
ficient quantities in the soil, but are also present in many fer-
tilizers. Micronutrients are also sold as individual nutrients.
ARE FERTILIZERS NEEDED?
Before you use fertilizer, you should always determine if
it's really needed. Keep in mind that certain plants are
more prone to specific kinds of nutrient deficiencies (for
example, ixora and palms tend to run low on manganese).
VISUAL SIGNS
Your plants will indicate when they lack certain nutri-
ents-you just have to know what to look for. Plant
nutrient deficiency symptoms are often symmetrical (for
lOJil
example, yellowing areas that appear to be mirror images
on a plant leaO, whereas pathogenic (e.g., fungal or bacte-
rial) problems tend to appear more randomly on the plant.
Remember that many nutrient deficiencies look similar.
Any time you're not certain of what ails a plant, take a
sample into your county Extension office for help.
SOIL TESTING
A soil test can help you understand what nutrients are
present in your soil. This is important for deciding what
nutrients, if any, you should add. Your county Extension
office can help you with this. For more information about
testing your soil, see page 7.
PREVENTING POLLUTION
Fertilizer is a powerful tool that can help plants thrive-if
used appropriately. If applied incorrectly, it can not only
harm plants, but also the environment. To prevent water pol-
lution from nutrient leaching and runoff, always follow these
steps when fertilizing your lawn or landscape.
IN GENERAL
. Follow UF/IFAS recommendations. Ideal rates, appli-
cation timings, and formulas are different for different
plants.
. Choose slow-release products. look for fertilizers
with slow-release nutrients. They should include potassium
and little or no phosphorus.
· Keep fertilizer oft hard surfaces. If fertilizer gets
spilled on a hard surface (like a driveway), sweep it up
and dispose of it. Fertilizers can wash into storm drains
and from there into a nearby water body.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication
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· If you spill fertilizer on the lawn, collect
whatever you can. It might be tempting to just water
extra fertilizer into the lawn, but the excess nutrients will
leach (seep downwards) through the soil and into the
groundwater.
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Sweep up fertilizer spills on the lawn.
· Never fertilize within 10 feet of any water body.
Designate a 1 o-foot maintenance-free zone between your
landscape and the riparian zone.
Never apply fertilizer within 10 feet of any water body.
· Don't fertilize before a heavy rain. If rain is forecast
in the next twenty-four hours, hold off on applying fertilizer.
Rain can wash fertilizer off lawns or cause it to leach into
groundwater, contributing to pollution.
· Know your water source. If you use reclaimed/recy-
cled water for irrigation, keep in mind that it can contain
SELECTING A FERTILIZER
A wide range of fertilizers is available for gardeners. You
can select from different combinations of nutrients that
come in a variety of forms. The key to selecting a fertilizer
is understanding what nutrients your plants need.
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
nutrients, including nitrogen, and adjust the amount you
fertilize accordingly.
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FOR LAWNS
· Apply fertilizer only when grass is actively
growing. Many Florida turfgrasses go dormant or slow
their growth in cooler seasons. Water it in with 1/4 inch
of water or less.
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· Use a broadcast spreader with a deflector shield.
Don't use a drop spreader, which can damage the coatings
on slow-release fertilizers, rendering them quick-release.
A deflector shield directs fertilizer away from your maintenance-
free zone.
· Avoid using "weed and feed" products.
These contain herbicides and fertilizer together.
· These products can injure some trees and shrubs. Tree
and shrub root systems can extend far beyond the
canopy drip line, intermingling with turf.
· Pesticides should be applied only to affected areas,
rather than broadcast over the entire yard as occurs with
a weed and feed product.
· The appropriate timing is often different, with preemer-
gent herbicides applied far earlier than fertilizer. This
almost ensures that one or the other is ineffective, if not
harmful.
· Apply an iron source instead of a nitrogen fertilizer.
To green the lawn without increasing growth in the summer,
use chelated iron or iron sulfate.
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INORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Inorganic fertilizers are materials that are mined or synthe-
sized from non-living materials. Many inorganic fertilizers
contain nutrients that are immediately available to plants.
Others are formulated to allow nutrients to be released
~ ~'. ....: ./~'-..
'. . over a P7rici.d.. ,']9f,p)P~: If you use an inorganic fertilizer in
your la1!,ds~.~pet~~odIe one with some or all of the nutri-
ents in slow- or controlled-release form, so that the plants
will be able to take up the fertilizer as it is gradually
released.
ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Organic fertilizers are materials that are derived from plants
and animals; one of the most common forms is manure.
Animal manure can come from chickens, cows, pigs, sheep,
horses, or rabbits and should always be composted before
use in vegetable gardens to reduce risk to food safety. (Keep
in mind that these products often contain high levels of
phosphorus, which has been shown to cause water pollu-
tion, and should be applied carefully.) Never use cat or dog
~ manure or human waste-there is a greater risk of these
sources transmitting disease. Homemade compost (typically
made of kitchen scraps and/or yard waste) is another excel-
lent source of organic matter for garden soils. It usually
contains small amounts of nitrogen and potassium, but very
little phosphorus. Both composted manure and compost
also contain micronutrients.
Most of the nutrients in composted manure and compost
are available more slowly than those in most inorganic fer-
tilizers. The quick availability of nutrients, especially nitro-
gen, in inorganic fertilizers is very important in vegetable
growing. If you're growing vegetables, you may want to
supplement any organic fertilizer you apply with some
inorganic fertilizer for quick feeding.
READING THE LABEL
When selecting a fertilizer, look at the three numbers
on the bag. They will read something like 15-0-15 or
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS
Total Nitrogen (N)...........................................................................................................35.0%
35% Urea Nitrogen*
Soluble Potash (K20).....................................................................................................5.00%
Boron (B)............................................................................................................................0.03%
Copper (Cu)....................................................................................................................... 0.05%
Iron (Fe).............................................................................................................................. 5.00%
0.10% Water Soluble Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn).............................................................................................................0.05%
Molybdenum (Mo).................................................................................................... 0.0006%
Zinc (Zn)............................................................................................................................. 0.05%
Derived from: polymer-coated Urea, Urea, Muriate of Potash. Sodium Borate,
Copper Oxide, Ferric Oxide, Ferrous Sulfate, Manganese Oxide, MolybdiC Oxide
and Zinc Oxide.
* Contains 15% slowly available Nitrogen from coated Urea.
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Always check the N-P-K ratio and quantity of slow-release nitrogen.
16-2-8. The first number represents the percentage of
nitrogen in the bag, the second refers to phosphorus, and
the third number is the amount of potassium. For exam-
ple, a 50-pound bag of 16-2-8 is 16 percent nitrogen (8
pounds total); 2 percent phosphorus (l pound total); and
8 percent potassium (4 pounds total). The remaining
weight is usually comprised of inert ingredients. Nitrogen
and phosphorus cause the most problems with regard to
water pollution.
FERTILIZING LANDSCAPE PLANTS
If you're happy with the color and appearance of your
landscape plants (shrubs, flowers, trees, etc.), you don't
need to fertilize them. Many established plants don't need
fertilizer, and many trees will thrive without it. Remember
that fertilizer applied to turf will reach the roots of plants
nearby, so if you fertilize your lawn, your plants may
already be getting all the nutrients they need.
Even when plants show signs of nutrient deficiencies,
keep in mind that fertilizer might not help-these plants
may not be suited for their location or their roots may be
damaged in some way. Consider removing high-mainte-
nance plants from your landscape and substituting lower-
maintenance choices.
PALMS & CYCADS
Palms and cycads have more complex nutritional require-
ments than other landscape plants. The ideal fertilizer for
palms and cycads has an analysis of 8-2-12-4 Mg; all of its
~., \'
Palms have special nutritional needs.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
N, K, and Mg should be in slow- or controlled-release
form. Since palms are prone to several potentially fatal
micronutrient deficiencies, this fertilizer should also con-
tain 1-2 percent iron (Fe) and manganese (Mn), plus trace
amounts of zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), and boron (B). Using
fertilizers with ratios other than the one given may cause
or intensify nutrient deficiencies. .
FERTILIZING THE LAWN
A properly maintained lawn filters stormwater runoff,
reduces air temperatures, and helps prevent pollution and
stabilize soil. Grass that receives appropriate levels of fer-
tilizer-not too little and not too much-might also
require fewer cultural or chemical controls for weeds,
insects, and diseases, since it grows more vigorously and is
strong and healthy.
On the other hand, fertilizing incorrectly can aggravate
pest problems, stimulate excessive growth, and require
frequent watering. In addition, when tol.m~ 4J
nitrogen fertilizer is used on lawns, it can leach through
the ground, past the root zones of grass, plants, and
trees, and into the aquifer, where almost all of the
freshwater used in Florida comes from. It can also be
washed off by rainfall directly into surface water or
stormwater systems.
How much fertilizer should I apply to a lawn?
No matter what kind of grass you have or where in the
state you live, you should not apply more fertilizer than
the rate listed on the label. If using a quick release prod-
uct, apply only up to 0.5 pound of nitrogen per 1,000
square feet.
How much fertilizer that translates to depends on the per-
centage of nitrogen in your fertilizer and the size of your
landscape. To calculate how much fertilizer to apply to
your lawn, use the following table.
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TABLE 1 A.
Recommended application rates for turfgrass fertilizers to Florida lawns: 30% or more slow-release nitrogen.
In the table below, match the size of your lawn to the percentage of nitrogen (N) in your fertilizer to find the amount of fertilizer you
need to apply. If you have a bahiagrass lawn, apply this amount of fertilizer about twice a year no matter where you live in the state.
For centipedegrass, apply about once a year in North Florida and once or twice a year in Central and South Florida. For St.
Augustinegrass or zoysiagrass, apply about two or three times a year in North and Central Florida and three or four times a year in
South Florida. UF /IFAS recommends soil testing for phosphorus content before any P fertilizer is applied.
6%N 10%N 12%N lS%N 16%N 23%N 27% N
1,000 ft2 16.slbs 10lbs 8.Slbs 6.Slbs 61bs 4.Slbs 41bs
1,100 ft2 18.Slbs 11 Ibs 9.Slbs 71bs 7 Ibs Sibs 41bs
1 ,200 ft2 20lbs 121bs 10.Slbs 81bs 7.slbs Sibs 4.slbs
1,300 ft2 221bs 131bs l1.S Ibs 8.Slbs 81bs s.slbs Sibs
1 ,400 ft2 23.S Ibs 141bs 12.slbs 9 Ibs 91bs 61bs sibs
1,SOO ft2 2sIbs lslbs 13.slbs 10lbs 9.slbs 6.Slbs s.slbs
2,000 ft2 33.S Ibs 20lbs 171bs 131bs 121bs 91bs 81bs
2,SOO ft2 41.5 Ibs 2SIbs 21 Ibs 16.Slbs ls.slbs 11 Ibs 9.Slbs
3,000 ft2 SO Ibs 30lbs 2S.S Ibs 19.slbs 181bs 131bs 121bs
3,SOO ft2 S81bs 3sIbs 30lbs 231bs 21.5 Ibs lS.Slbs 13.slbs
4,000 ft2 661bs 40lbs 341bs 261bs 241bs 181bs 161bs
4,SOO ft2 741bs 4SIbs 38 Ibs 29.S Ibs 27.S Ibs 20lbs 17.slbs
S,OOO ft2 821bs SO Ibs 42.S Ibs 331bs 31 Ibs 221bs 191bs
'These recommendations assume use of a properly calibrated spreader. See www.yourAoridalawn.ifas.ufl.edu for instructions on calibrating your
spreader.
THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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Measure the areas of your yard to
be fertilized in order to determine
the total square footage.
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Close the holes in your spreader.
If you have any fertilizer left over,
add it to the second half of the
application.
Follow these steps to fertilize your lawn.
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Divide your yard up into a series of rectangles
and multiply the length times the width to
determine the square footage of each area. Add
them all together to get the total.
Load the measured fertilizer from
your container to the spreader.
Load the other half of the fertilizer
to the spreader.
Check the fertilizer tables in this
handbook to determine the
proper amount to apply.
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Over the grass, open the holes in
the spreader to the lowest setting.
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Apply the second half of the
fertilizer in an East/West direction.
Carefully measure half the amount
to be applied by using a container
and scale.
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Apply the fertilizer to the area in a
North/South direction.
Be sure to sweep up any spilled
fertilizer and put it back in the
package.
TABLE 1 B.
Recommended application rates for turfgrass fertilizers to Florida lawns: 15-30% slow-release nitrogen.
In the table below, match the size of your lawn to the percentage of nitrogen (N) in your fertilizer to find the amount of fertilizer you
need to apply. If you have a bahiagrass lawn, apply this amount of fertilizer about four times a year no matter where you live in the
state. For centipedegrass, apply about twice a year in North Florida and two to four times a year in Central and South Florida. For
St. Augustinegrass or zoysiagrass, apply about four to six times a year in North and Central Florida and six to eight times a year in
South Florida. UF /IFAS recommends soil testing for phosphorus content before any P fertilizer is applied.
6%N 10%N 12%N 15%N 16%N 23% N 27% N
1,000 ft2 8.25 Ibs 51bs 4.25 Ibs 3.25 Ibs 31bs 2.25 Ibs 21bs
1,100ft2 9.251bs 5.51bs 4.75 Ibs 3.51bs 3.51bs 2.51bs 21bs
1,200 ft2 10lbs 61bs 5.25 Ibs 41bs 3.75 Ibs 2.51bs 2.25 Ibs
1,300 ft2 11 Ibs 6.51bs 5.751bs 4.25 Ibs 41bs 2.75 Ibs 2.51bs
1 ,400 ft2 11.751bs 7 Ibs 6.25 Ibs 4.51bs 4.51bs 31bs 2.51bs
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A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
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6%N 10%N 12%N 15%N 16%N 23% N 27%N
1,500 ft2 12.51bs 7.51bs 6.75 Ibs 51bs 4.75 Ibs 3.25 Ibs 2.75 Ibs
2,000 ft2 16.75 Ibs 10lbs 8.51bs 6.51bs 61bs 4.51bs 41bs
2,500 ft2 20.75 Ibs 12.51bs 10.51bs 8.25 Ibs 7.75 Ibs 5.51bs 4.75 Ibs
3,000 ft2 251bs 151bs 12.75 Ibs 9.75 Ibs 91bs 6.51bs 61bs
3,500 ft2 291bs 17.51bs 151bs 11.5 Ibs 10.75 Ibs 7.75 Ibs 6.75 Ibs
4,000 ft2 331bs 20lbs 171bs 131bs 121bs 91bs 81bs
4,500 ft2 371bs 22.5 Ibs 191bs 14.751bs 13.75 Ibs 10lbs 8.75 Ibs
5,000 ft2 41 Ibs 25 Ibs 21.25 Ibs 16.51bs 15.51bs 11 Ibs 9.51bs
'These recommendations assume use of a properly calibrated spreader. See www.yourfloridalawn.ifas.ufl.edu for instructions on calibrating your
spreader.
When should I apply fertilizer to a lawn?
The warmer parts of Florida have year-round growing sea-
sons, while other areas have dormant lawns for parts of the
year. Apply fertilizer when grass is actively growing, not
when it is dormant. As a general rule of thumb, in North
Florida (north of Ocala) and the panhandle, your last
fertilizer application should be made in late September.
Turfgrasses do not use fertilizer when they are dormant.
In Central Florida, your last application can be made in
early October. You can tell when grass is dormant because
growth will slow significantly or the grass will turn
brown. Dormancy is caused by changes in both weather
and length of day, so even in South Florida grass can go
II THE flORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
Apply fertilizer only when grass is growing actively.
dormant. Consult your county UF/IFAS Extension office
with questions about the best times to fertilize your lawn,
and always comply with local fertilizer ordinances.
How do I water-in fertilizer?
Most fertilizers need to be watered-in to move fertilizer
just below the soil surface to grass roots. This process
requires only about 1/4 inch of irrigation water. To find
out how long it takes your sprinkler system to deliver this
much water, read "Calibrating Irrigation Systems" on page
19. Don't overwater, or you'll increase the potential to
move fertilizer past the root zone and into groundwater.
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KEEP MOISTURE IN THE SOIL, HELP CONTROL WEEDS,
AND REDUCE STORMWATER RUNOFF
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A mulch layer around trees, shrubs, and planted beds
provides many benefits. In areas that are difficult to mow,
irrigate, or otherwise maintain, use mulch to replace turf
or groundcovers. Also consider placing mulch in shady
areas where many plants don't grow well.
.
THE DIRT ON MULCH
Mulch is a wonderful addition to any landscape, because it:
. Buffers soil temperature. Mulch keeps soils and plant
roots warmer in winter and cooler in summer.
. Helps maintain soil moisture. Mulch slows evapora-
tion and reduces the water needs of plants.
Properly applied mulch encourages moisture retention and accents the
landscape.
. Inhibits weed germination and growth.
. Adds beauty. Mulch gives planting beds a neat and
uniform appearance, and its color and texture can
complement plantings.
· Helps reduce soil erosion.
. Can improve soil. As they decompose, organic materi-
als like wood chips, pine needles, leaves, and grass
clippings make soil more fertile and improve soil aera-
tion, structure, and drainage.
. Can protect plants. Mulch can help prevent certain
plant diseases, and when placed around shrubs and
trees (at least 12 inches from the trunk), it reduces the
likelihood of damage from trimmers and mowers.
CHOOSING A MULCH
There are many factors to consider when selecting mulch
for your landscape. Depending on your priorities, you
could make a decision based on any or all of them:
· Cost
· Color
· Origins of the mulch
· Durability
· Nutrient content
. Texture/Appearance
All of the different kinds of mulch available in Florida
have benefits and drawbacks. Cypress, melaleuca, and
pine bark are the longest lasting types of mulch but don't
offer plants many nutrients when they break down. Soil
pH may be reduced by pine bark and pine straw, which
would be excellent for acid-loving plants like azaleas, but
not plants that require high-pH soil. Here's an overview of
the most popular mulches:
Pine bark is a byproduct of the forest industry. It comes in
ground and nugget forms, and has a rich brown color.
Pine straw (pine needles) comes from pine plantations,
which produce paper and wood products, and is sold in
bales. Unlike some mulches, pine needles are not likely to
wash away, because they knit together.
Fallen leaves (including grass clippings) can be raked up
for free in your landscape. This type of mulch is high in
nutrients, but decomposes quickly.
Melaleuca mulch is made from the invasive exotic trees.
The product is cured at a high temperature to kill seeds.
Mixed hardwood mulch is produced from scrap lumber,
recycled pallets, or tree stems that are too small to be used
for paper or wood production.
Eucalyptus mulch typically comes from plantations in
South and Central Florida where the trees are grown
specifically for mulch. They grow quickly, so this mulch is
considered renewable.
Utility mulch is sold or given away for free by many utili-
ty companies. This mulch comes from trimming trees and
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
other plants that get in the way of power lines, but it can
come with weed seeds.
Cypress niul~h is composed of both wood and bark.
Cypress trees, which grow in Florida's forested wetlands,
are often harvested for lumber used in fencing, flooring,
furniture and other wood products. Cypress mulch is often
made from the waste wood generated in the manufacture
of these products, but it may also be produced from
whole trees cut from wetlands. The Florida-Friendly
Landscaping™ Program does not recommend the use of
cypress mulch, as its origins may be difficult to determine.
Gravel or pebbles can be used as mulch, but they won't
contribute to the soil's nutrient and organic content or
water-holding capacity. If you choose to use these prod-
ucts, make sure to first install a woven ground cloth to
keep them from sinking in sandy soils. These mulches last
a long time, but will need to be cleared of debris to look
their best.
GUIDELINES FOR USING MULCH
Follow these, tips when using mulch in your landscape:
· Maintain a 2- to 3-inch layer around established trees,
shrubs, and bedding plants. Coarse materials, such as
pine nuggets, may be applied to a depth of 4 inches,
but don't allow mulch to accumulate to a greater
depth. Adding more mulch can harm plants because
1:1 THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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mulch intercepts rain and irrigation meant for plants'
root systems.
. Avoid "volcano mulching." When mulch is piled
against the base of a tree, it holds moisture, encouraging
rot in the trunk. Mulch piled against the trunks of
young trees may also create habitat for rodents that
chew the tender bark and can ultimately kill the trees.
· Mulch to the drip line or beyond. The mulched area
around the tree should be at least 8 feet in diameter.
Remember that in a forest environment, a tree's entire
root system (which usually extends well beyond the
drip line) would be naturally mulched.
· Rake old mulch. Some mulches can become matted,
preventing water and air from seeping through. Rake it
to benefit plantings and refresh the mulch's appearance.
HOW MUCH MULCH?
Purchasing mulch by the bag is convenient, but it can be
costly. Buying mulch in bulk quantities can save you
money. Bulk mulch is sold by the cubic yard; each cubic
yard contains 27 cubic feet. Remember to apply 3 to 4
inches of mulch for a layer that will be 2 to 3 inches when
settled.
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#5: Attract Wildlife
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BRING YOUR YARD TO LIFE BY PROVIDING WATER, FOOD, AND SHELTER
FOR BIRDS, BUTTERFLIES, AND OTHER CREATURES
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Remember to plant for pollinators.
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Florida is a state renowned for its diverse and unique
ecosystems. But rapid development, particularly in coastal
areas, is continuing to destroy wildlife habitat. As our com-
munities expand, we rightly lament the loss of native birds
and other animals. But did you know there is much you
can do at home to create a safe haven for these displaced
Floridians?
,
By following the simple tips in this chapter, your Florida-
Friendly lawn and garden can become a sanctuary for
wildlife, as well as part of a migratory passage between one
wild space and another. Animals need to move from place to
place, just like people. They have trouble traveling in heavily
urban and suburban landscapes, but you can help them by
joining your Florida-Friendly yard with others in the neigh-
borhood to create a "natural corridor"-a safe, traversable
route between woodlands, wetlands, or other wild areas.
,
Use a variety of plants in your yard's design to attract
many different species of animals, from birds and butter-
flies to snakes and squirrels. Your home landscape will
become a refuge for critters in need of shade, rest, food,
and water. In return, your landscape will become a living,
lovely part of Florida. Talk with your neighbors and
community organizations about Florida-Friendly
Landscaping™, and encourage others to make their
yards as hospitable as yours.
TIPS
Try a few of these ideas to lure wildlife to your yard:
. Provide food. Select plants with seeds, fruit, foliage, or
flowers that butterflies, birds, and other wildlife like to
eat. Berries, fleshy fruits, nuts, and acorns are all treats
for many animals.
Firebush supplies food for birds and butterflies.
. Supply water. Any water you provide will attract
wildlife. You could have running water in the form of a
natural feature, such as a pond, creek, or other body of
fresh water, but a fountain or birdbath will also beckon
wildlife. Empty and clean your birdbath every few days.
Do not clean it with soap or bleach-just physically
scrub all surfaces with a brush or scouring-type sponge.
Change the water regularly to prevent mosquito breed-
ing and bacterial contamination.
. Leave snags. Leave snags, which are the trunks of dead
trees, in place if they do not create a hazard. Many birds
use snags for perching, nesting, and feeding.
Snags have great appeal for various woodpeckers.
. Manage pets. If you permit pets to harass or kill
wildlife, you will only hinder any efforts you make
toward attracting wildlife. This is especially true for
cats allowed outdoors, so keep your cats inside.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
· Reduce insecticide use. Each time you apply an insecti-
cide to your landscape, you reduce insect populations,
which form an important food source for birds. Some
chemicals can also poison birds and other animals that
feed on affected insects.
· Reduce the amount of mowed lawn area. Unmowed
areas can contain more plant species than mowed areas,
providing more potential food sources and habitat for
wildlife. Reduce the mowed area around your house,
especially in low-traffic areas, such as corners of the
yard.
· Increase vertical layering. Plant a variety of plants in
different sizes and heights to provide more cover and
feeding opportunities for diverse species of wildlife.
,OB ".
layers of vegetation entice wildlife and add visual interest.
CREATURE COMFORTS
To attract specific types of animals or insects to your yard, think
about their needs.
BATS
A small bat house in your yard can provide a roost for bats.
An individual bat can eat thousands of insects in a night, and
A bat house provides a roost for these nocturnal pollinators.
- II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
bats also serve as important pollinators for many flowering
plants, including fruit trees. Bat houses aren't complex struc-
tures, and designs are easy to find in books and on the
Internet. Your bat house should be tall, shallow, and hung at
least twelve to fifteen feet above the ground on the south or
southeast side of a tree, pole, or building. The site should be
fairly open and easy for bats to see.
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BIRDS
Design planted areas that include a tree canopy, smaller under-
story trees and shrubs, grasses, and flowers. Allow grasses and
flowers to go to seed on occasion-this is a real draw for
birds.
BUTTERFLIES
A combination of both larval (caterpillar) and nectar plants
will attract a variety of butterflies to your yard. Nectar plants
provide food for adult butterflies, while larval plants are food
sources for the caterpillar stage. If you want to attract butter-
flies to your yard, expect a certain level of damage to certain
plants from hungry caterpillars. See the plant list online at
http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu for help with choosing species that
attract butterflies.
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CREATE AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSE AGAINST PESTS
WHILE MINIMIZING YOUR IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT
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Pest management in the home landscape once relied heavi-
ly on the use of chemicals. Today that is changing because
of concerns for human health and environmental safety.
Scientists now recommend using Integrated Pest Manage-
ment (IPM), a strategy that helps gardeners prevent and
manage pest problems with as few chemicals as possible.
IPM emphasizes smart planning, proper maintenance, and
natural or low-toxicity controls in ensuring plants stay
healthy and resist insect and disease infestation.
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AVOIDING PEST PROBLEMS
The way that you plant and maintain your yard either dis-
courages pests or throws out the welcome mat for them.
Follow these tips to prevent pests:
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. Think before you plant. Plants in locations not suited
to them may be stressed and thus more susceptible to
pests.
. Start early. IPM begins at planting time, with the selec-
tion of plants that are pest-free and pest-resistant.
. Keep your plants healthy. Using appropriate amounts
of water and fertilizer is the best defense against pests.
,
. Conduct regular scouting. Keep an eye on your yard's
plants to detect pest problems early, before significant
damage occurs.
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. Go easy on water and fertilizer. Too much of either
can cause excessive growth, making plants vulnerable
to some insects and diseases. Encourage healthy growth
by applying fertilizer and water only when they're
needed and in moderate amounts.
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. Mow to the proper height and prune selectively.
Mowing grass too short and severely pruning trees and
shrubs weakens them, potentially inviting problems.
f
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. Encourage beneficial insects. Learn to recognize the
insects in your garden that help manage pests and let
them continue their good work! The pictures below are
beneficial insects.
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Assassin bug.
ladybug.
Big-eyed bug.
Green lacewing.
Parasitic fly.
Parasitic wasp.
DETECTING PEST PROBLEMS
Inspecting plants frequently helps detect pest problems
early. You can give plants the once-over anytime you water
by hand, mow, or do other outdoor chores. Set aside a
time twice or more each week to walk through your yard
and look at plants. Some small insects complete their life
cycles in one week, so a weekly wander through the yard
may not be frequent enough.
Common plant pests in Florida include aphids, mealy-
bugs, scales, whiteflies, thrips, plant-feeding mites,
caterpillars, and chinch bugs. Often you will spot evi-
dence of a pest's activity before you see the insect itself.
If you see chewed or deformed leaves, sooty mold, many
ants scurrying up and down plant stems, or discolored
"trails" on leaves, you are likely to find a pest lurking
somewhere.
Detecting small insects and mites can be difficult. One
method that works well is to nick the leaves of small
branches against a sheet of white paper. Use a ten-power
(lOX) magnifying glass to search for movement or
A Florida-Friendly Landscoping™ Publication II
evidence o,~;pe~ts.C_hinch bugs can be collected from lawn
thatch using a shop vacuum.
Look on the branches and on both the upper- and under-
sides of leaves for pests that attach to the plant, such as
scales and whitefly nymphs. Sooty mold on leaves is a tell-
tale clue to an infestation by what are known as piercing-
sucking insects (aphids are one example). These pests
pierce the plant with sharp mouthparts and suck the sap.
Some piercing-sucking insects secrete a sugary substance
called honeydew, on which the black-colored sooty mold
fungus grows. Sooty mold doesn't injure a plant directly,
but it does block sunlight from leaves, reducing photosyn-
thesis. Ants also signal the potential presence of pests,
since they feed on honeydew and often protect the insects
that produce it.
If you see plant damage but few pests, beneficial insects
may already be working on your behalf. These may
include lady beetles (commonly called ladybugs) and their
larvae, lacewings and their larvae, assassin bugs, spiders,
parasitic wasps, and parasitic flies (syrphid or hoverfly lar-
vae and tachinid flies).
Removing by hand and tolerating minor insect damage are responsible
ways to manoge pests.
Tolerate some insect damage and leaf disease on plants.
No one can maintain an insect- and disease-free landscape,
and a little damage will not hurt your plants. Remember,
in order to have the "good guys," such as ladybugs, there
must be some "bad guys," or pests, for them to feed on. If
a pest problem persists, take a sample of the damaged
plant and pest to your county Extension office for identifi-
cation and suggestions on how to use IPM techniques.
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
lOB
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TREATING PEST PROBLEMS
IPM is the best strategy for dealing with pest management,
and it relies on the use of chemicals only as a last resort.
Check out these IPM techniques.
· Remove affected leaves or plant parts. When pests are
heavily concentrated on a plant, you can often reduce
or eliminate the problem by Simply removing the affect-
ed leaves or stems.
. Pick insects off by hand. This easy step can often
defeat infestations of large, slow-moving pests. Dispose
of any captured insects so they do not return to feed
again. Try one of these methods:
· Drop pests into soapy water or isopropyl alcohol.
· Place them in the freezer overnight (in a baggy or
plastic container).
· Crush them and put them in your household trash.
· Look for beneficials. If you see a pest outbreak, deter-
mine if it's being managed by natural enemies already
present. Many beneficial insects prey on pests, and
harming them will just help the pests.
· Don't treat by default. Plants with aesthetic damage
don't necessarily need to be treated. Consider the
amount of damage you're willing to accept. Remember
that there will always be insects in any healthy land-
scape, and don't worry about minor damage.
· Start with low-impact techniques. Always try the
safest alternatives first, such as handpicking insects or
pruning affected parts of a plant. If pesticide use does
become necessary, choose products that are the least
harmful to people, pets, and wildlife. These products
include insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, botanicals
(e.g., pyrethrum, neem, and rotenone), microbials (e.g.,
spinosad, abamectin, and Bacillus thuringiensis
'Kurstaki'), and entomopathogenic nematodes (small
worms that kill insects).
· Avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides. They're not
selective, meaning they also kill beneficials. Instead,
choose targeted products, which are designed to harm
only specific pests. For example, products that contain
an extract of the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis
'Kurstaki' are used to manage caterpillars without
affecting other organisms.
· Spot-treat only. Use pesticides to treat only the affected
areas of a plant or lawn. Never use blanket applications
to treat problems.
· Read and follow all label instructions. Be careful and
remember that the label is the law!
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. Apply pesticides during the cooler part of the day.
Heat combined with soaps, horticultural oils, and other
pesticides can injure plants.
Use products only on recommended plants. Always
read the label to find out which plants a product can
be applied on and which plants are sensitive to the
product. If you're unsure about applying a product to a
plant, test it on a small area of the plant first. Check for
leaf burn in the tested area after one to two days.
Phytotoxicity, or chemical injury, often looks like a
burn on the edge of leaves.
For more information about specific yard pests, diagnos-
ing pest problems, and controlling pests, visit
http://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu.
COMMON LANDSCAPE PESTS
AND THEIR MANAGEMENT
Certain pests are considered "key," in that they cause the
vast majority of landscape problems. Here is a list of ten
common causes of lawn and garden damage.
1. APHIDS
Winged or wingless pear-shaped bodies may be green, yel-
low, black, red, or multi-colored. Typically found on new
growth. Damaged leaves appear yellow, twisted, or distort-
ed; ants (which nurture aphids) or sooty mold may also be
present.
Green peach aphids.
Natural Enemies
Lady beetle (ladybug) adults and larvae, lacewing larvae,
syrphid fly larvae, parasitic wasps.
Other Controls
Prune infested plant parts or forcefully spray them with
water to dislodge the insects. Apply insecticidal soaps or
horticultural oils.
2. CATERPILLARS
These are the larvae of butterflies and moths. They chew on
foliage, creating skeletonized, notched, or ragged leaves.
Watch for greenish fecal pellets on leaves or below plants.
Caterpillar.
Natural Enemies
Wasps, predatory stink bugs, big-eyed bugs, birds, lizards.
Other Controls
Remove by hand (use pliers to remove stinging caterpil-
lars), apply Bacillus thuringiensis 'Kurstaki' (most effective
when caterpillars are small).
Note: Most caterpillars only feed on specific host plants.
Remember that if you want butterflies you will need to
tolerate caterpillar feeding activity.
3. CHINCH BUGS
Chinch bugs only feed on St. Augustinegrass, often in
stressed areas in full sun or near pavement. Adults are
liS-inch long, black with white patches on wings. Young
nymphs are smaller, reddish, and have a white stripe
across their backs. Injured turf yellows and dies.
Chinch bug.
Natural Enemies
Big-eyed bugs, earwigs, and a species of parasitic wasp.
Other Controls
Fertilze correctly. Maintain St. Augustinegrass at height
of 3 inches in sun and 4 inches in shade. Spot-treat
infestations with insecticides labeled for chinch bugs.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication.
4. MEALYBUGS
White, soft-bodied insects 1/16- to liS-inch long. Bodies
and egg masses covered by powdery white wax. Attack
leaves, twigs, and roots. Sooty mold or ants may also be
present.
Mealybug.
Natural Enemies
Lady beetles, lacewing larvae.
Other Controls
Spray with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. If that fails,
apply a systemic insecticide (i.e., imidacloprid) to the root
system. Soil systemics may take several weeks to work.
5. MOLE CRICKETS
Velvety brown, 1/2 inch long, feed on turfgrass and veg-
etable roots. Flattened front legs adapted for burrowing.
Mole crickets affect all grasses, but prefer bahiagrass and
bermudagrass. Injured turf may be spongy and thinning,
with 3/4 inch, round holes that are signs of tunneling.
Infestation usually occurs in the same area each year. Test
for infestation by flushing area with soapy water 0-2 table-
spoons soap in a gallon of water). Crickets will surface
within 3-5 minutes if present.
Natural Enemies
Parasitic wasp (Lana bicolor), red-eyed fly COrmia deple-
ta) , insect-parasitic nematodes (Steinernema scapterisci),
and birds.
. THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
10.6
Other Controls
For chronic infestation, consider replacing turf with trees,
shrubs, or groundcovers. If necessary, spot-treat infesta-
tions in Mayor June with insecticides labeled for mole
cricket control.
6. PLANT-FEEDING MITES
Tiny (1/32-inch) red, yellow, or green with oval bodies.
Some spin loose webs on foliage. Mites reproduce
rapidly in hot weather. Injuries to plants look like light-
colored dots, giving leaves a dull, gray-green, speckled
appearance.
Texas citrus mite.
Natural Enemies
Lady beetles, predatory mites.
Other Controls
Spray undersides of foliage with water, then alternate with
soap and oils if necessary.
7. SCALES
Vary in size, shape, and color. Soft scales and armored
scales are the most common. Soft scales produce honey-
dew (sugary secretion), which promotes sooty mold and
attracts ants. The armored scale body is hidden under a
waxy covering. Mature scales are stationary and feed on
leaves, twigs, stems, and fruit. "Crawlers" (the immature,
mobile stage) are the most vulnerable life stage and, there-
fore, easiest to control.
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Natural EnemIes
lady beetles, parasitic wasps.
Other Controls
Scrape scales off plant tissue. See other controls for mealy-
bugs.
8. SOD WEBWORMS
Gray-green caterpillars with brown spots on each
segment. These lawn-damaging pests chew on grass
blades, causing short, ragged patches in the lawn. They
feed at night and hide by day. A soap flush may verify
their presence.
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Sod webworms.
Natural Enemies
Spiders and numerous other beneficials that live in lawns.
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Control
Apply products containing Bacillus thuringiensis.
9. THRIPS
Tiny (1/32-inch) winged insects that scar leaves, buds, and
flower petals to drink sap from wounds. Injured plant may
be dull gray with curling, distorted leaves or browning
flowers.
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Natural Enemies
Predaceous thrips, predatory mites.
108
Other Controls
Apply horticultural oils and/or insecticidal soaps.
10. WHITEFLIES
Adults look like tiny white moths on plants. They
take flight when leaves are disturbed. Eggs are on leaf
undersides. Nymphs (the stage of whitefly that feeds on
plants) are oval, flat, transparent-to-greenish in color,
and may look like scales. They are stationary and are
located on undersides of leaves. Ants or sooty mold may
be present.
Citrus whitefly.
Natural Enemies
Fungi (most effective in humid weather), parasitic wasps,
lady beetles.
Other Controls
Spray with insecticidal soap. Follow with horticultural
oils, if necessary. Be aware that several species are resistant
to insecticides.
PLANT DISEASES
Many organisms, including viruses, fungi, and bacteria,
can cause diseases in plants. Diseases can be specific
to certain plants, but identifying them can still be
extremely difficult. Often, home gardeners mistake
environmental or maintenance problems for diseases.
For example, Spanish moss, lichens, and ball moss are .,
not parasites that should be killed or removed; they
are merely harmless plants themselves. Another
common misdiagnosis in coastal areas is mistaking
saltwater damage for disease. Irrigating plants with
salty well water can cause yellowing around the edges
of leaves and leaf-drop starting from the bottom part
of the plant's canopy.
When a plant does have a disease, the problem may
be merely cosmetic rather than truly damaging to the
plant. Examples are minor leaf spots or other damage
to select leaves. Such minor aesthetic concerns are no
cause for alarm or treatment. There are serious diseases,
however, that can damage or kill plants they affect.
Examples are mushroom root rot on landscape plants,
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication .
bacterial wilt on vegetables, and take-all root rot on turf.
Such diseases can seriously damage the plant's appearance
or growth.
Because diseases are difficult to identify, do not assume
a disease is in the works just because of a plant's
appearance. Use a magnifying glass to look for insect
pests that may be causing the damage. Also analyze
maintenance practices for causes related to visible
symptoms. If you still suspect a disease, contact your
county Extension office for advice on how to collect
and submit plant samples for disease diagnosis and
recommendations on the least toxic methods of
treatment.
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK' 2009
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Bacterial wilt.
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#7: Recycle
RE-USE YOUR YARD WASTE TO SAVE MONEY
AND ENRICH YOUR SOIL
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Landscape maintenance activities like mowing, pruning,
and raking generate yard waste that you can compost or
mulch, recycling valuable nutrients. It's easy to recycle
yard waste.
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MOWING
Leave clippings on the lawn-they'll decompose, returning
nutrients to the turf. Use a mulching mower blade to cut
grass into smaller pieces, speeding decomposition. You can
also use clippings as mulch or compost.
PRUNING
Pruning is selectively removing parts of a plant to improve
plant health, control growth, or enhance fruiting, flower-
ing, or appearance. Prune shrubs and other small plants
using one of three techniques: thinning, heading back, or
hedging. Follow the steps below, and then shred the
resulting cuttings to add to the compost pile or use as
mulch. You can also toss the cuttings behind a shrub to
decompose.
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Proper pruning enhances plant health.
. Keep it healthy. Remove all dead, diseased, or injured
branches.
f
. Keep it clean. If pruning a diseased plant, dip pruning
shears and saws in alcohol to keep from spreading the
problem.
. Keep it uniform. Remove branches that cross or touch
each other and any that look out of place.
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. Keep it minor. Hire an arborist certified by the
International Society of Arboriculture to prune trees
taller than about 15 feet. Correct pruning makes trees
more resistant to hurricane damage.
CALLING THE PROFESSIONALS
If you are unsure about proper tree pruning techniques, con-
sider hiring an arborist-a specialist in the care of trees-to
prune your trees. look for someone who is certified by the
International Society of Arboriculture. Certification indicates
that the arborist has been trained through continuing educa-
tion administered by the ISA.
To find an ISA-certified arborist in your area, check out the
International Society of Arboriculture Florida Chapter's Web
site, http://f1oridaisa.org, and search by ZIP code.
Pruning trees can be a technical, detailed, and dangerous process.
Learn more about it online at http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.uR.edu.
Hire a certified arborist if
you are unsure about
proper pruning techniques.
BASIC PRUNING STEPS
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
REDUCE YOUR PRUNING LOAD
Keep pruning chores to a minimum:
· Select slow-growing plants
· Place plants far enough from walkways, driveways, or
buildings to allow them to reach maturity without
encountering obstructions that require hauling out the
pruners.
· Forget the clipped, formal/oak. Soft, flowing, natural
lines are attractive and easy to maintain.
RAKING
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COMPOSTING
A common misconception about plant care is that all
plants require fertilizer. Plants do need nutrients, but they
might not need added fertilizer. That is because as organic
matter decomposes, nutrients are released into the soil in
a form that plants can utilize.
A great way to supply some of these key nutrients to plants
while recycling yard waste is by adding compost, which you
can make from yard or kitchen waste. As compost decom-
poses in soil, it releases essential nutrients. Add generous
amounts of com posted material frequently to soil to help
create the perfect medium for sustained plant health.
Adding compost to soil can:
· Improve soil structure, texture, and aeration.
· Increase the water-holding capacity of soil.
· Help loosen compacted soils.
· Promote soil fertility and stimulate root development.
II
THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
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· Create a favorable environment for microorganisms,
earthworms, and insects that are nature's "soil builders."
Composting can be as simple as placing leaves, grass
clippings, and small cuttings behind shrubs or in a
hidden corner of the yard and letting nature take its
course. Homemade or manufactured compost bins allow
you to easily incorporate kitchen waste, such as
vegetable and fruit scraps, eggshells, and coffee grounds.
Numerous types of compost bins are commercially
available, and many are attractive. Gardening magazines,
catalogs, and garden centers are good sources for
composting products. For more information about
composting, visit http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu.
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Place your compost bin in a convenient location.
Follow these tips for successful composting:
· Try using a bin. They're not necessary, but they help
keep piles neat, retain heat and moisture, and prevent
complaints from neighbors. The minimum recommend-
ed size is 1 cubic yard (3 feet square by 3 feet high).
· Decide when you want it. Composting can take as little
as four to six weeks or as long as one to two years,
depending on the size and type of material in the pile
and the amount of attention you give it.
· Add water as you build the pile. Proper moisture is
necessary for microorganisms to decompose the materi-
al. Covering the pile retains moisture and prevents the
decomposing material from getting too soggy when it
rains. You should not be able to squeeze water from the
material produced at the bottom of the pile.
· Combine different materials in the pile, such as grass
clippings and leaves, to achieve the right proportions of
carbon and nitrogen for effective composting.
· Always bury kitchen waste inside the pile to discourage
pests and to prevent odor from rotting fruit and
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ucts in a compost pile.
with a length of pipe or rake handle will also help aer-
ate and mix the material.
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. Turn or stir the pile with a pitchfork or shovel on a
weekly basis for faster composting. Stabbing the pile
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WHAT TO COMPOST
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Compost is both an easy way to reduce the amount of waste you send to the landfill and a cheap way to get nutrients for your garden.
The key is balancing "green," or nitrogen-rich, materials with "brown," or carbon-rich, materials (plus some air and moisture). Here
I are some items you can compost. All of them will decompose faster when chopped up.
GREEN
Grass clippings
Weeds
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Eggshells
plant trimmings
Farm animal manure
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BROWN
Fallen leaves
Twigs and fallen branches
Wood chips and sawdust
Tea bags
Coffee grounds and filters
Paper towels
Pine needles
Dryer lint
Cornstalks and corn cobs
Shredded newspaper and cardboard
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Never compost pet waste or animal fats like meat, grease, and cheese. They can create odor problems and attract pests.
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7 .
#8: Reduce Stormwater Runoff
FILTER RAIN THROUGH YOUR LANDSCAPE
TO PROTECT WATERWAYS AND REPLENISH THE AQUIFER
108
A rainstorm can wash exposed soil, landscape debris, oil,
fertilizers, and pesticides off your landscape-all of which
then become a part of stormwater runoff. Ultimately, every
yard and neighborhood is connected to water resources.
This connection may be immediate and obvious, like in a
waterfront community, or gradual and unnoticed, through
the flow of storm drains, ditches, streams, rivers, and
groundwater. Either way, the decisions you make in your
lawn and garden actually directly influence the health of
Florida's waters.
HOW WATER WORKS
No matter where you are in Florida, chances are there's a
body of water nearby-a river, lake, creek, or canal. These
surface waters are actually connected to Florida's groundwa-
ter supplies through sinkholes, springs, drainage basins,
and other pathways. Groundwater comes from the aquifer,
an underground cave system made of porous limestone
called karst. It is the source of almost all of the water we
use in our daily lives, both in our homes and in our yards.
Because Florida's groundwater is so close to the surface, the
health of our groundwater is directly linked to the health of
our visible water bodies, and the ways we maintain our
landscapes can have a powerful impact on both groundwa-
ter and surface waters. Pollutants can enter water bodies
through stormwater runoff, which is rain that flows off
roads, roofs, gutters, and yards into stormwater drains,
retention ponds, and surface water bodies. As it travels to
the nearest body of water, stormwater runoff can pick up
contaminants from landscapes such as excess fertilizer and
pesticides.
...
The nitrogen and phosphorus found in fertilizers fuel
the excessive growth of algae, which smother natural
vegetation, deplete oxygen, and kill fish. Nitrogen and phos-
phorus can also cause invasive weeds to flourish, changing
Florida's natural plant communities. Common household
pesticides and fertilizers can also run off into our water sup-
ply, potentially damaging aquatic life and harming people.
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A healthy, properly maintained lawn and landscape can
absorb and/or filter stormwater runoff, helping to protect
Florida's waters. Following Florida-Friendly Landscaping™
guidelines will reduce pollution coming from the landscape.
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KEEP IT IN THE GROUND
One of the basic concepts of a Florida-Friendly yard is that
the rain that falls in your yard should soak into your yard.
After all, rainfall is an excellent water source for your land-
scape, and reducing runoff reduces impacts to waterways.
But retaining rainfall long enough for it to percolate
through soil is challenging in neighborhoods built on
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compacted fill soils. Consider these ways to reduce the
amount of rainfall that runs off your yard. Keep in mind
that you may need to get permission from your homeown-
ers' association before adding any of these features.
RAIN GARDENS
Rain gardens are an easy and attractive way to reduce the
amount of stormwater runoff that leaves your landscape.
These shallow areas are planted with grasses and other
plants to filter water before letting it flow naturally into the
ground. Water kept within a landscape this way returns to
the aquifer, helping to replenish Florida's water supplies.
Rain gardens work best when they're placed at the bottom
of downspouts or in places where water tends to puddle.
They're especially good for diverting runoff from paved sur-
faces but can also be placed in turf areas. They can be any
size or shape, and can attract wildlife.
Rain gardens filter starmwater runoff before it soaks into the ground.
The plants you choose for your rain garden should thrive
in wet conditions, but also be drought tolerant for the
times between rains.
DOWNSPOUTS
If your roof has rain
gutters, aim the down-
spouts at a porous sur-
face so water can soak
into soil. If the soil is
compacted, you can
improve drainage by
periodically
aerating it. To prevent
water from pooling
Direct downspouts to
porous areas,
including rain gardens.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication II
next to your home's foundation, extend downspouts further
out into the yard and create a depressed area to collect
storm-water for infiltration. See the "Rain Gardens" section
of this chapter for more information about helping
stormwate'r'dniin into your landscape.
POROUS SURFACES
Whenever possible, use bricks, gravel, turf block, mulch,
pervious (permeable) concrete, or other porous materials
for walkways, driveways, and patios. These materials allow
rainwater to seep into the ground, helping to recharge
~
Consider using mulch or other porous materials for walkways.
groundwater and filter pollutants and reducing the
amount of runoff from your yard. In some cases these
porous materials may even cost less to install than con-
crete or asphalt.
EARTH SHAPING
Swales (small dips in the ground) and berms (raised earthen
areas) located perpendicular to the slope can help capture
or slow runoff that would otherwise rush from your yard,
Swales encourage stormwater to soak into the ground.
giving it time to soak into the ground. In a waterfront
yard, use a berm-and-swale combination, placed above the
high water line and parallel to the shoreline, to reduce
stormwater runoff. Add a maintenance-free zone of native
wetland plants to the swale to make your yard more
waterfront-friendly.
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
Berms also help slow runoff.
Minor alterations to the lay of the land won't require per-
mits or engineers, but any major earthwork should have a
professional touch and will require regulatory review.
Always check with your local Florida Department of
Environmental Protection office and other local govern-
mental agencies before making any changes to shorelines.
RAIN BARRELS & CISTERNS
When it rains in Florida, it often pours. Wouldn't it be great
if you could save some of that rain and use it on a dry day to
water your plants? Rain barrels are a great way to lessen
your impact on our natural resources.
Rain barrels can capture a significant amount of water and
can have a tangible effect on your water bill-especially
when two or more rain barrels are connected together. Best
of all, they're fairly easy to find in stores and to make!
Installing a spigot on a rain barrel makes it easy to fill a
watering can for handwatering plants. A rain barrel can also
be hooked up to seep irrigation systems. Your rain barrel can
(and should) be made mosquito-proof with a tight-fitting lid
and mesh screen, and can be painted or hidden by foliage or
a trellis to make it more attractive.
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Contact your county Extension office to see if they offer
workshops on how to make a rain barrel. The Internet also
has a lot of information about buying or making rain barrels.
Cisterns also catch
rain, but can hold
hundreds or thou-
sands of gallons
and require more
engineering than
rain barrels. Keep in
mind that your
community or
county may require a
permit for cisterns.
Cisterns can be located
above or below ground.
#9: Protect the Waterfront
HELP PRESERVE FLORIDA'S
WATERWAYS, PLANTS, AND WILDLIFE
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Florida is covered with water. The state boasts over 10,000
miles of rivers and streams, about 7,800 lakes, more than
700 freshwater springs, and the second-longest coastline in
the United States. Even if you do not reside on a water-
front, the land you live on is directly connected to a nearby
water body. That's because no matter where you live, sur-
face water that leaves your landscape as runoff (either due
to rain or over-watering), together with any fertilizers and
pesticides in that runoff, will eventually drain into a water
body. The contributing drainage area is called a watershed.
[
All watersheds are ultimately connected to each other and
to the underground aquifer that supplies most of Florida's
drinking water. So what you do in your yard has further-
reaching consequences than you might imagine. If you live
on the waterfront, the information in this chapter can help
you create a landscape that is beautiful, functional, and
environmentally sound. But you should consider the water-
front wherever you live.
MAINTAINING YOUR WATERFRONT PROPERTY
Waterfront property owners have firsthand knowledge of
the special value that lakes, ponds, rivers, streams, and
lagoons contribute to Florida's quality of life. Florida-
Friendly waterfront living also involves unique challenges
and responsibilities, some of which are outlined here.
SHORELINE VEGETATION
The land along the water's edge is called the riparian zone
and is often a wetland. Some cities and counties require
homeowners to establish a buffer zone to protect this area.
A 1 Q-foot-wide maintenance-free zone protects a water body from fertil-
izer and pesticide runoff.
If there is no buffer zone along your waterfront, add
Florida-Friendly, low-maintenance plantings to help filter
out pesticide and fertilizer runoff from adjacent lawns and
108
landscaped areas. Shoreline vegetation attracts native
wildlife and reduces erosion. It can also help beautify your
property, dissipate noise from passing boats and other
watercraft, and protect your privacy.
For your freshwater shoreline, select native aquatic plants
such as softstem bullrush, giant bullrush, common arrow-
head, pickerelweed, and maidencane. Remove invasive
exotic species like water hyacinth, purple loosestrife,
hydrilla, and water chestnut.
SEAWALLS AND RIP RAP
While shoreline vegetation has benefits, many waterfront
homes have man-made structures bordering the water
instead of a riparian zone with plants. These structures can
also help minimize shoreline erosion. They include seawalls
(sea-facing walls on a steeply sloped shoreline exposed to
high wind and waves), rip rap (loose, large stones), and
gabions (rectangular metal baskets filled with rock).
Seawalls can help minimize shoreline erosion but may couse other problems.
But these structures can cause other problems. Seawalls,
for example, can cause erosion on adjoining properties.
Consider inquiring into your city and county ordinances
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication II
to determine whether removal of these structures is an
option. When suc\[structures are necessary, look for ways
to encoura'ife native.vegetation in and along them, especial-
ly rip rap arid gabions.
YOUR MAINTENANCE-FREE ZONE
Whether you live on a natural or man-made water body, it's
important to designate a "maintenance-free zone" of at
least 10 feet between your landscape and the riparian zone.
This area helps to protect the water from runoff. Don't
mow, fertilize, or apply pesticides in the maintenance-free
zone. Select plants that will do well without fertilization or
irrigation after establishment. If your landscape already fea-
tures a buffer zone that's larger than 10 feet, you don't need
to create an additional maintenance-free zone.
OTHER MAINTENANCE CONSIDERATIONS
Don't let grass clippings get washed into the water body;
their high nutrient content can cause pollution. Also, pick
up all pet wastes deposited in your landscape. Pet wastes
contain not only lots of nutrients, but also many harmful
bacteria.
CLEARING AND CONSTRUCTION
Waterfront property is often protected by local or state reg-
ulations. A permit may be required for activities as diverse
108 .~
as removing vegetation; extending a fence; building any
structure; or developing walking, cycling, or vehicular
paths. Before building anything on or clearing anything
from your property, make sure you contact the Department
of Environmental Protection or your local city or county
offices or departments related to land development, build-
ing, and planning.
WETLANDS
SPRINGS
Florida has the largest concentration of freshwater springs in the world. Floridians and visitors enjoy the recreational opportuni-
ties afforded by many springs, including diving, snorkeling, tubing, and canoeing. Springs also serve as important habitats for
many fragile plant and wildlife species, and are considered "windows into the aquifer," because the water they pump out comes
from the underground source of most of Florida's drinking water. But like other water bodies, Florida springs are threatened by
population growth, urban sprawl, groundwater withdrawals, and the use of fertilizers, pesticides, and other potential pollutants.
Excess nutrients cause algae and vegitation blooms in Florida springs.
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
Unpolluted springs offer wildlife habitat and recreational opportunity.
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Keeping stormwater onsite allows it to soak into the ground and recharge aquifers.
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STORMWATER PONDS AND CANALS
Many Floridians live near man-made water bodies called
stormwater ponds and canals. These structures are created
to prevent flooding, manage stormwater, and improve
water quality in urbanized areas. Stormwater ponds and
canals are just as important to protect as our natural water
bodies because all of Florida's waterways are connected,
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Stormwater management ponds can be beautiful and educational
amenities.
and anything that enters a man-made water body could
eventually enter our natural water system.
Stormwater ponds and canals can be more than function-
al. With a little help from you, they can serve as a home
for birds, fish, plants, and frogs and become a neighbor-
hood amenity. Work with your neighborhood association
or your neighbors to create an area that not only
improves the' environment, but also contributes to your
quality of life. Just make sure you talk to your water man-
agement district before making any modifications,
because you'll probably need to get a permit change.
Consider these strategies to enhance stormwater ponds
and canals:
. Plant flood-tolerant species that are known to help
reduce contaminants in water.
· Plant a wide variety of plants to increase biodiversity and
attract a wider range of wildlife and insects.
. Add landscaping to make it look like a natural wetland.
. Build boardwalks and trails so neighbors can enjoy
plants and wildlife.
· Add varied water depths to an existing pond to create
diverse habitats.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ publication.
WATER AT THE NEIGHBORHOOD LEVel
10 B t
Whether you want to improve water quality in your neighborhood or just make the waterways in your area more attractive, if
you're interested in doing more with waterfronts in your community, ask your neighborhood association about some of these
things.
· Are Florida-Friendly landscaping ™ practices being used in neighborhood common areas?
· Have neighborhood canals, stormwater ponds, or other artificial water bodies been enhanced with aquatic plants? Are the
plants appropriate for the site?
· Are swales and berms being used to help clean and filter runoff before it reaches water bodies?
· Are there dry basins in our neighborhood? If so, how are they being maintained? Can Florida-Friendly landscaping TM prac-
tices be implemented?
· Can stormwater ponds be improved to provide wildlife habitat and recreational opportunities?
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II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
There are many reasons for Florida homeowners to convert
an existing landscape to a Florida-Friendly Landscape. A
Florida-Friendly Landscape is ecologically sound and cost
effective. But it's often impractical to make the changeover
immediately. Converting your yard to a Florida-Friendly
Landscape can be done most effectively in about three
years and seven steps.
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THE STEP-BY-STEP PROCESS
First, develop a conceptual master plan on paper. Before
going any further, if you are under the jurisdiction of a
homeowner's association that has landscaping standards,
present this plan to them. Florida law forbids prohibitions
on Florida-Friendly Landscaping, not regulating its form
and appearance to maintain property values and neighbor-
hood standards. Then complete your master plan and have
it formally approved, if necessary.
Second, remove a portion of the sod to plant trees. Trees
should be planted first because they require more time to
reach a size that will provide shade and mulch (leaf litter)
for other plants. Third, install any patios, walkways, or
decks (hardscapes) and any underground irrigation supply
lines. Heavy equipment and materials used in the construc-
tion of hardscapes should be used before planting to avoid
crushing the plants. The final steps in the conversion are
removing the rest of the sod in small sections and installing
microirrigation, if needed, and the plants and mulch.
THE FLORIDA-FRIENDLY MASTER PLAN
Before converting to a Florida-Friendly Landscape, create a
Florida-Friendly Master Landscape Plan. This is a complete
plan for your yard that includes all elements in precise
locations and takes into account the nine Florida-Friendly
Landscaping™ principles.
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To create the Master Plan, conduct a site inventory and
analysis to determine the opportunities and constraints of
your yard. Pay attention to soil type, existing vegetation,
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shade patterns, drainage patterns, views, and utility loca-
tions. Homeowners should also consider their needs and
wants and any requirements of their homeowners associa-
tion, if applicable.
Draw the Master Plan to scale, including property bound-
aries from a certified survey, the location of the house and
any existing hardscape, and the location of any trees or
plants that will remain on site. Complete the Master Plan
by adding all proposed plants, hardscapes, and specified
construction materials.
Design principles to consider in the Master Plan include:
. Organization: Create outdoor "rooms" by using path-
ways, hardscapes, and plants to divide and organize
spaces. Use turf or other groundcovers to buffer mulched
areas from down-slope impervious surfaces.
. Proportion: Keep the size of the plants proportional to
the house and yard.
. Repetition: Repeat plant materials for a unified and
cohesive look, with just enough variety for interest.
. Variety: Make the yard interesting by having variation in
plant sizes (especially heights), color, texture, and shape.
. Composition: Group and arrange plants in overlapping
masses based on the size, form, color, and growing
requirements.
· Emphasis: Use dramatically different plants as focal
points to attract attention.
See the UF/IFAS EDIS publications ENH 1110
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP374 and ENH 1112
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP375 for more information.
A Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Publication
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
For references on the information contained in this book
and links to additional resources on each of the nine
Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ principles, including many
articles on the EDIS Web site (Electronic Data Information
Source of UF/IFAS Extension), go to http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu
and follow the link to the FYN Handbook. You can also
visit http://FloridaYards.org for more information on
Florida-Friendly Landscaping or contact your county's
UF/IFAS Extension office and ask for the Florida Yards IS!
Neighborpoods program. See http://directory.ifas.ufl.edu/
Dir/searchdir?pageID=3&pl-05 or check the government
pages in your phone book to find your county's Extension
office.
USEPA GREENSCAPES:
http://www. epa. gov / epawas tel conserve/rrr/ greenscapes/
owners.htm
FDEP Nonpoint Source Management:
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/water/nonpoint/pubs.htm
Florida Department of Agriculture
and Consumer Services, Pest Control:
http://www. flaes. orglaes-en t/index. h tml
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.
I
PHOTO CREDITS FOR FYN HANDBOOK 2009
The Florida-Friendly landscaping ™ Program is indebted to the following individuals and organizations for contributing photos and
graphics to the production of this book.
Michelle Atkinson Jim DeValerio Debbe Hooper Carrie Stevenson
Timothy Broschat Terry DelValle Bill Kern Michael Thomas
Philip Busey Michael Dukes Kenneth langeland laurie Trenholm
lyle Buss Audrey Durr Kathy Malone Bryan Unruh
James Castner Florida Geological Survey H. Means Ondine Wells
Paul Choate Theresa Friday Brian Niemann
Mark Clark Georgia Gelmis Linda Seals
Wilbur Donkers Ed Gilman Joe Sewards
II THE FLORIDA YARDS & NEIGHBORHOODS HANDBOOK. 2009
.
;
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(
1
In 2008, the FYN Homeowner program, FYN Builder & Developer program, and the GI-BMP program were brought together
under the umbrella of the Florida-Friendly landscaping ™ Program. All subprograms of the Florida-Friendly landscaping ™
Program are consistent in their messages and scientific recommendations. FDEP assists with grant funding and environmental
oversight. Academic oversight is through the UF/IFAS Center for landscape Conservation and Ecology (CLCE) in Gainesville.
Additional funding is provided through individual cities, counties, and water management districts.
I
,
. In the early 1990s, the FYN program began in 4 counties in the Sarasota and Tampa Bay areas in response to nutrient inputs
from stormwater runoff being identified by the National Estuary programs as a leading cause of seagrass depletion. The
Sarasota/Manatee area was working with the concept of a low impact Florida Yards program for individual homeowners.
This idea merged with the Hillsborough/Pinellas Tampa Bay Neighborhoods program which was promoting low impact
neighborhoods at about the same time with similar program content. The result was immediately recognized as a regional
success and was quickly expanded with DEP grant support to 14 additional counties in the Indian River lagoon, Northeast
Florida and St. Marks/Wakulla River watersheds. By 1998, it became obvious that oversight and planning for the program
needed to be centralized which led to establishing the statewide FYN office in Gainesville. Expansion and enhancement of
the program has steadily continued with over 48 counties now providing some level of FFl programming activity.
,
. Shortly after the FYN homeowners program was established in southwest Florida, builders and developers were recognized
as an audience that required special emphasis. New development in the planning stages provides an extraordinary opportu-
nity to influence landscaping practices on a large scale. Once again, the Sarasota Bay area took the lead and established a
pilot program to offer FYN assistance to this target group. As with the homeowners program, the builder and developer pro-
gram was a success that expanded to a regional scale in southwest Florida and eventually became a statewide FFl element.
. The Green Industries Best Management Practices manual and the associated program is geared toward training the lawn
care/landscape worker who may use equipment, chemicals, or formulations not readily available to the homeowner. The
program began in 2000 when the Green Industry Alliance approached DEP and IFAS with a request to develop BMPs for
the lawn care industry.
r
I
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L
CREATE A FLORIDA-FRIENDLY LANDSCAPE
Yards and landscapes can be a positive asset to Florida. You can design and maintain your own Florida-
Friendly landscape by following the simple practices in this book. You will/earn the basics of designing a
landscape featuring carefully selected plants suited to Florida's unique climate, natural conditions, and
wildlife.
We offer you cost-saving tips that, if implemented properly, will help you reduce water, fertilizer, and pesti-
cide use. There is also a helpful section for waterfront homeowners addressing the special concerns of shore-
line landscape management.
[
Ii
Whether you are starting from scratch with a new landscape or considering changes to an existing yard, the
Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook offers helpful concepts, .tools, and techniques for creating your
own Florida-Friendly yard. We hope you enjoy the publication and look forward to assisting you in creating
an aesthetically pleasing landscape that will also help to protect Florida's natural resources.
"
~I
...
II
l(t)UNIVERSITY OF
~WJFLORIDA
IFAS EXTENSION
April 21, 2009
Department of
Environmental Protection
2600 Blair Stone Road, M.S. 3570
Tallahassee, Florida 32399-2400
U'NIVERSITJ (hfB
FLORIDA
IFAS EXTENSION
Congratulations on successfully completing the Florida Green Industries Best Management Practices Training Program.
Wc grcatly apprcciatc your participation in and successful completion of this course. We hope that it has helped you
to bettcr understand Florida's nonpoint source pollution problems and the importance of proper design, construction,
irrigation, fertilization, pest control, and maintenance of lawns and landscapes, in order to assure minimal adverse
environmental effects while achieving customer expectations.
Please let me know if there are any errors in the
Attached you will find your numbered certificate and wallet card.
certificate or card, or in the grading of your exam. If we can
be of further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact Dr.
Trenholm at 352/392-1831x374 or via em ail: letr@ufl.edu.
Presented by:
State of Florida
DEPARTMENT OF
ENVIRONMENTALi' P89JECTION
~r:-:-:~~",:j:',:;~..';.:;.,_. ;1. ~,;'{~;ti~~~,;~ti~~~~1
AdatnHen(]rix
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G V 4 7 51-~;;;:1"'><;' <r'"
I
fD/l1-
Certificate tI
GREEN INDUSTRIES BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
TRAINING PROGRAM
1
Adam Hendrix
TruGreen
3523 SW 74th Avenue
Ocala, FL 34474
Agenda Item #: \ 0 ~ Meeting Date:
Certificate of Training
Best Ma~~g~m~,"t ;e,~a.,ctices
~ ,. ",. 1; ," ,8., 1., ",~ t t l t -'I '<~'_,::':}'::'.~~',,;__"":htt:'~~!~'
Fldiida Green in'dustff ,1"f;f;;'~~~I;'f1
; .\,>__'.5;:'::'>' ':....c .;; ". . i\t"_-":f~!f'~:)::':",... ~,'"
',>~,~. ..._ . . ~".,::':'". ,,:<' .;::;1"::..: :;;~\:r~?~';'.~;~<?1~
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:~,.,~ .,;, , ~ ': ,(i!"'~;~~~:>. '/'f;;?:i.'}~'.~f"-'" ';~.-~ :\l,
q ""'Adam;iHendlrix ~,"
:',_ . ',~,,~Y:':_Y'1~:,;,:,,':<' "\ _~
has success\q+~y' met all reqpir~~}1~ntsllec6ssary tob,e fully trained through
the Green Ir~A~strtesBes'titMa,h~g~@:~utPtactic~{Ptdgtam deyeloped by the
. ~~:,.~~:. 'i.:_'f\:';':.l-L,,_ ";.' .1~'''~\</',;r:ii-"~L';i~~,,'l'~'"::':~~.::,,:-::,:- ";:'. i:_._ . ._' 9, J. 9
Flonda Department of Envltoriri1ental ProtectlOn'.,;}~~th theUmverslty of
Flqri~~i IpstitlltepfFood and'Agric~l1:utal Scien~es.
. ',j ~..<:,. .I.
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GV4751-1
Certificate #
GV475 I
Trainee II) #
Dr. L.E. Trenholm
Issuer
'" GV47S1
Trainee ID #
UNIVERSITY OF
FLORIDA
IPAS EXTENSION
'>
Santella
4/1 0/2009
Instructor
Date of Class
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Agenda Item #: Meeting Date : ~ ill ,
Presented by: SA' lJ...._>{ \L I f-<- I g
I I
II I
. -- ... . . .. -. ..-. IIiii ...
LIKE A FLORIDIAN
And fol/ow Pinel/as County law
Summer rains wash fertilizer into our lakes and oceans,
spoiling our water. That's why it's illegal in Pinellas
County to fertilize your lawn during the rainy season,
and why slow-release is required the rest of the year.
JUNE THROUGH SEPTEMBER
. Skip the fertilizer. Pinellas County law bans
the sale or use of lawn or landscape fertilizers
containing nitrogen or phosphorous from June 1
to September 30.
. Pump some iron. Use Florida-friendly yard products
that contain micronutrients to green up your lawn.
. Get better dirt. Add compost, composted cow or
chicken manure, perlite or other soil amendments.
. Pick better plants. Florida-friendly landscaping
needs less fertilizer, water and overall care.
Visit www.BeFloridian.org to learn more.
OCTOBER THROUGH MAY
. Twice is nice. Fertilize just twice a year, in
April and October.
. Watch the weather. Rainstorms don't water
in fertilizer, they wash it away.
. Skip the phosphorus. The Tampa Bay region is
naturally rich in phosphorous. Only use phosphorus-
based fertilizer if a soil test turns up a deficiency.
. Choose slow-release.
Pinellas County law
requires lawn or landscape
fertilizers with nitrogen
to be at least 50% slow-
release (also called timed-
release, controlled release
or slowly available) from
October 1 to May 31 .
---
- SEVEN WAYS -
TO STEP IT UP AND KEEP OUR WATERS FUN
READY TO GO All OUT?
After all, our very way of life - boating, fishing,
relaxing by the water while sipping drinks with little
umbrellas - is at stake.
o
Test your turf. If the problem is a pH
imbalance, pest invasion, or disease, fertilizer
won't help. Call the Pinellas County Extension
Service for help at 727-582-2100.
Perfect 10. Keep fertilizer at least 10 feet away
from any body of water.
Sweep it up. Whisk fertilizer granules off
sidewalks, streets and driveways. Otherwise, it's
algae food.
On your guard. Use a spreader with a deflector
shield or edge guard so you spread fertilizer
only where you need it.
Keep the clippings. Leave grass clippings right
on your lawn. Clippings can supply up to 50% of
the nitrogen your grass needs.
Mow high. Mowing too short stresses the turf
and makes it vulnerable to disease, pests, and
drought. Typical St. Augustine grass should be
mowed at 3.5 to 4 inches.
8
e
o
e
o
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Be Floridian. What
works in New Jersey
or Ohio is silly here in
the semitropics. Learn
how to design your
yard for where you
live now at
www.BeFloridian.org.
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